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AutoRepairTricksNmore
Приєднався 30 кві 2014
This Channel is dedicated to helping people with common Automotive (And Other) Failures and saving them money on repairs by showing that they can be done at home, I enjoy helping people and it drives me nuts to watch people throw away hundreds of dollars for simple repairs that they can do at home with basic tools. I fix all kinds of stuff, not just cars, I enjoy the challenge of the unknown....
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Thanks For Watching!
Stay Tuned
Thanks For Watching!
Lifter Rebuild GM Hydraulic Roller
Tear-Down and Re-Assembly of a Roller Lifter out of a Vortec 4.3 in a 98 Oldsmobile Bravada. Similar to Lifters in many other General Motors Engines.
Переглядів: 37 415
Відео
Chevy S10 / GMC Jimmy 4X4 Switch Repair (Cracked Solder Joints)
Переглядів 121 тис.10 років тому
This is a quick fix on the Electronic 4X4 Transfer Switch in a 99 Chevy S-10 Blazer. This was quicker than driving to the store and buying a new one and it would still be cheaper even if you had to buy the soldering irons. Hopefully your 4X4 problem is simple like this and you can fix it yourself. Good Luck!
NV3500 Rebuild
Переглядів 119 тис.10 років тому
Rebuild of an NV3500 5-Speed Manual Transmission from a 99 Chevy S-10 Blazer. I bought this Blazer for $450 with the transmiison locked up, I found it had a broken 1-2 Shift Fork, I put about $100 into this rebuild, I got parts from Midwest Transmission Center, they were really friendly and they have techs that you can talk to if you're not sure what parts you need. This was my first attempt at...
02 GMC Chevy Fullsize Oil Cooler Line Leak
Переглядів 25 тис.10 років тому
This was just an attempt to use UA-cam, nothing special. The pictures are a set of oil cooler lines that were routed improperly and crossed over top of each other (Last 2 Pics show before/after) which caused rubbing on the pitman arm anytime the steering wheel was cranked right, eventually a hole rubbed through and it had a nice stream spraying out, luckily it was caught before it ran out of oi...
Good evening friend, what oil do you use in this transmission?
One of the better instructionals on this
Should there be a bearing in the input shaft
Thanks for the video, it was helpful. My son's 2001 Pontiac Grand AM 3.4L V6 blew head gasget last week. I bought rebuild kits from RockAuto but chose to reuse the lifters because he is on a budget, and he is enjoying learning about engines.
honestly at 17 i did this with no jig with the tranny on its side, if you just put in all in then slide the main shaft out abt half an inch you can get the reverse idler in with a little wiggling
Dude I’m rebuilding the exact same transmission and I’m having such a bad time trying to get the bell housing to go back on flush with the other case, how did you managed to get it to go back on?
Oof, it's been a long time, but I think the one thing I remember doing was greasing the front needle bearing on the countershaft, so that the needles would stick to the shaft, if they're loose and lean outward, they won't go into the race in the bellhousing side of the case. It was that, guiding the case half on slowly and gently wiggling it until it dropped the rest of the way on.
@@autorepairtricksnmore391 thanks for your response!! I believe I’m getting closer and closer each time I take it apart lol, I’m thinking the countershaft bearing race in the back of my case wasn’t seated all the way, I’m still struggling with like 1/8 of an inch still things bind up when tightening the case up. Hopefully I will get it soon
Palanca altorada
I'm guessing this is what is wrong with my '99. Switches only work intermittently, and if I slap the dash right above the switch it powers up again for a bit, which to my reckoning is indicative that the contact gives it just enough connection to work.
Can you send me the jeg
Looks alot like my Trickflows
Great video!
Is there a way to rebuild this w better synchros & gears for a street 5.3 v8?
Your ideas were great worked for me but I used a rubber band to hold reverse in place
what i did which worked super well was i just zip tied all of the gears in place where they need to be so i could put the casing on the cut the zip ties after everything was locked in.
Everyone should learn to rebuild their NV3500. Easy peasy! Once you pull the bell housing off, drill hole in jig the size of main shaft, slip onto hole and mark the second shaft and drill hole, then mark where the allthread rod goes to hold up the reverse idler. The jig is easy to make. Definitely get a log handled ring puller. Gonna need it. (also a shaft puller, to pull cog wheel) I managed to make one from two peices of angle iron bolted together like scissors. The KEY TIP in assembling the gears back into the housing is NOT USE GREASE TO HOLD BEARINGS in place (didn't work), but instead use small rubber bands to hold bearings in and when the bearing slips into the retaining cups the rubber bands slip off onto the shaft and out of the way. I discovered the rubber bands on the shaft when I took mine apart and when reassembling was when I finally realized why they were there. That first shifter boot you see when removing the bell housing was broke, but the crazy part is that the last trans shop repairing the trans just epoxied the broken part back together, rather than replacing the part for a hundred bucks. It didn't take long for it to break apart, again. I had bought the rebuild kit, but didn't really need it because the old parts/ synchro rings were still in good shape. I rebuilt and replaced all of them, anyway. Now I am very pleased in knowing how to rebuild (where you cannot find anyone to rebuild it for you, because MANUAL trans) and will do it again, knowing that it will be done right (no gluing) and can save myself a bundle of money. I drive a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 and have hauled some heavy loads long distances. The motor is in great shape with a lot of miles, but that trans has been pulled three times, now.
I can’t get the rear case off 😢
Bellhousing comes off first, then remove rear seal, snap ring and rev idler bracket bolts and it should be able to come out. I had to hit mine with a mallet.
Cuál era el problema q te daba el motor y si con esto se a solucionado?
Did you make the rod fixture for the r. idler ?
Perfect video. No bs, just great info.
Wat fluid viscosity is recomend? Thank you. Congratulations
Awesome video and information. Thanks for putting it together. May I ask if you could take dimensional readings on that jig, please, if you still have it?
I got my bearings from Midwest transmission , they send me some bs bearings where it is a super presss fit , mine is not going in easy , I have to use heat , unlike last one I built , this is bs , I will never buy from them again.
helped to confirm where and what line I had leaking. thanks.
only way i was able to get the plungers out was to heat them up with a torch and the plunger eventually came flying out i put them in a stainless tray with half a lid on it so oil and parts don’t fly every where ah ok he does it with torch too cool
How did you build the jig
These transmissions have helical and double helical spur gears.
Does the flat side of the counter shaft bearing go up or down ,one side flat and other side is insets a little bit
That’s what I’m running into right now. Can’t get the countershaft to seat correctly. Did you find out which way the bearings go?
Best video on hydraulic rollers
Seems to me one of the greatest automotive myths [floating around for decades] is hydraulic lifters don't need maintenance. They do -it's just infrequent: somehere between 50k and 70k seems reasonable. At the most basic level, its a cup inside a cup. Combine that with not all that much oil volume going to the top of the motor via pushrod, and you could call them something else: a trap. Anything getting inside is not likely to leave Only a teardown works to remove any crud. The check ball at bottom usually seals well - one short press and relieving backside pressure can make dealing with inner assembly easier in most cases. I keep a plastic case designed for lifters doing this - keeps them in order to match the bore they came out of, and contains any oil. I put about 1cc of 30 wt on/in lifter at reassembly to guarantee surfaces are coated and ready for priming. Keep it all lint free, and should be good to go.
Do you have a video on making this wooden jig?
My son was so excited when he found this video...he now has 4wd👍
What are the the 4 bolt holes on the bottom of the transmission a few inches in front of the cross member for ?
Awesome video man,today i finished my lifters with this vid. Thank you sooo much.Greetings
Super long shot, but we don’t have a reverse synchro ring in the NV3500 we have torn apart. Your video is the only place we can find a visual showing no synchro ring for reverse. Have you had any issues shifting in and out of reverse and/or no why it is not there?
Nice Jig worked out great .
Most helpful video I've seen of this yet. Thank you for sharing this.
My switches needed to be re-soldered and I did that, it helped the lights come back on in the buttons and it was obvious that it needed to be redone, they were so bad that you could see them disconnected from the board. But, it still didn't fix the issues I was having. I checked the ATC (Automatic Transfer Case)(could also be called the TCCM or TREC) fuse under hood and someone put a 30 amp fuse in the 20 amp slot and it was blown. Replaced it with the right one and it worked immediately.
Hi mate great video. I've just picked up a 99 Blazer 130,000ks. I have power to all 3 switches but the 4wd buttons "flash" instead of stay solid. The 2wd top button works fine, but the HI and LOW 4wd buttons keep flashing instead of staying solidly on. Any idea what's going on there? I was thinking maybe a vacuum leak possibly?
It could be a vacuum leak, or it could be the actuator on the transfer case. The fact that the lights flash means that the transfer case control module is probably fine, its looking for the actuator/shift motor on the transfer case to send a signal that it shifted and looking for a signal from a switch on the front differential that tells it that it has engaged. If it doesn't get those it won't continue and will go back to 2WD. First, try putting it in neutral when rolling slowly and see if it will shift, sometimes they won't shift if there's any bind in the driveline. Next, with key on and engine off, try 4HI and listen to hear the shift motor on the transfer case click. If you don't hear anything, then its probably the shift motor, check all of your fuses and look at the wiring first though before replacing it. If it does make a click noise, its probably ok and its a vacuum leak between the engine, the switch on the transfer case and the front differential actuator (located under the battery) What I do with every one of these systems is plug the vacuum line at the engine and lock the front actuator on. Thats the best way to make this system reliable. This makes the front differential engaged all the time, but not the transfer case. No big deal, this is how the Bravada and Astro/Safari vans are setup from the factory, the front differential is engaged all the time and the front driveshaft is rotating, it doesn't make a noticeable difference in fuel economy either, but people think it does, either way, I'd rather have my 4X4 when I need it, if I was worried about saving fuel I wouldn't be driving a 4X4, haha. Anyway, that would be my initial thought process on diagnosing issues with this system. Good luck!
@@autorepairtricksnmore391 Ok mate thanks heaps for your advice much appreciated.
Hey this is probably a long shot since this video was made a long time ago I am curious did you have to put your tail shaft bearing in from the inside of the case while torn apart. Or can you change it from the outside or slash and truck with transfer case removed. if you find this comment your information is greatly appreciated thank you
The tailshaft bearing is installed from inside the case, the transmission will need to be completely taken apart. My bearings were fine at 200,000 miles, are you sure you even need to replace it? On a 4x4, the tail shaft is supported by the transfer case in operation, so it doesn't take much lateral load. I have seen input shaft bearings destroyed by worn pilot bushing in the crank, but never a tailshaft bearing on a 4x4 model.
Great video, saved some money, thank you man.
All mine are guff as nails, motor blew a head gasket
I’m curious what goes on the back of the trans where the output shaft is. How does the driveshaft connect?
This is a 4 Wheel Drive model, so the Transfer Case attaches to the back of the transmission, then the front and rear driveshafts are connected to the Transfer Case. On a 2 Wheel Drive model, the rear of the transmission looks a little different and the rear driveshaft slides directly into the back of the transmission.
@@autorepairtricksnmore391 do you by chance know which transfer cases can bolt on the end? It is a five bolt pattern and most I’m seeing are 6 bolt
@@BigMoneyWaste I'm pretty sure this one was the NP233, it was in a 99 Chevy S10 Blazer. There are a few variations of the NV3500 Transmission though, they were used in some full-size Chevy and Dodge trucks too. It may depend what vehicle your Transmission came out of. I dont know all the fine details about differences between years and models. I do remember that are a handful of differences with shifter location and the shift linkage configuration inside the Transmission. Best advice I can give is figure out what vehicle your transmission came out of, then look up that vehicle and see what the Transfer Case options were for that vehicle.
Hey man. I'm rebuilding the same transmission. Your video has helped me out tremendously. Only guestion is how do I get the bearing off the front shaft will sit flush on the jig?
If you're talking about the bearing on the input shaft, there's a snap ring you remove and the bearing should just slide off. Mine stayed in the case, you can see me putting the snap ring back on the input shaft right at the very end of the video.
Yes sir, thank you for your time my man.
Great explanation... one question when you put back the lifter in the block what is the orientation of the oil feed hole?. thank you!
This was a 1998 4.3 V6 from a chevy blazer, the feed hole orientation doesn't matter in this engine, the recessed area that the feed hole is in, is a continuous passageway that surrounds the entire lifter and also lubes the bore that the lifter rides in. On any engine I've ever had apart, if there was a reason to orient something a certain way, it would be marked or have some feature that makes it only able to install one way. These things are assembled in factories by any average Joe off the street that has no idea how an engine even works, they're failsafed from assembly errors pretty well at the factory, so anyone with the guts or knowledge to take one apart, can probably get it back together without too much issue. Lol. Good job catching that fine detail and thinking about it, pretty sharp! Good luck with your repair!
Thank you for the soon answer, I am working with a Venture 3.4 liters 1999 that I had to clean them up and your video was very helpful with it. but when I installed them back a got that question in mind because once I put them back I saw that they could only get two positions that were not in front of the oil passage... I will double check it may be I did not see things correctly.. I appreciate your support and feed back. Definitely I will follow up your channel. Thank you again!
Hi great video, I’m just about to overhaul mine, I can see from the comments it’s been asked a lot of times before but would you have the dimensions of the assembly bench and also a part number for the reverse idler tool. Thanks for this video it will be a great deal of help to me 👍
Thank you you just saved me some money
Last time I had the intake manifold off my 4.3L. I just put the red little straw thingamajig on a can of carb cleaner. Inserted it into the oiling hole on the side of the lifter and blasted out the crud until it came out clear. After I got it all put back together,it did run a little better.
If you have already gone through the trouble of pulling the manifold, you can tear down + clean your lifters on the bench.
@10:58 where the magic happens that I came here to see and didn't. How do you replace the bearing at the front of the input shaft? Could that be done without taking the bellhousing off. It looks like it should be possible, but nobody ever seems to change that bearing?
No, you have to remove the front case half/bellhousing, that bearing needs to be knocked out from the inside. However, you dont need to make the fixture and tear it completely down, you can set the rear of the transmission in a bucket or something so the bellhousing is facing up and just pull it straight up and off. Just make sure you remove the detent plug and spring and that bolt on top of the bellhousing.
So my dad removes his bolt on that reverse idler bracket and it spun so the hole is no longer exposed. Is there a way to turn that with out separating the transmission?