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Just hit the CC and select your language if they have yours as an option, it’s pretty accurate for the most part.

The p0201 code should be related to the injector. If you replaced it already you could try checking the electrical wires and connector. I also swapped injectors from cylinder 1 and 3 and the code did switch, that seems to be the easiest way to verify a bad injector.

Correct, driver side front. the cylinder layout diagram is at 2:05

Thank you

Sorry for the late response You can try moving or swapping injectors #1 and 3, and see if the code changes There is also a resistance check you can do on the injector. However, mine tested fine (12.5 ohms) but was still faulty

Yea it wasn’t easy. I actually did all this work for nothing, turns out the problem was with the TCM under the hood 😂

@@importgarage1715 Do you know if the new TCM needed to be reprogrammed to work with the car or was it plug and play?

@@Rando3 Not sure, it was replaced by a mechanic. They did say to drive it for a while before taking it to inspection after it was replaced

Wow very nice!

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I didn't have any that got stuck in the cylinder or fuel rail, one of them did fall off the injector as I was removing it. Once I removed the spark plug coils that I needed out, I took a cut piece of rag and gently stuffed it into the hole where the plug is, this way nothing will fall inside of there. I also used some compressed air to clean any loose debris before I started.

Before I get that far I have a 2007 Grand Cherokee with the 3.7 engine the problem I'm having is intermittent hard start or extended crank no codes I replaced the fuel pump in April ..a few weeks ago I was sitting idle for about 1/2 hour the jeep got hot so I went in the store quick it wouldn't start when I came back out it cooled off more started extended crank it was low on fuel at the time.. do you think my filter is clogged or my injectors or bad coils I have replaced plug's thermostat cam and crankshaft position sensors ignition switch so far. I don't want to keep playing guessing games it gets expensive lol do you have any idea what it might be?

Could be a fuel pressure bleed down between starts Before you actually crank it over, try leaving the key in the on position for a few seconds to prime the fuel before it actually cranks. Also, theres something called a residual check valve in the fuel tank. Apparently it keeps pressure in the system when the car is turned off, for the next start, not sure if you changed that also with the pump Can maybe also try some fuel injector cleaner mixed in with the gas.

@importgarage I've been having the same issue and it's not bleed out in my case it has something to do with the initial over heating like something electrical got fried I've change plugs coils intake air sensor and I got the injectors today I need help only codes I get are cyl#2 cly# 3 to rich and random mutipal misfire

@@importgarage1715 thanks for the video super helpful I'll let you know if the injectors work

I never found the problem, once I got the side cover off everything looked fine, I also replaced some parts which didn't help. I wasn't comfortable going any further with it

@@importgarage1715 Are you still trying to fix it or have you moved on?

I gave it a shot for a friend to try and save them some money. Was really hoping it was a shift solenoid or something else under the side cover. It was not easy without a lift, just getting the side cover off and out was a real hassle. I think I have a few more videos I haven't uploaded yet.

Hopefully you have a service manual . It explains what could cause it to not shift to 4th. First thing would be to scan it for a trans code.

It was the TCM under the hood

Ty!

Haha yes, Porsche or Ferrari! I do mostly electrical for others.