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Alan's Home Workshop
Australia
Приєднався 29 кві 2020
A channel dedicated to amateurs who tackle all sorts of projects in their home workshops.
Leak tester for compressed air outlets
This video covers my process for imagining and building a tool for identifying leaking compressed air outlets. It is as much about step-wise refinement of a prototype design as describing a workable solution. It's a good illustration of what I enjoy most in the workshop - creative problem solving. Hope you find it interesting and I'm looking forward to your comments :)
Переглядів: 546
Відео
Centering work on the rotary table
Переглядів 52521 день тому
Short video showing the use of jack screws to center work held in a chuck on a rotary table.
Building the Lynx15 - Part 11
Переглядів 451Місяць тому
More progress - incremental rather than inspirational - but still moving towards the finishing line. I have my first go at bending thin wall brass tube for the exhaust pipe and third try is the charm. I rework the valve spring retainers to suit the correct valve springs and complete the engine internals. The only things outstanding now are the ignition and fuel systems. Thanks to Greg @gregsmac...
Building the Lynx15 - Part 10
Переглядів 441Місяць тому
More progress - with more mistakes and recoveries. Really looking like an engine now as all major machining is finished and only accessories eg ignition and carbie are left to do. Thanks to Greg @gregsmachineshop for his advice and support for my project Website - gregsmachineshop.com/ Link to Building the Lynx 15 playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLQ5iH19hiQ0qAyApQVhqf0bhwk9C_kYN4.html
Building the Lynx15 - Part 9
Переглядів 696Місяць тому
I resume my Lynx15 journey by facing up to the challenge of machining my first properly profiled camshaft with inlet and exhaust lobes. It took two goes, but I did manage to make a good camshaft and learnt a lot in the process. NB: There is a sound glitch for a few seconds starting at 13:45 - my apologies. Links to camshaft machining resources: * CamCalc modelenginenews.org/design/CamTable.html...
Tool setter for the milling table
Переглядів 7012 місяці тому
I have found it useful to have a way of holding milling adapters in an inverted orientation out of the machine. For example when changing inserts or mounting a slitting saw on an arbor. This is just easier to do when the adapter can be securely held upside down. In this video, I make such a mounting as an attachment to the milling table.
Machining scrap hydraulic piston rod to make a forcing screw
Переглядів 1,1 тис.2 місяці тому
High strength steels such as 4140 are expensive to buy as new material. However hydraulic piston rods are made from this sort of steel and I have found that scrapped rods can be scrounged at little to no cost. This video shows how I made a forcing screw from a 25mm ɸ and a 60mmɸ rod.
Building the Lynx 15 - Part 8
Переглядів 3803 місяці тому
Lots of milling, boring and drilling here - with more mistakes :( Fortunately I was able to recover from them and only needed to make the cambox once :) Thanks to Greg @gregsmachineshop for his advice and support for my project Website - gregsmachineshop.com/ Link to Building the Lynx 15 playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLQ5iH19hiQ0qAyApQVhqf0bhwk9C_kYN4.html
Building the Lynx15 - Part 7
Переглядів 1 тис.3 місяці тому
Time to start on the valve train, and the lathe gets a workout with a number of very small pieces. In this episode I make the valves, valve guides, valve retainers and tappets. Thanks to Greg @gregsmachineshop for his advice and support for my project Website - gregsmachineshop.com/ Link to Building the Lynx 15 playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLQ5iH19hiQ0qAyApQVhqf0bhwk9C_kYN4.html
Building the Lynx15 - Part 6
Переглядів 6564 місяці тому
In this video I start work on the cylinder head. There is a lot of machining and many interesting setups so I hope you find it interesting. Please feel free to comment on how you would have done the machining - I'm always open to suggestions for a better way to do things. Thanks to Greg @gregsmachineshop for his advice and support for my project Website - gregsmachineshop.com/ Link to Building ...
Building the Lynx 15 - Part 5
Переглядів 5494 місяці тому
Back into it after a short caravan break. In this video I finish and install the cylinder liner then make the piston with its gudgeon/wrist pin. This completes the moving parts in the bottom end of the engine. Thanks to Greg @gregsmachineshop for his advice and support for my project Website - gregsmachineshop.com/ Link to Building the Lynx 15 playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLQ5iH19hiQ0qAyApQVhqf0bh...
Building the Lynx15 - Part 4
Переглядів 2,4 тис.5 місяців тому
Making another crankshaft (- getting it right this time) and making the connecting rod. There was a lot of work in those 2 pieces and this is a longer video that explains the operations and challenging setups that I used. Thanks to Greg @gregsmachineshop for his advice and support for my project Website - gregsmachineshop.com/ Link to Building the Lynx 15 playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLQ5iH19hiQ0q...
#Shorts Morse Taper Wedges
Переглядів 5586 місяців тому
My rotary table has an MT3 socket with no extraction method for tool shanks except beating them from the backside of the table. In this short video I show how I made a pair of extractor wedges similar to the wedges used for releasing a drill chuck from a Jacobs taper.
Building the Lynx15 - Part 3
Переглядів 5106 місяців тому
I tackled the crankshaft in this episode and it was going really well - until disaster struck. Thanks to Greg @gregsmachineshop for his advice and support for my project Website - gregsmachineshop.com/ Link to Building the Lynx 15 playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLQ5iH19hiQ0qAyApQVhqf0bhwk9C_kYN4.html
Webster Engine - Exhaust Back Pressure
Переглядів 3968 місяців тому
Webster Engine - Exhaust Back Pressure
Centering a 3 jaw chuck on a back plate - short video
Переглядів 7359 місяців тому
Centering a 3 jaw chuck on a back plate - short video
Nice work! In the past I've pressed ball bearings (with plenty lube) through tubing I've bent and it will generally take the kinks out
Good design/result in the end Alan. I have an App controlled plug-in timer in the power feed to the Compressor that turns off at a set time each afternoon/night regardless of the Power State but despite that, the hissing throughout the day is annoying, so such testing is a great idea.
I just turn the compressed of ! Kit from up north
My problem is forgetting to turn the compressor off - and having my ear chewed because it fired up in the middle of the night...
@@alanshomeworkshop I wired in a red bulb in a fixture near the ceiling of my shop that comes on when power is on to compressor for this very same reason.
@@darrellbauer2464 That's a good idea Darrell - simple but effective. I'd use a timer switch if I could find one for a 15A load but I can easily install a signal lamp. Thanks for your comment.
This are insert for a slitting saw not tangential ... There are not made go cut on the side flank
Noma i think still made this kind of geometry , Is an old type like mid 90's made originaly by Seco
Interesting - do you mean something like this: www.tradeindia.com/products/insert-slitting-saw-cutter-c2866519.html - looks like such a cutter design would be used for slotting rather than slitting. Thanks for your comment.
I'm working on a rebuild of one of these at the moment. They are a bit of a nightmare in many ways, mainly the x-axis flat linear bearings and dovetail roller shaft assembly that auto compensates for wear. It's the strangest thing I've come accross in a long time. I really appreciate your videos, they have been incredibly helpful. Mine had been apart and been put back together rather poorly. The bearings for the auto adjusting dovetail rollers were put in different configurations on each side. My machine used 6202 deep groove ball bearings and 7202 angular contact ball bearings on the dovetail roller shafts. I noticed you placed the sheilded one side 6202 bearing on the bottom and the 7202 on top. Using a sheilded besring on the botton initially made the most sense. It's how I assembled it the first time. I put an indicator on the dovetail roller shaft and it could move axially with very little pressure. From what I can tell the sheiled 6202 bearing should be placed in the top bearing position. There's no way to preload the upper bearing so the 7202 angular contact bearing can seperate and allow the shaft to move. The lower bearing is always pre-loaded because of the captured spring and cir-clip on the dovetail roller shaft. The bottom position is suited for the 7202 angular contact bearing as it must be preloaded to work. I have it reassembled with the 6202vin the top position and 7202 in the correct orientation installed in the lower position. The shaft shows almost no axial movement now and the 7202 angular contact ball bearing has the preload it needs to work properly. I just thought I'd mention in case you were getting rough x-axis travel. You could find the table lifting if you had overhung table loads towards back of machine. My machine may not even have the original bearing types so it may bot be an issue for you. I ended up going with new bearings. The top heavy steel washer didn't keep out all the grinding dust and the bearings were in very rough shape. I used 6202-2rs on the top with standard rubber seals and 7202 non-contact rubber seals on the bottom. I saw no reason not to use sealed bearings. The non contact lowers spin verly freely while the standard rubber seals on the 6202 offer minimal drag when spun by hand. The table moves very freely when its all assembled. It didn't make sense to go back to the original open bearing design given their condition. Thank you for posting the videos, you saved me a lot of time and frustration. Hopefully mine will work as well as yours when done!
Thanks for taking the time to share your understanding of the dovetail capstan bearings Jeff. Its about 4 years now since I restored this machine and my memory of the project has faded badly. The table does still run smoothly but if this should change I'll refit the bearings as per your commentary. Cheers, Alan
Nice! Going to do this!
Thanks Tom. I used M8 x 1.0 jack screws but I think an even smaller thread pitch would be better eg M6 x 0.75 or 1/4" 32 UNEF . This would give an additional 6 or 7 tpi and provide finer adjustment. Cheers.
A good idea. I only use 4-jaw chucks on my rotary table.
Well this technique is perhaps a bit of a halfway house to a 4 jaw chuck... Thanks for watching.
Nice explanation and many thanks for taking the time to shoot, edit, and upload this content for our edification. Thank you sir
Thanks for watching and your appreciation of the video. Cheers.
Absolutely brilliant video
Thanks Rick (?). I just watched the video again and relived the pleasure of seeing the engine come to life. As my first engine, the build was very interesting and watching it run so well was very rewarding. Cheers.
good result Alan,, is that your idea?? if so thats good cheers
Thanks Graedon. l may not be the first person to ever do this, but it was my own idea and I hadn't seen it done by anyone else - just wish I had thought of it sooner :) Cheers.
Great idea, nice video Alan.
Thank you.
And what many don't realise is the runout is different at almost every different clamping diameter.... this isn't set and forget.
- I should have mentioned that :) Cheers.
Very interesting. Nice video sir. Thanks
Thank you
From Ekatherineburg Russia this week Kit from up north
That's an extra 12,000km "Up North" !
That works very well Alan
Thanks Matty. Its a simple idea but seems to work ok. Hope you are still having fun in your workshop. Cheers.
Early Rolls-Royce cars used spur gear differentials...Back when they made the 10 hp 2 cylinder cars, etc.
Very nice! I can find very little about spur gear differentials. why is barely used, anyone know? i would say it has some advantages compared to a usual ("pin-gear"?) differntial. For example could be potentially flatter.
Thanks Jan. I think several factors reduce the attractiveness of the design including cost and packaging efficiency. The spur gear arrangement has more moving parts and is less compact.
hi Alan, I always use a guide when bending pipes, if a tight bend ,I will pack the pipe with kiln dried sand as well. Will be nice to see it running. not far off now!
Thanks Paul. I'll be giving sand a try next time for sure.
@@alanshomeworkshop fill up the pipe & seal the ends so none will escape, bend, cut the ends off and tap out sand. anneal 1st obviously😁
You should have way more subscribers!
Thanks Carl - please feel free to scare some up :) My wife suggested a cute pet might help...
Hi. Is that your own design of that engine? Looks awesome.
This engine was designed by Greg at Greg's Machine Shop and is based on an original design by Malcolm Stride. The original design is referenced in Stride's book "Miniature Internal Combustion Engines". You can find a viewable digital version of that book here: archive.org/details/miniatureinterna0000stri/mode/2up - its free to view but you'll need to create an account with the Internet Archive. Thanks for watching.
That engine looks great. Your work is on another level. Very nice work sir
Thank you
Very nice work Alan, it looks just smashing. Great to see the motor come together, cheers and thanks!
Thank you
It's looking really good. Getting close now.
Thank you.
I also use the sand works every time. Very nice work on the engine
Thank you.
For bending brass or copper I anneal pipe make tight fit nylon plugs for each end pack pipe with salt or fine dry sand to stop pipe collapsing, bend freehand or use mandrel 👍
I'll give that a try - thanks for the suggestion.
Allan do you have 3 phases power in your work shop ! Watch from Saint Petersburg Russia Kit from up north
Yes - had 3 phase connected about 8 years ago. Could you please explain what you mean by "Watch from Saint Petersburg Russia" ? Cheers.
@@alanshomeworkshopAllan I am in Saint Petersburg for a wedding and holiday don't believe 90% of what you see in the media , they want to sell newspapers
Thank you very much for taking the time to make this video
The most important accessory for that machine is a wheel guard. These wheels are extremely dangerous.
Thanks for watching Mel and I take your comment seriously. When renovating the machine I wanted to make a wheel guard but couldn't come up with a good design. Your post has prompted me to revisit this and try harder. Cheers.
That engine is coming along. Your work is on a good standard. Nice work sir
Thank you.
Glad you came out! I appreciate the creators work and diligence and it is nice to put a face with a name. Keep them coming.
Thanks Lynn.
Looks great! Clever workarounds.
Thanks Carl. I seem to get plenty of practice at devising rectification methods :) Cheers, Alan,
Thankyou for nominating the inserts you used
Thanks Jeff. The Cermit inserts leave a great finish on hard steel but they are much more fragile than plain carbide inserts and don't like interrupted cuts. Cheers.
Really enjoyed the build Allan. Appreciate your detailed descriptions and work around Cheers Jeff
Thanks for the kind words Jeff. Cheers.
Very well done
Thank you
that thing looks really good Alan, reminds me of a supercharger from a vintage Bently or similar ,,,, cheers mate!!
Thanks Graedon
THere's definitely a light at the end of the tunnel ! Thoroughly enjoying your build.
Thanks Mark. As a retiree and hobby machinist, I have the opportunity to spend time out in my workshop doing whatever takes my fancy. To me, the appeal of the Lynx15 project is a broad range of machining challenges that are interesting to tackle. It doesn't really matter whether the engine ever runs as I have no use in mind for it. In making the videos, I have two goals. The first is to help others by sharing my experiences - including the mistakes and recoveries. The second goal is more selfish - creating a record of good memories that I can relive when I'm no longer able to operate the machines. Positive feedback such as yours is much appreciated. Cheers, Alan.
Nice work again Alan
Thanks for for watching and your support. Cheers.
It's looking really good Alan.
Thanks Paul - I'm starting to believe that I will actually get this finished :) Cheers.
@@alanshomeworkshop there's an old saying " how do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time"
look really great Alan well done
Thank you.
Looking good! I cut Alu at 600 RPM with my slitting saw in order to leave a good finish.
Thank you - I'll keep that tip in mind. Cheers.
I watched this another day and I just tested it on my mini 3inch rotary head, it works! I have been tapping the chuck with hammer for hours and it won’t true up until I saw this method. Many thanks!
I found it to be much faster than tapping, and it would have been even easier with a better jack. I'm thinking about making one designed for the job. Thanks for watching.
Outstanding Effort Alan, getting very close now ! I'll pop over soon to see it in the flesh !
Thanks Fergus :)
Nice. Haven't seen that done before.
Thanks Carl. As noted, this was my first "proper" camshaft (Webster just had a single lobe made with two rounded ends and flat flanks). When I asked Greg how he would make it, he referred to a method that requires a cam machining jig. I expect that is a much faster way to machine camshafts - after you have invested in the jig. However, building a single cylinder engine with enclosed crankshaft and overhead camshaft was just an interesting challenge for me and I may not make any more engines. So while milling several hundred thin slices was a bit tedious, I think it was the best option for me. Cheers.
You have given me many ideas for my bandsaw. Thank you.
Some of the improvements were pretty easy to do James, so go for it! Thanks for watching.
well done Alan. I've never made a cam, I'm going to bookmark this just in case😁
Thanks Paul. The maths involved in calculating the tangential machining path are not trivial and I am very grateful to the person who published their solution :) Cheers.
Nice work Alan, I wish I had a dollar for every time I stressed over a part, only to find the solution was a lot simpler than I had imagined. Always nice to solve a dilemma and hope for a simple task to come around again, cheers!
Thank you. Like most things - easy when you are shown how to do it :) Cheers.
Pat yourself on the back for that..well done
Thank you.
Well done Alan.
Thanks Henry.
Great video Alan, I like your calm, analytical approach to problems. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you Stephen.
Great job Alan.
It was a bit of a character test, but ultimately quite rewarding :) Cheers.