Відео

Here is a link to the guy who makes the device. anterojussila.wixsite.com/lcdbc They also appear to sell it over at 3SX Performance, www.3sx.com/3s-touchscreen-obd1-obd2-scan-tool 3sx appears to mark up the price from what is listed on the other site. For what its worth I bought directly from the maker, but this was also over 3 years ago. Hope this helps.

WOW, I dont know what to say other than THANK YOU. That makes me feel so great. I was hoping that seeing someone else be able to successfully rebuild one of these things would take away a little of the stigma that comes along with them. Congratulations on completing your project, and enjoy!

Good luck with your project, and be sure to check out some of my other videos on pulling the engine. Its not a simple task, and putting it back in is even more of a pain. But the sense of accomplishment you get from doing it yourself is unbelievable. If I was buying the engine stand again today, I would spend the extra $100 for the one with the built in rotisserie. Having the engine flip on you if you are a one man show is scary. Good luck to you and thanks for subscribing!

@@AGeeksGarage After watching your video and see how the 6G72 acts on the stand shown, I'm definitely springing for the rotisserie style engine stand. I'm a one man shop, can't risk it.

Good luck to you! Rebuilding the engine was probably my favorite part of this entire project. It is so rewarding to hear that engine fire up for the first time after the rebuild!

Thanks for the comment, sucks that they break down so quickly. A Datsun 4x4 is awesome, you dont see too many of those around any more. Thanks for watching.

No problems with this at all. The only complaint is that it "sometimes starts itself", however I believe this was due to accidental bump of the keys as opposed to it truly "self starting".

I bought a different ECU on eBay, also had to replace the IAC valve

@kiweeltyler3586 yeah, removing the CV axels from the transmission was a pain! I ended up using a pry bar that I had in the basement (one for wood working... not the best tool but it did work). This guy here: ua-cam.com/video/nVxDgcTJOHE/v-deo.html used a similar method to what I did. I think maybe I would try using a tie-rod separator if I had to do it again (although I am not sure that this is the best tool for the job either ... ) Good luck on your project. Good luck with your transmission rebuild!

@@AGeeksGarage thank you!

Yep that is exactly what it was. Took a little bit to figure that out, but once I got it pulled back apart I was able to flip it around and get right back to putting it back together. Thanks for watching.

Thank you!

Thanks! You won the award for first post!

So there is a scanner specific to the first gen 3000GT/Stealths. You can buy it here: anterojussila.wixsite.com/lcdbc I have an older version of this and love it. Your other option is to follow the instructions here: www.stealth316.com/2-diagcodes91-93.htm to manually read the codes. I can't speak to the newer cars (94+) since I have not worked with one of them. Hope this helps.

I am sorry I do not, I just checked to see if I could find the documentation, but I believe that I threw out the paperwork after I was done. I will check a few other places, but I am not optimistic that I will find the docs. A search on the internet for the ARP 2000 bolts that come with the connecting rods says ~45ft lbs. ... but I can NOT validate that. Good luck to you.

I did not have that problem, mine is still working great. Was the hood rusted, or the mounting point compromised in some way? I would reach out to 3SX as they have always been extremely responsive and helpful when I contacted them. Sorry to hear you didn't have as good an experience with the struts.

Yeah, I should have known better. But this is how you learn. Thanks for watching.

I placed it right on the mark. I have seen some people put it one tooth back as it makes it easier to get it to line up when you put the belt on. Good luck with your repair.

Thanks that means a lot. I had a lot of fun working on it. There are a few more things to finish up with the exhaust that I am hoping to do this summer. Enjoy your ride, they are great cars!

Weird ... Not sure how they mounted for you and not for me, I wonder if the mounting brackets are different from the Stealth vs the 3000gt.

For $10 I got a replacement line, but I will watch for that next time. Thanks for the comment.

You have no idea how right you are ...

If she is back on the road I will. I am further along in the work than the videos show and am currently trying to figure out how to patch rust holes in the floor pan when they dont make re-pop floor pans for this unique little guy.

@@AGeeksGarage crazy they don't make that stuff, they make it for all the sprites and MGs of all ages. Maybe it's just too new and unique. Sounds like you're back to the whole "side of a washing machine" method, lol

HAHAH so you know how this is called "A GEEKS Garage"... there is a thing called "ODBc" in the tech world, for connecting to databases, and years of saying ODBc, have become muscle memory. Thanks for the correction.

@@AGeeksGarage ahhh - i wondered. ODB is in my daily vocabulary. Good stuff.

Right now in upstate NY it is below fr ezing and everything is iced over... So she won't be leaving the garage for another month or two. I was waiting to do a full driving video once I have the exhaust complete as it is currently very loud to drive. Stay tuned I will be sure to post driving videos once I take it for a longer drive. Thanks for the comment and for watching.

Good question. I was following someone else's instructions on how to remove and put back the engine and that was their suggestion. I do remember part of it was that I did not want to disconnect the power steering pump lines (you will notice it tied to the firewall in some of the video) and so that very much drove the decision to put the belts on after the engine was back in the bay.

Thanks! It was super satisfying to complete the work, and I am glad that making the videos have been helpful to others. Good luck on your build, and please come back and let us know how it went!

I wasn't sure what I would be getting into when I first started buying parts so I figured buying a new one was best. It probably could have been cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner and been fine.

I think it was about $1100, for having the short block cleaned, decked, new freeze plugs, and oil jets, and cylinders honed, heads milled, valves fitted and rings gapped.

Mine is currently having issues of the vehicle stalling within a second or two after starting it up. It does not happen on cold start, only when the engine is already warm, and I have found out that I can relearn the idle by revving gently to 2k rpms, and slowly down to 1k rpms, and letting it go. Then it will go back down to about 5 to 600 sound like its about to stall and then idle again. I am new to the field so does that sound like it could have to do with the TPS starting to go bad, a bad fuse, or something else? I have replaced my vacuum lines so I don't think I have any air leaks right now. I would test it myself like you did in the video but I do not have the tools. Any advice is appreciated, and thanks for the great repair videos you've made, they help a lot!

Unfortunately there was no indicator light light that said "the TPS sensor is bad" although what you are describing does sound similar to what I was seeing. If you have access to a volt-meter there is a way to "read" the diagnostic codes from the car. (if you don't have one you should be able to pick one up fairly cheap at a Home Depot/Lowes or Amazon ... depending on where you live) This page details how to do it: www.stealth316.com/2-diagcodes91-93.htm Its a little difficult to do, but it is manageable. Hope this helps in some way.

@@AGeeksGarage awesome, I will look into that. I did some more looking and saw that it could also be the IAC, and the throttle body may need a service since Im at 63k miles

@@connorarndt1726 yeah, I ended up replacing both the IAC as well as the TPS sensor. The TPS sensor seemed to cause issues when the engine was cold, and the IAC problems showed up once the engine was warmed up. One quick test I remember for the IAC is at idle, try turning the steering wheel from "lock to lock" (all the way left to all the way right), the IAC should respond and up the idle of the engine to compensate for the extra load on the engine. Would love to hear what you end up finding.

@@AGeeksGarage Im not sure if that test will affect it bc the vehicle dies as soon as I start it when its warm. But I will see if it affects the rpm after I relearn it. I have noticed after relearning it, it will still run rough with a slight misfire for a few minutes and then eventually go back to normal.