Відео

Thank you for your concern. This video was not intended as a tutorial, but as a demonstration of what happens when a rapid temperature change occurs with different types of Pryex.

This is a 2 stroke, 4 piston, dual carb engine

is borosilicate much more expensive? why would they use the other chemical?

+ any easier place to get in touch with you ?

@@convoiexceptionnel try @hackaninstant on Instagram

No, but I presume it's similar to the 210, which is much easier since you don't have to cut off the lens body.

@@thewetcoast i open the 300, the trigger seems far away, not as accessible as in the 210...

@@convoiexceptionnel I'll have to get a 300 to assess whether it's possible to use it as a back...

It's a daylight developing drum, similar to the ones used for cibachrome back in the day. Chemicals are poured into one end and poured out the other.

@@thewetcoast What brand is it? Is it self made? I am too curious. ;-)

@@manelmanolo7195 It's unmarked black plastic. It came with a darkroom I bought a year ago. I wish I knew as well because they are very useful.

@@thewetcoast Thank you very much! ¡Saludos!

The circuit is very simple: battery, motor, and cycle switch in series, with another switch in parallel to the cycle switch to start the eject sequence.

@@thewetcoast Thanks

Same ive done the same thing to the mini but the video is so fast and no explanation lol

@@thewetcoast Do you have the final photo that is clear, the video is too fast and not a lot of explaining, I already have it taken apart just need some more clarification

@@TheElysed Go ahead and check out polaroids.theskeltons.org/instaxwide.htm -- it has descriptions and photos of this process, and even describes two methods to do it. There's also a contact form on the website if you have questions.

Open the camera back, put a screwdriver between the middle gap of the shaft to hold it still and unscrew the knob counter clock-wise. I've since designed 3d printed parts for the adapters which you can find on thingiverse.com (search for Polaroid 110A). The knob could also be made with 3d printed parts, but a metal one is much stronger than plastic.

The highest concentration of hydrogen peroxide I could find was 30%, and it didn't consistently bleach the whole negative. It also appeared to damage the emulsion, the result having a rough texture. I also couldn't consistently get it to bleach without a yellowish cast. I'd be interested in where you got 50% H2O2...

This method could work if you placed a piece of glass over the neg/pos sandwich which presses against the pressure plate. I'm currently working on negative reversals, which would give you a positive image during development, though horizontally reversed. The other method I was thinking would work would be a simple contact printer (hinged glass on hard foam) which you could load in a dark bag. The glass would be frosted white to evenly distribute light and the exposure could be calibrated/gauged by taking an exposure reading toward the ground wherever you are. The "shutter" would be simply a dark slide type of cover over the frosted glass.

I used preloaded cartridges with darkbag for a while, until I developed a double sided film holder with dark slides for the Polaroid. They work well, and with 3 film holders I can take 6 pics!

@@thewetcoast ok seems you are two steps ahead of me on the road to Polaroid fun.😁

@@sneeuwwolf1176 If you have a 3D printer, check out www.thingiverse.com/thing:4989989 to print out the rails for the film holders. There's also a back you can modify/print if you don't want to modify the back of your Polaroid.

@@thewetcoast super, thanks. I will have a look.

Yes, with Fuji FP-100C film, you can bleach the negative back and get a working negative which you can scan and reverse. The negative produces a picture that is more sharp than a Polaroid print. I have scanned/reversed these negatives and uploaded them to a print service which reproduces them well.

I had to work on modifying the film mask a couple of times before I got it right--I think I was trying make the borders too small, and the film would curl over the edge and be out of focus. But in hindsight, I like the coversion--it's workable, and I can still use the camera for taking paper negatives, and it can still be modified for other formats such as Instax wide. I'm on instagram @hackaninstant which has more info on the conversion.

Try hackaninstant

I don't know of anyone who can repair these toasters. I understand they are quite delicate and require very specific bimetal parts to operate correctly.

I should post a video on how I made double sided film holders for paper negatives, which allows you to load the camera and shoot paper negatives on the field without a darkroom...

@@thewetcoast please do!

If I remember correctly, there are low and high RPM needle valves. Being a dual carburetor, all adjustments need to be the same on both sides, so start by screwing both sides in, then back off the same amount as a starting point. Get idle working first with the idle needle valves: adj to highest RPM at idle. Then work on high speed while in the water (!) buzzing along at high speed. I think high speed was adjusted to the highest RPM, then backed off a bit so you won't burn up the engine with too lean of a mixture. It's been a while since I've had that engine...

I think you may want to start by cleaning the contacts in the distributor, and making sure the gap is correct.

I need to post another video on how I made film holders for these pack cameras. This way, I can take multiple pictures on the field without resorting to a changing bag or darkroom to change the negative.

@@thewetcoast I hope you do! That would really come in handy.

It is a bit difficult to see in the video. Near the bottom of the gear assembly, you'll see a micro switch (with 2 thin wires connecting to it) with a metal lever that sits on a plastic cam driven by the gears. The cam turns the switch on to keep the motor running until the film is ejected, at which point there's a space in the cam where the metal lever drops down to turn off the switch so the motor stops. I found the length of this space needs to be lengthened around 2-4mm by cutting the cam away (which the metal lever is riding on) at the tailing edge so the switch turns off earlier, otherwise after the motor turns off, momentum keeps things running and the switch rides up on the cam again and turns back on, running another piece of film through. By shortening the cam (or lengthening the space), the motor turns off a split second earlier and has time to stop before the switch lever rides up on the cam again.

@@thewetcoast i see the metal thing, and the "cut" on the wheel ! what should i cut, the little metal bar or sand the plastic for the bar to go down earlier ? so far the instax is ejecting pictures one by one, should i do it anyway ? thank you ! Do you have a website with your different instant camera mods ?

@@thewetcoast i saw what you meant on your other video ! all good. i saw that the 210 is easier than the 100 too...

@@gregoryhervelin849 The 210 is easier overall, but the gearbox needs to be taken apart to lengthen the slot so the microswitch turns off earlier. It doesn't use a cam to turn off the microswitch like the model 100. It's pretty involved, and lengthening the slot is tricky...

@@thewetcoast hello ! I doing often your technique : ) any idea where to find the same explanation for a 210 ? or a 300 ?

Ok, so I got ahold of an Instax wide 210 and took it apart: Much much easier to work with converting it to a back! Here are the differences: 1. The electronic boards are not screwed into the frame (just the LCD is). They are held on with plastic rivets. Just pry the boards off. 2. The lens housing is not part of the frame!! Removing the lens assembly removes everything. There are bits to trim off, but not all the cutting as shown in this video. 3. The micro switch seems to turn off the motor so only one piece of film will go through the rollers when activated. This alleviates the need to lengthen the cam actuating the micro switch. 4. The shutter button is a micro switch and can be used as is (as opposed to a PCB contact requiring a piece of tin foil to complete contact). The wiring is the same as above. Instead of taking 1/2 hour to do the above job. It tool only 10 minutes. I would definitely recommend using a model 210 for a back instead of the model 100.

I used a hacksaw to prepare the Instax camera (ua-cam.com/video/crL5PmfyyzA/v-deo.html) and a dremel to cut the Polaroid. The bottom edges took the longest.

@@thewetcoast sweet. Also it looks like you completely removed the Polaroids battery compartment....how does the electronic shutter work without a battery?

@@DieEisflasche I mentioned in the description that I used the battery power from the Instax batteries by soldering a wire to the correct terminal (2nd terminal for 3 volt, 3rd terminal for 4.5 volt Polariods), then connected that and ground to the leads out of the shutter assembly. One downside is that the bellows switch is also removed so the power to the shutter assembly is always on, but the battery drain seems to be minimal.

West, toward Vancouver Island.

You may be able to do this without soldering if you keep the leads intact from the microswitch, motor, and battery. Strip at least 1/2" of bare wire from all leads and twist tightly together. Cover with hot glue to prevent unraveling. Otherwise, soldering is not difficult. The key is to heat the wire/contact then touch the solder to the wire to melt it on, being sure not to move anything until the solder solidifies. It helps to melt some solder on to the soldering iron to help heat transfer when touching it to the wire/terminal.

@@thewetcoast I'll try with the soldering. I was with the idea of learning that so might be a good opportunity to do so. Thank you for replying!

@@itzelon have you tried it yet? I am looking for donor cameras right now!

@@DieEisflasche I have! I have done some tests. I only need to make the micro switch to eject one photo at time. I manage to do a release switch and turn it off as soon as one photo is ejected. but it's not very relying which have made some ink leaks on the remaining photos. Just got a blurry photo and other 19 look awful or pure white haha. But these video helped a lot. Good luck on yours!

@@itzelon Be sure to trim (shorten) the cam which controls the micro switch. I found I needed to trim it around 2-3mm. This lengthens the time that the microswitch is off, to give the motor enough time to spin down and stop the cam before it activates the microswitch again. Be sure also to clean the rollers after all this is done. And pure white photos indicate light leaks when mounting. Try lining the back with black tape.

It took me a bit to sacrifice the Instax/Polaroid to do this at first, but this is my second one, used for a large format back. If I modify another Polaroid 100, I'll be sure to post detail on what needs to be cut/modified, etc. The "Pola-Instax model 100" works great and I'm glad I did it.

I like how yours is mounted at the center of the film plane. Mine is mounted on the lower right edge, because the motor gets in the way of it being mounted center. I still get an exposure that covers the whole piece of Instax film, but part of the image extends past the viewfinder border on the left side.

@@thewetcoast Making a new lens standard is also surprisingly easy. Shame I lost the CAD model of mine to a hard drive fail.

I couldn't find a serial number on it, but I understand they were made in the 60's. They have a lot of fiberglass in them!

@@thewetcoast thanks for responding. I just took a look at your channel. Nice work. I'm spending my first night in my new cal 28. Never so much as touched a sailboat until 4 hrs ago. I have a lot 2 learn. Can't wait!

It's from a burned out baby gaggia--made of brass. The problem is it mounts with the handle quite far back.