Відео

So this part is exactly the same as the bushing that connects the shifter to the inside cab cable 🤔😎👍🏼 Thanx

I did the same thing, except I put a small split ring in the hole and used a piece of 550 cord

2nd time doing it myself, it goes much better when the pin are in the right way. Great video for a refresher, thanks!

Controller, Resistor, Tomato, Potato.......whatever....

it was ok wish you could have showed more detail

Nice work, good video footage and clear explanation. Did those worn bushing on the arms make a clunking noise similar to what bad sway bar bushings sound like? Any other symptoms that lead you to find this problem? Thanks.

Same for a 1999 f150 4.6?

Thanks so much I just bought the part and decided to tackle it after watching your vid. I was worried about the screen. But that pick thing worked great

Great video man!!! Made it so easy to understand thanks for making it!!!

Thanks, helped me a lot! 👍

There's any gasket between the water pump and the thermostat housing?

I just bought a used 2010 and lifted the back seat to look for the jack but saw the empty cubby there and thought it was missing. So I went on eBay and bought a used one then went to put it in and realized the case was too big. After screwing around I discovered the cubby pulled out and there was my jack, brand new and unused! I wish I had seen this video earlier, everyone talks about the back seat latch but no one mentions the jack. Thank you. Know anyone who needs a F150 jack kit? LOL.

Thank you!! For this video

I've done this before if you do a little snipping where the line is you can take the whole motor right off. Just like you buy it.

Helpful video. Just beware, there is a ground wire that grounds your fuel system right beside the upper motor mount and when you're trying to angle it in there I ripped out all the wires and had to rewire the ground. It's not the ground strap from the engine to the mount bracket. It's underneath the AC pipes bolted into the fender well

Thank you

There should be a fill plug on the side. Fill transmission until fluid runs out the side drain plug. (Same as on a rear axle). As a pro mechanic, I suggest 1 drain and refill. Drive a few days, then another drain and refill. This helps cleanse the old fluid in the torque convertor. And 2 or even 3 fluid flushes is far cheaper than having a $500-1500 used transmission and $1500 labor to swap it out. $2500-3000 or do $150 in flushes???❤

I just replaced my broken driver's glass that my lawnmower took out. Your video was all I needed after one watch. I went outside and replaced mine in short order. Thank you, it was a big help. 2007 Chevy Avalanche

2009 pontiac g6 3.5 I just had my gear shift cable busted in housing today, not as bad to replace as i thought it would be before even seeing this video ! great video though all the same i'm glad someone posted this how to video on this particular car issue

Great video, just got done doing this myself with your help and only a few four letter words

10/4 thank

Good info, you didn't address or apparently apply any kind of lubricant on the canister threads?

Didn't address wheel bearing removal and seal at all!!!!!!

I I did this whole bleeding process and it'll crank but then dies. Everything has been replaced and double checked. I will crank it after I bled it and will still be full of air. Help!

2003. I just pulled the door out through the blower motor hole & threw it away. I can live with inside/outside air mixing.

Forget the other videos. This is the best one. I wish I had seen this video before my project. My condenser fan went out and there are six ways to Sunday for people to do this job - all of them involve a lot more work. This is by far the simplest, most straightforward way of doing this. I could have saved myself money by just replacing the motor rather than the whole shroud/fan/motor assembly. Live and learn. Thanks again for the good work on the video.

I swapped out motors. I took my 94.5 7.3 for a 95 7.3. The 95 is authentic. I am wanting to change to 5 speed. I tried putting the flywheel on , and the screws won't go back in.

Thank you so much! I appreciate you!

What brand was the part or the part number

Do you still work on Jeeps?? I’m desperate for a reply.

Good video I use Copper spray 2 coats to both sides of the head gasket when working on any HEAD GASKET,

Now that it's been a while, how has it been performing? Any reliability issues? How does it do in stop/go traffic? Etc.

Thanks for the vid! I've watched a few other phaser tutorials and those that I've watched say how easy it is to remove the valve covers. I was trying to get mine off, checking multiple times that I got all fasteners off. As you mentioned, it felt like there was a bolt in the middle. Glad you clarified it's the plug tube seals that are the issue.

What size socket is that? Is it a deep socket. Also is it a special socket for the sensor or will any standard socket work.

Great video thanks

Thank you!🍻

I replaced same part and still not cranking :(

I just wrapped mine after replacing the heads. Now the motor is overheating. It has a new radiator, fresh TOYOTA OEM coolant, and everything else the same. I THINK wrapping the crossover pipe is causing overheating, but I am not sure yet. I can find no information from anyone anywhere who has tried wrapping it. 😕

Yes Sir

Thank you! My problem was trying to disconnect the electrical plugs. Appreciated your video for adding that.

You are good! Thx

The rivet gun (and riveting) is the only way to re-secure the new regulator? It seems it would be next to impossible to get bolts, washers and nuts into those four holes.

You need to get a scan tool to diagnose it whats wrong a d what it's doing

That helped me a lot

Finally somebody with a problem like mine! Now I gotta get serious! Thanks for posting.

Straight to the point 💯

I like that vac tool. I have to remove my whole engine hood PITA. my vac tool is too tall otherwise.

good job bro

Tenks bro

Have you tried removing and installing the cross over pipe after the heads are lower manifold are on the block?