Відео

Awesome mod! As long as this equipment is used for the purposes of performing work, and not fulfilling some need for nostalgia, the new LCD screen will excellent upgrade. The additional colors convey information, and the screen itself seems easier to read.

Not to mention additional features such as, transflective LCD, SD card recording, and many other features.

True Voice is the VIKING noise cancellation feature, in both portable and mobiles. 140dB of noise reduction.

Nice job! I love a good old CRT, but this upgrade will be much more useful.

Instead of vinyl tape, I think you could 3d print inserts which would attach to the front four sides of the mounting bracket, and fill in the curved bezel gaps. theres enough space in the middle of the front four sides to figure out how to attach the inserts, so the fact that the corners are flush is not a problem. if you print the inserts the correct orientation, you would get a nearly infinitely smooth curve instead of the stairstep you saw in the eevblog pic.

Yes, you'll do it once, learn from the experience and never, ever do it again. 08:03 Your presentation style reminds me of another great YT engineering channel, _This Old Tony_ . Cheers.

Cool you made it worse. Congrats

LCD downgrade

Super interesting... subbed here.

what a video to watch on the bathroom throne

Nice! Thanks for walking through the modeling process for the bracket. It's always useful to see how people approach those problems.

It's a shame you have to sacrifice the VGA port for this. With Tektronix oscilloscopes, there usually is a (slightly more expensive) way to use the signal from the video board directly and keep the VGA port.

This is heresy

The mod is very well executed, but I feel losing the CRT is a net negative. To each their own.

Nice proof of concept, but it looks kinda cheap, especially as the front bezel isn't covering the sides of the LCD panel. That CRT wasn't worn out, at least from what I could see.

<20 min videos are perfect for stuff like this

Be aware that the screw set is NOT suitable for kids under 6 years due, ref time stamp 17:30

Ether Twist , love it.

poor little CRT, I sure hope it will go to someone who'll treasure it and not into the trash.

I don't like it, now it looks like a 250 bucks oscilloscope from Aliexpress

ich gerne bildröhren.

Get a bit of Melamine faced chipboard fit in place of screen, use two part filler to fill in gaps around screen, remove board and clean up filler. (paint if required) Profit 🤟

If you're lucky the ribbon cable has plain VGA on it as well as +12v, judging by the pin count that's very possible. That would make the entire module a complete drop-in replacement without any weird wiring going through the outside. The fact that they marketed the colour output as an upgraded model makes me wonder why the internal monitor wasn't replaced by a color VGA one since those were pretty common in the 90s.

How about removing some plastic from the inside of the front cover (mostly in the Z-direction I think) to create room for a nice 3D printed bezel.

Most any CRT equipped test gear that has a VGA OUTPUT to it is capable of this conversion. Well worth the time in what you will gain in weight reduction.

this is just crime.

I came into the video wondering why you replace a perfectly working tube for a LCD, until you said that the display has color out of the VGA port. You should check the power consumption difference between the LCD and the CRT.

you could use a ruler as a scale and take a picture and scale it to the ruler

i had to hack mine together with parts from my 8711 but would love to know more on where you got the parts!

When measuring mounting studs, instead of doing inside and outside measurements, measure one bolt and zero the calipers. Then measure outside to outside - that's the center to center distance! You've subtracted 1/2 a bolt width on each side by zeroing on one bolt!

That was such a nice looking CRT 😕

Looking forward to part 2! :) 73s

HEllo , i was thinking some years ago to change display on my HP8566B Spectrum analyzer , it has NO VGA option but there was a KIT avalable to rerplace the tube, not to cheap i remember, but then i found KE5FX GPIB Programs so i can pick up tha graphics and functions via GPIB and USB to Windows there is a program for VNA´s also have you seen that free software.

⚡ High voltages inside.

I did indeed notice you spared no expense on the studio 😉 Happy New year!

thank you for doing this

Whoa, that thing surely gets hot.

I believe if you are triggering on your reference frequency and the signal you are observing is drifting left it is high in frequency (shorter in time) with respect to the trigger and the opposite (longer in time) if drifting right. Otherwise a great video. I had a M100 running for about 25 years before it gave out. I need to pull it off the bench and work on it. Sam W3OHM

I really want one, but I wish that they added Kenwood's NXDN software, because that want I want.

You'd mentioned bluetooth programming at the very end - can you actually program the VP over bluetooth? My dealer is telling me know, I'd love to know as I've got one on order. EDIT: The marketing material sure says so... I guess I'll have to figure it out.

Can this unit do 800mhz NAS?

got mine tuned pretty good i think, do i need to measure Vswr as well? shows .75 DB

My guy, the RFI shielding can pops you cut in were just perfect! Thanks for the effort and added touch, +1 sub!

Yes need to tweak my pre-selector on my Quantar... Seeing this has reminded me!

good info! KD9YTP

Very good! Keep em coming!

I know what your project is...maybe because I believe you have discussed it on another site but still. I've always tuned these things according to the Quantar Site Manual. Seems to work pretty well. Only catch 22 is I use the tracking generator instead of the method using the signal level and frequency generator. I have so many of those probes laying around from all the Quantars.

Tuning the filter off center is a great way to do this. I've done it several times, and while not ideal for insertion loss/s11, it's about balancing the system. Putting a notch on the transmitters for the receiver frequencies is still something to consider, as all solid state amps will make broadband noise. Fuck those Mini-UHF connectors. The QMA is worse for vibration (mobile) use. I just use a standard screwdriver, the tuning slug is at ground. One of the better ways to tune a many pole filter is in the time domain, if your VNA has transform on it. Not needed with this small filter, but with a 8 pole filter, or some of the 900 MHz stuff, it's needed. On the VHF Range 2 (150-174 MHz), I set the center for 146 MHz and as that's 5 poles, it makes it much easier to tune the range 2 down to cover the ham band. It's about the only way to tune it decently.

Thanks for the shout-out

One of the main reasons for the filter before the first RF amp in the receiver is that the first RF amp generally has a 100+ MHz of amplification. The RF amp has a max total output power, and strong signals will "rob" power from the intended signal, and can cause a weak signal to be covered up due to compression of the dynamic range of the RF amp.