Відео

It is great to catch up on the progress - looking great!

Yes, I agree…. anyone that’s not an electrician should buy this tool

Love the lunch over the open fire!

Love how what might be a day for you is like seconds to the viewer. 😂

Looking great❤

love the video! It was a bit hard to hear you while you faced away from the camera while explaining stuff about the shiners and the outside wall, you should consider a lav mic or pulling the non moving camera closer to inbetween what youre working on so we can hear you better. It wasn't indistinguishable or unwatchable by any means. Super interesting video, Hope to see more soon!

Yes, it’s looking cool!

Of coarse excellent again. Love the different pitches. Sweet rolling on the ice and shield paper!

To bad about your truck. Like your cabin style, can you give me the size and dimensions. I going to be starting on my hunting cabin soon . And i been looking for unique style. Thanks Dan

The babies and Hannah were a nice touch! Loved it!! The tiny house is really coming along.

Great job! And such a good size tiny!

Worth watching a second time!

Excellent! Beautiful surroundings!

I have one tip. Go to the hardware store and buy yourself a basket for the exterior vent. It cost me over $600 when birds flew in mine. I told my neighbor I saw them going in and out of her vent. So I guess when she closed up hers, they were looking for another place to live, It’s a very common problem that is relatively inexpensive to prevent.

I still think you should swap the Frig and washer/dryer locations.

Sorry about your vehicle ☹️

Nice work. When will you expect to complete your tiny home?

As to the ridge beam, it looks like you have a double 2x10 spanning 20', but rather than using 20' members, you have joints between spans. So the simplest approximation is that it is only as strong as a single 2x10. [That approximation would be sharp if you happen to have a joint at the point of maximum moment, as then the entire moment would be carried at that section by a single member; if you know that you have two full plys at the point of maximum moment, you could calculate the moment at the joint locations and use it instead of the maximum moment, assuming you can calculate the stitch nailing appropriately.] Your ridge beam tributary width is 7 ft (half the building width) so each beam span is carrying 140 ft^2 of roof, so no live load reduction is permitted. Not sure what your exact dead load is from roof sheathing, metal roof, rafters, insulation, and gypsum board, but 10 psf is a commonly used figure. And the roof live load is 20 psf. So your ridge beam has to carry 210 plf for 20 feet. That means the reactions at each end of each 20' span are 2100 lbs, and your maximum moment at the center of the span is 1/2 * 2100 lbs * 10 ft = 10,500 ft-lbs. [This assumes a simple span; the way you have constructed the beam it looks like you have continuity over the center post, so the maximum moment would be greater than this.] That exceeds the capacity of a single 2x10 of any grade and species. An online calculator I haven't verified suggests a select struct douglas fir larch north 4x12 would suffice, but best to verify that or use some LVLs and the manufacturer's published data. If you added supports to reduce the span to 10', then the reaction would be halved to 1050 lbs, and the maximum moment would be quartered to 2,625 ft-lbs. Now the online calculator says a SS DF-L(N) 2x10 does suffice, although #1 grade would not. Or if you added tension ties between the wall plates, say metal rope every 2' or 4' on center, then your ridge member would no longer have to act as a beam, you'd be back into the conventional rafter situation where the ceiling joists/tension ties keep the wall plates from spreading apart. Although that wouldn't work in the loft area, and even in the unlofted area, it would interfere with the headroom for your stairs. I guess in the lofted area you could also consider that each stud is braced near its top end by the loft floor joists, so they could be modeled as cantilevered beams to resist the outward thrust of the rafters. I've never worked out the details of that approach so I don't know if that is likely to check out or not.

A few framing comments: IRC Table R602.3(1) Framing Schedule lines 15 and 16 specify the nailing pattern between the bottom plate and the floor system; if you are using 3" x 0.131" nails, then it calls for 12" o.c. everywhere, bumped up to 4 @ 16" o.c. at your braced wall panel locations. For larger nail sizes, the required number and frequency is less. IRC R802.7.1.1 limits the notch depth on your birdsmouth cut on your rafters to 1/4 of the depth of the rafter, which it looks like you have exceeded. This is mitigated somewhat as the minimum rafter size for a 7' span (assuming the ground snow load does not exceed the 20 psf roof live load) if you use #2 or better lumber (any of the standard species) is 2x4 rather than 2x6. So if you have a depth of 2-5/8" or more of intact wood remaining a the birdsmouth, perhaps that is arguably OK. I thought perhaps there was a requirement that the heel of the birdsmouth cut has bearing on the wall plate, but I don't actually see that in the IRC, so perhaps I am mistaken. Your ridge beam looks undersized, I will comment on that separately.

You should have an air control layer on the bottom of your house, which could be either the house wrap or the plywood. Whichever one you pick, its joints should be taped.

I wouldn't rely on just nails as supports for the loft floor joist. In today's lumber I don't trust the ends. I would add an additional stud from the bottom of the joist the bottom plate to carry the load.

You should rethink the kitchen layout. It looks very inconvenient. At very least swap the washer dryer and frig locations.

I enjoy your videos, very instructional. This one though I had trouble hearing what you was saying

Just lifting walls over here💪 Super peaceful looking place to build!

Excellent presentation excellently presented!

Sorry to inform you, you will always notice a seam in cove base they are far from invisible

That’s exactly why you wanna keep a wet rag. Do not let it dry people. I’ve been doing this type of work for over 30 yrs. Don’t let it dry get it while it’s wet. You skipped the hardest part if you have outside corner. Which is the hardest part of cove base.

That’s exactly why you wanna keep a wet rag. Do not let it dry people. I’ve been doing this type of work for over 30 yrs. Don’t let it dry get it while it’s wet.

Should also be using a wet clean rag to push that on real good and also if any glue oozes out. And trust me people you definitely want a little of it to ooze out to create that bead.

Should also be using a wet clean rag to push that on real good and also if any glue oozes out. And trust me people you definitely want a little of it to ooze out to create that bead.

You actually do want the glue to ooze out of the top just a little bit. It will create a better bond to the wall. Almost like a bead of caulk. Been doing cove base for years and that’s a fact

I'm NOT a carpenter by any means. This isn't criticism but mearly a question. When you laid the plywood down, I always thought you should stagger the seams. Lay one full sheet, cut the next at 4ft, lay another full sheet. I would also think those 2x6 around outside should be bolted to the steel frame, seems only thing that will be holding the house to the frame will be self tapping screws in the subfloor. Again , not criticism, I have VERY LITTLE skills or knowledge on the matter. I want to build a small cabin someday and I'm trying to learn. Thanks for the videos I'll keep watching

Always exciting to see another one of my favorite videos uploaded!

What a great day! A The Building Investor Tiny House Video!

Yea! Another Tiny House video!

shoulda known you were recording you loading that limber😂

Tip the trailer so water runs off one side. Then level again when you are back to work. Buy some tarps because its going to rain again.

Yellow tape is for gas only. White is for water pipes only. They also make an orange tape that is good for both but much more expensive

Exciting. Very enjoyable to watch.

Nice job. Love watching and want more❤

New subscriber! Such nice work.

So nice!

Floored by the progress! Floored by the dedication to detail and great work!

It's kinda like a puzzle! I still say you make it look easy.

I just started my construction journey and we are ripping out a deck and replacing it with new wood, it rained the other day and the screws are kinda sunken into the wood and most are stripped; what a tip to get the stripped screws out easier and is there a way to remove the wood more efficiently then breaking my back with a crowbar and hammer

Exciting!

Love watching your videos.

Every step counts, eh.

Its so easy to mess up the wire with mc cable.

Thanks for the video 👍🏻