Відео

@@sagatman97 Thanks for the positive comment, I hope you found this video of help. I've been meaning to follow up on it since I did order some clips from Amazon to try and determine if they will work, but I've been busy, hopefully in the next few weeks!

Yes but only 2 channels, so it would be good for adding a bass amp for a subwoofer, wouldn't recommend much more than that.

@@locorudy626 exactly what I’m doing thank u

Should I tap into both rear speakers or can I just tap into one rear and only use one channel on line out

@@Thizz2979 it operates in stereo sound meaning you need a left and a right speaker signal. I'd recommend both for the best results.

@@locorudy626 thank u so much

They were a limited run. They are no longer sold. Best chance is on eBay, or other open market places. But they are extremely rare.

Hello, unfortunately I do not have access to a Camry of that year. If your Camry USB port looks like this and seems to be similar in size, the products I used might work for the Camry as well. Unfortunately the only way to verify is to remove the USB port and look at the connector. I have pictures in this video showing a good look at my connector if it looks the same I'd give the parts I used a try. The products I used are in the video description. Sorry I can not be of more help.

I upgraded the power wires on the alternator to minimize the risk of a current bottleneck, as I was planning to install a large audio system, which is now installed. The system draws about 600 volts lol 0, primarily supplied by additional batteries. To ensure optimal energy flow, I installed a 280A alternator and used 600A-rated cables. Even the stock alternator, which operates at a little over 100A, would benefit from slightly larger cables, such as 0 gauge. Regarding parasitic draw, I haven't noticed any issues. My truck can sit for over a week and still starts up without hesitation, although I haven't measured the draw specifically. Also might not notice as I'm running 2 deep cycle AGM and 1 lithium 64ah so even if I did it would take over a month to drain and the longest I go is a week at most without driving it.

I made them. There are a few people that sell them online but they are pricey $1000+, this retrofitting cost me about 550 using morimoto DS2 projectors. I'll probably be doing a step by step video with my old headlights that I just found in storage.

This would not be recommended for your use scenario. You are trying to get six channels to use so what I would recommend for you would be an active 6 channel line output converter running your highs and mids from channels 1-4 and your subwoofer channel on 5 and 6. If you are looking for the epicenter effect then you would run the epicenter in line after the line output converter and before your subwoofer amplifier. At that point you could go with the regular epicenter and save a little bit of money. If you are trying to cut coat you might be able to do it with a 4 channel output converter and some RCA y splitters splitting channels 3 and 4 one pair to your mids amplifier and another pair to your epicenter then your bass amplifier. You do not want the epicenter enhancing the bass on your high or mid channels... You will blow your speakers, only use it for your subwoofer channels.

I have honestly not tried that, but I'll try it tomorrow and let you know how it goes. You might be able to bypass the Camara requirement with a USB camera but would need to test that.

@locorudy626 did you test ? by the way I do have a usb camera 2 of them

@@uptownsfinest1598 I investigated the Google Meet issue and found that my unit experienced the same "something went wrong, please try again" error. It appears to be related to a Google SafetyNet scan problem. This system checks your device to ensure it meets specific security requirements. If it finds that your device doesn’t meet these requirements, it will cause verification issues, flagging the device as unsafe. The likely cause is that the firmware on Snapdragon units hasn’t been fully optimized by Joying, and the bootloader isn’t locked, contributing to the device being flagged as unsafe. Unfortunately, the only solution is to root the head unit and install a Play Integrity fix, which might trick the scan into recognizing the device as safe. I haven't rooted this unit but the px5 units were easy to root I'd imagine these would be simple enough as well. I'd recommend doing some reading on rooting and flashing Google play integrity fix. I'll probably give it a try when I have some time but I've been busy with work right now.

Toyota is famous for being late to the feature technology party. Apple car play not available until 2020 android auto til 2021, they took til 2008 to move away from cassette and til 2015 to move away from 6 cd changer. They might innovate in hybrid and hydrogen fuel cells but clearly not putting much effort into the interior user interfaces.

1234, 8888, 3711. It depends on your model if it is newer I could be a completely new code.

Yes that is correct, the surface pro 6 runs Intel chip sets which are capable of running a full version of Windows. This model is the surface pro X which runs an SQ1 ARM processor, not the regular Intel x86. Windows is as of this moment not optimized to run on ARM architecture chip sets so it has created a form of emulation to attempt and run .exe applications, which works but not always perfectly, and in some cases doesn't at all. I still to this day find applications that will not run on ARM.

That carplay USB port connects and is powered solely by the radio. If the radio is on it shouldn't be a fuse issue. Could be a cable issue or that USB hub. If that doesn't fix it then there is something wrong with the radio. Are you out of the 3/36k warranty?

@@locorudy626 unfortunately yes it’s a 2019 XLE Premium. The radio works just fine and can connect my phone via Bluetooth, it’s just the USB hub that’s faulty. I have yet to try a proper Apple USB cable but it seems it really is the hub, and dealer was trying to fleece me on the repair for sure.

Yes I would agree with your assessment of the quote. That quote is more consistent with replacing the entire head unit than a fuse ( correction just looked at the price for the OEM radio through Toyota $4k+). I hope it is not something faulty with the head unit but if it is there are a lot of junk yards with totalled Rav 4, if you need to replace your head unit I would go that route as they usually let them go for sub 400 dollars instead of the 4500+ the dealership will want for it.

@@locorudy626 awesome thanks for the information really appreciate it. I will definitely check that out if the port and cable don’t work out.

Not sure what you mean? Are you wanting to know how I got the screen to stick out? If you are there is a video on my channel that shows what I did, you just need to look I am not going to mention how I did it on every video. If that is what you are looking for I'll do you a solid and link it below since it is obvious you don't know how to browse. Go to the 4:55 mark and you will see what I did. That was my first alteration my second alteration involved 1/2 inch thick 1 inch by 1inch spacer wood blocks and extended screws that spaced out the screen clip from the frame out about 1/2 - 1 inch on top and 1.25 inch on bottom. The one in this video is the easiest and cheapest all you need is 12 screws and 4 metal 3-4 inch strap bracket. ua-cam.com/video/fws9aPA5u30/v-deo.htmlsi=ngdxI9F24JjT2rdu

I got this replacement on eBay from a seller called lord of bass. He also has a webpage but didn't have it listed there thelordofbass.com/ Technically what I did was measure the inner diameter of the surround and the outer diameter and went looking for a replacement and I found one that was super close to my measurements, it wasn't a perfect match but it worked.

@@locorudy626 Thanks. I'll see if I can track one down that way.

Thanks for watching, that's cool I've been tinkering with this vision for about 8 years now. My issue is there was no real ways to get things as seamless as possible that would simulate a factor system or something close. I have a very rough prototype that I have tested in my SUV and it worked, of course I didn't record it as it wasn't the final product but here is a picture of the adapter and hopefully, it makes sense. I probably won't have a final product for a couple months so hope this gets you by to do your own testing in the meantime. ibb.co/FXs3BWY Also that Sony radio is expensive if going digital audio it is worth it, but if not, there are better cheaper choices.

I agree, I've always had a preference for Android since it has more versatility compared to Apple iOS systems, but I'd be lying if I said I didn't like the silky smooth interface on Apple and how some select apps just work better on iOS.

I'd recommend finding a better way of spending time than watching videos you don't understand, or are beyond your comprehension. If you'd look at my channel you'd know this is not a source of revenue but a source of sharing my knowledge to help others fiddling with similar projects. I like to contribute with whatever knowledge I have to help others since what I am talking about in this video is not found elsewhere, it is literally the first comprehensive video on UA-cam about it. Now on the other hand there are people like you that are a waste of space and oxygen, I am looking at your channel and you have nothing to give, no knowledge you wish to hand down or share, simply a waste. So I can understand why when you see it elsewhere, you ridicule it.

This video was made for my subscribers, if you watched my previous short it would make more sense. Here's a break down from the keywords #1 iPad mini Downfall from dash build = iPad no longer in the race to fit my vehicles in dash entertainment, 2 Android to the rescue = I'm choosing android, 3 Reverse camera on tablet= Android supports automotive reverse camera. These are all 12v automotive terms but I appreciate the feedback and will update the description.

I'd suggest trying to ensure the drive is formatted to be be FAT32 or exFAT, trying a smaller USB drive size as the port I believe is USB 2.0 which doesn't support larger sizes. Another thing to note is to attempt MP3 on the audio files as it is the oldest recognized and supported format. And once plugged in you might need to manually switch the source to USB. If none of these are the issue and you are under 36k miles, take it to a Toyota dealership and have them troubleshoot it or replace it. If you are here in the usa your vehicle comes with a 3 year 36k mile warranty they covers any failing component in the vehicle.

I gave to the same problem 2022 Rav 4

Yes the card must be activated on a phone first.

Yes I have a few ideas of what might be happening. If you're showing bars with no signal try messing with the APN settings. If it's showing no SIM card then it might be AT&t blocking the IMEI. I myself couldn't get my AT&t SIM card to work so I had to go to Boost infinite which gave me a SIM card that works on AT&t network and that one was the only one that worked for me.

ua-cam.com/video/w6ljQxwwm2w/v-deo.htmlsi=CtASo1dxjyih_Eb8

​@locorudy626 yeah, it shows bars with no bars. It is detecting it. Shows att in network setting and show all apn info. Just no internet, but is is detected. Added new apn but it is same settings that are already there. So how does that boost infinite work?

@@TheTiredPanda have you powered the unit off and back on after installing the SIM and APN. By power off I mean a full restart by going to settings and rebooting that sometimes does it. Also check your antenna location. Boost infinite is an mvno of att and T-Mobile, depending on your area you either get a SIM that works on the T-Mobile network or the at&t network. I got on when they first went live and got a 25 dollar for life for each line. Luckily I got an att sim from them. Pretty much all I did was install the SIM set up the APN and restarted the head unit and had signal, but I did spend like a full year troubleshooting the issue.

Yeah, did that. So Boost infinite is not with att? Cause I have att. Or I get a card from boost and activate the sim with att? Just confused on that. Do you have boost website? I think I am going to the wrong one.

10.1 inch

Screen is 5.9 inches tall or 150mm by 9.44 inches wide or 240mm. The actual body with the main board that goes in the dash is about the same size as a double din which is 3.9 inches tall or 100mm by 7 inches wide or 178mm and it is a little over 4.5 inches deep or 118mm.

This is normal, the USB ports as well as the cigarette lighter port run off of accessory power, this means the vehicle needs to either be in accessory mode, (the stage where you turn your key and electronics power on in the car but the engine is not turned on), or in full power on stage where the engine or battery systems are running. This is done to prevent battery drain as well as degradation of the vehicle battery. They don't want your chargers to drain your battery to the point that one day you go to start your car and it doesn't start.

@locorudy626 I'll just use my portable battery charging kit. Now it will come in handy. Never used it. Thank-you for your reply!

No problem, I was looking for videos myself, couldn't find any so decided to do one. Glad it helped you out.

Thank you for sharing this, I will look into it and see what I can find. Appreciate it.

It's decent, definitely not the best I've heard but it's a good midrange quality when using tosh link. For the price it performs very well.

What are you trying to change? it should be pretty straightforward.

@@locorudy626 i have installed the app (its not prime). And I dont know how to set these widgets like you. For example on left side I dont have these 3 icons. Do you have facebook or instagram so I can contact you?

I cannot confirm that as my reverse camera is wired to only power on when the reverse mode is triggered. For what you need you would need to run an additional power cable and switch to turn the camera on when commanded, or have the camera always powered on with an accessory power source, which usually diminishes the life of the camera drastically.

11.6 in.

I actually have the 10.1 inch version, the 11.6 covered my ac vents

Unfortunately I did not order them, I custom built them myself. I used the morimoto mini D2S. I baked and separated the housing, modified the oem bulb rest to be flat. I test fit it, once confirmed everything set I sanded and painted the inside. I added del rings from eBay and wired each function individually in ex high beam, low beam and drl. 2001-2004 do not have drl function so you will have to run your own drl trigger for the ring control box as well as tap the turn signal. For the low and high beam you will need a relay harness to get it to function properly it's about 20 bucks on Amazon,l. If you look below or in the description I believe I linked everything I used. Here are some people who sell similar set ups: I just didn't like the price so decided to do it myself: hidretrofitkit.com/custom-headlights/2000-2007-toyota-tundra-black-projector-led-halo-switchback-headlights/?gclid=CjwKCAiA8YyuBhBSEiwA5R3-E6ENU6PXifPz2CtAcISqnnl7tiou5Xyf1z1TcUV1OZm76e3Hm1GXgBoCMHAQAvD_BwE And www.srqfabrications.com/products/05-07-sequoia-05-06-tundra-led-retrofits?variant=44582443942210&Shopify%20Primary&Sequoia%2C%2005-06%20Tundra%20LED%20Retrofits&cmp_id=20669042045&adg_id=&kwd=&device=m&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8YyuBhBSEiwA5R3-EzJqeqU5dXMikGrU6sGL8JyerPHPRFKJcy1XRU9trfdT4b08shSJTxoCcJcQAvD_BwE

Las dos van por el mismo circuito, el problema está con la conexión al diodo. La polaridad está opuesta, tienes que cortar y voltear la polaridad, en básico cortar los alambres a la caja del diodo y ponerlos con el color opuesto. En ejemplo si los alambres son rojo y negro que van al diodo tienes que cortar la línea y reconectar el diodo rojo con negro y negro con rojo

I did not record that process but this video should help you if you have the jbl model. ua-cam.com/video/g7WdDeXzByM/v-deo.htmlsi=nQ1-b1oBk91wqDaj Here is a link to how the bypass should look on the second amp under the center console. The one below the radio they explain well in the video. ibb.co/47cHtg0 For power you need this harness Metra Electronics 70-8113 You will also need two harnesses of the model number BHA7712 radio replacement harness for the amplifier bypass And a steering wheel control harness to retain steering wheel controls www.ebay.com/itm/266425721999?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=mHqN97oUSk-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=9B5jr6mDTV6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

@@locorudy626 tks bro

No problem 👍

Hello thanks for watching, I did upload an update video I recorded at the end of 2023, I hope you got the notification, if not go to my channel it shouldn't be hard to find been having a hard time finding time to upload all the content I've recorded.

I've been asked this question before but honestly if it is in your dash how would you know it is getting hot? Mine sits about 3 inches behind the screen in the dash never noticed heat from it and have had it for over 2 years now going on 3 year. Maybe if you could tell me some signs of excessive heat I'd could let you know, but in terms of feeling heat from it .. never.

I think theres an option somewhere that gives you stats from the unit with CPU temp@@locorudy626

Sucks to hear that, wish Toyota made these parts with better quality, or at least affordable to replace. Hopefully now after watching the video you have an alternative option for repair.

It's far up in my dash so I guess I've never checked or noticed, but I can say that I haven't seen the performance change with prolonged use. I've taken 6+ hr road trips and it's been fine. I've also gone to my local grocery store and had it freeze and had to restart it. It does glitch out while using Google maps, controls slow down while using the app and you lcan earn to work around it, but other than that the occasional once a month freeze or restart is all I have to worry about. If you've seen some of my other videos I installed a simple restart switch. I actually recorded the 2 year long term review last month just haven't posted it I go over all this.

@@locorudy626thanks. Is there no way to restart it without a switch when it glitches/crashes

@@RationalCreed Yes, there's also a reset button behind the screen, here is a picture for guidance. Adding that switch makes it more convenient as I only need to flick it on and off without removing the screen which can be a problem while driving. ibb.co/h8J1mSG

I did look at his site but didn't have this in his personal page, I ended up finding it in his eBay store though.

They are a good bang for your buck in terms of going with multiple zones and size speakers, more if you get an RTA tune it can level the sound fairly well. In comparison my audiocontrol DM 810 did an excellent job at flattening my audio curve this lacked the ability to cut or boost the surrounding frequencies like the audiocontrol can as this one predominantly boosts and cuts the selected frequency without much movement in the surrounding freequencies, IE cut 300 hz to -3 DB 250 and 350 would still be at 0 db. I will say even with that I was able to achieve about 90% of the curve of the audiocontrol.