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It’s possible that there is debris under the solenoid so that the diaphragm is not opening all the way, causing it to whine. I’d start there. Remove the solenoid and check the list under it. You may need to remove the entire top of the valve to clean the port properly.

You could also try replacing the solenoid with another one on your system and see if the noise stops.

@@Andy_Humphrey Thank you, Andy!

Thank you! Beginners luck, I suppose. This was my first video. Glad it helped, and I'm here if you need anything in the future.

I don’t have any experience in that area but I would imagine there is something similar.

Thanks!

Thanks! I will add it to the list.

The panel is the same regardless of the number of zones. Good luck out there and have fun.

At first, I thought the screw under the solenoid was just a plug, but then I looked at the part breakout diagram and saw that it was also a filter. Here is a link to the diagram: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1987/5531/files/Rain_Bird_GB_Parts.png?v=1720461940

Good luck with the fix!!

Excellent!! Have fun out there, here to help anytime.

Great question. It is best to remove the cap when blowing out the system. This is 100% important if the sprinkler is the lowest on the zone, less important (but recommended) if the sprinkler is highest elevation on the zone.

Great feedback, thanks!

Thank you!

@FreeManIraq58 Goog point, thanks for mentioning this. I'll pin this comment to the top for other viewers. This controller required Six (6) AA Batteries.

Yeah, unfortunately, there are no caps for rotor sprinklers. It's a bit strange.

Interesting. Definitely not normal for a transformer to be bad out of the box. Silly question, did you check the incoming power? Perhaps the GFI is tripped, etc., or the power is high and it blew the new transformer. Use a multimeter and test power going into the transformer and out of the transformer

Excellent! I don’t believe there is a battery operated, Wi-Fi connected valve actuator, yet. I take that back, they’re actually is, but it’s designed for IOT applications. Depending on the size of your valve, you could consider removing it, and installing something the Rachio Wi-Fi hose tap timer.

That is too bad, but very funny at the same time! Glad you had an 1800 with an available cap. Thank you for sharing!

It looked like on mine that it unscrewed in two pieces if you want it to use that smaller cap

Correct, it is not possible to cap a rotors because there is no such cap available for any rotor type sprinkler. To cap a rotor, you will need to use the other method, unscrew the sprinkler, and put a female threaded cap onto the service fitting.

Wow. Such an amazing comment!! I love the way you think. Thank you for thinking big! I would love to learn more .

Correct, NO AC means the controller panel is not receiving power. To diagnose this as a transformer issue, you should check the voltage coming directly out of the transformer using a multimeter, you should see something between 24-29v. If it is 0v, this will tell you the transformer has failed. If there is voltage, then the problem is somewhere else, like the ribbon cable, circuit board, face panel, etc. If you don't have a multimeter, you can use a solenoid and tap the solenoid wires to the transformer wires, and you should feel it activate. Or, a multimeter at the hardware is about $15-25.

@@Andy_Humphrey thank you!

Is there an on/off toggle switch? Either way, if you unplug the internal plug it will turn off.

Thanks for sharing! Crazy that box stores don’t sell (because it doesn’t exist) a universal solenoid with adapters for all valves.

You have the K-Rain RPS Rotors. Good sprinkler. Unfortunately, manufacturer caps are not available for this sprinkler or other rotor-style sprinklers. The service fitting under the sprinkler is 3/4", and the easiest option is to purchase a 3/4" female thread cap, unscrew the sprinkler, and cap the service fitting.

Thanks Andy

@@ofcbob6391 My pleasure. Here for you anytime.

My pleasure. You are correct, there are way too many sprinkler options 🎉

Wow, very interesting. Would love to know where you saw that recommendation. Always run the dripline perpendicular to the slope, never parallel. NETAFIM is the leader in this area and you might consider looking at the following design guide, specifically page #21 in regards to slope. www.netafimusa.com/bynder/2B928CAB-B79F-4C5D-B07691B39E2227E2-ltlcvdg-techline-hcvxr-cv-design-guide.pdf

If you need help identifying a sprinkler, you can text a picture of it to us, and we will try and identify it for you. Text the picture from your phone to: 833-343-4590

See if the arm can slide up. There should be a way to remove it. Can you reply with the exact Orbit model.

Thank you for sharing all of this information. It’s possible that one of your zones, or many, we’re not closing all of the way, and the diaphragm in the valves were opening and closing very quickly as if flapping. I would look for patterns, was this a one time occurrence, has it happened again, is it still happening, etc. I may not be a pressure problem, could be something else.

Wow, really. Click the hamburger menu on the top left, and then Zones and Programs, then Programs. From there, you should see everything. If not, you may need to contact Hunter for support.

Thank you! You can think of it like a big sprinkler, it’s fed from the lateral line into a valve box. Essentially you install it just like a sprinkler.

Oh wow, good on you for exploring the solution on your own! When was your system installed?

Thanks for sharing all this information. Yes, this is normal, and is a bit strange at first to watch when we are used to watching traditional rotors and sprays. Each stream of water is a different length, and it can look like some areas are missed, but over a period of time, it is incredible how even the distribution is. You may have to increase your runtimes, depending on the specific nozzle that was in your previous sprinkler, and the precipitation rate.

@@Andy_Humphrey thank you!! I am considering swapping most of my zones over to MP. The lawn portion of my system, 6 zones, are all unregulated PGP rotors and I guess the pressure is so high they produce so much extra mist off the main stream of water that floats away. It looks like smoke if you glance out the window when youre inside the house. Hoping to save a lot of water with MP's or at the very least, regulated rotors.

​@@RandallSavageOhhYeah - Wow, it sounds like you have a lot of pressure! Consider adding a pressure regulator at your water source so the high pressure doesn't become an issue on the entire piping structure over time. This could also save you $$ by eliminating the need to purchase the more expensive pressure-regulated sprinkler bodies. Just a thought. You can check the static pressure with a pressure gauge attached to any hose bib. Ideally, you should start with about 55psi at your source and end with 40psi at the sprinkler, but many factors can affect the dynamic pressure. My guess is that you have 70+ psi at your home based on your description. Good luck!

@@Andy_Humphrey Thanks my good man. I appreciate the advice! The pressure inside the home is regulated. The system is tied into the water pipe before the home regulator so I'd need to figure a way to check pressure at a head?

Yes, this is a great thought, and I should have spoke about it. It should certainly be taken into consideration, specifically, if the sprinkler is located at the bottom of the slope, or is the lowest sprinkler on the zone. It is likely that only the lowest sprinkler on the zone will retain water, but if the system is being winterized, the cap could be removed for blowout. Thanks for pointing this out!

Hi Alan. You are right; I did not mention this. PRS is not a requirement for any sprinkler nozzle. It is, however, required by law in some states when purchasing new sprinklers, like California - not because it is required by the nozzle (such as MP Rotators), but because it is now a requirement of the sprinkler body. In terms of the MP Rotator, this nozzle performs best at 40psi, so if you are considering PRS-type sprinklers, you will want to purchase the 40psi option. MP's work better at higher pressures than spray nozzles which will "mist" heavily at higher pressures. Yes, you can use the MP Rotator with non-PRS 1800 heads without any issues. Have fun out there.

I like that analogy. Perhaps that’s why you hear the term, fixed spray nozzle. Thanks for sharing!

Yes, absolutely. The XFS dripline is 16mm, and the XQF Header is compatible with any 16-17mm dripline.

@@Andy_Humphrey Thanks!

Excellent thought. Yes, it can. However, the bottleneck effect may not be realized unless the length of funny pipe is long. The effect will be decreased dynamic pressure due to increased friction loss. Picture what 2ft of funny pipe versus 25ft of funny pipe might look like. Bigger bottle neck becomes a bigger problem, small bottleneck is likely not a problem.

Yes, maybe, it depends on the specific timer. Check to see if your timer has a "sensor" input. If it does, then you can use this. Remember that you will need to power the receiver with 24vAC which may or may not be possible at your location. If it is not possible then I would recommend a wired rain sensor because it does not require a power source.

Wow, that is so funny! You must replace the entire box because the top specifically matches the bottom. It might be possible to cover your existing box with a new box. Perhaps you can trim the box to just a few inches tall and place it over. Osprinklersupplystore.com/collections/rain-bird-valve-boxes/products/rain-bird-10-inch-round-valve-box

@@Andy_Humphrey That's what i figured. was hoping to find just lids that locked down on the bottoms. Appreciate ya!

Thanks for sharing! Hello from Traverse City ;)

Great thought. You are probably correct. It is often not possible to install it that way due to the ground being directly underneath, versus if it were installed on a pipe inside, hanging from the wall.

Thank you! 🤙

Hi Sal. You certainly could, however, the only advantage will be for the sprinklers at the bottom of a slope, where water continues to seep out after the zone turns off.

Great question. I can say the Hunter is the “original” with the most units installed. Is 40psi the pressure at the sprinkler, or at your house? MP work best at 40psi, and not so good at 30-35psi.

Yoiu’re welcome!!

I’m not following your exact question. The springs are unrelated to the sprinkler pressure requirement. The 32SA is rated down to 25psi (images.salsify.com/image/upload/s--Sikg69SR--/bqsvkd5hifn3nc1mhytw) To reduce friction loss and conserve pressure you have 2 options. #1 increase the pipe size. #2 reduce the water volume (use smaller nozzles, or remove sprinklers). Last option is a booster pump. Hope that helps.

Haha, would love to hear more about this!

Hi Brian. Which yellow nut are you describing? Perhaps you mean the yellow cap on the test port? This part is just a cap and not needed. If it leaks, my guess is the port is still open. Grab a flathead screwdriver and take a close look. It should be turned perpendicular for "OFF". It is probably turned just a little bit and is, therefore, leaking. Just a hunch.

Hi Jeff. Which specific metal sprinkler? There may not be a cap. You will likely have to remove the sprinkler, and put a cap on the pipe feeding it.