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Derek Does Stuff
Приєднався 28 сер 2006
This is the channel where the stuff happens! What stuff, nobody knows until it's 3/4 done and then onto the next stuff!
Reno Part 71 - Wrap Last Wall
In this video we get the past (north east) built out with Larsen trusses and ready for blown-in insulation.
Переглядів: 14
Відео
Reno Part 70 - Front Larsen Trusses
Переглядів 10114 днів тому
In this video we get the front of the house built out with Larsen trusses, wrapped, and prep for the front porch roof.
Reno Part 69 - Smashing Stairs
Переглядів 2121 день тому
In this video we get the old front stairs moved out of the way of the scaffolding.
Reno Part 67 - More ERV Ports
Переглядів 12Місяць тому
In this video we get a second set of intake and exhaust ports installed after deciding to get a dedicated ERV per washroom.
Reno Part 66 - Wrap SW Side
Переглядів 23Місяць тому
In this video we get the SW Side of the house built out and wrapped for blown-in insulation.
Reno Part 65 - Wrap Other Rear Corner
Переглядів 53Місяць тому
In this video we get the other rear corner of the house wrapped in larsen trusses for exterior insulation.
Reno Part 64 - First Floor Larsen Trusses
Переглядів 942 місяці тому
In this video we get the first floor of larsen trusses installed on the exterior of the house and get the first row of the outer most weather barrier installed.
Reno Part 63 - 4” Dust Collection For New Mitre Saw
Переглядів 462 місяці тому
In this video we take a Milwaukee 6955-20 plug in 13 inch compound mitre saw and upgrade the dust collection by making in and adapter for 4” dust collection systems.
Reno Part 62 - Wrapping Another Wall
Переглядів 622 місяці тому
In this video we get the back corner of the house wrapped, strapped and detailed for soffits.
Reno Part 61 - Wrap Larsen Trusses
Переглядів 233 місяці тому
In this video we get the rear gable end of the house built out with Larsen trusses and wrapped.
Reno Part 60 - Seal Foundation
Переглядів 513 місяці тому
In this videonwe get the main building wrap sealed to the foundation before continuing with Larsen trusses on the exterior.
Reno Part 59 - Save The Birds
Переглядів 203 місяці тому
In this video we get our 5x10 stair landing window covered in bird safe anti-collision tape.
Reno Part 53 - Continue Larsen Trusses
Переглядів 324 місяці тому
Reno Part 53 - Continue Larsen Trusses
Reno Part 50 - Start Exterior Larsen Truss Build Out
Переглядів 325 місяців тому
Reno Part 50 - Start Exterior Larsen Truss Build Out
Reno Part 44 - Finish Weatherproofing
Переглядів 566 місяців тому
Reno Part 44 - Finish Weatherproofing
Reno Part 42 - Roof Blocking & Infill
Переглядів 1,1 тис.6 місяців тому
Reno Part 42 - Roof Blocking & Infill
same. new 3D touch works couple of days than same error(
Did you use it for a longer period? Did it work ok, or did it break / needed to be repaired? I just bought one and not only there are rattling sounds but the engine doesn't hold RPM, like it only has pulse mode available..
Does the juice taste better for real or it's just a marketing gimmick?
there is no gimmick , its a proven fact oxidation destroys the food , and promotes degradation of the cells. a easy way to try to is to blend a watermelon with a regular blender vs vacuum blender , you notice a subtle difference in the color/ pink and the taste is very bland, similar to watermelon powders.
is there a place where you could have the keyboard pre built?
Did you get it replaced and working better with the replacement?
I ended up returning mine. My daily smoothie with frozen fruit just has this issue to many times. Never heard from custom support after sending the unit back. I hope they come up with a work around if other people also run into this edge case.
I’ve had mine for a week and no issue with the vacuum seal. There’s multiple places it could leak. I noticed it is important to close the lid all the way or else it doesn’t seat against the seal well. I suspect one of the seals may have become unseated and just needed to be pressed back into place
I would also recommend putting all the frozen fruit at the bottom closest to the blade from the get go it starts breaking those down and reduces the jolting impacts from whole chunks hitting the blade individually. It’s better to use the strong motor to break down the frozen fruit immediately.
Curious. Did you use the KAtyl tops for this build? I printed the KAtylk-top-left.stl and the Hactyl-bottom-left and they didn't fit. KAtyl top is longer. This by design?
hi, awesome build! where did you get those pcbs for the Dactyl Manuform? thanks
It's in desc
i think bastardkeyboards has the PCBs in their Scylla DIY kit, or you could search for someone selling Ameoba per key PCBs.
Great window helper you got there
Never had a problem with mine. You need to contact kuvings.
I’ve been thinking about purchasing this. Now I’m hesitant
were you able to measure the decibel level with an app or something like that? trying to compare with the vitamix, thanks!
Hi Derek, thank you for posting this. Does it break the vacuum seal frequently?
Yes it does, it was about 1/3 the time for me, before i returned it. Mostly with more frozen ingredients that would cause the jar to rattle when starting out.
Why does it need a vacuum?
i don't get it either
Vacuum blenders suck out air that would otherwise oxidize the smoothie sooner. it also makes the smoothie taste better. it's a whole thing
You know you can take the hinges off and move the fence think smarter friend
Sadly, not if you used chains and metal zip ties 😢
Actually he probably didn't have his socket set or cordless drill on him to unfasten the gate to be able to lift the gate off of the ground plates.
Luv this song😂
Very cool. I'm curious how the jack got the beam all the way to the top as it looked slightly higher than the I-beam.
good question, for the flush beam i got some support boards screwed on, then i was able to lift each end of the beam manually and slide in some boards, and finally an inflatable shim to fine tune it, you can see it at 1:45
The motor is slow and sparking
Brushes dirty or just worn out?
I know this video is from a while back, and now there is a MCU holder for skeletyl. But I am curious on how did you make the MCU and the TRRS jack stay in place, are they glued on or just being slotted into tight fit? And does it stays in place, fall over, or even break if it gets knocked off or dropped, i.e strong enough? I am currently building charybdis with NRFMicro and planning to use the TRRS slot for power button. Debating which MCU holder that I'm gonna use, official bastardkb or void's. And if this build of yours is actually reliable enough, I might just do this and not order the MCU holder. Thanks
i would order a holder as a backup so you don’t have to pay for shipping again for such a small part but to answer your question, it was glued in place by hand with a little bit of patience and was very reliable, although not easily serviced if you needed to rewire something later
Awesome!
Thanks for this vdieo. This will be great in my apt.
podrias dar tu archivo .cfg con las macros please
Very well!
get a 725 maybe, my 725 never failed yet and 600 cycles
They don’t even make those anymore. Only the 650 and Pro 800
@@ltn4793 that's a shame.
It’s interesting in how much Blendtec has gone downhill when it comes to their quality control. It got worse after they sold their company to an equity firm couple years back
@@ltn4793 I don't think their quality went down, I just think they don't market well
🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤬🤬🤬🤬😡😡😡😡👺👺👺👺👺👹👹👿👿😈hghjgukjgy
erreur : zéro crossing non détection?
Mine just filled the whole kitchen with smoke
Honestly, I’ve gone through multiple until they finally send me a decently built unit. I dissembled my now returned pro 800 to see what was causing this and the problem has to do with the insulation foam rubbing on the actual motor cooling fan itself, causing the foam to either burn or shred due to the people at blendtec not assembling these units properly. That’s also with a combination of the restrictive airflow by design, causing the motor to prematurely overheat. Their quality control has definitely taken a big hit since they’re no longer family owned as they sold their company to an equity firm a couple years back. If only Vitamix made a residential version of their quiet one blenders, but even those have a 50/50 chance of not breaking down.
i was tempted to take one apart myself, blendtec didn’t even want the last DOA unit back so it’s still sitting in my basement in a box thanks for the info, it’s crazy this is such a hard thing for any company to do well :/
What is this?
an open source ergonomic computer keyboard
what can be done
Nice :)
how about sharing that bltouch macro dfg ?
same issue on mks robin nano v1.2 with 3dtouch probe no matter what setting in printer.cfg is still says Failed to verify BLTouch probe is raised; retrying. 02:35:44 Failed to verify BLTouch probe is raised; retrying. 02:31:54 BLTouch failed to deploy 02:31:54 BLTouch failed to deploy
Hello. Today I faced the same problem. Did you manage to solve it?
Backer 4059 checking in here 👌🎉🎊
Im 4436 🤪
584 but still waiting 🤣
Did you get this sorted? Mine does the same.
🙌 𝓹𝓻𝓸𝓶𝓸𝓼𝓶
really awesome video makes me want to build my own
Yes! This is how the case should be split. Much easier to work with.
That was entirely my motivation. Some builders prefer the flexibility of using a tenting base, but i prefer to build most of the tenting into the case walls. After a certain point, i had to split the plate from the walls to re-gain access to the index columns for soldering.
But will it blend?
this is a problem with the brushes
how did you wired the RGB and witch type did you use 60 per meter?
Might be a dumb question. This is handwired? You aren't using a PCB? I might be wrong on what I am asking.
Correct. Hand wired to the solder pads of kailh hotswap sockets to form the matrix used by the micro controller to detect which keys are pressed.
@@DerekNheiley Matrix? Like the lines on a PCB that connect the switches?
@@alexjune6414 Look up "How to make a keyboard matrix" - There is a really nice blog post by Komar explaining keyboard matrices.
@@bulgarianrocker Ah okay. It seems like it is what I think it is. Thank you.
How much was it when you bought it pls?
$500 USD in January of 2018
wow it is now 1200€ in germany its like double the price
Hi Derek, i love your dactyle keyboards videos, they are pretty cool. Keep it up buddy! I have a question, Do you sell these keyboards?
I sell previous versions of personal builds from time to time
Damn Cool!!!
Why have you turned off the comments of many of your keyboard videos? I wanted to ask a question on one of them.
sorry about that, i don’t think i realized they were off
Do you have the STL files for this still?
Much quite with the lid closed
Thanks for the video. Build looks great. Do you have some details on your componets? The RGB look like WS2801 with a fold to get the distance corrected? What microcontroler are you using and what are your keycaps and switches to let the light pass through?
WS2801 will work, promicro / elite-c controllers are shown in the wiring diagram on github. Any backlight compatible keycaps will work, but they're not as common as solid keycaps. For more details see github.com/dereknheiley/crystal-dactyl
Thank you! :)
i can only share a basic starting point, but this should get you going in the same direction i took pastebin.com/nWKn9TyB