Відео

Don't know. My 2008 had a basic CD player and didn't have a built-in microphone.

Yes, 315MHz. I show a screen shot of the spectrum analyzer picking up my key FOB in the video (at about 2:27 in).

Right. After I got new wheels and tires, I had the TPMS light always on. This post (not my post) on a thread about it made sense to me. It worked great. www.tundras.com/posts/975359 The wires/connector are on the passenger side down under the dash. Easy access. I have a small section and a picture of my implementation on my build thread at www.tundras.com/threads/matts-2-445-mile-2008-tundra-dc-build.120735/ search for "TPMS" to jump to that section.

@@N6EAJ thank you for that fix, as well. I also want to do your stereo head unit replacement. I have the factory JBL setup 15 speakers, so I want to see if just the head unit will improve the sound quality and the other issues that I have with the stock unit.

Thanks!

I have just over 2 hours on it which were all break-in hours (cycled the load between zero and various levels). Not sure if your inline surge protector shows the true/highest surge since the surge can be fairly brief. The fact that your single 1600/2000 generator works OK with your 15K AC out of ECO mode seems to show that the Firman either has a problem OR they don't let surges last as long before they give up OR they don't react fast enough to a big surge in ECO mode. Although you probably don't want to leave the Firman out of ECO mode, it might be an interesting experiment to see if it overloads when out of ECO mode running your AC. Near the end of hour 2 of break-in, I loaded up the Firman to about 2400W, but that was an easy load (heaters/heat guns with almost no surge). Compressors can have a heck of a kick although your soft start should help a bunch with that. Mine is going to be used to run the house (limited 120V items of course) during power outages. When it is warm, I have two 5000BTU window air conditioners that only draw about 425W each running. Since there are two, it is unlikely that both compressors would turn on at the exact same time. I had two 1600/2000W suit case style generators (Pulsar and a Champion), but I wanted something that I wouldn't have to run in parallel and the electric start is nice. If you figure out more on yours, let us know. Good luck.

@@N6EAJ My tests were performed in full power mode as well as eco. While the Firman did run my AC initially in eco mode, it had the same 2 hour overload reaction as it does in full power mode. I’m 2.5 hours in as we speak with an outside temp of 80 degrees and humid. Running off my pair of suitcase 1600/2000 units in eco mode. AC compressor cycles on and off with zero issues. The pair of them ramp up slightly when comp kicks in and they settle down to a nice low rpm when comp kicks off so I feel like the issue is in the firman genny. Firman is working with me to sort out the issue so I hope to report back in a couple weeks if I get a good working WH03242 because that unit fits my needs perfectly…..if it’ll work properly.

Well, Firman took care of me and warrantied it. The replacement unit works flawlessly! Ran it for almost 4 hours last night on propane in eco mode. It cycled my AC throughout the entire time without issue. Very pleased with it.

@@jrsnavely9703 Glad to hear they took care of you. I guess you got a lemon.... which might be a more common occurrence with the refurbished units.

Thanks for the comment. I noticed there wasn't much on UA-cam about the refurbished version. Similar to your plan of using a Firman and Ecoflow, I have a small bank of deep cycle batteries and an inverter that I use at night when power is out just for running the refrigerator and lights at home. If I put some hours on the Firman (run it for a day or more continuously during a power outage), I will make an update video. The last time we had an power outage for more than a few hours (maintenance on the power lines in the area) was at least three years ago so the Firman might not see many hours for a few years. You never know.... which is why we buy them :)

I have had my current Joying (JY-TZ167N4) for about 5.5 months. The description talks about the new features (compared to the original JY-TQ167N4G-B). The main reason I switched to the newer version was to get front and rear "dash cam" (bumper cams for me). The radio will record both the front and rear cameras when the truck is running. You need to add a uSD card for the radio to record to. The higher V line level outs are nice too. Split screen is better compared to the older version. Both versions physically look identical. Getting to your questions, yes you can add amps like Poweramp (the audio player I use). I use a 256GB thumb drive plugged into the radio to store all my music. OBD Fusion works great on it. The Joying AR cameras have great resolution with this radio. The metal case of the radio isn't double DIN size (much smaller), but the complete head unit covers the entire double DIN area of the Tundra. My first Joying (JY-TQ167N4G-B that is in this video) did have intermittent display problems (as covered in my video). Joying was responsive and sent me a replacement cable (cable from screen to unit). That seemed to fix it, although I really needed a few weeks with it to know for sure, but the cable came about the same time I replaced it with the newer version. I am very happy with the JY-TZ167N4, but will see how she is doing in another six months. If you haven't already watched SoCal Expeditions video on the same (newer) radio, it is here. It is a lot of install info, but some operating video. ua-cam.com/video/sSds9CSkd5Y/v-deo.htmlsi=g-lkS_7A8UGcTcO_

@@N6EAJ Thank you for your reply man, I really appreciate it. I'm just so hesitant at this point to buy another Joying unit after both of my others failed (2 within 2 years). I am only considering it because I can't find anything else out there with the same size and price point. I could deal with a smaller screen size but hard to find a Kenwood or JVC with the same functionality. I contacted Joying to let them know I had two failures but they don't seem to want to work with me too much. They offered like a 5% discount if I buy a new unit. I would have thought they would offer more than that considering all the money I have spent on their products already. So I guess it's going to be a crap shoot again at this point.

@@dough-u8x I feel your pain. I would prefer to stick to a Kenwood, Sony or similar Japanese head unit, but the features you get with the Joyings are hard to beat. I wanted a physical volume knob and a SIM card slot. I also really like having a full Android operating system. The Joying is the only option for that. It is nice having a dedicated SIM card so I don't have to mess around with Android Auto or Car Play. Having a SIM card is also a poor-mans LoJack since I can use the Android "Find My Device" feature.

I made a circuit to light the corner lights when the turn signal wasn't going, but flash the corners when the turn signals were on. It used the stock bulb socket / bulb or LED bulb replacement. It used a microcontroller and a MOSFET to control power to the corner lights. I ran the turn signal wires to the circuits so they could see when the turn signal is going. I imagine it works similar to the internal circuitry on switchback bulbs.

@@N6EAJ too complicated for me i want to do it but would need to see how to be able.

@@juangonzalez9112 If you can find a bulb socket to fit into the corners with three conductors (two filament), then you could use a amber/amber switchback (amber on, then amber flash on/off). I think some people would drill out the corner bulb opening so they could silicone in a different socket.

@@N6EAJ Ok,that sounds more easy i think thats what iam going to do,thanks for your help.

I go into a lot of detail on my "build thread" on Tundras.com (both audio and non-audio). www.tundras.com/threads/matts-2-445-mile-2008-tundra-dc-build.120735/ The head unit is a Joying JY-TZ167N4 10.1" head unit. It feeds an AudioControl Epicenter bass restorer, then a Dayton Audio DSP-408 DSP, then a Down4Sound (D4S) JP95 5-channel amplifier (700W x 1 RMS power at 2ohm (Sub), 120W X4 into 4 Ohms). Front 6x9 + mid-tweets are Kenwood KFC-XP6902C and the rears (mostly filler) are Rockford Fosgate R1525X2 5.25" speakers.

I do not. I don't think a cell phone microphone can capture what it really sounds like. If you happen to be in the San Diego area, feel free to contact me and you can hear it in person. It shakes the rear view mirror well and the side mirrors some, but I don't think I can capture on video what it sounds like in person.

I just got this same set up. 2 10w1v3-4 can I ask how much power rms is your sub amp? I am trying to to decide what amp to get?

Did you mod your back seat brackets to let the backrest down?

@@acoleman808 My amplifier is a down for sound (D4S) JP95. The 5th channel is rated for 700W RMS into 2 Ohms. Here is a good test on it... it put out more than 700W.

@@acoleman808 Yes, it is the "back seat mod" for double cabs. You just cut off a little section of the back metal "hooks" and then you can put it down. www.tundras.com/threads/dc-fold-down-rear-seats.699/

I think you can set the Agama launcher in the Android settings OR in the Agama settings. Did you try setting it as default in the Agama settings? That is all I can think of to try.

The front camera is good for two things. 1. I have the camera adjusted (angle wise) so if an parking space line is at the very bottom of the screen then my bumper is almost over that line. It helps me pull all the way forward in a parking spot without going over... nice since the Tundra is large 2. For the version of the radio that you can currently buy (JY-TZ167N4), the front camera acts as a dash cam. As soon as I start the truck, the video from both the front and rear camera are recorded to the optional SD card that is plugged into the radio. I guess I should call it a bumper cam.

1. The home screen with the Toyota symbol is the Agama launcher. There is a link to it in this video's description. 2. Using the newer version of the radio (the description talks about the old VS new version of the radio), you can have both a front and rear camera. From the description "The JY-TZ167N4 also has a dedicated front camera input and comes ready to record both the front and rear cameras once you add a uSD card." Of course you don't need to record the video from the cameras, but it makes a very convenient bumper cam (or wherever you mount them). The AR cameras that Joying sells are very reasonably priced and put out a high resolution image. I used to use an aftermarket tailgate handle camera, but the resolution was low and it looked cruddy on the big Joying screen. The original version of the radio had a generic A/V input so that is where I plugged my front camera into. The new version has a dedicated front input and integrates both front and camera better.

If you use the four speaker level outs or the four line level outs to a 4-ch amplifier, you can fade front to rear and left to right. I only run front L and R line level outs to my Audio Control Epicenter (and then on to a Dayton DSP and five channel amp) so I can not fade front/rear.

I'm better off with 4G with the head unit when I can get it. The radio would not get data unless the reception indicator said 4G. If it showed signal strength bars but no 4G graphic, I would not get data. Perhaps it wasn't 3G, but whatever mode it was showing signal strength for was not getting me data. With the newer version of the radio (see description), I no longer have dead spots where I have decent signal, but no data. As long as I show OK signal strength, I get data. My APN settings have not changed so the difference must be with the newer version radio.

I don't believe it works with an oem microphone. It does support steering wheel controls although I don't have SWC. I use the Joyimg add on SWC and it sets up the same way.... you go into the Joying SWC app and map the buttons on the swc to the functions you want in the app.

Yes. Google play store works fine.

It is very hard to decide listening to clips on youtube. I watched so many clips before I decided on 12", but I also was unsure. At first, I thought maybe I should have got the 10", but after I drove it more I realized it sounds about stock just putting around, but when I give it a little gas (don't have to floor it) it gives a nice, but mellow deep V8 sound. That is what I was looking for. I think I would have been happy with either a 10" or 12", but I have only heard my 12" in person. I haven't heard any other DD systems.

@@N6EAJthank you very much , I think the 12 would be a better fit for me, I like the fact that is close to stock when cruising but you get that rumble when you step on it , I think that is close to the Trd dual exhaust , also it won’t bother us much when towing our camper in the mountains. Appreciate the reply , Merry Christmas to you and your family

Thank you for your input. I had the 10" and loved how it sounded at idle, and even while driving it was louder, but not obnoxious. When I hauled my car trailer, loaded and it would shift looking for gears it got pretty loud. Even with the resonator installed it was more than I wanted. I sold the 10, and I'm leaning towards the 12, especially after hearing yours. Stock is just too quiet for me. Thank you for the video. @@N6EAJ

@@Aircoolerkirk My 12" at idle is a bit quiet, but I am happy when on the gas. I watched so many UA-cam video trying to decide. At least Dirty Deeds will let you exchange one system for another if you decide what you got was too loud or quiet. You just have to pay for shipping... which might be a little expensive. They are in SE San Diego so I just drove there and had them install it... about an hour drive for me. I'm going to stick with the 12".

@@jrahmeyou’re silly. If you tow for long periods of time stick with stock. I have a TRD exhaust. And I hate it while towing. Sounds like a mastercraft ski boat full throttle. The exhaust note will bounce off your trailer and be even louder. I’m having hime make me the 24’ quieter than the TRD exhaust with the resonators.

I mounted the camera on the black plastic under/behind the front bumper. Let me see if I can post a link to a picture. tnstatic.net/attachments/front_camera_mount-jpg.891379/

@@N6EAJ thank you!

Sure. I haven't figured out how to send private messages in youtube, but I have a hobby website n6eaj.com and you can go to the contact link at the bottom of that page and pull my email off there... that way I don't have to put it directly on youtube.

Me too please

I am in N. San Diego (Escondido). If anyone ever wants to hear the subs/box or check out the Joying radio (and live nearby), let me know and you can take a listen. It is hard to know how something will sound without hearing it in person.

I'll say 8, but of course it is very subjective. Compared to a 5 cubic foot box and two subs that have a 12" mounting depth, it will be a little short. Considering the 10W1v3-4 are considered a shallow mount sub and the Fox box is 1.9 cubic feet they put out an amazing amount of bass. I like that the 10W1v3-4 want a ported box volume right about perfect for the Fox box (0.9 cubic feet each). For a stealth sub setup that still leaves room for storage under the passenger side seat, I am very happy with both the box and the JL subs. It does much more than extend bass..... it gets the mirrors moving.

I bought the Joying in mid February of 2022 so it went through the inland San Diego summer (lots of low to mid 90F days with an occasional day near 100F). The first two months I used it to power my speakers directly which should have added to the heat. After that, I have been using an external amplifier. The only problem I had with it (dislikes #2 in the video and description) has not come back since Joying had me pull the ribbon cable and put it back on. It has been a few weeks now.

I can't say I have noticed dash squeaking since installing the radio. I saw one person installed it and put the stock side metal mounts on the Joing..... not sure if that might help. Mine snaps in solidly with the two clips on the bottom and top (the ones with the stock yellow inserts that put pressure to hold in place).

@@N6EAJ Yeah the stock metal mounts wont fit in there. Not sure why mine creaks so much now…but great reason to add more suspension and turn the volume up more!

i hear that listening to Reign In Blood at high volumes makes the squeeking cease@@socalexpeditions

@@mikestivers8302 I actually got all the squeaking to stop…the left side of the HVAC controls were rubbing right up against where the left dash trim panel is. A thin piece of felt wedged in there and good to go

Yes, it isn't too much louder than stock while just cruising, but get on the throttle some (even 30%) and it has a nice low rumble on acceleration.

يمكنك محاولة نسخ ولصق تعليماتي على Tacomawold (الرابط في الوصف) ومعرفة ما إذا كان بإمكان Google ترجمتها.

Did you ever figure it out ? I'm in that boat right now lol

@@4207Points i ended up getting a light bar instead.

I switched to Car Dashroid right away. I don't remember if I messed with Google contacts, but I did try swiping right in Car Dashdroid to use their default calling setup (which may use Google Contacts). That never worked for me. To make phone calls, I either call from my phone since I have it on my dash charging typically or I use voice commands to start a call (with my phone in my pocket).

Hmmm a remote control for media over BT.... I haven't tried one. Avin doesn't seem to offer one specific for the HU. Generic ones may work, but I haven't tried any.

Oscar Koky Settings, Bluetooth, search for OBD devices. I am already paired so my ODB2 device shows up there, but I believe that is where it asks for the PIN for the first time. I use Torque (paid version).

Yes you can, but you don't get much current out of it. I measured 4.75V @ 0.46A. That was with a six foot USB extension to get to my center console so I bet it will do a full 500mA with a shorter cable. If you are a road warrior and you are using your GPS, have your screen on, sharing data from your phone to your Avin, you probably want to use a dedicated charger that can supply much more power to your phone.

I don't know if an iPhone can share its data connection over a cable. I don't think so, but I don't know for sure. The alternate plan would be to run a wifi hotspot on your iPhone and then have the Avin connect to the wifi hotspot. I no longer use USB tethering to share my phone data connection to my Avin. When my phone connects via bluetooth to my Avin, I have an app (Llama) automatically turn on my wifi hotspot on my phone (Nexus 6). The Avin is always looking for wifi connections so within a few seconds the Avin sees the wifi connection and connects to my phone. This is handy since it is automatic and lets me have data to the Avin without any effort.

@@N6EAJ Does this require root?

I have Copilot installed on my Avin. It lets you pick map areas to download (I picked something like SW United States to download since I live in California). I didn't find a way to store the maps to the USB drive so it does take up storage room. Copilot works well on my Avin, but it isn't as smooth as Google Maps. Contact Tommy at Avin to see if there is a SW update for your Avin.

I don't think the radio came with a manual. On top of the radio is a sticker that has wire colors and names (for example orange = ILL for illumination). You can try Tommy at Avin to see if he has anything in languages other than English. Google Translate output: Eu não acho que o rádio veio com um manual. No topo do rádio é um adesivo que tem as cores dos fios e nomes (por exemplo laranja = ILL para iluminação). Você pode tentar Tommy no Avin para ver se ele tem alguma coisa em outros idiomas além do Inglês.

Pulling Orange ILL. (illumination) to 12V while the unit is powered up should light the capacitive buttons along the left side. I tied the orange wire to the Red ACC wire (switched 12V) so the buttons light up whenever the Avin is on. For kicks when I first got it, I tried increasing the voltage on the ILL wire to see if the capacitive buttons changed brightness. They didn't. Over 5V turned them on the same as putting 12V on ILL>

+N6EAJ thanks so much for the response!!! i'll check to see if I forgot that wire when installing it 😁

Not sure what you mean by "just put in" the Bluetooth. The Bluetooth is internal on the universal Avin (no external module needed). I have had a few times over the last year+ where I have had to repair my phone to the Avin. Audio quality isn't good on the Universal Avin and the built-in microphone, but it does work.

i mean that i just installed the unit in my car and the bluetooth can not find my phone

+Bobby Thong Gotcha. Make sure you are trying to pair from the right section. You don't pair the phone in the usual Android way. Going into settings, Bluetooth is the usual way, but on the Avin that only works for the OBDII adapter. To pair a phone, you have to use the big blue Bluetooth app that came preloaded on the phone. I am going by memory since I'm away on vacation. If you are already doing it this way, I don't have anything else I can think of to help.

I try that button Already but it dose not scan for the phone it just say phone name as error

I got a new build of the operating system from Tommy at Avin. The build had twice as much memory in the partition that was getting filled. External memory won't help. That was about a year ago or longer.