- 25
- 136 406
Bearded engineer’s show
United States
Приєднався 27 кві 2022
New life of soviet TV
Making unversial analog retro monitor for any system.
www.patreon.com/borodistor
www.patreon.com/borodistor
Переглядів: 1 200
Відео
Shadeless lighting for drill bench
Переглядів 2,4 тис.6 місяців тому
Making DIY lighting for drill machine with LEDs around the bit
How to make a PCB with soldering mask
Переглядів 52 тис.2 роки тому
How to make a PCB with soldering mask
How to make a high quality pcb by yourself
Переглядів 46 тис.2 роки тому
How to make a high quality pcb by yourself
okay..
Совецкий электронный калькулятор, а не аналоговый (феликс)
Не "совецкий", а советский. От слова совет
No thanks
I'm going to give this a try. I have been using the UV resin mask but I'm having a difficult time removing the cured mask from the pads using my laser. It's messing up the pads to where they won't take solder. Great explanation and video, thanks!
You deserve all the views in the world brother.
Dude, my missus would have my balls if I used the oven. I bought a small toaster oven some years back , added a PIC, triac and thermocouple, well, you know the rest...
I did so aw well later, man)
Dude this is the best most clean looking end product tutorial I’ve seen on UA-cam thank you!!!
Amazing video, if i were to use copper sulfite and salt, what would be the percentage of each? Thanks
Approximatly one part of copper sulfite for two parts of salt. But it's not best way. Really
Which kind of transparent paper did you use?
Not the paper but film. Just ordinary film for inkjet printers
@@fixitalex is there a way to achieve the same effect using a laser printer?
I tried several times. Maybe two or even three printed layers will help. But film may deform a little because of heat. So layers may not match.
He definitely established a new standard in terms of coolness.
Nice ring light!
Intriguing, but I have no idea what you are using??
It's all described in my previous videos
1:22 SELF-ADHESIVE PAPYRUS. I LOVE ANCIENT TECHNOLOGIES!
1:16 I LOVE ANCIENT ORNAMENTS!
This is awesome. Super vintage😈😈
sounds like Borat...."NICE"
and what if i where a cheapo cheato that just covers the pads with something soluable in water and spray it with lacquer ? :D
Cool
why you take the video then recored the sound thats look so much bad
Have you ever tried to translate your video to foreign language? Don't answer! I know that most of the efforts sounds awful!
ua-cam.com/video/k1Nfsmf7BeY/v-deo.htmlsi=rXuYbf7iSvi2MP44
Still wont fly with high density and micro packages
Promo`SM 👉
Nice video sir, Kindly make high power regulated power supply.
It will be great to make part 3 about liquid tinning the pcb
I'd better tell about holes metalizing
@@fixitalex that would be better waiting for it
Thanks for explaining the reactions of different chemicals. I've been using persulfate for years, but it's quite expensive and I'm definitely going to try out H2O2 + HCl instead.
great job! super super clean!
Appreciate the video, thanks for showing us the process!
Kis kis ne is reel ko phele slide Kiya lekin phir bad men bhi slide kya 👇
it's funny how there's a strong element of conservatism in human nature, once some people learn through-hole they get too comfortable there. and the older you get the harder it is to learn newer things. let's push ourselves everyone! in the same vein though, why a rigid board? if you're going to go through the trouble of making a custom board, might as well make it flex. for rigid boards it's easier and cheaper to order them
Sure! All of my friends still using THT. It's funny because at work they are designing for SMD
Бедняга , на улице ночь , а он в очках солнцезащитных сидит 😂😂😂
Попрошу заметить: не солнце - а лазер! И вам, батенька, на другой канал - там видео побольше будет)
24:24 Don't forget safety glasses brother, I rather have a chemical burn on my hand than on my cornea!
Thank you. It's been decades since I've heard anyone recommend washing anything with gasoline. It warms my old-man heart. Also, these types of jobs is why I bought a toaster-oven.
It's widеly used across former Soviet Union
@@fixitalex Here too but don't tell Brandon.
for the one compound, it's good to use a roller. having a plotter and adhesive vinyl, for masking before curing is a must...but yeah use a roller to apply that's for shure
Hi from Sinc Lair!
Is he ok?
На инглиш переметнулся?)
Не переметнулся, а продублировал - расширив тем самым аудиторию
If you ever want help on a project, look me up; Accelerated Electronics. I have a lot of experience prototyping new projects.
Very nice work, as always.
hey! I really like your little drill press @31:23, did you make that yourself?
Yes I did. I'm planning to make a video about it
yep
great vid . i kust dont know how did you get the photomask printed thats the part im confusedon
Just inject printing
nice
More videos!
Good job, btw.
Well... Ok
Wow, super.
In 2023 PCBWAY is a thing lol.
An then you find a mistake or collisions... So it's better to prototype first
@@fixitalex You know what I find funny when people say "PCBWay is cheap"? It's not cheap, you still have to pay for the expensive shipping fee, tax and custom fees. It's pretty expensive.
@@padmad3k63 Agreed. It's really expencive. By the way it doesn't work in Russia anymore
@@gnom A lot of people complained about getting hit with a bill afterwards of their customs ending paying up almost the same as what they paid for their whole delivery including shipping. But you made good points, you can only order min 5 PCB's. If you made a mistake on the layout then you wasted your money and you're stuck with 5 faulty PCB's. Have you ever tried the silkscreening method, using real silkscreen? I haven't tried this yet but this seems the best method for homemaking PCB's.
@@padmad3k63 Now I'm working to impove the technology. So I think in couple of months I'll make video about holes metalization, soldermask and silkscreen
Почему на буржуйском?
На пролетарском ужке есть
If you wanna go cheap use black epoxy after all your parts are soldered in place. No one needs to know the board was homemade.
That's not fair. Somebody will repair it one day
Nice video! I've been doing PCBs at home, when I need one, for 25 years. I've started with black tar dissolved in petrol and nitric acid, then with permanent markers and iron chloride and now with precoated photoresist boards and sodium persulfate. Next time I will try your method with hydrogen peroxid, citric acid and salt. For single sided boards I attach a thin insolated multi core wire to the other side of the board, with electrical insulation tape. Then I put a thicker insulated single core wire around the board to keep it spaced from tank bottom or walls. I clear the transparent photoresist with acetone, drill the board and apply a thin layer of rosin dissolved in isopropyl alcohol. For double sided boards I use 1mm pad and 0.5mm drill hole for vias. I wrap an polyester sewing thread around the board and knot the thread before adding the insulated single core wire around the board. After etching, clearing the photoresist and drying the rosin, I solder the SMDs then put an 5mm thin wire in corner vias so the board floats at 1mm when layed down. Then I insert wire in each via an cut it, I solder all front ones first, then I flipp the board and solder the other side. Obviously I don't put vias under SMDs. Also all through hole components must have traces ending on bottom layer. I have bought my self an Weller RT1 tip for soldering SMDs and build the 12V soldering station. I also bought an microscope like yours and 3D printed an adapter for 0.5 and 0.75 Barlow lenses. I also tried ink solder mask without good result, I will try your method of developed dry film before applying an dissolved ink. This method is way faster than ordering PCBs (2-3 weeks at jlcpcb), it takes only 1-2 days of work to make and assemble a small board (72x72mm). Skip the dry film method if don't have an industrial laminator, you cannot remove the air bubbles, even after removing all protective films an using baking paper above the film to pass it through the laminator. Just one question: the etching was real time or the film was speed up? For me it usually takes 30min...3h.
I use high concentrations of hydroxide and I warm up the solution. But I don't recommend to do so if you have no understanding about how it works from chemical perspective. Actually this video I made to summarize all my experience in chemical etching. Thank you @Valeriu Ene for interesting comment! Subscribe and I'll try to bring you more interesting video in a week or two!
Wait, 30mins up to 3 hours? To be honest, I'm using sulfuric acid at 50°C to etch my board, but the etching process is done in 2 Minutes and 40 seconds for 70μm copper. I've been doing PCB's at work for one year, with some Semiprofessional machines. And for one PCB I need about 4-6hours, because of the metalplating process.
Hey Bearded engineer’s show I fascinated on you drill machine press Do video on how to press drill press. 💌
Well... Ok. But no idea when
Perfect 🆗🆒😎👍
Awesome 😎👍
Very cool 😎👍
I see you did an excellent job using one material method better than many methods I've seen,is there by any chance this method could be improved I've also noticed that there is no shiny solder mask rather it was a mutt ,I've used a syringe type !!!
If you do some searches, you'll find people that invert their PCB design and just use the laser to burn away the copper so what's left is the traces. I've even seen them burn the holes for PTH assembly. I get it, you need a fume extractor for the copper being burned off, but it eliminates the need to acid etch the board and is superbly faster. What has become popular is using it to create a solder mask so you can chem-etch the board, but it looks like a waste of time unless it's just for hobby builds, and personally, I would rather extract the burned copper fumes into a carbon scrubber than still have to chem-etch after the time already invested in running the laser engraver.