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We may need some clarification on question. In the video we show why not to use a digital gauge and why it is not accurate. When you use a bubble gauge it does require a total of 40 degree sweep. You turn 20 degrees, set the gauge and then go past straight to 20 degrees opposite. Hope that helps. If not give us a call or shoot us a message and we will be glad to help you out.

@RMBRacingInc you show the digital gauge starting point with the wheels being straight. You show the bubble gauge at a 20 degree angle starting point.

@@brianwalck632 Yes. For those that hold to using a digital gauge you would not use the sweep at all. It is a static reading and that is one reason it is not accurate and not recommended. The bubble has to have the sweep in order for it work correctly and give an accurate reading.

@RMBRacingInc I now understand what you are saying. Thank you 👍

@@brianwalck632 Glad to help!

Probably going to need more information to answer this one but we will give it a shot. If you are talking about how to do a sweep and you are working on the driver's side you have to go 20 degrees to the right set the gauge and then sweep back past straight to -20 degrees. Hopefully this helps. If you need additional help let us know. You can call or email anytime.

lol I’m sure they would work but can endorse the method. 😊

Great question. Adjusting ride heights will change your caster and camber. It is best to set all of your ride heights or smash numbers if you are using a smasher and then set your caster and camber. Always go back and check the ride heights make in minor adjustments and then recheck your alignment numbers. Hope that helps!

@@RMBRacingInc how do you distinguish the diff in the set up plate and your tire height will that not change it also. Say if your tire is taller or shorter than your set up plate ??

@@Chase-i1m The most important thing in any setup is consistency and repeatable results. If you always set everything on setup plates then you will have repeatable and consistent results. That said, our plates are engineered so that they are within 1/4" of height accounting for tire circumference. You will find that the LR and RF are almost exact and depending on your setup the LF is often the same or just under. The right rear is where we see 1/8" normally and never over 1/4" difference. 1/4" is not going to have an impact on your alignment. The great thing about any setup plate is the consistency and ability to repeat. Tires are inconsistent at best. Hopefully that answers your question. Let us know if we can be of any further help.

@@RMBRacingInc yes sir thank you for info. I always a have problem just curious about the small details

TIME. Lol We have been so busy that we have not been able to do any videos. We are hoping in the next few months to get back on track. Stay tuned!

In order to gain caster making the adjustment with the lower control arm you would need to move the balljoint towards the front of the car to get more positive and to the back of the car to get more negative caster. Hope that helps.

Good question. I think you are confusing caster with some of the other geometry angles. Try to keep it simple. Think of a "caster" on a buggy or roll cart, as soon as you push it the wheel turns to the back side. Caster on a car does the very same thing. It provides directional stability. The more caster you have the harder the steering will is to turn and the more directional stability you will have. It will naturally want to go straight. Now when we introduce two wheels (front tires) that have different amounts of caster that causes a pull in the direction of the tire with less caster. The reason you see RF tires with so much caster is simply to help make the care turn left. This is also why it is typical to run a very small amount of caster on the LF. It has not been my experience that caster has any effect on a "jacking force" however extreme camber during counter steering can cause a jacking force. I hope this helps clarify it further for you. Thank you for the question.

No you do not need to do any math. You just have to measure and read it accurately.

That is an idea. One reason we are so against the "digital" measurements is how unrepeatable they are. Take your angle gauge and tap it. Most will jump and not read the same number again. If you can find consistency with it then it may work for you.

@RMBRacingInc I have a 4ft level set In a vise. A klien digital protractor. If it turns off or I change the orientation of the tool i zero it on the level before I take a reading. It dose jump if you wack the component your reading off of but it returns to the exact reading and checks zero on the level every time. I do understand what your saying and how using the correct tool gives more accurate setting. But if im using something that is accurate within its self then my settings would be accurate to my tool specifically. Atleast I hope. Also in no way am I professional at alignments

@@codyblack5490 Consistency is the most important. If you do not measure something correctly but you do it consistently the same way and the results are consistent you have half the battle won. If we can help in anyway just let us know.

We were working with DRP on that and to be honest I am not sure where we are in the process. We will look into that. We are definitely doing well we just have way more to do and going on than we have hours in a day. We will get back to doing more videos but it will probably be a little longer before we are able to do more. We really miss helping guys out with them.

Unfortunately it is not accurate or consistent. It is just a fact that you have to do a sweep to accurately measure. Even the best alignment machines have to do a sweep.

It is always tough to look at other options unbiased. From what little I have seen of their product it appears they are taking measurements much like a normal car alignment machine. That is not bad in and of itself but you are relying on the wheel being accurate and that causes me concern in the racing world. I very rarely have seen a racing wheel that is true and in the dirt world most of them are bent after one race. I can speak to what I feel are advantages of our plates. Our plates can be used for way more than just Caster, Camber, and Toe. If someone is using our plates and that is the only benefit they get then we have failed. We increase accuracy by eliminating the wheel and tire for better repeatability and there is no need for turn plates. I will admit I do not know that much about quicktrick. I hope that helps answer your question and if we can be of any further help just let us know.

Us selling out is one thing I do not think you ever have to worry about. lol to answer the website question yes it is down. A couple of years back the site was hacked and they destroyed it beyond use. We have worked on a new site for sometime that will have full shopping cart integration but we made the mistake of the paying the developer ahead of time so now it has been a nightmare getting the site finished. Just this last week were told they only have a few more tests to run and we should be ready to go live. That said we are forwarding everything to our facebook page in the meantime. If you would like to order plates or any other products just give us a call @ 304-252-7223 and we will be glad to take care of you. I am sorry for the inconvenience but we will get our website taken care of soon.

So if that is your Caster numbers you definitely have work to do. Your question depends on the car. but the fact you mention the lower being adjustable I am thinking it may be a late model and if that is the case you can absolutely use the lower to adjust the caster. If it is a street stock and it is out that far you are probably going to need to do some cutting and welding on the upper mount to relocate it where it needs to be and then you can use shims on the upper to fine tune it. I hope that helps. If not give us some more application info and we will try to help again.

it is a custom chassis under a daytona coupe body " going from track to street". The upper control arms do not have threaded rod ends on it for adjustments, but where the upper control arm mounts to the chassis, it has steel 6" cross shaft to mount it. the cross shaft mounts on top of chassis brackets that are slotted to move the a arm in and out for setup. the shim i was referring to above looks like an "anti Dive shim". After watching your video i played around with the adjustments a bit. I loosed both upper A Arm bolts and got the Spec.s a bit better but what i noticed was..... if i adjust the lower control rod, from the lower ball joint to the chassis, it pulls the lower control arm rearward which looks like it can put the lower control arm geometry in bind not being 90* to the chassis. . Caster +2.5, Camber -1.0, and Ill work out toe at some point. it has Coleman spindles, sweet manual steering rack....... @@RMBRacingInc

Is it possible to post a picture or email us a picture? Using the lower strut to affect the caster a work but you do not want to have extreme pull on it or you are correct it can cause binds. I am sure you can adjust the upper where it mounts to the chassis but an image would help us better identify the best way for you to adjust it. If you need to send us an email, send it to support@rmbracing.com.

yeah i can email you, or i could send a photo to your facebook page, so you can view it easy if that would work. Just trying to identify what parts are on it, and how to correctly adjust them. been a can of worms to get sorted out. =) @@RMBRacingInc

Sent you an email. @@robertsamspon4232

When you adjust caster on a stock a frame you have to use shims and you have limited adjustability. To add positive caster you will add shims to space the front of the a frame out therefore using the ball joint toward the rear of the car. It is common for guys in stock type applications to remove the factory mount and relocate it being sure to not leave any evidence that it was moved. Guys have been doing it since the 40's. Hope this helps

Quite the visual. lol

Thanks for sharing!

We are way better a dirt than asphalt.That said, I can tell you that you want to use as little toe as possible to prevent scrubbing. I have seen guys getting this down to 1/32 or less but you have to have good tight steering to do this. I would recommend starting at an 1/8 and work you way down. If you ever have darting or wandering on the straights you need to add toe back in. As far as caster, a good rule of thumb is 1 positive degree on the LF and start with 3 degree on RF and you can add or take away to help the car turn as needed. Hope that helps and maybe some others can chime in for a bit more information for you.

Thanks for the reply. Hell the track I’m at I got the car working the best and very very well I might add is by setting all my toe off the left front and at 1/2” out. This track is like a bigger style paper clip 😂 and there left front way out like that center off seems to really really works. Who knew. But if it works it works right. Caster on LF is just on the neg side of to Tire temps don’t lie

We will have to agree to disagree. There is no misinformation here. We have no gain in lying to people. We have a very expensive laser alignment system in our shop and have also done testing with multiple 40K alignment systems. The digital system is not accurate. That is the misinformation. Though bubble gauges have human error in the equation we have time and again proved that they are accurate to within a 1/4 degree or even closer if you have the ability. I will say that turn plates, marks on the floor, or just plain steel plates with 20 degree marks on them can make it more accurate. Bubble gauges have been around for over 1/2 a century and they work. Thanks for the comment.

We will be sure to make a video in the future for you. Thanks for the feedback.

Currently they are 660 for a set of 4.

If I understand what you are asking correctly, caster should not affect that but camber could cause that.

Thank you. We really want to however we are so covered up right now we can't keep up. We promise we will as soon as we can shake free.

This is a good question and though we have many customers using our plates for asphalt cars we have not had one in our shop to work with ourselves. That said, if you have measurements that you know your car is traveling to when racing at certain places on the track ( typically from data acquisition) you could then either remove your springs or use straps or any device to over come the springs in or to position the car to match those numbers. If you have not worked on a pull down rig before we would recommend it. It will help you see what you're trying to achieve and then you can work to duplicate it at your shop. Depending on where you are located we offer data and pull down services but we can also help point you to someone in your area to work with. Hope this answered the question and if not shout back and we will give it another shot. Thanks.

yep, that always works great, been using that method for a long time.

Hoping to get some new ones through the winter. We have just been so busy haven’t been able to take the time to make them. We will though

Sorry for the late response. For whatever reason we are just now seeing this. Caster does effect camber which is one reason it is best to set caster first but I think you may be trying to describe Ackerman. Not sure if that helps at all or not.

@@RMBRacingInc Ackerman is when one wheel turns faster than another. This happens when u change the length of the steering arm on the knuckle

@@charliesmith7942 Thank you for the clarification. I know that ackerman is when one travels faster however this change often causes a greater camber gain on the RF than the LF. Just trying to clarify your initial comment but we may have just confused it more. Lol. Thank you for the input. In the future I will try to cover each of these separately to help clarify for everyone.

I will try to be of assistance but may need some more specifics. In short, toe will cause drag that scrubs off speed but caster for sure will not and camber should not either. Any split helps the car turn but the more you split the more it turns left on its own. To give you an idea, our cars have so much that if you let go of the wheel even just idling around it will turn left instantly. This also makes loading in the trailer a pain because you are constantly fighting it wanting to turn left. As a general rule you will notice differences in a degree of change but do not be afraid to try large numbers. Experimenting will be your biggest help in finding what works best for your application.

You are correct however it is based on level which is a constant and consistency is everything. Thank you for the input.

We apologize that there isn’t. We have just been swamped and have not been able to take time to make it. By all means give us a call at 304-252-7223 and we will walk you through it.

Appreciate the comments. Some of your observations are accurate but not practical for the average racer as you indicate. We typically do eyeball the angle of the gauge because it is quick and easy and if you vary that by up to 5 degrees either way the resulting value you get is still within less than 1/4 degree off and that is acceptable in most applications. If you wanted to make it more accurate you can use either turn plates or you can take the time to layout your 20 degree sweep on the floor using chalk lines. That said a digital gauge on the upright is still not accurate because you have to have a datum to zero off of and outside of an F1 team you’ll not find that. As mentioned, if a digital gauge could do it accurately John Bean and Hunter alignment systems would use it. We present the most accurate method using the tools available to most racers. Are there imperfections? Yes but we are not racing F1 so we use the tools we have to get the best result we can. Thanks again for your comments and opinion.

@@RMBRacingInc Agreed on those points. Like i said though a great video and a great tutorial

Hi Boris, this is an interesting problem that I have also noticed.It becomes far more problematic in a road race car when the castor settings go above 10 deggrees. By swinging the wheels at only a 15 degree angle ,and using an intercomp electronic castor guage, the laying back of the top ball joint was unbelievable to get to the 10 degree angle that the swinging the wheels required. I then measured the ball joints and drew them out in real size,and then measured the angle from a zero / 180 degree datum line and it was way, way past 10 degrees.!! I think the swining the wheels method is great up to 4 or 5 degrees, but anymore than that requires a machined surface , like a steering arm , or an adaptor plate that is attached at 90 degrees to the upper and lower ball joint line, and using an electronic level guage. The electronic level guage can be zeroed to the ground plane that the suspesion set up is being referennced to. Anyway Boris, thanks for bringing up the same problem that I had when trying to do a set up that required a large castor setting.

We manufacture them.

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