Відео

Thanks for watching!

She didn’t use any kneebars. And several have broken since the FA. EDIT: no knee bars were used when recording this video, which as clearly stated in the description, was from last year.

That’s flat out not true man.

Unless you were there and can prove otherwise, we seem to be at an impasse. Regardless, there were no knee bars edited out. And for further clarity, if you read the description, you will see that this is not footage from the send. It continues to baffle me how people get so upset that Connie is a strong climber, driven, motivated, and most importantly, kind. The same can’t be said for the internet trolls who have to tear her down to try and give themselves some validity. If it bothers you so much, how about you go send it and post a video? I’m sure future climbers will appreciate having alternate beta.

@@BlessUpDiHerbsWhat a douche! Get a life…

Why keep this asshole’s comments? It’s taking away from the great footage and accomplishment. Cancel the assholes! Myself included!

They say it’s a jug haul, but every time I get on it, it feels like the jugs are facing the wrong way!

I’ll look into that!

I have 11ft ceilings in here. Generally, you need 10.5ft (3.2m) minimum to get the full board.

The gate latches already have a little flare at the end to guide them. I suppose I could make them bigger. I haven't switched out the campus board since then, as I have plenty of work to do still on the large rungs. I would worry about affecting the heat treat if I were to bend back the angles. As for the brushing, it's just standard for use. I always start a session by brushing the foot holds. And then I brush all the holds on the problem I'm about to try before attempting. I find this helps with hold recall too. There is always some wear/rubber build up, but it's significantly less than any commercial gym I've ever been to.

@@cabinfeverfighter brushing a climb before starting on it is so obviously a great idea that I'm a little embarrassed I never even considered it.. I pretty much only brush when I start slipping off. Thanks for the tip, I'll go sit in my greasy chalky corner of shame now.

It depends. If it’s an either/or situation, I’d say steeper/Moonboard. The 15 can get boring if that’s the only wall you have. Otherwise, if you have the option for both, 10’ of 15 degree is not bad. I like it for endurance and super tricky movement. Most of my goal routes fall in the gently overhanging realm. If your goal routes are steeper, then there may be a benefit to going steeper.

@@cabinfeverfighter Nice, thanks. I'm planning a 12x12 40 degree across from a different angle 12x12 something, probably 15 like yours. I like long slow traverse warm-ups or workouts sometimes.

That's about the space I have. Originally, the intent was to make sure any swing/dynamic moves from the Moonboard did not result in me hitting the back wall. In hindsight, I probably could have gotten away with 2ft spacing. This would also make transfers between the two walls easier. 3ft/1m actually feels really spread out.

@@cabinfeverfighter Okey, thanks for the answer.

Thanks! It’s been a fun project to get it where I want it.

If it was, it wasn't intentional. The opposing walls minimize the space required for crash pads. I like the two steepness options. I work techy and endurance on the 15 degree. Power and brute strength on the 40.

​@@cabinfeverfighter It's a smart design. What is the length of the 15 in there? Any regrets/improvements you'd like to make?

@@22jayu The 15 degree has a 14" kicker and then 2.75 4x8 panels (11') that fits underneath the ceiling. My old one had 3 4x8s and honestly that was a little too high for the ankles. Both were 16' wide. Improvements will be in the form of shelving at this point. Maybe an improvement on the campus board set up, but I have to think about that one more.

@@cabinfeverfighter Thanks for the replies. I'm almost positive my build will mimic this one, the only questions I haven't settled are specifics about the steep wall angle, and wall widths and heights, but other than that I do think this is the most utilitarian, compact design possible. If you haven't checked out Macleod's wall take a look, its awesome and same design as yours I think everything is just bigger and wider since he built in a pretty large dedicated building...I guess thats what you do when you're a pro. Nice work man!

Thanks! I do, with a few variations but nothing earth shattering. Sometimes I skip the ARC season. I also do one-arm repeaters on a 7/5 interval. Limit bouldering and Power Endurance are still by the book. Prioritization is given to outdoor climbing days.

Ha! Homestar and Strongbad nerds unite! This is now the "old" space. I need to make a video of the new setup, which is slightly smaller but [finally] better insulated.

Straight from the Moon website but long ago. 2016 before the prices skyrocketed!

Maybe some yoga mats?

Or a rug?

Sorry for the super later reply. Old school or university gymnastic mats seem to be the best bet. Call around. By law they have to replace them every so often.

That may be climate dependent. I live in a very dry area. My walls have no sign of humidity damage. I personally like the brighter, natural wood color over a painted surface. Also, the nicer the plywood, the less you'll have to cover up the splinters/imperfections. In every experience I've had with home painted walls, holds always stuck to the paint, peeled the paint, and ripped the thin veneer off of the plywood whenever holds were removed. I don't have that problem with bare wood.

It's definitely worth it!

Nick Emert I think the industry standard is 8’ back from the top of the fall line. However, if the wall is only 8’ tall, it might not be an issue. I’d consider how far your feet will swing out. A thin pad on the back wall would mitigate that.

Thanks! It is only 8’ tall so I’ll just put a pad on my back wall and it will probably be fine.

@@nickemert3510 You show probably build it outside to bypass height limitations My house has 3 stories and one section is a loft with an open empty space from floor to the ceiling so we could install a tall climbing wall that's just short of 10 meters tall. Having a higher limit in height is very good to build strength and practice a certain route or face of a rock you want to conquer. The higher you climb you start getting tired so it's nice to practice that