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Oh, good question...not sure about that.. With all those VOC rules in Cali, you might have to go with Wanda waterborne basecoat.

Glad it helped! Good luck with your restoration! Hopefully I'll be getting started on my '65 2-door wagon project in the near future.

Midwest - Kansas City Area

Correct. No one currently reproduces an A/C cowl shoulder panel so I knew that the A/C portion would need to be fabricated when I purchased it. Nonetheless, AMD and others list the panel as an "A/C" panel so for those less experienced, it's good to point this out. My guess is that the A/C version would be too costly to reproduce. Plus, most restorers are converting to AdvantageAir or similar aftermarket AC systems. Thanks for watching!

For sure. I agree that original or NOS panels are always preferred, but often times they aren't available or even an option so aftermarket sheet metal has to be used. It takes more time/effort, but with the proper fabrication and metal work, aftermarket panels can look just as good. There are plenty of high end restorations out there that look amazing and are 90%+ aftermarket panels. TBH, even the NOS panels that I've used over the years have needed their fair share of help. But, I hear what you're saying.

Thanks For watching!

The upper dash panel itself if welded in so you'll need to cut the spot welds out. At 2:35 of the video, I talk about spot welding the panel in place. When removing the old dash panel, you'll need to remove the spot welds in the windshield channel to get the dash out. This is the only place that is welded. The bottom sides of the dash along the kick panel bolt to the dash brackets (which are welded to the kick panel). Good luck with your build!

You bet!

Glad to help

Thanks for the tip! I might have to give that a try some time.

@@streetclassicFabLab welcome it totally works great I got tired of the weird red looking Chevy orange .

@@streetclassicFabLab I'm also doing another engine job currently with Hi-Tech so I appreciate the tips on your video also 👍

Yes it does!

Yeah, I wish the fitment was better on all this replacement sheet metal, but some fabrication work seems to be par for course in order to get things to fit properly.

We ended up replacing some of the vacuum lines and if I remember correctly the vacuum canister/reservoir was also replaced with a new unit. TBH it was a real pain in the neck to get them synchronized (as close as we could).

Glad it helped

Even Chebies need some luvb!

Glad it helped!

Thanks for watching!

que bom que ajudou! Obrigado por assistir!

@@streetclassicFabLab In Portuguese?! Amazing.

There's a stop at the front of the window frame (2:32) and at the rear on the window guide (2:56). Both are attached with a 7/16 bolt and prevent further upward travel when the stop contacts the door frame. There is a limited adjustment that can be made by moving that stop up or down.

Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!

I know right? Those spot welds can be real tricky to find sometimes! Thanks for watching!

I've seen too many problems with trying to use modern fillers in quarter panel seams, so I turned to the art of lead soldering as an alternative.

I know it sounds counterintuitive, but the tallow doesn't cause any contamination issues. It may surprise you that some of the old timers use bees wax or automatic transmission fluid instead of tallow! It must be a thermal/chemistry thing. All I do after applying the lead is rinse the area with a solution of baking soda to neutralize any acid left by the tinning flux. Then I file/shape and follow up with one more baking soda rinse, W&G remover, and then epoxy primer. I don't see the need for any other file than 8-10tpi. Lead is definitely NOT easier to work with in terms of shaping than body filler, but due to the potential risk of being able to see the seam (mapping) later down the road, lead solder (or a welded patch across the seam) is the better option here (IMO).

Oh yes, the Argent Silver debate is a tricky one. Thanks for watching!

Agreed. Hot rod black or flat black just doesn't look right. The key is that Organsiol has some texture to it which really makes it an attractive finish. I typically refer to the sheen as "Zero" degree. Something between flat and satin.

The '68 Charger is one of my favorite restorations! I love that QQ1 blue!

thanks for watching!

Actually after watching this video I went to go buy one. The only one they had was on display. He started placing it in original containers. He thought the torch could be disconnected and started twisting and twisting as he thought it was supposed to be removable . I knew that could have caused a problem by watching your video. I told him I didn’t want that machine anymore and wanted one never unboxed. So he got me one from one of there other locations. Thanks for the heads up!

Right on! Glad the video helped!

thanks for watching. I'm slowing trying to upload videos of my '67 build so stay tuned!

Thanks! Yeah, I've always had great luck with lead. I know a lot of people have a negative opinion of using lead, so I'm glad to hear you had a good experience too.

That's not a bad thought. Lead could probably be used to create the roof skin/quarter body line, but I chose to use VPA instead. As I mention in the video, VPA is a much better option than fiberglass/all metal. I opted not to use lead for a number of reasons 1) lead is harder to file/sand/shape than VPA, especially on that type of body line 2) managing the heat and melting lead while getting a crisp body line can be difficult 3) because the VPA filler is sitting on top of the lead filler, there's little to no risk of mapping due to different rates of expansion like you'd get if the filler was adjacent to virgin metal. Thanks for the feedback!

thanks for watching!

Just enough heat to get the tinning flux to react with the metal and then to melt the lead. Extreme heat would result in discoloration of the metal and warpage. It’s important to keep the torch moving.

You shouldn't have to remove the window felts, but you do want to be careful not to damage them if you'll be re-using them. Once the lower adjustment stud/screw clears the window felts, the vent window should slide forward and into position with enough room.

I’m doing this on my 67 GTO and learned that I had to remove the upper door molding. It was blocking the track and I couldn’t get the window high enough to slide it out. The outer window felts/fuzzies are attached to it. Also, I needed to remove the inner felts/fuzzies to help remove the vent window. Suffice it to say, having all the trim removed makes things easier. Fantastic videos, by the way. Super helpful!!

Ausley's is one of my preferred suppliers but I haven't been able to find the dash mounting hardware kit through them. If you have a link, I'd be happy to include it.

Glad it was helpful!

Keep checking back for more videos!

Thanks for watching and for the comment!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks for watching!

Many thanks!