Відео

WOW lots of info...! Thanks for the info, especially to replace the "bolts and nuts" with NEW ones. Regarding the "Ball joint top nut", it looks impossible to get a torque wrench in there to properly torque it. Would someone remove the Axle nut and swing the whole assembly out and away? By doing that, the top of the ball joint could be exposed to properly to torque it! Would the Axle nut then need to be replace with a new one once its removed? Too tight of a torque on the Ball joint will cause premature wear and too loose could be dangerous. I prefer NOT to guess.... PS , on the ball joint torque. You tightened it to 52 Ft Lbs then added an angle degree torque does angle degree torque also apply to the top nut too? (( What was the angle degree to turn the nut additionally. The audio on that I wasn't able to hear it well ...thank you . My vehicle is a 2007 E350 4Matic Sport with the same Ball Joint with that " pin "... Thank you, any info or tips, would be most appreciated from anyone. Thank you

Amazing how you can change the control arms on little to no space. How long did it take for you?

Hallo. I have a question. I want to install Amg E55 brakes on my E500 4matic. How can I install them and what should I replace?

What did your further troubleshooting uncover as the culprit?

Thank you so much! I’m beginning my 2097 wagon airmatic rear shock replacement and you have greatly boosted my confidence!

Hi guys! Any idea what is the part number for the bushings themselves?

You have saved my ass. I don’t usually comment but teaching me about the spreader tool all I can say is thank you, you have helped me more than you could imagine

Could you plese provide the link of amazon?

Ugh i put led bulbs and snapped the rear ribbon cable and brike connector now 100 wire and have to take off headliner

Hi @ghdh! Do you install the o-ring, red ring, and the cap with the end of the vacuum line as shown on the video or you install o them seperately? Thanks!

Schleifring defekt

Why didn’t it fit if it did before?

Yeah all 211 4matics/ 4matic from this gen are like this.

That looks so much easier than the drivers side engine mount on an E350 W211.. That was like 45 mins of 1/8-1/4 turns for the top bolt. Passenger side was easy peasy.. Thanks for documenting!

What is the part number for the screws

How many stars?

Thanks man, doing mine tonight

Thanks for the tutorial. Nicely done! I noticed that you have an Android stereo installed too. Please share the contact of the seller (Website or email). Thank you.

You're very right about the left hand upper arm installation design due to that back nut near the SAM. Why didnt they do it like honda or toyota and weld the nut to the frame? That way you only concern yourself with the bolt inside the arm. Another reason why mechanics hate engineers

Thanks for the video here a hint.you dont need the special tool to loose the strud on top. Just spray with oil then give a few bangs with long big screwdriver and hammer.And you dont have to let the air out at the airspring.just use another carjack and support the spring.my.change did cost me 70 bucks and 2 hrs work.

Another really helpful tip i did. I found that putting my jack underneath that hanging radiator support frame piece and gently lifting it upwards just a tad helped give me some clearance in getting out that front swaybar bracket upper bolt. It will flex slightly. Just go easy. Dont want to crack the plastic radiator bottom which rests inside that frame piece.

Where did you purchase the new sway bar from? How much was it? Thanx 😊

Thanks for the video. Where were you able to purchase the screw-on tip for the sealant? Looks like sealant tube doesn't come with it.

I was just wondering if there is a diference between regular w211 wagon shocks and airmatic shocks? Because I have two, one with airmatic and one with only leveling kit but if I would take the wheel off, you would not spot the diference between those two. Both have the same connectors, they both look the same. If you know the answer, I would much appreciate it, thanks

Think its possible to change out the lower control arm strut bushing and the spindle ball joint without removing the entire lower control arm? My strut bushing is in bad shape but my control arm bushings don't look too bad

Is it the same with CLK W209?

Hey do you know who Anderson is Michael Anderson

I was just quoted $1900 to replace those rear struts.

Thanks so much for your comment on the FCP post! I was about to buy the $140 MB sealant applicator after stalling, looking for other solutions. So glad I stumbled upon your comment haha, preparing to pull the M156 out of my ML63 and reseal the bedplate

Hello nice and helpful explanations - really good how-to-do vid. Could you name or even a link or the diagnostic tool software to release the air pressure.

Why the fuck did I not try to put it in a regular caulk gun … thanks !

GREAT VIDEO!! and articulation - unless this doesn't work for you because you live in the RUST BELT. Here's what worked for me and saved TONS of Time. 2 hours TOPS. FIRST off SWAP OUT the 4 REAR SWAY BAR BRACKET mounting bolts with regular head bolts so you can use a box wrench or open end wrench to tighten them down - there is plenty of clearance to tighten them down. Visit your favorite fastener supply store to get the correct thread pitch and length - bring the rear bracket with you. Forget the special tools and tricks - I did this job this past weekend in an hour. YOU NEED TO APPLY SOME BRUTE FORCE using a grinder. You won't be able to get leverage enough to remove these bolts unless they were freshly installed - the steel bolts are rusted into the aluminum mounting brackets - save time and get a grinder. STEP #1 Take the front lower bumper pan plastics off ( #8 nut socket head) revealing the front sway bar brackets and bolts giving you tons of access space. Remove what you can with the allen socket or apply the use of vise grips. you will discover after removing the front mounting bolts either the bracket is totally rotted as the sway bar will just drop revealing the rear bracket face - you can now see the threaded ends of the rear bracket bolts embedded in the rear bracket from the front of the car. STEP #2 Next up grab a grinder and cut the rear bracket free of the rear mounting bolts - cut across the mounting holes revealing the steal bolts and this breaks the casing essentially crumbling the rear aluminum sway bar bracket. AGAIN - this is all done from the front of the car after removing the sway bar and front bracket. Use a spotter to watch your grinder as not to cut into the steel sway bar mount on car, ONLY CUT THE REAR ALUMINUM BRACKET (wear a mask and eye protection.) use a hammer to knock out the grinded and cut pieces of the REAR BRACKET - they will just flake off and reveal the rear sway bar mounting bolts. This sounds crude but this rear aluminum sway bar mount requires this barbaric method to save you time. Step #3 - On re-assembly install all front brackets and bolts on front sway bar first on the ground, tighten then install the rear bolts to the rear last while holding the bar up into position using a helper. ( If you want to use OEM rear mounting bolts that's fine but not much leverage for tightening that's why I switched to regular bolt heads for rear mounting bracket and used a box/open end wrench to tighten down) trust me on this one assemble and align rear bolts into sway bar assembly last then tighten all 4 rear mounts to the car sway bar mounting frame as best you can. NOTE -The angle at which to install the front bolts into the brackets require an angle of approach that could cause you to ruin aluminum threads. So assemble and tighten front brackets on bar first on the shop floor then hold it up to the mounting position on the car and align and loosely thread in the rear bolts to rear bracket, when all 4 are loosely attached - begin to tighten them down drawing the entire assembly into position. YOU WILL NEED TO GRIND Off a very small bump section of the lower front rad mount - to allow clearance of the front top sway bar bracket bolt - This will ease in reassembly and alignment when holding the bar up to car to position to thread in the 4 rear bracket mounting bolts. Good Luck and be safe PLEASE USE SAFETY GLASSES AND DUST MASK - aluminum DUST is NOT GOOD. work in ventilated area and watch for sparks - have water or fire extinguisher near by. Thank me later!!

GOOD job !

It would be good if you atleast gave the size of the tool

thanks for including part numbers. greatly appreciated!

Hello from France , i would like to say you many thanks for your tuto , very good job 🙂 You will help a lot of people with your video !

If I didn't thank you already let me thank you now. I hope you next series will be on M113K engine swap... 😊

Thanks man, I have the same Problem on my E class and I am glad i found a good tutorial on it

My car's nearly 180 degress backlash lol. Is it knackered?

Looks a bit sketchy be careful

Use google. Before using!

That's because you have the set wrong

Very thorough and systematic. Well explained and great camera angles. Really, a great instructional video. You helped me plan for it correctly. Thank you very much for your time and efforts. God bless

Thanks for showing everything BUT what the duck your doing 🐥

Yes. Majority of cars are like that

No lol

What was the name of the tool you used to remove strut

Thank you for hep me!

Was the sway bar making a clunking noise prompting you to change it?

Thx for the good Clip. Where can i order good fitted chrome strips?