Відео

by each of us doing what we can to increase our own food production, and abundance of our area. Plant a couple more fruit trees each year, expand the garden a little each year, naturalize some wild edibles (Jerusalem artichokes, biscuit root, timsula, wapato, wild rice, ect.) in some habitat you have access to...if you do something each season to increase your local abundance, over the course of a few years you will have done a lot! It is a decade long project to start a fully sustainable system...and that's under optimum conditions. You don't have to do everything all at once, but do have to do something to start! You can't solve the problem in its entirety, none of us have that power. But, we can start starting to make our own environments more sustainable!

And there are more nerd jokes in this weeks hatchet handle carving video!

Work holding with odd shapes can be..uh...odd to say the least. For NRB's I clamp a bit of 2x4 in a vice and then clamp the work to the top of the board with some sort of C clamp, I like the ones that squeeze closed with the handle. I also find that as often as not, clamping with body weight or leg pressure is as good as anything; look at how I hold the stone in last weeks square section axe video for an example. Love the shinto rasp, use it a ton. I also love the draw knife in any case where I can vice clamp the work, it is the fastest and most accurate tool for me--but anything that can be done with a draw knife can be done with a hatchet and vice-a-verse-a. Next week's video is making a hatchet handle from scratch, btw!

@@oldwaysrisingfarm Unfortunately this confirms that I'll probably need to make room for a shave horse in my life.

@@carbon5261 I want to build one some time soon--as soon as possible! It's just one of those projects that keeps getting pushed back, lol.

Welcome!

Well, it's not that they help the allum penetrate--allum forms small amounts of sulfuric acid when mixed in water, which is a necessary part of the process because it breaks down the bonds between the protein fibers and glycoproteins in the skin which allows the leather to soften. But over time if you don't get 100% of the excess allum is washed out of the skin (and you never do) it can build up excess acidity and degrade the leather; which ultimately is why allum and chrome tanned leathers degrade and crack sooner than vegetable tanned leathers. What both the allum and salt do is to help buffer the acidity, thus preserving the leather over time. So the answer to your question is both yes and no--yes they do the same thing, but no because it's a different thing. Hope this helps!

So glad to help! I had the exact same problem when I decided to learn how to make one several years back--which is a lot of why I made this series in the first place. Many more resources in the Patreon site!

Did find this thriugh trial and error or some resources?​@@oldwaysrisingfarm

Glad to help!

The cutting to nothing strategy works well for deciduous shrubs, but does not work well or at all for evergreens because they will usually die if there is literally 0 green left on the tree.

Sort of...you need green on any branch that you want to keep. So, with a big job like--before hacking around with a chain saw--what you want to do is slowly take a hand pruners and hand saw to it and remove all of the dead wood, from small to big. Then, after doing this you will be able to see what branches have living needles and which do not. Once you can see what you are working with thin out the living branches enough that light can get all the way in to the trunk, wait a couple years for all of that to turn green THEN you can get out the chain saw and do major removals with good growing branches to cut back to. If you just go hacking around with a power saw you will miss-judge what is alive and dead and end up killing the bush, you have to take your time with hand tools and pick it apart in a controlled fashion so you can see what is going on inside the plant! There are no shortcuts with this, it takes some time. good luck!

Well, in any case of seed like that I would say plant it, it might not grow and you can't know that...but if you throw it out then you have generated the unwanted answer yourself! One thing I will say about commercial apples is that the fertilization is often poor, because the orchards want all one kind of fruit, and only add in barely enough of a pollonizer variety to get basic production--they care about selling apples not the germination percentage of the seeds within them. But again, plant them otherwise you already know the answer. Not looking at the fruit, I can't speak to edibility.

@oldwaysrisingfarm ok. Thank you!

Thank you for the kind words!

@@mz.amazing Good point. I realized after editing that I missed that but had no time to make another video. With all trees there is a range, and with apples it is 5 to 10 years, that time interval will catch 90 percent of the population with a small minority either earlier or later. The same intervals for grafting is 3 to 5 years, so while it takes a little longer from seed the difference is not as large as most people fear.

​@oldwaysrisingfarm I agree. There is a lot of fear about growing from seed. I am willing to wait. I'm growing my favorite Asian Pears from seed. I was secretly thinking, what if they never produce. My love for them exceed that fear😂. Thanks to you, I'll be growing apples from seed too. Your point that drove it home for me was that in a room full of humans, you can spot the family members. 😅 Awesome video!

@mz.amazing Good stuff! The pears will behave about like the apples, but you might have slightly lower germination since pear nectar is less attractive to bees than apples and thus pollination can be a bit more spotty. Did a video this spring on fruit tree pollination!

@@oldwaysrisingfarm I'll search for it and watch.

I am so happy it helped!

@@TimJameson-jg8sl So glad it was useful!

Using metal is an interesting thought, but the thing to keep in mind is that the energy for a long flight has to come from somebodies arm...and there is only so much "umph" there. So, while in a very literal sense more density = higher ballistic coefficient, there is a point of diminishing return and a point where it just gets silly...you know, we don't hunt deer with anti-tank sabots either, lol. The specific gravity of bone/horn/ivory is in the neighborhood of 2, aluminum is 2.7, iron is 7.9, copper is 8.9 and lead is 11.3. So, aluminum could be interesting...but much past that is probably going to be mostly a waste of time. The African item you are discussing is the "mambele" or "hunga munga", it is more an implement of war than hunting, so won't be covered on this channel. While thrown, it is not know for long distance...to much weight to really perform.

In my mind's eye, I'm picturing these bronze boomerangs being a similar weight to any other one, and I know that means it might displace less than 30mL of water. I know it would be worse for hunting having less of a path width, but I intend to throw at wooden targets for accuracy, just like a tomahawk.

@@willrichter4041 Your mind's eye is working well...but make sure to check in with your mind's scale! :-)

Glad it helped! If tallow is your goal, ask a butcher for the kidney fat from a cow. There is about 20lbs on each kidney and it is almost always thrown away. Last time I rendered for soap making I think I got about 10 gallons of finished rendered tallow from one cow worth of kidney fat!

@@oldwaysrisingfarm that is astounding! However, I also want neatsfoot oil, so I would have to do two different processes then, right?

@@simonsalazar9336 Sorts yes, sorta no. Rendering kidney tallow is a lot easier than bones. Chop, put in pot, heat slowly until rendering starts, raise heat a little and cook until the fat globs are reduced to cracklings. Don't over-cook and burn the cracklings or it will add a toasted flavor. This is irrelevant for making soap (my use, I don't like cooking with tallow personally--its a sensory issue with having the stuff stuck to my mouth) but does matter if you are cooking. Once done you can just dump the fat through a strainer and let it cool, done! Do be careful dumping into a plastic bucket, it may soften due to heat depending on the plastic used.

Well, these 2 both did well this summer; now, they can still abort if winter is to hard so while early indicators are all good it is too early to declare definitive success. You absolutely can graft onto your suckers, and you can try and take some as root cutting to use for future grafting, just like I did with apples in this weeks new video!

Glad it helped! The recycled steals that I like/dislike might help you as well!

Thank you for the kind words!

Thank you so much for the kind words!

Just uploaded it a couple hours ago, editing it for next Monday!

There are several up on the patreon! And yes, I have about 3 years of work in the ones that are finished, much more needed in the ones not yet done.

@@oldwaysrisingfarm A few hours ago, I became a Patron and downloaded the guide about leather making and leather work. I am a shoemaker (or rather: in the process of becoming one) and need to know as much as possible about leather. So far, your UA-cam series about leather making as well as this download have been most helpful in that respect.

Very nice, and thank you! I'm glad it is helping! I also want to learn shoe making at some point, but have not had a chance to study it yet.

@@gijsbo2000 Yes! Its an old time name for heavy and light oils mixed together.

@@oldwaysrisingfarm Thanks!

@@carbon5261 not with a hammer, that would shred the grain. But, if you wanted to experiment with the tip of a drill bit it might be interesting!

That's wonderful, so glad you are having success! and thank you for the suggestion, it makes a lot of sense. I have not actually tried that particular modification, but when I was learning I kept trying to get crooks that were to wide to work by narrowing them, lol. Thanks for the though I will keep it in mind, and thank you for the kind words!

Most welcome!

Glad to help!

Greetings! Well, 2 problems: 1--I can't legally send seeds to another country and 2--even if that was not true my osage won't grow well for you in the tropics. So, I have an alternative suggestion--try and find the related species Maclura brasiliensis, which is from south america and should be a lot easier for you to get and grow. Unless you want it for the wood you could also think about switching to the related and similar looking breadfruit, which as an edible fruit and bark that can be pounded into a form of cloth called tapa or kapa. Just some thoughts, good luck in your search!

Thanks so much for the kind words! First I need to say that while dry scraping is a technique I want to experiment with in the future, it is not one I have tried at this point--SO, please take my thoughts about it with an appropriately large grain of salt. Now, if you look at the material culture associated with the practice the scrapers are of a completely different type than what I am using here, being more like an adze having an actually sharp blade of hard material lashed to a 90-degree naturally bent branch. (There is information related to this in the historic texts available on our Patreon!) Pre-contact these were typically stone but could be copper, post-contact a lot of cast iron pans were broken up to make scraper blades. Dry scrape has to be done under tension, so you have to stretch the hide on a frame before it dries down. As I understand it the big challenge is knowing how deep to go; and making sure that you don't accidentally cut the hide. I have heard that there is a color change between the grain and dermis, but I don't know how marked it actually is. Where I want to try this is on thicker hides that don't wet scrape well, and to curry down thick hides like cattle, buffalo or beaver for making robes--but like I said, I have not tried yet. Related but different, in European cultures hides were thinned with sharp knives similar looking to the fleshing knife I use (but VERY different in edge characteristics) in a process called currying; so this is also a set of techniques you could look up. There is a book series I like called "Primitive Technology: A Book of Earth Skills" that has some descriptions of all the scraping methods, and the already mentioned info on tool archaeology in our Patreon (All the digital resources in the store are free to all patrons). Good luck in your journey!

@@framusburns-hagstromiii808 I hear you. These small things are difficult to show on film. If i zoom too much then all you see is my hand blocking things, so we try and hit a compromise. Come to an in-person demo some time, mine or somebody near you!

Glad to hear it, and glad I could help! There is a lot more info on the subject on the patreon side as well!

Lol, yes, yes it should!

Glad you liked it! I was hoping you would spot it!

Glad it helped!

Glad to help!

Good info, and thank you!

A test cross line is a seperate line specifically bread to be homozygous for the recessive trait you are testing for! Once you are finished test crossing, the line is food, it is not a long lasting part of the breeding program, because once you have eliminated the recessive trait with test crossing it won't come back on its own.