Відео

Future video, this batch needs restoration and sharpening first, which will also be a future video! I do use the one of that has been sharpened in the duck carving video series :-)

@@oldwaysrisingfarm There are a few saw filing videos on YT, some better than others. Warren Miller has the master class. BTW, consider filming outdoors as your inside videos are a bit dark.

@@navinhookoom3584 It's not a great method for buttons, porteballas or other soil growers. Those need full lab methods, this is for wood rot fungi only.

@@oldwaysrisingfarm Thanks a lot for your quick response!

@@PrimitiveArchery6 glad it helped, good luck on your project!

@@liesecarey9494 Well, for simple mendelian traits a test cross is a cross between an individual with unknown genotype and one with a known homozygous recessive condition. If the offspring are approximately 50/50 dominant VS. Recessive phenotypes then the unknown parent is recessive, if the unknown parent is homozygous then all offspring will be as well. Then, you use thus information to decide weather or not to cull the parent being tested; all test cross offspring are typically considered culls.

@@liesecarey9494 Now, knowing of a trait is simple mendelian. The best case senerio is to consult the literature and get an answer. If the trait of interest is not in the literature think it through a little...traits that fall on a sliding scale like size and growth rate are usually pollygenetic, truth that are "either or" are typically mendelian. But these are guidelines with exceptions and you may just have to experiment.

Yes, do it, and use the birch! Paper birch has a published 12% moisture content specific gravity of 0.61, which is only slightly lighter than the ash (which is 0.67) I used to make the red stick in this series, it will work well and should easily make a 60-80 yard stick with the proper tuning and fluting shown in the last 2 vids. of the series! Just don't compare yourself to somebody using polycarbonate or heavier-than-water acacia to make 120yd sticks. But, real talk, would you actually try to hit a little bitty grouse at that range any how? Make your best stick for your best hunt, respect the lives of the animals sacrificed for your food, ask your permissions, give thanks, and give something back in the process. Best wishes, and let me know how it goes! PS--I did not mention it in the series, but I recall reading accounts (a long time ago) of Hudson Bay Company agents observing crooked sticks being thrown at long range into flocks of waterfowl--so there precedent for this technology in your forest type...somewhere...but nothing better than paper birch exists in the Taiga forest so it has to work. I did not mention it because I don't remember and can't re-find the source of that tidbit...but I wish I could. The historic info I have been able to collect is collated in the "Scholars Notebooks" series of resources on our patreon. Here is the wood database entry on paper birch: www.wood-database.com/paper-birch/

Depends--for rendering neatsfoot from the bone ends yes, but I never boil any bone piece I intend to carve, it weakens them. Those I scrape clean and render the fats separately.

Thank you sir for your prompt reply. ​@@oldwaysrisingfarm

Glad I could help!

Glad to help, and good luck!

Glad to help, and thank you for sharing that prayer, blessings to you as well!

@@CaseyBliss-fn2wl both!

@@oldwaysrisingfarm thank you! I posted that question before I finished the video lol

Glad to be of assistance, friend from across the pond!

Thanks! Glad to help!

The sun won't hurt it, but keeping bugs out with some kind of cover is a good idea in summer months. As to chemistry, the warmer the weather the faster the lime works on the hair and the faster the hide will spoil if you leave it in to long (but, even mid summer I have kept hides in lime for a month...but longer than that I have had them spoil in hot weather). Temperature won't have a significant impact on how long it takes soap to degrees a hide. Does that answer your question?

@@oldwaysrisingfarm yep! For the most part. I want the hair to stay on. I used a gallon of vinegar as you did. I may however have to do the lime treatment on a different hide as I think I have a bacterial attack on it and the hair is pulling out of the hide . I have not treated the hide in anything yet.

@@CaseyBliss-fn2wl Could be bacteria or the grease itself. If you are using alum to set the hair, temperature and time of year will have little impact.

So after the degreasing soak. I will membrane as you suggest in the video. I was planning on tanning in alum,washing soda and salt solution according to a book I'm following (tan your hide, author: Phyllis Hobson) Do you recommend any other step after the final membrane step?

Yes, as close relatives to animals the mushrooms use oxygen and produce carbon dioxide just like we do. The bags are very, very short term, and I won't leave them in there without opening long enough to go completely anaerobic and for a full grow-out, they need air circulation. If you want to see how I use canning jars in a way that allows air circulation but prevents dust getting in for a large grow-out, watch the vid on producing plug spawn. Thanks for watching and asking!

Its true! Failing at things is how we really learn, and we need out failures.

Sure, the "about" tab went away in a recent UA-cam "style update" now you look just under the header on the channel homepage and click the bolded "...more" to get the about info. It is "improved" because it is now more confusing...sarcasm intended, lol. If that does not work the channel gmail address is the channel name with no caps or spaces; if I type it here as an email address it will attract spam bots which is why it hides behind a captcha in the about info.

That's really creative! Did it work to promote internal growth?

Variable, you can take the fully colonised cardboard and add it directly to a growing medium; you can also use it to make dowel spawn (did this on the channel in another video) or sawdust spawn for inoculating logs later on.

Not really, bucking is the mechanical removal of the grain layer before tanning. Nubuck is a chemical tan followed by sanding off the grain layer after the fact. True traditional buckskin is brain tanned, which requires removal of the grain layer before tanning and is quite different from chemical tannage in many important ways, you can't just sub in the imitation tans and use them in the same way.

@@oldwaysrisingfarm thanks so much for in-depth reply and video:)

Generic grocery store vegetable oil, corn, canola, or a mix of the two. It all works!

Lol, yes. Or, is the rooster the real "host" and I'm just along for the ride! lol.

Well, eventually (key word) you can cut it back that far, it steps, and with time. You can't cut lower than the lowest significant (i.e. not just a single bud or weak little branchlet) green branch; but you can coax the plant to make more branches lower down. Start by pruning out the dead material, which will give you a clear view of what you are doing. Then, thin a third to half of that shield of green so light can get through to the interior. You won't be cutting it back at this stage, just thinning it out to allow light in. Now, you wait a year!!!! the plant will throw out a bunch of green growth, and next year you can thin it out more. In the third year some of those new shoots will be strong enough to stand on their own and you can cut it back. Distance from foundation...that's more of a construction question than a plant health question and I am not a contractor. You can use this technique to prune it according to your contractor's recommendations.

Better to prune in mid June when the new growth start. And boxing them is ugly. And leave the bottom half fatter. Than the top.

Well, there are a couple different answers to your question...and the one that actually applies depends on the nature of the original tree. Apples produce coppice regrowth like you are describing easily, and also root sucker (and thus can be propagated by root cuttings, just an aside). But, this is the roots doing the work, not the old top. This is where you have to know something about the history of your tree. If it was seed or cutting grown (and many, many old orchards were seed grown--plant seedlings way to close together, waite 5 years, cut down the ones you don't like and nurture the ones you do!) then these shoots will re-grow your tree just the way it was! The best thing to do is let them all bee until they are head high, then you can select the one or two that you like the best and cut the rest out. I would recommend against doing that selection to early because they are easily damaged and it would be to bad to trim down to one and then have a naughty deer come along and eat it the next day! (and it will, they know! lol) Now, if it was a grafted tree everything I just said still holds, but--and this is a big but--what will re-grow is the rootstock, NOT the scion variety grafted to it! Now, all is still not lost, you can take those suckers and graft on top of them with a new scion. Trees re-grafted this way usually grow a lot faster than more traditional grafts onto purchased root stock. I demonstrated exactly this procedure earlier this spring with a damaged pear tree: (ua-cam.com/video/aMkQKiUDegc/v-deo.html) If you go the grafting rought keep and graft several, not all grafts take. As a point of reference, one of the grafts I did in the video took immediately and 2 months later has about 4 inches of new growth on it, the other is not dead yet but not growing, so it may not make it, time will tell! Overall, the key is to know if your tree was grafted or seed grown. This is easy on young trees, look for the swollen graft union. But on old trees it can be overgrown or burried. You can also make some inferences from location, if it was a planted orchard the chances of it being grafted go up (but as already mentioned some old orchards were seeded) and if it is a random tree in a random field row that it is likely a deer or bear poo-carried seed was involved in its planting (but of course some farmer could have still planted a graft at his favorite picnic spot). Age can be a hint to, pretty much all apples planted since comercial nurseries became big in the interwar era are grafted. Sorry some of this is a little bit non-committal, but I do hope it helps!

@@oldwaysrisingfarm Thanks so much! I didn't expect to get an answer to something on UA-cam. Thanks for this helpful advice. I bet my tree is a graph, an ornamental apple, but it might be fun to see what I get as it grows back. I am glad I found your channel. You do a great job of explaining not only what to do but why it works.

@@beckye8932 Sure, it does sound grafted. Most root stocks are crosses between edible apples (mostly in the "pie apple" category) and various crab apples to make something of a particular size, but all apples have nice flowers, and you might enjoy the fruits as a bonus! Don't ever let anybody tell you what you "have to do" with a situation like this, you have options and the best option is the one that makes you happy!

Well, it is a little bit allelopathic, but not nearly as bad as walnut. That being said anything which casts dense shade will make a dead spot, even if it is small and local.

@@oldwaysrisingfarm I am doin the question because frequently I see Yews, not doing well when the ground is covered in Ivy, saying this, what the best way to control invasive Ivy

@@Nutty_Professor Well, I don't have experience with that aspect of things, it is not a problem in my area. I do know it is hard to control, perhaps contact you local agg extension office?

It's in, but no results yet! These things take a couple years to fruit, so while I know this is not the satisfying answer you were hoping for it is an honest one--the update vid on these will probably be a 2025 or 2026 project. Some things just take time, and you can't rush biology. Now, my advice is to get all that scrap and go for it! You will learn something! If it is ever a total fail (in the asteroid hits the raft sorta way, lol) I will at least put something in the description about it. But when it fruits, I will for sure do a vid on it!

Thanks for the kind comment!

So glad to help! Good luck with your project and have a blessed day!

Glad to be a help! We cover all the steps in the series!

You can, it will be a little harder on the bushes than some other times of year though; the best time is winter dormancy, second best times are early spring before new growth starts and late summer after it is hardened off. If you prune while there is active growth it does sap some energy from the plant.

Sure, but that is basically making a new saw. You can also cut up the plate and make completely new saws. But, my intent here is to talk about basic day-to-day maintenance of an existing saw and tooth pattern and completely re-gulleting a worn out tooth is outside that scope.

You are most welcome!

What tanning method are you working with?

You are most welcome!

I don't have the software for that or a computer that is fast enough to run it if iI did.