Відео

That's great to hear! Stay Safe!

Thank you for the positive feedback. I definitely had to do some deep digging to figure out this was the proper way to wire it as well. Many techs assume to put the striped wire on CPT and the red wire on common, which ultimately does nothing.

Quite the opposite per instructions provided by Intermatic. Here you are! djuly1j3idynn.cloudfront.net/userfiles/images/inriver/original/157569_ag3000%20instructions.pdf

The Mars 83905 instruction actually tells you for best performance ensure the conductor length is as short as possible. You can literally Google "Installation Instructions Model 83905". At the bottom, it says that. It's a different model than what he installed but it shouldn't be any different. Edit: I Googled the exact model that he installed. It says the same thing. "Ensure conductor lengths are as short and straight as possible for best performance. Do not coil excessive wire."

Best of luck! There's lots of online training but also many companies out there that will take you under their wing and teach you the right way.

@@HVAC_Academy I’ll probably try to go commercial after a year or so of experience.y friend that’s a chiller tech said he didn’t start taking his own service calls til a couple years in. Those are more complicated systems I’d imagine. But even with the split systems, I feel there’s so much technical information. I’ve been getting bogged down with the different phases and such. Shoot a capacitor is so much more complicated than just simply checking uf, I’ve discovered. I was told it just gives extra torque on startup but it seems it’s more so to create another magnetic field at a different timing then what you get from your start and common winding - also why do they call them start and common if they both shift between positive and negative at 180 phase shift? I guess the point is that it’s a lot

I appreciate the kind words. There's a lot of great info out there, just need to dive into it.

Best of luck to you!

@@HVAC_Academy wasn’t to bad just had to home owner watching me the whole time 🤦🏿‍♂️ and talking but other than that it was pretty smooth

@@HVAC_Academy thank you

Thank you for the positive feedback! Per the instructions from Intermatic, you are exactly correct, the surge protector should be installed on the line side and not load side. I find this to be safest because I want the surge to be stopped as far away from the unit as possible. There may be instances where you must mount it on the load side, and it could still work, but I would avoid it at all costs.

Thank you Doug! I love the idea of mounting it to plywood and using tape to block all of the airflow, that is definitely a quality install.

For starters surge protection would be huge, this will protect the system in the event a surge does hit. The next thing I would invest in is something called a SureSwitch. A SureSwitch replaces a contactor in your condenser and has a delay and brownout protection built into it. A brownout is what you're currently experiencing with the dip in power. This should shut the unit down temporarily when there is a fluctuation in voltage.

It does not, there should be one on the condenser and one on the furnace/air handler.

The hope with those is just a lack of training and not laziness

For 240v you’re suppose to take each line wire from the surge protector to each line side of the disconnect. That’s how they show it on the instructions. For 120v yes this is how you want to do it.

Just like a traditional capacitor, I'm taking my needle nose and touch two of the terminals together. I've honestly only had a true discharge once or twice but always good practice.

Nope, whole home surge protector would have you covered.

I always try to avoid replacing the entire coil box by getting the same exact coil ordered. I personally have never done install so it would take me significantly longer to do that. The coil will just pop right out and in if it's the same one.

@@HVAC_Academy but sometimes its unavoidable right? I had a family that wanted to do payments through HVAC DIRECT and all they had were the whole cases for a r410a 4 ton. It was a lot of work. More than i felt was necessary. Might be a silly question, but are you just neasuring out the indoor coil and finding a similar one?

@@erickbravo5800 very very rarely is it unavoidable. Technically that would work as long as the tonnage and refrigerant type is correct but we just take the model and serial number and find the coil.

kind of funny. sure enough, this morning I went to assist a technician with an evaporator coil that did not fit in the old box and was too tall. Instead of taking a significant amount of more time all we did was cut open the supply plenum a bit to slide the coil in, then seal the plenum back up.

@HVAC_Academy Ahh, nice. Yeah, I didn't have that luxury last weekend, hah. I'll just try to find a coil for the next one. Most of my requests are r22 to 410 converstions. Hopefully, that doesn't make finding the same size coil more difficult.

Thank you for the positive feedback!

It’s called noalox. Used in a wire nut for two dissimilar metals to prevent oxidizing.

Not true read the instructors

There is not nearly enough room in a disconnect to not trim the wires.

Hi Gary, I use the excess wire from the surge protector as my pigtail to go into the disconnect lugs. Definitely do want to avoid double lugging.

Split bolt with rubber tape or more commonly Polaris lugs would be used for a wire of that gauge. You'll need #6 copper or #4 aluminum.

​@@HVAC_AcademyI thought we weren't supposed to shorten the factory wires?

The instructions tell you to shorten the wires

@@HVAC_Academy If you have a 60 amp circuit with 6 gauge wire, the pigtail has to be 6 gauge since the full current of the load will go through that pigtail. My surge protector uses 12 gauge wire which I'm sure is fine for the surge suppressor itself, but way too small for the pigtail.

The surge suppressor is a shunt. When the voltage rises above a certain value, then power flows through the surge suppressor in parallel with the load. The idea is that, for a short period of time, more current flows through the shunt (surge suppressor) to ground due to its lower resistance. If a sufficient amount of power (usually expressed in joules) flows through the suppressor, it is destroyed. The surge suppressor is analogous to a fuse, in that it is a lower cost component that is sacrificed to protect a higher cost component.

Shunt is good, He was thinking of a fuse​@@nikwax

@@nikwax Thanks Nik. I was wondering the same thing. I bought five of these for our Mini-Splits down here in Brasil. We do not have 2 Pole breakers. And the area we live in is all 220v at the outlets. So one 20Amp breaker in the panel and off the line goes to the unit. No disconnects. So, perhaps you can answer this. Can I pigtail the two blacks to the line side and tie the neutral in with the N line. I think yes, but....

The price is likely justified due to warranties the company provides and guarantee that if anything were to happen during installation they cover it as dealing with 120v can be dangerous even if it is a couple of connections. The purifier will be powered 24/7 but you will only receive a benefit from it if air is moving. It’s recommended to keep your fan in the “On” setting to circulate air 24/7 to keep the air as clean as possible. Thanks for watching!

we've all done the trying to take it out to the curb and using our boots on the pipe wrench, never really works out

Do yu do house visits

Thank you Mohamed!

Exactly right. A closed pressure switch will have 0v across the switch due to there being no potential difference between the two sides of the switch. You would still have 24v from each side of the switch to ground though.

@@HVAC_Academy This meter test of a switch confused me also. (not an electrician here). So, if a switch is closed, which means voltage is going thru the switch to a load or another switch, then the multimeter will read 0v across the switch (that is, 0v when meter probes are placed on the two terminals of the switch)? And that is because there is 24v at both terminals, and the meter reads it as 24v -24v = 0v? And then, the meter will show 24v (with the pressure switch) if the switch is open because the voltage is only 24v at one switch terminal, and not the 2nd terminal, and the meter is reading the difference (potential difference) of 24 v on the input terminal and 0v on the output terminal? 24v - 0v = 24v?

So if what I just typed above about a switch is correct, and I tested a LIMIT switch, and it showed 0v - that means the LIMIT was closed, and the voltage went further down the circuit, to the GAS VALVE, and then to the THERMOSTAT, and then back down from the tstat (if itsat was closed) - to the gas valve's main solenoid - to cause main burner to ignite?

@@m.n.3490 You have the concept correct. They key here is that "potential difference" if there is no difference in voltage it will not show on the meter. This is why it's important to check across the switch as well as from one leg of the switch to ground.

@@m.n.3490 In a nutshell yes. Some systems are wired different but yes, if you have an open switch (limit switch or pressure switch) it stops that voltage form getting back to the circuit board and the system will not run.

that contactor has definitely saved me a few times.

@@HVAC_Academy Ye i checked out a few of ur other videos too they help a lot. I'm a newer tech so i have a giant list of tips and things to help me.

This is a one time use surge protector. Unfortunately there is no resetting it.

Do you need a separate disconnect for this disconnect if you have one on the house already?

@@nickk05281982 No

Haha, I try to stay away from the caveman ways.

Does the instructions say to run directly into the lugs with the shortest amount of wire.

We provide a 5 year warranty so all good here. Thank you for the feedback!

Had me confused too

Read the installed instructions it tells you

@@kennycardwell726 - I was an industrial electrician for 4 years in a 100,000 sq ft stamping plant - I do not need to "Read the installed instructions" - my question was rhetorical (look it up).

Just depends on the company truly. I would expect a few hundred at least based on time, labor and warranties.

quietcoolsystems.com/attic-fan/smart-gable-attic-fans/

it does, most of the venting comes from the roof or the opposite gable though.

www.supplyhouse.com/DiversiTech-623-008-Blue-Winged-Wire-Connectors-Size-88-Pack-of-50?Shopping_tm&Shopping_TM_New_users&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuZGnBhD1ARIsACxbAVjdKBMHgRhpjVMzCaOnur6_SGbFHI1P7VnyjJkPqJXG49mZVTdBK40aAorPEALw_wcB the Noalox is just one type

​@@HVAC_Academy are those a cu/al wire nut or cu/cu does it matter on that surge protector wire?

Do not install on top of the box where water will get in. Install on the side

Looks confusing but nothing too crazy. Basically just splitting the power wire.

@@HVAC_Academycould you explain that a bit more in depth please.

@@kevinstfort instead of the R (24v power wire) leading straight to the thermostat it first has to flow through a float switch then to the thermostat. Meaning if the float switch were to trip, as it should if there’s a water build up, then the 24v power stops at the float switch and does not make it back to the thermostat. This will make the unit shut off and not cause water damage.

@@HVAC_Academy thank you.

This thing has been great for me. I did tests with it running vs not running all day and watching the attic temps, it definitely works. This is a great inexpensive option if you can’t or don’t want to add insulation.

@@HVAC_Academy I appreciate the update. Does the app have an option to set it to come on at a specific time of the day like 6 am and run for an hour of some amount of time? And last question I was wondering... Any thought to place an intake fan on one end of attic and then an exhaust fan at the other end? So it sucks cooler air in early morning or late evening? Does that make sense.... ? Similar to the thought process of a whole house fan.... ?

I don't believe the app has that option. I'm pretty sure it is based on either temperature or you can set it on a timer meaning to start running at the moment for whatever extended amount of time you'd like. The two fans wouldn't be a bad idea at all for a personal home diy deal but could get pretty costly if doing it for a customer. @andersonjimmy1691

Except when you only pay for heat and it costs you money 24/7 during all winters. Installing insulation is as easier than farting.