Відео

If there is not damage or they are warped somehow you do not need to go all in. Some light sanding with fine grit paper usually is enough. On the machine i used 800 and finished with 2000. Slipped the first 100km or so when i pushed it hard but now it settled and works as intended. Glad the video was help to someone.

@@saab900turbo9 - just following up: I ended up using some 240 grit finishing paper. I was able to get the surface cleaned of any oil staining (original failure was a blown oil seal) and then put a nice swirl pattern on the face to provide some “tooth” for the new clutch disk to break in on, similar to the criss hatching needed to break in piston rings. It will be a while before I finish the job as I’m waiting now for some special, very thick moly paste to lube the required areas, but not migrate to the friction areas of the clutch. For what it’s worth: I was always a big SAAB fan. I have owned a half dozen through the years, and they all lasted very well, including the post GM influence models. It is such a shame what GM did to our friends in Trollhatten. They were such great running cars. And their ideas of small displacement, low compression engines coupled with turbochargers has become SOP at many manufacturers today, but was under-appreciated at the time.

@@1wheeldrive751 Great job! I am a swede myself and its is kind of sad that most of our companies is either dead or sold out one way or the other. I have one iconic saab and an iconic volvo that will last me a long time, specially the volvo those engines are almost immortal(B230 engine). Volvo is still alive but own by a china company so spare parts is no problem at all, the saab on the other hand is getting harder to get parts to by the day.

@@droit2411 always unplug the battery when working on the car. Negative is safe and decrease the risk of shorts. The car computer can get damaged if you accedently short something out or just detects that you unplug things and give errors when starting up again. With no power those risks gets eliminated.

@@saab900turbo9great. Another thing: what's the torque for the plugs? How many nm?

@@droit2411 i used 25nm.

@@saab900turbo9thank you

@@droit2411 no problem, hope it worked well as it did for me.

@@ploffekid bra juh

No i did not do that, but i will do it after everything i change from now on. Did not know that this old system saved things apart from a few fault codes at best.

@@saab900turbo9 most obd1 cars need to reset when changing a part etc. Try new one. Disconnect battery for at least 10-15min for current to draw from system. Start with the car from cold and let it get to operating temperature without touching the gas pedal. If it stalls on you, you might have a problem elsewhere. If not, turn the car off. Start it back up and go for a drive. Ecu will relearn Throttle position sensor Water temp sensor. Sometimes there are 2 of them. One for ecu and one for the cluster. Oxygen sensor. It is always good practice to measure resistance (ohm's) between new and old sensors. This will confirm if old sensor is faulty or not. The joys of owning obd1 vehicles.

@@HuckThis1971 It stalled again with old things too so i disconnected battery over night an in the morning it worked fine. I changed parts due to idle malfunction but this confirms there is some problem with the ECU, had it twice now, last time was 3 months ago. If i happens more i might have a real problem on my hand. In winter i might open up ECU and watch for moist damage. The old car alarm failed due to moist.

@@lucaspamplonica when cold the engine runs with high idle(1500-2000rpm) when it starts to get warm its just changes its mind and idle becomes zero instead. No fault codes from the system either. Vacuum lines are all good.

@@HuckThis1971 interesting. A special year? I got the Lucas system.

@@saab900turbo9 If I am not mistaken, people were using the one from Saab on their audis. So I believe they are compatible.

@@HuckThis1971 Maybe som are at least but i am unsure if audi used lucas control system?

@@saab900turbo9 would have to check Bosch part #'s to see if they are similar.

@@HuckThis1971 This do not use bosch it uses lucas, the older saab used bosch but the later models used lucas.

I have 2 valves and both are as clean as they get. This problem might be something else, had it in spring and cleaned all connectors and it dissapeared...until a few days ago. Engine starts fine but has an unusual high idle(1500rpm-2000rpm) after about 10 mins of driving the idle just dissapear completely, like someone is pushing the off switch. But the engine works as usual but stalls if you ever stops pushing the gas pedal a bit. No hesitation just stall directly. if you sit and keep it alive with gas for about a minute or two you can lure the idle back. after it stalls you can start it right back up like nothing happened but still no idle, if you dont let i cool down then you get your high 1500-2000rpm until it gets a bit hot and then its gone again. I start to suspect the throttle potentiometer, maybe its worn and dont send signal to the system that i stopped and dont push gas pedal no more? The ride home was "fun" braking with the handbrake so i could keep it alive with the gas pedal at every stop light.

@@saab900turbo9 yes. It could be your throttle position sensor. Ecu is getting wrong readings.

@@HuckThis1971 A new one cost about 70 dollars, always worth a try, at the same time i can clean out the throttle body.

@@MalindoWe Yes. Rust is a chemical reaction between metal, water, air. If you put a barrier between the metal and air+ water the reaction cant happen. Paint just sits on top of the rust so air and water can easily sneak in to the base metal for more rust, or gets trapped under the paint or coating for even more rust making. The oil creeps in and sits on top of the base metal preventing air and water from getting to it. Check out a car with an oil leak, where the oil is there is very little rust. The downside is that the oil can get washed away so you have to apply more after about 2 years.

You can tell by the connector, early ones were round ish like that, like my 86 turbo, but the newer ones have box connections

@@harlow1126 What connectors are you refering to? Under the AC fastening is the number: 752170 In front on top the gearbox in front of the clutch there is a little sign with a bar code and the number: B09668 Is that some kind of identification?

@@saab900turbo9 specifically the three pin connector coming off the distributor

Thanks now i know where to search. Lucas came on the late models 1990-1993. The turbo got water and oil pipes so it seems to be at least 1987. If im fixing this up i want to be 100% on the model and year so i dont order wrong things for it. My car got lucas so at least i now got spare parts. This will be a later project because my main brake cylinder in the volvo is leaking internally, and the whole brake system needs much attention so this winter i will focus on that. The volvo brand is still alive and well so i got access to all original parts. For about 1000 dollars i will get new disks, calipers and hoses + the main brake cylinder of course.

yes it works and is very common to use against rust. The biggest problem is that its a bit messy and the fire hazard it poses in rags and paper you use while applying it. And it is friendly to the environment. The raw non boiled one is best. I have heard that fluid film is also very good to use.

​@@saab900turbo9 The biggest drawback to fluid film is the cost. I'm nearing the end of a 5 gallon bucket. It works well, but I will not be buying another one due to the cost. Going to try bar and chain oil next.

@@ohsoloco5113 Linseed oil might be a bit cheaper. Here in sweden the cost is less than half.

@@saab900turbo9 Interesting. I just looked up pricing on raw linseed oil here in the US, and it's about 4 times the cost of bar and chain oil.

@@ohsoloco5113 seems bit expensive. Here i get about 1 litre(close to a quart i think) för 10 dollars. Fluidfilm costs about 2-3 times that here.

Its tuned so i want to know the pressure. Its old and its good to keep an eye on it, especially if something goes wrong. It is 33 years old so it can happen. 1 bar instead of 0.7 and keeps pressure better at higher rpm. Saab 9000 intercooler in front and some other small tweaks/fixes.

takes 24 hours to cure though. But tomorrow i will get out on a longer ride, was about one year since i last drove it more than around the block. So its needed.

The first minute of the video you see that you can remove the tensioner if you remove the nut, the bolt is annoying to get back so just keep that in place with a finger from back side. With the nut loose you can as in the video remove the tensioner and the power steering pump will swing very freely if you have loosened the other bolts of course. The only thing i did not mention in the video but can be seen is the metal and rubber pipes to and from the pump are a bit stiff but not really a big hinder. In the video i could remove the belt with one hand so i am not sure what you get stuck on if you removed the tensioner?

@@saab900turbo9 Thank you. Maybe in my logic it was a bit absurd to have to remove parts if all I want is to change a (***) belt, but we did it in the end quite along the lines that you suggested

Not mint but pretty close.

Here in sweden saab and volvo where rivals before saab died and volvo got bought by china, kinda fun to put them beside each other. 😉

Was very lucky that day. One of the few days the weather was good. Now its around 0c at night and around 4c on days with constant rain. To the weekend it should be better they say.

​@@saab900turbo9Been raining here in North Carolina for many days in a row. The whole southeast of the US has been getting thunderstorms. Quite a bit warmer over here though - between 28-33C some days, and very humid

@@austinvitoux5835 Here records is broken on how cold it is, winter just wont loose its grip. Today seems to be a bit better but still very cold for the season.

Nice, hope you have fun!

The insane part is that its lowered with sport springs 😮. And the plug is close to the left front of the car. More cars should adopt this.

@@saab900turbo9 yes, the saab 96 has 197 mm of ground clearance stock and the new porsche cayenne has 208 mm ground clearance :) fucking new "offrodader" its kinda embarassing to see a 1970s family car be better than a 2024 super offroader

@@myyracommunity4932 some old cars put new to shame. I will have to check my old Volvos ground clearance, its high...really high.

@@saab900turbo9 my grandpa actually used my saab 96 as a hunting car, he was able to go in forest with it and it served in that purpose for pretty much 5 years, i have heard that once he got stuck when it sunk and got stuck from the bottom. But other than that he was able to drive on rocks and shit. You can see the 96 on my channel being started from -24 after i woke it up from its 20 years of sleep. Some amazing cars were made back in the day, and oh to mention the freewheeling clutch it enables you to shift gears without using the clutch pedal.

@@myyracommunity4932 I think older cars was made more for usefulness than cool factor. Many modern cars go for thats sports car look but suffer in how useful they are in like your example in the woods.

Yes its called age and wear 😉. Most cars have places to adjust for these things as they age. This car is also modified with much bigger IC, modified APC. There is a rod to adjust for a reason or else there would just be a rod with no adjust points at all. The repair handbook says that is the way to do it so i follow that. Right or not it works.

@@saab900turbo9 It did not work on my 9-3 T5 t25, I lowered the boost at both base and max boost, because the gate was not closed 100% anymore when adjusting the rod longer then stock. Had to replace the actuator to get a correct base boost, because the old one could no longer travel far enough to fully close and fully open anymore. The adjustment is there because the actuator is a universal part that fits multiple turboes.

​@@larsjrgensen5975 Then yours was obviously faulty or broken . It worked on this. The turbos might be different. On this one the shorter the rod the more boost and longer rod less boost. If i could not reach desired boost level i also would have changed this, but now i did. Well the instruction book says its there for adjustment. And i would be quite surprised if it did not need any adjustment after 33+ years. My base boost is now correct. I think the adjustable rod has multiple purposes. The ACP on this car works against base boost. I have modified it so if the base boost is 0.45 the max boost is 1.0 bar(0,7 standard). It was 0,6 so the full boost was close to 1,2 but seemed to try to climb more before the knock sensor stepped in and pulled it down to safer levels. I have also told it to keep the boost longer, at high revs the boost can drop very low on most cars. This tries too keep it as high as possible even at high revs.

@@saab900turbo9 As for as I know 0.15 bar higher base boost does not change the max boost to 0.2 bar higher, because the base boost is still lower then max boost, so the wastegate should have no problem adjusting the max boost down to the level the ECU is programmed to run at, if it works correctly. You are mentioning 33+ years, is the wastegate actuator 33 years old? if yes then I think yours is worth replacing too. If the APC system is able to boost higher then 1.2 and to a level where the engine starts knocking, but then lower the boost to safer levels then the APC system works, if you prevent this from happening with hardware you are sabotaging the system from working correctly. You should program the ECU to get the lower boost level instead of adjusting the wastegate.

​@@larsjrgensen5975 The base boost is supposed to be 0.45 and the APC(ECU has nothing to do with the turbo on this old car)use this to calculate max boost. How to "program" it is that you open up the box and solder it and turn some knobs. Its like all computers that base all their speeds on the Ring bus/infinity fabric former known as front side bus. It looks at the bus and the ads a multiplier on it and then you have the speed for example on the cpu. before unlocked multipliers(like i tuned my box) you tweaked the FSB for more speed. Example: bus 100mhz, cpu speed is bus *15 = 1500mhz. if you could not go beyond 15 you could instead tweek the bus: bus 125mhz *15 = 1875mhz cpu speed. however it could ad a host on problems because everything in the computer calculate the speed with this bus. I think this system behaves very similar, i looks at base speed and ads a multiplier or just 0.x bar boost to that. If the base boost is 0.1 bar or 5 bar i does not care. Mine still works as intended so no need to replace it yet, maybe for the looks of it because its all rusted.

Remember to first try on a spot that is not visible so if it do not work you do not make it worse. Is not leather kind of easy to get clean? But i guess leather is sensitive to chemicals but steam is very hot so take care so you do not get burns.

@@saab900turbo9 Yes, will be careful, although I will be doing some spot dying as well. The stains in leather penetrates beyond the surface, so I want to get as much of the discoloration out before I apply the dye.

@@TheBTG88 hope it works. Last resort might be bleach?

Boost gauge was a temporary thing that became permanent. So my car i not the rust winner after all 😉

Yes, the AC cars don have cabin filters?

Most of it is linseed oil. It seems to leak a bit while engine is running but very little while not running...i think. When its not running the leak is about a drop a week or less. So the leak is probably above the oil level, and that is good. These engines is prone to leak even the rebuilt ones. Guess its a feature :) A little leak is ok for a car with a 33 year old engine and and some miles on it, but something to keep an eye on and of course KNOW whats leaking and where its coming from. Usual leaking spots on this i have read is: oil pump, where the gearbox and engine is joined, head gasket, power steering valve cover and of of course all seals for all axles going out of the gearbox or engine. Where was your leaking from? Mine does not leak from the axle where the clutch is, so much i do know. What does TLC mean?

TLC = Tender Loving Care, it's an English expression. I think mine was leaking the worst from the engine/gearbox gasket and each end cover, but it was the worst on the flywheel-side end cover. It was dripping down and running into the primary housing "drain hole" (that Saab luckily designed into the housing) below the clutch output shaft. Of course it then hit the bottom of the pan and splashed everywhere with the turbulence underneath. Only a drop once in a while is pretty nice! My '92 had that marking pattern, but it was actually oil coming out of the gearbox at the differential cover. That car's being rebuilt as well. Was supposed to be a quick engine-out, engine-in repair but it turned into a full restoration after I found a bunch of rust in the body. Funny enough, I just uploaded a video of reassembling the engine for the '92 over at my other account: BFJRestoration. It's pretty long, but fun to play it in the background of other tasks. I tried to be thorough with real-time video and part numbers on screen as I went, so hopefully folks find it useful.

@@austinvitoux That is what it means. My native is not english so some expressions i do not get and spelling and building sentences are other things i am bad at. Goolge helps a lot. In my language we often put words together, english is the other way around i have noticed. The place mine is not leaking is at the flywheel end. Some leaks can be hard to find. My volvo leaked at the valve cover. It found its way between the engine and gearbox and dripped down there so i was a bit irritated that a car whom is bearable broken in already leaks, also its an old 740 and those cars is not fast but never dies or get serious problems. Then i found the problem and now its very dry. I think it leaks a bit more while it runs so i have to keep an eye on the oil levels. And park on some cardboard at home. I am considering a rebuild in a few years if the leak do not get too bad then movies like yours can be GOLD, after all i am just a happy amateur.

​@@saab900turbo9 After I commented the first time, I remembered you're over in Sweden (if I remember correctly) and felt bad that I may have caused you some confusion with the translation. Sorry about that! I've always heard those older Volvos are like tanks and keep running forever. Glad I could help with the rebuild video. I'm also trying to help my future-self in the process as well. I can go back to it whenever I need to refresh my own memory.

@@austinvitoux I often understand the most except for some phrases and words, but those are often easy too look up. The hard part for me is answering so people understand me. If you ever get an older volvo, they are also getting rare nowadays. you want the "red block" engine. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_Redblock_Engine. Mine is non interference so if the belt timing snaps you just put on a new and ride on like nothing ever happened. Not only is it tough its also very simple and easy to understand and work on. My brother got one and it soon passes 500 000 km. Mine is "young" at about 150 000 km. Volvo today lives on the reputation of these old cars. Your video is amazing, its like a "how to rebuild a saab 900 engine for dummies". Really excellent work and will probably help a lot of people.

Looks awful. They did not think it through it seems because the original large 4x10 speaker is half covered with metal.

Yes but those lida are becoming rare nowadays. Before my old was stolen i did the same(Yes they took the whole lid). A bonus is that they dont see speakers they want. The subbs under the chairs makes up for the smaller speakers.

@@saab900turbo9 The glass all around my car (ex windshield) has a dark tint that hides the speakers (and other things) from prying eyes. But I understand your reasoning.

​@@TheBTG88 That is good because the lock on these old cars are REALLY bad. Back in the day you could accidentally enter the wrong car and start it and then realize your mistake.

They are quite unique. I got this from my brother for my licence too, about 15 years ago. Then i just held on to it until i could fix it up. It got some problems but fixable. The hardest parts to find is parts for the body. They are quite rare these days so they could be hard to find.

You can import one from Netherlands as they're very cheap, and they're quite honest.

Polish machine: Tokya OP5 Gen2 Polish: King Carthur Reshine set(easy color coded for beginners) Wax: Soft99 Fusso Coat(black) A set of foam pulleys and alot of masking tape. Then its just time and elbow grease and some microfiber towels. Do not forget to clean the car carefully. If your car have not been cleaned in a very good manner before use a clay bar to remove all the grit from the paint. If you do not clean it good the result might be disastrous. Cleaning the car is the most important step to get a good result. I used a deep cut foam pulley together with deep cut polish(rubbing). After that i used the heavy polish, then i waxed it. You can polish it even more(finer polish) if you want but that was enough for me.

@@saab900turbo9 It would have been great to watch you in action and to see the transformation as it took place.

​@@pbutter237 I actually thinked after i was almost done: maybe i should have filmed that? Next time ill do it. I might get i shabby car in the garage soon enough.

well at least you can refresh the adjustment rod while its out

Did not know how hard it was to get back in

thats what she said 😆@@saab900turbo9

I'll look into that in the future. I do not want to change the appearance too much so it looks weird. That is why i wanted too keep the the soft yellow glow like an old lamp.

@@saab900turbo9 Picking the appropriate’K’ value of the light for the individual application will ensure it is a positive change.

Yes. The one i use is a converter of the shelf product. I just put it in a smaller more usable container.

At least i get fresh air 😆

@@saab900turbo9 and weight reduction😀i have no idea what stage your project is in,but good luck. I love this car. And the turbo lag too😀

@@judod97 The turbo lag is half the fun 😉. The stage im in is a bit unclear, i try too fix the most critical parts. Summer is fast approaching and there is some body work i want to at least fix a little. The car is legal to drive and the main problems with rust on the serious parts is fixed. This is a "rolling" project. At least during summer. Maybe i should do a fast summary video soon? You got one of these too?

@@saab900turbo9 i always wanted one,but it is difficult to come by and even more to find parts. Not impossible,but i have project motorcycles that take all the free time and money...good luck,i will subscribe so i can track your progress🙂

​@@judod97 I miss a few trim parts and they are really hard to come by nowadays. I do not do the most beautiful fixes but they often work. My brother got a honda CB450 "black bomber" with 4 gears in the gearbox. Its quite unique, especially with the 4 gear gearbox. He got many cool cars and motorcycles, i try to get him too do youtube videos too. We will see if i get him going.

This is a fast and ugly fix because i want to drive this very soon and i dont want rain in it. New metal is the way to go always. I will watch that and my brother can help as well. He always use new metal, but takes time to get it right, especially if you are a beginner like myself.

@@saab900turbo9 I'm not knocking you mate, I'm just spreading the word, he's a really great teacher👍

@@ddoherty5956 i believe you, this is just a fast temporary fix, looks better at least but the main fixing is the rain getting in. When the times come for real fixing i might watch a lot videos, and his of course.

@@saab900turbo9 you will 🤣😉👍🇬🇧