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You are welcome. I am glad you found it helpful.

Are you looking for the rainbow color appearance as the light hits from different angles? If so, these types of test grids will get you there. Just a matter of getting the right etch depth and line spacing to refract the light properly.

I I have not tried yet. I did see there are some other people able to get colors, so I plan to try it soon.

Hello. Thank you. If you are wanting a MOPA with adjustable pulse width, like mine, you will need to make sure the source model number has an “M” in it. Typically they are 20w, 30w, 60w, 80w, or higher. The JPT 50w is a fixed pulse width of 200ns. Model number will have “LP-E” in it. This will work for marking black, but other colors will be more difficult. If the listing you are looking at doesn’t state what laser source it is using, make sure to ask before you purchase. If they don’t want to tell you or can’t, do not buy from them. Find someone that is knowledgeable and transparent about their product. I found better results for colors, including black, using a larger lens. This will reduce your ability to deep etch, so I always recommend getting couple lenses for your machine. 110x110 is good etching and general purpose. I find 200x200 or larger is better for color marking, but will not etch very well. You will have to experiment with your specific setup to find the best parameters. I hope that helps.

Thank you. 100w settings will definitely be worlds different, but the process will be the same. Best of luck.

just got my 100w MOPA... and I'm chasing colors right now too

You are welcome. Glad to help.

Thank you. I am glad you found it helpful.

Could be a setting not turned on, or you have a fixed pulse width MOPA. If you have an “M” series JPT, then you will need to go into the laser settings and check the box to turn on QPulse. If you have an “LPE” series, then it will be locked at 200ns no matter what you type in.

The material test can be used for different laser types. I do not have an XTool, so I have no way of testing myself, but should be possible from what they are advertising.

You are welcome. I hope it helps.

That is odd. I have not experienced that issue. If it happened to me I would: 1) Double check focus first 2) Test each layer using a square the same size as the test grid square to see if you get the same results as the test. If they are still all black, 3) Double check layer settings and look for unwanted subroutines on the layer 4) Restart the laser and the computer and repeat step 2. 5) If results are still black, attempt another established setting from your library and see if that gets the expected result. 6) Double check laser configuration settings. I use IPG-YLMP for my JPT MOPA. 7) If no change, contact LightBurn support.

Hello. I have never heard of Voiern, so I will not say anything on them or their products. CloudRay makes an acceptable machine. Normally not the highest quality components or customer service, but for the most part they work and will send you replacement components if something is broken. If I was to endorse any laser right now, it would be one from Pascal at Haotian Laser. I have not personally bought from him yet, but know several people that have and were very satisfied with the machine and the after sales support.

You are welcome. Hope you found it helpful.

I would start with making sure the source is powered. My laser has a separate key to turn the source on, that is separate from activating the Galvo head and controller card. From there I would make sure your lens cover is off and try to find your focus. Get a piece of steel and place it on the table under the lens. Look for the “F” number on your lens (ie a 175x175 is F254) Set your lens height the F number +100mm) For your 100w, I would start with 600mm/s, 80%, 70khz, 650ns. Run a circle or square with those settings on continuous and slowly turn down the lens until you see the brightest sparks.

@@MakrTheory Sorry. I didn't explain myself well enough. The laser itself works. My issue is when I use the settings I find on videos and use the same material the video says to use I do not get the same result. For example, I am trying to do what you are doing in this video such as engraving color on dog tags. I have a 100w laser so I use a converter to get the right parameters from your settings on a 30w laser. I do not get colors. I have done it multiple times and got different results each time. Thank you for all the help

@@harrygithens3908 I see now. Your machine a has a lot more power and a different power curve. I would ignore that converter. I haven’t found one online that has worked very well for me. I think they making some wrong assumptions on how lenses and sources work together. I have been working on a better converter, and plan to post a new video with some helpful sample files to get people started very soon. In the meantime, if you want to share your lens and verify if your source model has an “E” in the full model number, I can try to give you a head start with some base settings.

@@MakrTheory I HAVE LOOKED FOR DAYS AND CAN NOT FIND ANY NUMBERS I THINK THAT THIS LASER IS BAD. I WAS LOOKING FOR A FILE THAT CAN TEST THE LASER. DOSE A FILE EXIST. YOU KNOW ONE THAT WOULD GIVE YOU THE SAME THING EVERY TIME SAME SIZE, COLOR AND DEPTH OF CUT. I HAVE DOWNLOADED A LIBRARY FOR A 100W FIBER LASER WITH A 300 LENS. THIS IS MY LASER SETUP NOW. IT HAS A P-MAG FILE WITH BROWN, GRAY, TAN. I DO NOT GET ANY OF THE COLORS. I AM ABOUT TO GIVE UP. CAN YOU HELP

I’m sure there is firmware in the source and the controller cards. I don’t know how to access it or why anyone would want to.

It has crossed my mind several times. I feel the document alone wouldn’t be as beneficial without a tutorial to walk through it. It is a priority once I get back to making content again.

@MakrTheory Thank You. I tried to screen shot the points in the video that shows your plates and markings...I never got the same results but I keep trying and it's frustrating as I have a 60W Mopa JPT and it must be slightly different as none of my colors are VIBRANT...never know when to leave cross Hatch on...di-directional on..or off....but hey I'm still learning.

@MasterTheNEC there are some variables that will change with every setup. The lenses typically used on these lasers are “economy” grade and have a wide range of variability in the focus and work area. This will change your spot size and the ability to mark materials. I try to do everything as a single pass, no crosshatch. I would select bidirectional or unidirectional and just keep that setting fixed through the tests.

@MakrTheory Thanks. My lens is 175mm x 175mm. I will learn it eventually but kinda wish I just got the 60W Fiber rather than the MOPA at this point..but I keep trying...LOL

@MasterTheNEC I felt that way initially too because the MOPA adds another variable to figure out. Honestly the MOPA is the better machine and can do way more, once you get used to it. When you get a color you like, do a new grid narrowing in on those same variables. If you are already really tight on one of those variables, you can lock them in and start using another variable on the grid to see if that helps vibrancy. Just take it in small changes.

You are welcome. It makes a world of difference, especially on photo engraves. The calculator got put on hold last year with all my other video plans. Looking to get back to it some point this year. My plan is to make it a free and easily accessible online calculator, but last time I was trying to work on it, it was going to require a custom website and good developers aren’t cheap. I’m hoping someone has developed a plugin that will do what I want since then.

@@MakrTheorycan I get your email to ask you a question?

@@dariushutchins2735 Best way to reach me is through my Discord server listed in the video description, or in the Laser Maker’s Realm Discord server.

You want to have the jump delay as low as possible to prevent excessive run times, but if they are too short, the laser starts marking before it stabilizes the mirrors. This causes the line to show a slight wobble at the start. The lines on the perimeter are there as a reference scale, similar to the other timing test. I may remove them when I refresh this video to prevent confusion going forward.

@@MakrTheory So basically just set the jump setting so the line is straight and not curved at the tip correct? Do these settings need to be repeated for a different lens each time?

@@hcues1 Correct on the curve/wiggle at the line start. Unless you used a really small lens (50x50 or 70x70) to do the timing and then switch to a 300x300, you should be good for all lenses, especially if you used magnification to inspect the test marks.

I can try to guide you in the right direction, but it will really depend on your specific setup. What size lens are you using? There should be a marking on the lens stating something like “110x110 F160”.

@@MakrTheory I have a 70x70, 110x110 , 250x250, 300x300 and I have on order a 175x175 i am using a 110x110 lens. I really appreciate all the help

@@harrygithens3908 lens is likely your issue because the spot size is so small. You either have to drop the power even further and tighten up the line distance, or switch to a larger lens. I got my best results with my 300, but each machine and lens is different.

That is odd. You should be able to fix that in the machine setup. What software are you using?

You can start with what I ran on one of my initial tests that got color, but I would drop the power to 30% of what I use in the video. Lens plays a factor as well. If you are using a lens smaller than 175x175 (F254), you will likely need to drop power a little more.

​@MakrTheory I have a 60W Monport Mopa. Have you published all these settings anywhere? Very Nice work here, thank you for sharing.

@MasterTheNEC I have not published them, but I am currently working on something that would help people find their starting points. I will be announcing them in a video soon.

@@MakrTheory Perfect...Keep it Simple for us Simple Folks...LOL

You are welcome! I hope it helped.

You are welcome. Now time to have some fun with photos on your fiber.

Thank you Rich!

I have had some rust on a one sample, but not on most of them. I live in a dry desert climate, so I’m assuming that is proving me a positive result than other videos I have seen discussing colors rusting. I have been wanting to make a follow-up video with testing for corrosion, but have had a shift in priorities since I made this video.

Thank you. Most have survived well. With no after treatment, some corrosion appeared on one of the bottle opener samples of unknown alloy (assuming 304), but it was on a seemingly random spot. The others appear to be doing fine, but I live in a dry desert climate.

Thank you. I hope you are doing well also.

You are welcome. Best way to learn and figure out how things work is to make small changes and take notes for each test.

@@MakrTheory thanks you read my mind that’s my second question, lol.

You are welcome. I am glad you found it helpful.

If you are looking to use it as a reference chart to get colors on your laser, I would strongly suggest you run your own tests with your specific laser and setup. My settings will likely not work on your machine, which is why I explained the process without providing specific settings.

I provided a link to the dog tags in the description. The bottle openers are no longer sold by that same supplier, so I have to buy some others and test to provide a link. The 416 and 17-4 were from OnlineMetals.com. I'll update with a link in the description this weekend. The 316L discs were scrap slugs from a local metal shop. It was a lucky find and I grabbed what they had of them at scrap prices.

That sounds like a very interesting process. All my projects have been for someone wanting a specific color or appearance. The bespoke approach you have taken sounds like a lot more fun and less stressful. Thank you for sharing.

MOPA helps give more options and fine tuning, but is not required to get colors. It is all about getting the right settings. I focused on MOPA because that is what I have and it seems to be the big selling point most manufacturers use for them.

Thank you. Diode will definitely be a different setting than Fiber due to the different wave length of the laser (450nm vs 1064nm) and the way it is absorbed by the metal. Best of luck.

Thank you. I’m glad you found it helpful. Best of luck on your quest for color settings.

@@MakrTheory *I have a 60W Mopa JPT Fiber Laser OMG-X I'll be making my attempts at Duplicating your IMPRESSIVE Results!!!*

It really depends on the settings and laser. I have managed to get color with my F254 (175x175) and my F420 (300x300) on my 30w M1 JPT. I know other people use the F254 with their 60w M7 for color as well.

@@MakrTheory Actually got mine to work. Just have to get correct distance. Do you know what the smallest and biggest diameter the 254 head can laser?

@@authentic4225 I’m not sure I follow. Are you talking how small or large of an area you can mark on a flat surface?

You're welcome. I am glad you found it helpful.

Thank you. I am glad you found it helpful. 60w JPT is a great “do everything” source. I definitely regret not spending the extra money on a 60w instead of my 30w.

You can get a shimmery “white” and black/dark gray. Colors are limited to iron alloys (ferrous metals) and some exotic materials like titanium. Good way to verify is if you can heat the metal to near melting and see a rainbow effect after it cools, you can laser mark colors. It doesn’t take a lot of power to make the color marks on stainless. 20w is adequate, but if you also plan to do engravings on larger items, you will want more power.

thank you sir @@MakrTheory

You are welcome. LightBurn is the real time saver for this process.

WHAAA HOOOO!!!!! 19 Echo! US Army 1988 -1992. WHAAAA WHOOOOO!!!!!!!

I am glad you got it straightened out. I appreciate the feedback and reviewed the video myself. I agree I was much more thorough with explanations on the EZCAD portion when compared to the LightBurn portion. A mistake on my part for having recorded them consecutively and not reviewed them independently as a LightBurn user would. I will have to make a revised video for that portion. I'll also make sure to mention that some settings may require a negative value. Thank you.

Thank you. Marking copper and brass take a lot of energy, so if you plan to mark large pieces or quantities of pieces more than just hobby, I would definitely look to 60w or more. For the color marking, there are no dyes. I have seen conflicting answers as well. For the most visible and vibrant colors, I believe the answer is a mix of the microscopic grooves left in the material distorting the light and the heat temper of the metal. If it was only the grooves, we should be able to get the same colors on aluminum or copper alloys as well, but I have never seen them on those materials.

Thank you. Hope you found it helpful.

Thank you! Planning on being more consistent with content this year.

@@MakrTheory with or without consistency, do it because you love it. Don't let it feel like a job. ❤️

When focus was properly set, thickness did not appear to make any difference on the material test grids. Perhaps that could change when marking a large area and a thin material were to overheat or warp. But that would be an issue of going out of focus.

Thank you. If you have a deep blue color, try altering your speed and line distance by a factor of 1.25. (If line distance is .004 x 1.25 = .005 and speed could be 200 x 1.25 = 250) I have a friend in the Laser Maker’s Realm Discord that recently did that on his 60w MOPA with a 220 lens and it worked well. If that doesn’t work for you, I don’t know his exact settings, but if you join the Discord you could see some of the test grids he shared in the “fiber-show-off” channel. Those might steer you closer. Link is case sensitive discord.gg/Fyuea5dv

@@MakrTheory thank you sir please keep up the good work and continue to share. Your good

@@ronnyallred4540 you are welcome. Please let me know how it works out for you. Colors are tough and some of my theories are still a work in progress. I am hoping to have more time for content creation in 2024, but family takes priority over side projects.

Thank you.

Copper takes a lot of energy to mark because of how quickly it dissipates the heat. A newer 30w will work, but I recommend 50w or more if you plan on having a work area bigger than 110mmx110mm.

Could be either one. If you know what model your laser source is, you should be able to look it up. Most common MOPA sources are the JPT “M” series. Model number should have “-M1-“, “-M6-“, “-M7-“, or “-M8-“ in the model number. There are other variable pulse width MOPA sources, but I am not very familiar with them.

@@MakrTheory it was just a radio button to show the field. All good now. Even got some colour, but a long way to go! Thanks for your videos!

⁠@@47zeroexcellent! I always preface turning on the radio button with finding out the model source and if it is capable of adjusting the QPulse. I am glad you were able to get it working and start making some colors.