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Middling Modeler
United States
Приєднався 17 жов 2011
🛠️ Welcome to the Middling Modeler's channel!
Hey, I'm the Middling Modeler, here I share my journey as an intermediate-level scale modeling enthusiast. Dive into detailed build experiences, practical tips, and honest reviews to elevate your modeling game.
🔧 What to Expect:
Explore various model kits with me, from assembly to painting and weathering. I'm not an expert, just like you, making every build an adventure rather than a quest for perfection.
🎥 Release Schedule:
New videos as I complete projects and identify new tips. Subscribe and hit the bell for insightful content that's both informative and enjoyable.
💬 Community Connection:
Join the conversation in the comments, and follow me on Instagram and Scalemates for updates and behind-the-scenes glimpses.
📺 Explore More:
Check out the playlists for a diverse range of model-related content.
Thanks for being part of the Middling Modeler family. Subscribe, like, and let's make some models! 🚀✨
Hey, I'm the Middling Modeler, here I share my journey as an intermediate-level scale modeling enthusiast. Dive into detailed build experiences, practical tips, and honest reviews to elevate your modeling game.
🔧 What to Expect:
Explore various model kits with me, from assembly to painting and weathering. I'm not an expert, just like you, making every build an adventure rather than a quest for perfection.
🎥 Release Schedule:
New videos as I complete projects and identify new tips. Subscribe and hit the bell for insightful content that's both informative and enjoyable.
💬 Community Connection:
Join the conversation in the comments, and follow me on Instagram and Scalemates for updates and behind-the-scenes glimpses.
📺 Explore More:
Check out the playlists for a diverse range of model-related content.
Thanks for being part of the Middling Modeler family. Subscribe, like, and let's make some models! 🚀✨
ICM's 1/35th scale FWD Type B - Builder's Notes
Today, we dive into the intricate world of model building with the 1/35th scale FWD Type B kit from ICM. This video will guide you through my build process, highlighting both the beauty and the challenges of this historic model.
Kit Overview:
The kit is beautifully molded with impressive raised and recessed details. However, the soft plastic and the packing method can lead to breakage - a drawback I encountered with my kit.
Build Highlights:
Chassis Construction: The chassis assembly is a bit tricky due to the numerous right-angle joints. Ensuring everything stays square can be challenging.
Radiator and Cab Assembly: The instructions suggest attaching the radiator to the chassis early on. In hindsight, attaching it to the cab first might be a better approach for a cleaner glue joint.
Mounting the Cab: Attaching the cab to the chassis is tough, with minimal reference points. Patience and precision are key.
Side Steps: Aligning the side steps was difficult due to limited reference points. Ensuring they are straight and square took extra effort.
Axles and Anti-Sway Bars: Expect the anti-sway bars to break - mine did without any mishandling. Luckily, reattaching them was straightforward.
Bed Cover: Assembling the bed cover was a nightmare. Building it directly on the bed is advisable, but don’t forget to paint the interior beforehand.
Lights and Lamps: While the lights and lamps went on easily, the clear parts didn’t look quite right to me.
Driver Figures: I planned to add driver figures, but the IDM driver figures didn't fit this kit. Keep this in mind if you’re planning a diorama.
Conclusion:
Despite the challenges, this kit is a rewarding build. It’s not for beginners, but intermediate modelers and above will enjoy the end result. The FWD Type B is a remarkable piece of history and makes for a fantastic display piece.
Join me as I reflect on my build process, share insights, and hopefully help you avoid some of the pitfalls I encountered. Happy hobbying!
00:00 The Plastic
01:23 The Build
09:18 The Conclusion
Kit Overview:
The kit is beautifully molded with impressive raised and recessed details. However, the soft plastic and the packing method can lead to breakage - a drawback I encountered with my kit.
Build Highlights:
Chassis Construction: The chassis assembly is a bit tricky due to the numerous right-angle joints. Ensuring everything stays square can be challenging.
Radiator and Cab Assembly: The instructions suggest attaching the radiator to the chassis early on. In hindsight, attaching it to the cab first might be a better approach for a cleaner glue joint.
Mounting the Cab: Attaching the cab to the chassis is tough, with minimal reference points. Patience and precision are key.
Side Steps: Aligning the side steps was difficult due to limited reference points. Ensuring they are straight and square took extra effort.
Axles and Anti-Sway Bars: Expect the anti-sway bars to break - mine did without any mishandling. Luckily, reattaching them was straightforward.
Bed Cover: Assembling the bed cover was a nightmare. Building it directly on the bed is advisable, but don’t forget to paint the interior beforehand.
Lights and Lamps: While the lights and lamps went on easily, the clear parts didn’t look quite right to me.
Driver Figures: I planned to add driver figures, but the IDM driver figures didn't fit this kit. Keep this in mind if you’re planning a diorama.
Conclusion:
Despite the challenges, this kit is a rewarding build. It’s not for beginners, but intermediate modelers and above will enjoy the end result. The FWD Type B is a remarkable piece of history and makes for a fantastic display piece.
Join me as I reflect on my build process, share insights, and hopefully help you avoid some of the pitfalls I encountered. Happy hobbying!
00:00 The Plastic
01:23 The Build
09:18 The Conclusion
Переглядів: 703
Відео
Reviewing the DSPIAE Electronic Sanding Pen/Rotary Tool: A Handy Addition to Your Hobby Toolkit
Переглядів 8792 місяці тому
In this video, we dive into the DSPIAE electronic sanding pen, a versatile tool priced at around $50. Despite its somewhat uninspiring name, this pen packs quite a punch. Charged via USB-C, it boasts a long-lasting battery life, making it a reliable companion for your modeling projects. With two set screws to secure the included bit and three speed settings (5,000, 10,000, and 18,000 RPM), this...
Tamiya's 1/35th scale PAK 40 - Builder's Notes
Переглядів 4143 місяці тому
In this episode of Builder's Notes, we delve into the world of scale modeling with the Tamiya PAK 40 kit in 1/35 scale. Originally tooled in 1975, this kit remains a classic choice for modelers of all levels. For under $10, you get everything you need to recreate this iconic piece of history. The kit includes three sprues - two for the gun itself and one for the three-man crew. Additionally, yo...
Tamiya's 1/24th scale Honda S600 - Builder's Notes
Переглядів 2203 місяці тому
In this round of Builders Notes, the Tamiya 1/24 Honda S600 model kit! In this video, we'll take a close look at what's inside the box, discuss the build experience, and share some tips for assembling this iconic kit. Released in 2015, the Tamiya Honda S600 kit offers modelers a chance to recreate this classic car in stunning detail. It shares some parts with the older S800 kit from 1997, provi...
Tamiya's 1/35th scale PAK 35/36 - Builder's Notes
Переглядів 7534 місяці тому
Quick round of Builder's Notes of the Tamiya PAK-35/36 model kit in 1:35 scale. This classic kit, though aged, still holds up as a solid option for model enthusiasts. Available for under $10, it offers great value with finely molded parts and detailed accessories. The kit includes two sprues: one for the gun with raised details and accessories like cartridges, and another for the crew with vari...
How to use Tamiya X-21 to make glossy paints flat
Переглядів 15 тис.4 місяці тому
Just a quick tip on how to use X-21 from Tamiya to turn glossy paints flat. 0:00 Intro 0:28 X-21 1:16 Mixing Paint with X-21 2:20 Spraying Glossy 3:05 Spraying Flat 3:54 Results 4:07 Outro
Tamiya's 1/48th scale IL-2 Shturmovik - Builder's Notes
Переглядів 9525 місяців тому
Welcome to the world of scale modeling! In this video, we dive into the Tamiya 1/48 scale IL-2, the iconic ground-attack aircraft also known as the Shturmovik. From the joyous build experience to tips on avoiding pitfalls, join me in building this masterpiece. This kit is a modeler's dream, whether you're an IL-2 enthusiast or not. A highly recommended addition to your collection. If you enjoye...
Testing the Clear Coat Technique for Perfect Masking Lines!
Переглядів 8 тис.5 місяців тому
In this scale modeling experiment, we delve into the common belief that applying a clear coat over masking tape results in a cleaner masking line. Join us as we conduct a practical test using both airbrush and rattle can techniques, exploring the impact of clear coats on the final outcome. The results might just surprise you! Watch to uncover whether this extra step is truly a game-changer or i...
Pegasus T-800 Diorama in a Box - Builder's Notes
Переглядів 1495 місяців тому
Welcome to another episode of Builder's Notes! In this installment, we dive into the world of Terminator fandom as we assemble and paint the T-800 Endoskeletons kit from Pegasus. Join me on this journey through the intricacies of the build process, from the unboxing of the kit to the final touches of paint on these menacing cyborgs. Discover the challenges and triumphs of creating a diorama ins...
Panel Lining Experiments: Water Mixable Oils And Water Color Pencils
Переглядів 2446 місяців тому
🎨 Welcome back to another episode of "Just the Tip" where we dive into the world of scale modeling! 🛩️ Today, we're pushing the boundaries and testing unconventional techniques for panel lining-water mixable oils and watercolor pencils. Join me as I explore the pros and cons of these alternative tools, comparing them to traditional methods like Tamiya Panel Liner and oil washes. 🤔 Can water mix...
Tamiya's Fine Drill Bits - Includes Stickers
Переглядів 3636 місяців тому
Tamiya's Fine Drill Set. It's the little things that make me smile!
Hasegawa's 1/72nd scale P-47D Thunderbolt Bubbletop - Builder's Notes
Переглядів 7986 місяців тому
In this video, join me on a journey as I share my experience building a 1/72nd scale model of the iconic P-47 Thunderbolt by Hasegawa. From failures in assembly to disappointing detailing, I'll guide you through the process of bringing this legendary aircraft to a disastrous end... in miniature form. Whether you're a scale modeling enthusiast or simply curious about the art of model building, t...
Werewolf 360 #miniaturepainting #werewolfminiature #paintedminiatures #tabletopgaming
Переглядів 5310 місяців тому
Just finished painting up this little guy. The sculpt was done by STL Miniatures. www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-werewolf-a-151759
Creating a Comfortable Organized Hobby Space
Переглядів 27910 місяців тому
In this video I will share with you some of the things I have added to my workspace over the years to make it more comfortable and to get the most out of my hobby space. We cover everything from ergonomics at your workbench, to lighting and ventilation for your airbrush. Say goodbye to discomfort and hello to an inspiring workspace that brings your projects to life! Don't forget to like, subscr...
very intresting. and awsom result.
Great product, thanks for doing what Tamiya doesnt - showing how to use it! I forgo the X20A and Flow Improver and use Mr. Levelling Thinner for amazing results!
I have never heard about this technique, so I did my own experiment. I used a scrap piece of styrene lap siding for n-scale. I primed it and then put down a piece of Tamiya tape and sprayed one side with clear gloss and the other side of the tape with satin gloss. I applied paint on both sides of the tape. I was pleasantly surprised that there was no bleeding on either side. I wish I had known this years ago. Thank you very much for this invaluable tip.
I love using this to make a clear flat by mixing it into Future thinned down with alcohol.
Awesome tip. Thanks friend.
Nice build out, and I definitely benefited from the video, primarily because more cars becoming do parts heavy it fan be frustrating I do like ICM kits. They have certainly expanded their kits to cover just about every thing you can imagine over land sea or air. I was surprised their packaging of the box was not up to their usual standards and the drivers didn't match. Still you have a vintage truck that displays very well. Thanks for sharing. What's coming up next?
Thanks! Yeah, I think their packaging would have worked had things been jammed in the bag a bit more tightly. As for what is next, I just finished a build on a V-1 Reichenberg which I did as a small vignette, that should be the next video in a couple weeks. I also just finished the build on a Nissan Skyline the other day so that video should be coming out in the near future as well.
THIS was the video I was looking for =) I've switched from Future to Gauzy and was looking into finding a flattening agent for it. I have tried Tamiya's own clear, flat, and semi flat clears, but they dont hold up under aggressive use of enamel/oil thinners (washes, dot filter work, etc.). I've accidentally gotten Tamiya/Gunze lacquer thinner on Gauzy and it didnt affect it. Ordering some X-21 and will run some tests. Thanks!
I brush paint my Tamiya paints as they lay down beautifully, well the flat paints do. I use the flat base when I need colors they don't offer in flat. Thanks for spreading the word for those that didn't know about this awesome product.
There after 4:30, that "front whatever it is" is an unditching channel/beam/ramp - at this point on the calendar I'm no longer sure what second word of the item's name is, last time I was in to military vehicles was 1990s. Some great looking figures in that little thing, Ahh, memories, the 2nd Tamiya model I ever built was their 1/35 edition of this way back around 1974. Its 2 guys were suitable for desert only. 📚📖Hey, a web find just now: See if you can find, issue 162, November 2014, Classic Military Vehicle magazine, looks to have a nice article about the vehicle. Aha, "Unditching Channel' is the part's proper name. Couple bits from article, Dingo was permanent 4WD, and quite fast on both raids and terrain. _(I meant _*_roads_*_ but yeah, guess it would be fast on raids too!)_ And the Germans were quite happy to use the ones left behind at Dunkirk. British Army used the type until the 1950s. Slightly modified copies were built by Ford in Canada, and in 1944 by Lancia. 😄Yes, actually, this was one of my favorite military vehicles when I was in to that.
How do I get this model? I want to buy one badly.
This is 3d printed at home. You can find the STL here. www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-werewolf-a-151759
Superb!
Never heard of this before,
In this video you had equal parts of X 21 and your gloss paint, have you ever experimented dropping the ratio to try to get a semi gloss?
Yes I have. I have found that around 20%-30% gives a nice satin almost leathery finish, but you need to adjust depending on the paint.
This old kit will still stand up to today's kits !
I've been building for 65+ years and this question has come and gone numerous times over the years. Masking was always an issue talked about and one thing was clear, work cleanly. poor surface prep, fuzzy edged old masking tape, using excessive amounts of paint from a rattle can, poor airbrush skills and paint mixing will be your downfall every time. Take your time and learn masking basic's and you won't need to pile on more paint. Yes I have tried this method and found it's just another layer of paint covering your surface details. Like all other model skills, practice, practice,....
cool video +1 Sub
As others have said, clear seems like extra work and layers, i was told many years ago, and have used may times with sucess to mask, then use the base coat to 'seal in the edge' before using the next layer and its always worked well.
I never considered it added a thickened layer haha.
DSPIAE shot them selves in the foot by not using a 1/8" shank ability in the tool. If they did they would sell like crazy.
Totally agree!!!
Thanks. I was wondering what the proper mixing ratio was.
I use a Proxxon. True it's more expensive but it's smaller than a Dremel and uses a reostat control so you can adjust the speed from very slow to light speed. You do need to use a Proxxon transformer for the rotary tool to plug into. I really like it more than any other tool of this type I've ever tried.
For that price, I'd think about a Dremel which is going to be better unless the size different is critical to your use.
Nice quality tool, but over priced for what you get especially for building basic model gets, you don't need to do that much drilling. It would be useful for grinding and sanding in small places but there are no tools made for it. With the price of model kits, ill invest my 50 bucks in one of those. It just first have enough tools for the bucks.
This does not work . There is no end to the tips and tricks in making plastic scale models. And most of them do not really work.
A really great tip! I've been able to up my game a LOT through a better understanding of mediums. I can't wait to try this - funny you should mention orange. Certain colors have always had saturation problems for me - but Tamiya is very nice and their orange and yellow really show out! Thanks for another tool in my belt!
Cool effects 🖌
Thanks!
Cool
This question may be a little off topic but - Where do you get those little containers that you used in the video?
Those are coffee creamer containers that I have cleaned out after I use them. I haven't found a place where I can just by them empty.
Nice!!🤔 I love getting 'Myths Busted/Resolved'!!! Question for a new myth..... do you need to clear coat an area that you apply decals on?? I deal with aircraft carriers and some of the decals are like the ones on the flight deck where helicopters could land.... it is a sparce decal but a Lot of film. 🤨 On a separate question: Do I gloss-/flat-coat before using a panel liner??🤨 Thanks for the current post.
The general rule about clear coating before applying decals is because of the decal setting solution. Most decal setting solutions can damage the paint as they contain mild solvents. Gloss coats are usually used as it makes it easier to slide the decals around. Same rule for panel liners, the gloss coat generally aids the capillary action of the panel liners to make it into the crevices. You can also reduce the outline of the decals by cutting away the excess film. Making good use of decal softening products can also help. Finishing up with flat varnish can help make the decals look painted on as well.
@@middlingmodeler Got It... So 'GlossCoat' first before applying decals and/or panel liner, then Flats if needed.👍👍 Do You recommend any brand... I Mostly use acrylic paints 'Vallejo Air', 'Tamiya', sometimes I use 'Mr. Color' acrylic. Would you use a Different brand if using a lacquer paint, I have 'Alclad 2'.🤨🤔 Thanks for the reply!!
I don't have much experience using lacquer, so I don't have a good answer there. Mostly I use acrylics. I tend to use either X-22 or Mr. Super Clear for gloss coating. For flat coats, my favorite is AK Ultra Matte varnish.
@@middlingmodeler W O W !!! Quick Response!! Cool Beans... I use that 'Mr. Super Clear', just started using it, it seems to work out Quite nicely for me as well!! 'AK Ultra Matte'.... I'll look into it. I Might Just 'Subscribe' to your Channel for your help and tips!! Thanks, again for Quickest Reply!!
@@Hey_MikeZeroEcho22P You are welcome! And thanks for the sub!
Science.....
That was good timing! I'm building this kit right now, so I'll take that advice about painting the gun in sub assembles. Thanks for posting the video and I'm enjoying the content on the channel Dan
Thanks! Enjoy the build!
i've mixed XF-21 with Future Floor Polish to create a dull cote. Now that Future is gone, I've sourced a new acrylic gloss finish. It works
I still have most of a liter of Future I bought around the turn of the century, but I've found AK interactive Gauzy a reasonable alternative. I believe it too is a re-packaged floor polish. What is your new gloss finish?
I don’t understand the initial question...there’s no reason to think you get no bleeding with the clear coat, you undoubtedly do...but it’s hidden/melts into the final clear coat that you apply over everything including your masked coat. And it does work. PS I like Alclad clear (not aqua) for this cause it sprays a nice thin, even wet layer.
Cool review 🎨🖌
Thank you! Cheers!
Very good video. Now for my question - If you are using the "Clears" to seal the tape to stop or reduce bleed of the darker color to the lighter color couldn't you use the base color to seal and stop the bleeding?
I’m new to this and I had heard of using the base color to do this, not a clear coat…great point and it would be helpful to test the difference between using base vs clear after masking.
Always love your videos, I'd appreciate it if you could make them a little more hands-on. (show us a clip of you putting on the chrome when you talk about it, and so on.) I'd really like to see how you make them in more detail. Cheers, and thanks for the great content!
You bet! I am trying to do a better job of filming the entire build process so I can share the entire experience. Hopefully I will get better at it as I learn. Thanks!
A really useful video, thank you. Nicely to the point, no fake drama, and you pronounce Tamiya correctly so all is good!!
This was really helpful. I’ve been using X-21 for decades, but never knew to go 50/50! That explains why I usually ended up with more of a satin look LOL
Glad it was helpful! Yeah, I think about and 80/20 mix tends to give a nice satin finish.
Just discovered your channel and it is amazing, exactly what I have been looking for. From the 1950's up to 90's with a break for military and family I took a long sabbatical. Retired I wanted to re-enter the hobby. However it was a lot of Rip van Winkle waking up in this new era . Kits prices, increased scale too much detailing but most of all materials that did not exist when I was building. So far I have viewed many of your videos and I'm still going. In addition to these issues, there is only one hobby shop that is primarily RC, but starting to carry plastic models. Otherwise I am limited to the internet for kits and supplies. I am definitely subscribing and continuing to search existing videos - they are so precise and to the point. Perfect timing just as I am ready to start my first kits. Best tutor for my re-entry. Cheers and Happy modeling.
Thank you so much for stopping by and congratulations on coming back to the hobby. It is a great time to be in the hobby! The quality and availability of kits these days is absolutely mind blowing. You might want to see if there is a local scale modelers club near you. Those can be a great way to pick up kits for bargain prices and even paints and other supplies sometimes. I have about a dozen or so kits that I picked up from my local club this year and I am really looking forward to building them. If that isn't an option for you, I make good use of the internet as well including SprueBrothers and AndysHHQ as well as Megahobby. I use Amazon if I have to, but I prefer to buy directly from the scale modeling outfits when I can. You should also check out @ChampionScaleModelling if you get the chance. He puts out some good videos as well when he has the time.
@@middlingmodeler Thank you so much for this new information, a tremendous help. I look forward to checking these out and get to back to building.
hazard paints O_o but they ar very very good ! if you spray a lot you need a mask and filtered booth. but the colors ar AAA.
Or you can add some baby powder to make glossy paint flat :)
This is what my dad did on his flying models in the 50s and 60s...mixed talcum powder (pure...modern baby powders contain oils, etc.) with his color dope.
Really nice work, great little videos. New sub for sure. Keep it going man.
Thank you so much!
First time seeing this March 6 2024….. I have this kit in the stash… Found a PHOTO ETCH made specifically for this kit… TAMIYA has quite a few 1/35 figure kits that are very compatible, can make a really nice INFANTRY ASSULT DIORAMA It’s nickname The little DOOR KNOCKER…. Your Vignette is nice, simple Perfect…. CHRIS 🇺🇸
Thanks for watching! Yeah, I would imagine there are loads of 1/35th figures out there that would go well with it. I almost put a metal barrel on it, but thought better of it after seeing the plastic one is perfectly adequate.
SUperb vignette, cracking job!
Thank you so much!
I love your videos! Do you plan on making any timelapses or build vids?
Thanks! I plan on including the full build as part of the builder's notes videos, just figuring out how to make it work in a reasonable way.
Thanks for the tip. I've seen the X-21 but wasn't sure how to use it.
Glad I could help!
Wonder if the Tamiya gloss could be mixed with flat paint to create a gloss color?@@middlingmodeler
No idea. I will have to try that some time and see. @@roberthenderson2580
@@roberthenderson2580 I have done it and it works to make flat colors satin/semigloss. You will never get it to be a true gloss because of the flattening agent already present in the XF paint.
This is a very old mold and have its issues, but i have fun building it in the past. Academy based their P-47 on this mold btw. For the best results in 1/72 scale, Tamiya is certantly the one, but Hobbyboss has the correct shape too (also avoid Revell)
I generally try to avoid Revell in general. I am definitely looking forward to building the Tamiya kits.
Awesome video …. What color did you use for interior ?
AK Real Color RC017.
Very nice, straight looking build. I like the restraint on the panel lines. Hs-129, kinda’ purpose built design.
I think ICM is going to be releasing a new 1/48th Hs-129 model next year.
Well tidy kit ,well tidy review.
Thank you so much!😃