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@@Shane-ce9fm I cut 3mm per pass on both v bit and end mill. I have never tried to do it all in 1 pass as I’m always quite conservative with my feeds, speeds and depth….. I have plenty of time and aren’t working to a deadline. His results are always excellent. One thing I will modify in future as I’ve seen his progress, is to split up the inlays. This board took so much pressure in the press as the inlay was so big but there was a couple of areas that could have been tighter if I’d have glued and pressed several smaller inlays. All learning.

@@jimrosseter7958 Thanks for your comment 👍🏻. Hexagons were 70mm across straight side to straight side or 80mm point to point. The circles inside the hexagons were 60mm diameter. Then inside this was the cut out for the PCB. The gap between hexagons filled with resin is 10mm. As for led strips, no I didn’t cut these down, however there was a slight overlap that I didn’t really bother about. The led strips have marked cut lines and there wasn’t one in the appropriate place so I left it. The little PCB the power supply plugs into is actually part of the kit you buy from moreboons. It’s identical to the other PCBs, except it has a usbc input as well. Power supply goes into this. The power supply was just a generic 5v 30A Amazon one (I think). But make sure whatever leds you buy the power supply matches some are 5v, some are 12v. Here’s a link to the likely one I bought. Good luck with making your table. It’s hard work but a good challenge! amzn.eu/d/hNQoa3H

@@120woodcraft Many thanks. I will let you know how I get on. Nice channel by the way :)

@@jimrosseter7958 let me know. If you film it, post a link on here👍🏻

@@gerryhope3931 between 7-9mm

@@120woodcraft Thank you

@@Dost-f9j it’s in the description: www.moreboons.com/products/touch-sensitive-smart-table-module. Good luck👍🏻

@@Alfa99tricoma99 I’ve not made one since that one. Might do it again!

@@MosheOjanga Wonderful compliment! Hope you watched it all… you clearly enjoyed it 😂

@@120woodcraft Watched it all. It forced you to become an electrician in a fortnight and understand why the Russians price was not exaggerated,,😁

@@SarabjeetSingh-cb4rs look at the description - I have a link to the sensors in there. 👍🏻

I most certainly use that for the majority….. but some is really impacted. I’ve tried but a craft knife is the only way for the stubborn bits 😢

No. The modules deal with the proximity sensing and also the time the led is on.

Give it a go. When you break it all down and take your time it isn’t that hard. Hopefully the electronic side of the table will be a lot smoother for you than it was for me now the modules are sorted. 👍🏻

Check the description. I suppose it could be made at home if you are decent at electronics.

Sounds nasty. I have a push stick but need to get in the habit of using it. Don’t fancy loosing fingers. 👍🏻

It’s made by a chap called Jazz CNC. Google him. 👍🏻

Thanks for your comment. I was very pleased how it turned out 👍🏻

I have tried an air gun on my compressor and while it shifts a decent amount, there is still a great deal of stubborn impacted chips in the base of the pocket. It’s a miserable job to pick out😂

@@120woodcraft Sounds like a lot of fun! I guess it's a part of those $1500 . How about turning the board upside down, putting a speaker on top of it and volume to the right. Or other means of vibration ( combined with suction)?

@@c3N3q an interesting thought! However, I’m pretty sure no matter what I end up trying, there’ll still be a chip picking session that needs doing 😢

@@120woodcraft 😖😩😫😵 Is it really that bad? If you're talking 7mm pocket for the inlay, is few tiny splinters on the bottom really such an issue? I would think once you press the top into the bottom the little chips get squished in between the walls... Anyway, don't envy you those picking hours.

Thanks for that. It turned out really well. The walnut looked particularly great - shame it’s hard to come by and expensive in the UK

I think it’s actually an induction sensor….. wouldn’t bet my life on it though 😂

This is the beauty of end grain chopping boards and deep inlays…. They can be cut on. If after several years they look a little tired, they can be sanded and refinished with no issue. Some like to keep things pristine though! You can always cut on the back!

You’d be surprised at your ability once you get your head around it. A steep learning curve but certainly doable for most…. My next video is going to be a simple project but very detailed on the process of initial design all the way to finished product…. Lots have asked for that.

@@120woodcraft are there any makes/models of concern you would recommend at a fair price as I don’t know good from bad

@@Thesobercarper I’ve used a range. Some cheap Chinese bits off Bangood which I still use to hog out material and some better bits. I’ve found a good middle ground are Spetool- got off Amazon.

@@120woodcraft thank you for that, I did actually mean cnc machines but I needed to know about the bits too thank you

@@Thesobercarper ha! As for machines I only have experience of one….. mine! And I would happily recommend that as I’ve had no issues whatsoever. Made by a chap called Dean (jazzcnc.co.uk). Couldn’t tell you about any other one.

I am going to do a video soon on the intricacies of creating my inlays as others have asked on the samurai chopping board video. I must say though that the design of this board was rather limited…. The badge for the fire service was taken from the web and I just simply created a vector from it. I didn’t actually design the badge.

Thanks for the reply and comments. You can see the new connections in the video but if you want a high resolution photo of the wiring I can provide…. Not sure how on UA-cam? Email?

Hmm. Did my post with my email go MIA?

@@leelindeman387 didn’t see it. Does UA-cam allow email addresses or does it auto delete?

@@120woodcraft damn YT. Tooked away my other comment and my other take with my email. Not giving up on this now 😄

@@120woodcraft followed you on IG. I'll write from there 😊

There are a lot of variables that can make things work… or not. The square ones (made by moreboons) did not work for me, but I did see videos of tables working with them. Where did you get yours? Are they identical?

@@120woodcraft I bought mine off Ali Express... I have just done another comparison to your video and while mine are very similar, they actually are not identical. Hopefully they work. either way I will be doing some testing.

@@sheldonives certainly having them in groups of 10-15 helped me somewhat rather than all in series.

Cheers! This was one of my early pieces, but still one of my favourites. 👍🏻

I like that. Certainly inspired me to try more intricate inlays.

I suppose I could. I haven’t listed the file on my Etsy page as the versions of Vectric Aspire don’t seem to play well with previous or future versions. What program and version are you using?

@@120woodcraft Hello, I'm currently using Fusion 360 but will soon be switching to aspire, I don't know which version yet because I'm not familiar with aspire yet.

@@Person_X82 I’m using an older version…. 8 to be specific. I have a mate who has a new version who tried to give me some toolpath files and it was not having it! If you do get Aspire, I’m certain that if my specific cut files won’t load, providing the vectors and exact project sizes, toolpath settings etc etc would be very easy to just type in to the newer version. What ever version is used, they basically do the same thing.

Thanks very much for your comment. Much appreciated. 👍🏻

I didn’t build this myself. There’s a chap called Dean who makes them. Top bloke who is very knowledgeable and helpful and builds strong. His website is www.jazzcnc.co.uk.

He sure is the master of end grain inlays….. was hoping for a comment from him 😂

I forgot to add in the description but have added several times in the comments when asked… www.moreboons.com/products/touch-sensitive-smart-table-module

From your video: “and I’ll include these in the links below so you can see exactly what was bought and where it was bought”. I seen the link you’re proving in the comment section. It’s for the pcb you used. Your wording in the video led me to believe that you were going to share links to the components you used. Thanks anyway I guess.

@@MostlyPosative-nj5ex I’m lucky you’re here as a proof watcher! I must try harder next time 😉

@@MostlyPosative-nj5ex I’ve now updated the description.

A CNC is great. They can do things in hours it would take weeks to do. They don’t replace normal woodworking, but they do help enhance it and take it to the next level. I’ve recently been trying new things with the CNC to help build my knowledge on it. Hoping to post more project videos soon 👍🏻

@@120woodcraft I can't wait to see more!

@@bca-biciclindcuaxel7527 there’s another board I made for a retirement gift on my channel. That turned out well too. In fact, being smaller, it was more difficult

Thanks for your comment….. I’d not hit this with a big meat cleaver, but it’s fine to use a knife on. End grain is perfect for cutting on. Much better than face grain which will mark much easier. Also the inlay is deep, so if after time it does get marred, it can be easily sanded back like new. 👍🏻

@@120woodcraft I know they are strong, but I see it more on a wall than on a table. There are paintings that do not look this good ! :)

@@bca-biciclindcuaxel7527 thanks!

Did you recreate the design and tool paths or purchase from #broinwood?

@@bbgakame recreated. I have no contact with Broinwood…. Hopes he would comment though!

I used about 3 litres of resin in total…. Some of that leaked though! As for the pigment, that was very unscientific. I just kept adding until I got what I thought looked right. Shone my phone torch through to check the opacity. To be honest I could have added more. I really wanted to only see a glow of each unit when activated, but you can definitely see the individual light of each led. But you don’t need much of that powder pigment - a random guess is 3g. Hardly made a dent in the pot I bought. Go for it…. Make one. I enjoyed it overall- even the problem solving!

Many thanks. It did turn out well I think. 👍🏻

I’ve had very good results. I have used a load of cheap Chinese cutters which are ok, but the 2 that I like more are spetool and Rennie. Both are a lot more expensive though. So if I’m just roughing out a load of wood I use the cheapo bits then move onto the more expensive ones for less hard work! I am gutted though when I make a mistake and break a £20 bit.

I never knew that. My only google research said he was a samurai leader….. he apparently makes sushi in Madrid now!

Yes, but only in Kill Bill movies. In real life he was a samurai. 🧐

Thanks for the kind words. You are right about the pocket. The plug I hit 3 passes. SD always 2mm then 3 passes up to FD 7mm. I’m going to make a video in a couple of weeks with detailed settings on my bits, Aspire settings and cutting of the pocket and plug. It will look so much easier when explained like that. Hard to convey in messages. 👍🏻

Many thanks for your comment 👍🏻

Many thanks for your comment. 👍🏻

Many thanks. This board was well received. 👍🏻

Thanks for the comment. Nice from a fellow maker!

Entered as v-bit. For the male plug I kept flat depth at 2mm (so this is what sticks out of the pocket) then did 3 passes - 2,5,7mm depth. I may do a video of my settings. But for me, the eureka moment is the press. Massive pressing force is key.

@@120woodcraftPlease do a video on the toolpaths, settings, setup, etc. Beautiful job!

@@btigenie I may well do that….. I’m busy doing some house jobs at the moment but that is a good idea for a future video👍🏻

@@120woodcraft At least maybe a pinned comment with some guidance on figuring the flat depths, types of bits, depth and passes, feeds and speeds, etc.

@@btigenie it’s all rather subjective….. especially speed and feeds….. I shall do my best to show my workflow and settings in a vid.

Many thanks. It turned into a labour of love. At one point I thought it was doomed!

I’ve never been to Madrid. If I ever do I shall visit Hattori Hanzo for a meal….. maybe if I show them my board I’d get a discount!

You can have this sitting on your worktop! And I’d love £3k for it, but I’m more realistic and simply want to make new projects…. I have it listed on Etsy for a mere £295. 120sqwoodcraft.etsy.com/listing/1681973882

Glad you think so!

I’ll just video a tree or a plank of wood for you next time 😂 There are many occasions when a simple design with natural wood is appropriate. But to not use wood to make different and interesting things, simple or complex is like staying in the dark ages. Some will be to your taste, some things will not. Check out some of the beautiful intricate inlayed veneers created over history……

Sounds like the opinion of someone incapable of doing this level work. 😂😂😂

@@jchawkjr2 😂

@@jchawkjr2 I ran CNC for 23 yrs doing R&D in the medical implant industry with +/- .00005 tolerance. CNC is not ART, sorry.