Відео

Thank you!

Thank you MayorOfUA-cam!!! Great user name, your highness! 😂

@@josetomasterananaya9067 Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed the video! I use a two-part urethane called SharkThane. It’s supplied by a company called Fiberlay. I believe they have multiple locations in the US. I would recommend Smooth-on as well as you can usually find that more readily on Amazon. Thanks for watching!

@@mach1monkey ty so much :)

Thank you!

Hm… maybe. I might change it up next time. Thanks for watching!

Hey Kev! Absolutely! This was just a demo of what can be done with printing a mold vs. gong through the process of making a high polished finished master then making a multipiece mold. THEN rotocasting it. Quick and dirty. If you look @crafsman -he did that with his lightbulb mold. Thank you for commenting!

Hey! You could use it for a small mold as it looks to have a very short pot life. I would recommend a minimum 5-7 minute pot life/ cure time to allow enough of the resin to sufficiently coat the inside of a larger mold. Thanks for watching!

Yep! A rotisserie would be great idea. All metal parts would be the start then an oven large enough to handle the rotation without hitting the top, bottom or sides. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Bom dia! I would suggest standard casting for the hand grips. Check out the Crafsman, he’s got some great tutorials on how to cast with soft urethanes. I’ve made grips in the past for my 76’ KZ400! I used a three part printed mold to make them. I would suggest an 70 durometer urethane for your grips. Have fun with them and use different colors!

Hah! Thanks for the critique, I agree! It was '"early days" and one of the first things I posted to YT. I've been watching a lot of Casey Neistat, Peter McKinon, and Potato Jet over the last 10 years. Hope to post more productive and subtle content. Thanks for watching!

Hello! That’s great! I would recommend a shore A urethane with roughly a 15-20 minute cure-time. 40 durometer if you want it “squishy” and 60 durometer if you want it more firm. Smooth-On KX Flex 60 Pourable Urethane Rubber Elastomer Trial Size a.co/d/iaf0sSf Or something similar should work. Double check the gel/ setup time as you really wouldn’t want to be spinning the rotomolder by hand for a hour. It is a good work out however. 🤣 Hope that helps!

Thanks Xander! Sure, I've sent a quite a few rotomolders to Europe. Just be aware that I can't control what international customs charges for import fees. I plan on making another batch in the next couple weeks. I'll be sure to let you know when they are available!

It's the same process and device. One is wood, the other is metal. I can put my rotomolder in an oven @ 250F and rotomold ABS thermoplastic in a metal mold. Metal rotomolders are more durable.

Hello! Sure what would you like to know?

Hey Gianpaolo, sorry for the late reply. Send me an email info@mach1monkey.com

Ok i can write mail

@@mach1monkey i write yhe mail

Yup. It's automated slush casting, not Rotamolding BTW.

Yes indeed, imagine how they make kayaks, plastic gas cans, coolers/ice chests, Bigwheels, big play sets etc. It’s exactly the same process minus having to insert it into an oven to melt the plastic. The resin I chose solidifies with a chemical reaction instead of a thermal reaction. You could put it in an oven at a low temp and cast wax parts if you wanted to or you could make a metal or ceramic mold and heat it up with a torch.

The idea is to cast parts that you want to be hollow. That can be a lamp, piggy bank, vinyl toy, diy pelican case, mask, helmet, custom computer case, urethane rubber sports ball, protective gear, bumper covers. It's really up to your imagination.

Reynolds is definitely the coolest spot but the others carry somewhat more industrial supplies. The aerospace materials and composites from Fiberlay are awesome.

@ironfistcontent

First question no. Second question it’d probably be less expensive to do a single one in fiberglass due to size. For more than 10 parts def no, find a rotational molder.

@@doncallangher6177 not sure if I follow, so your saying that if I'm making more than 10 pieces of boat fenders to have them made? I would like to create a custom made pvc boat fender thing, The inflatable part is important as it allows it to be deflated for storage or shipping and can easily be inflated when at right destination. How should I go about getting it done? Thanks in advance

@@legacygym1 Here are the basics. You didn't mention the size of your boat fender thing, but for example, a kickbox base on a Century Wavemaster would probably cost around 10-20K built by a roto molder, stateside. If you made something that large yourself it literally becomes a full time job. And would require shop resources like table saw, band saw, sanders etc. Not to mention lots of materials. You have to put a value on your time and cost of tools. Rotational molding is a good choice for rigid materials like that kickbox base. The base comes out of the mold sealed, then a secondary operation is done to install a cap or plug to allow the base to fill with sand or water. Or leave it sealed and it stays an air filled flotation device like a buoy. However, flexible materials are unavailable for rotational molding. If you want a boat fender similar to a large, hot water bottle, with a thick rubber wall that can be inflated/deflated many cycles, I don't believe that's possible. I suppose you could take a couple thick uncured rubber sheets, build a form shaped like your boat fender thing and make something, but that's beyond my pay level. Again, lots of labor and trial and error likely. And, you'd need a large oven to vulcanize it.

Don, that’s some excellent advice! Larger parts do need a larger rotomolder 😊. I have however rotocast inflatable bladders with 60 and 70 durometer urethane. Just like Don mentioned you can embed a plug into the mold. I used volleyball valves in mine so I could use any standard needle inflator. You can order the inflator valves off of Amazon I believe. I need to do a video on that…. Thank a for the question!

That’s a great tip/trick! Works really good with silicone/ urethane molds as well! There was a slight undercut where I split my mold. Between that and the direction of the coarse printed layer lines it was a bit of a struggle. I could sand it down some more to help get it out as well.

Definitely anime inspired! I’d like to do some more work in blender to get it more exaggerated and d0 the rest of the body!

Thank you! I probably need a few more videos for that. Hopefully 2023…?

Thank you! Glad you liked it, hopefully more to come soon!

It’s a kit I make, cnc plywood, custom cast parts, 3D printed parts, aluminum rod, bungee cords, nuts, bolts and screws. Maybe one day I’ll do a “Crafsman” how I make it but for now I’m just selling ‘em. Thanks for watching!!!

In case you're still looking for instructions on building a rotocasting machine, my man Robert Tolone has you covered: ua-cam.com/video/0IsWzmWj-5o/v-deo.html

No plans as of yet. I have been thinking about it but at the moment it takes some custom tooling to build them. I do have them for sale if you go to Mach1monkey.com I'm in the middle of building a small batch right now. Thank you for the compliment! I post my more recent work on Instagram @mach1monkey. I hope to have a few more videos up soon! Take care!

@@mach1monkey Sweeeeeeet. Good to know you sell them. I was thinking aluminum frame and a bit larger for an electric motor I have. But those are perfect for small polyurethane castings. I'll bookmark your webstore. Thanks for the tip 👍

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