Відео

Take the engine to pieces and find out what has gone wrong. It is not difficult. Take off the cylinders and pistons, turn the engine upside down and undo all the screws on the bottom of it. You can now separate the lower and upper parts of the crankcase and gearbox, and at this point you should see what is wrong. I suspect a broken cage in one of the main bearings, causing the bearing to jam. If it is one of the outer bearings it should be a straightforward job (if it is the left one you will need a slide hammer to pull the alternator rotor off the shaft). If it is the middle bearing you need to press the crankshaft apart, which is quite a complicated job. The left and right cranks are not splined or keyed at 180deg like on Yamaha twins, so you have to mark them before dismantling so you can make sure they are still at 180deg on reassembly.

Me and my dad drove these for gravedigging for Wandsworth borough council in the 70s and 80s

But it didn't RUN!!!

great video, very helpful thank you, one question does the rectifier have to be isolated from the frame ?

This is absolutely fantastic. In trying to make one myself so this is going to help with that. Thank you for uploading this video 👌

The first security blink and your clearing of the throat match perfectly

It's a terrible state of affairs. Supposed to be a workhorse you can rely on to earn you money not cost you all the time. Give me a 2.5 DI banana manifold engine anyday 👍

Great to see straight-forward explanations. I will have to watch more of these.

The AMC two strokes were rubbish and they had to revert to Villiers in the end.

Suzuki Cci system bikes cannot be run on premix like other Jap 2strokes, as the bottom end bearings don't get lubed the same and it will cause catastrophe.

I am up to this stage with my rebuild and think I will go this way with the bridge rectifier, how did you mount it to the frame??

them crowns are cooked

Did you find the problem

Hi derek i love to see thease 70s bike's going back on the road it bring's back so many happy memories.

Derek - have you ever raced it at the cyclekart meetings? Is there much difference to the GX200? 👍🏻

When transit 2.2 doesn't start when hot , in most cases it's fuel pomp ( 90 % cases ) Second reason can be fuel injectors

Great idea!

Thank you for this film Derek, its helped me greatly . Its people like you. In sheds everywhere, that keep British know how alive .

Is that a crack in the carb manifold behind the mounting nut? Any chance of a link to the exact carb it is?

If the saw was stripped right down previously(had the crankcase split) there is 2 locating tube dowels which locate both halves of the crank cases if either one or both are missing the cases will not align properly and will result in the issue you are having with the miss alignment of the 2 halves. Crank case pressure test should be .5 bar if it holds this for some time all is good. The "4 stroking" is normal as the ign coil has a rev limiter (electronically controlled internally) this clips the spark at roughly about 9,800- 10,000rpm (engine speed) to prevent the blade over speeding and bursting the cutting disc.This gives the sound of 4 stroking, when under load this disappears and the engine will sound like a normal 2 stroke engine...hope this helps in future repairs.

I get what your saying in the beginning of the video regarding the spindle for the wire and also the rollers for the feed. Personally I think if you can't figure out the method of installing the wire and things then you need to go back and watch some UA-cam videos as that should let you know that you dont have the required basic knowledge to be using a machine like that in the first place. I understand this is a beginner welder however some level of common sense should be a minimum requirement

I bought a Stihl ts400 with a new carburator and top engine part . IT WILL NOT Start , i took off my carburetor on my other ts400 , no joy . Even a sniff of easy start , only once in 20 mins , did it fire up for 10 seconds . Then i got to thinking has the New top engine section been assembled correct . As by then i was thinking "Air is leaking " somewhere . I shall let you know the out come in about 3 weeks .

I had one of these many years ago when they were first available. I’m 65 now, but I do remember the oil pump stopping and the crankshaft had snapped in half sorry about that

Somebody probably poured oil in when it was stored .maybe

Hi Derek. Thanks for the video. Answered a lot. My 5TA clutch has always been very hard to operate and it is a very close adjustment between making it OK to operate against having no slip. A friend with same bike the clutch is easy and I have always wondered why mine is not.

How do you even remove the seat from a gt250 ram air 😂

Need to check live data and see if the fuel pressure is right mine is doing exactly same just done the scv stoped it from surging but when its hot its completely dead

THANK YOU

And the moral of the story? Don't attitude repair of oil pump without reference to a manual.

What piston did you find to fit

Problem with these is there is no value when it's finished. Only made them for 2 years and no parts or very few available

Hello Derek, I had a similar problem with a 61 5TA/T00 bitsa I only got it half decent with a mixture of old and new parts after months of trouble, One modification I made was to cut the pushrod in two and use a ball bearing of the same size as the push rod width taking care to remove a similar amount from the rod overall length as the bearing and make the ends flat and smooth. This greatly improved the action. It seems that due to poor initial design the rather flimsy clutch pushrod bends slightly when used causing it to bind slightly in the hole/tube that it goes through the engine temp causing this to vary due to expansion making adjustment even worse the ball bearing seems to go a fair way to stop this, before I did this I also had a clutch that both slipped and dragged randomly, all good now though, And I have to say the method of spring adjustment by pushing down the spring and twisting a notch is just daft. Kindest Regards Tony

Nice Job 😀😊

Good work Derek, that is a very rare machine indeed. I've got a 250 sport special. They are very light bikes.

This van has been and still is a nightmare, its had a new battery, starter, turbo, cam and crank sensors, intercooler and timing chain. The original fault was it would not start sometimes when it got hot. then we had a runaway and a new turbo fitted, a new timing chain was fitted because the garage said the timing was out it had new crank and cam sensors I fitted a new battery and starter because it sounded like it was struggling to crank over when hot. Since the cam sensor was fitted it will not rev over 2000 rpm and surges. Before the cam sensor was fitted the only problem was the none starting when hot, we are going to fit a new MAF sensor next just to try it. WE have bought one of these readers ,There are no fault codes showing. It went into Fords and they said there was a timing issue and an injector issue but wanted a blank cheque do diagnose it £1600 for injectors and £1000 to check the timing. Any ideas we are sick to death of this van its not been on the road for three months.

Thanks for sharing, I have the key for my 77 MGB but the boot is still stuck shut. I'm going to give this a try. 🤞

My favorite year

Good method.

What was the red bike in the back ground 😳

Hi derek.great vidio interesting.just a quick one mind how you go with the spacers you have put on top of the springs under the adjusting nuts.the nuts are supposed to have pips on which back up to the spring ends to stop them rotating off.will make a mess if they come off.yes there is alot of miss matched stuff out there and aload of rubbish to.i orderd some springs when building mine only to find the springs had been wound the wrong way thus the pips had nothing to back up to .

This is a video of the first fitting of the carb ua-cam.com/video/-7zABn8Tl18/v-deo.html

What exact carburettor is it?

I had same thing happened to me in the day. On a GT 380. It was a failure on the centre oil pipe .

Peckham spring comes to mind.

What a great video! Thank you for the baseline explanation that will help me on so many different projects!

I just took my GT 250 petcock apart and yes there is a brass looking spring right there. You are pretty smart to figure that out with the absent spring. Do you know if there are any other petcocks that will work on this bike? Can’t find rebuild kit and new one is $400 U.S.

Thought you still need to use the zener diode with them?

Ultrasonic Clean the Carbs and Install Newer Needle and Seat Valves worked on My 1973 GT250K Suzuki Twin

I thought the old Lucas 6v systems used 3 pairs of stator coils, 1 pair connected for lights-off use, then the other 2 connected through the light switch for lights-on use, so it's important to know which of your stator wires is which.

It's a James, not a Francis Barnett. 🤔