Відео

@@steverherb thing practically plays itself. Probably need a little adjustment. Slight fret buzz on the d string every now and then

@@walterhaines1309 once winter comes

@@happygolucky6331 the back of the neck has the same finish as the front

They have some awesome guitars. I plan on getting a Dr Z X-ray to pair with it and I am going to make a custom steel humidity controlled display case for it with led lighting and plexi glass door done by Harbor Metal Art

Gorgeous. Haven’t gotten into gretsch so much. What’s the significance of this model?

@@zz-.- The Gretsch Penguin guitar is a unique and iconic instrument, standing out from similar guitars due to its distinctive features: 1. *Unconventional body shape*: The Penguin's streamlined, teardrop-shaped body, designed by Jimmie Webster in the 1960s, sets it apart from traditional guitar shapes. 2. *Hollow body with sound post*: Unlike most hollow-body guitars, the Penguin uses a sound post to connect the top and back, enhancing sustain and resonance. 3. *Patent Applied For (PAF) pickups*: The Penguin often features Gretsch's PAF humbuckers, known for their rich, balanced tone and minimal hum. 4. *Gretsch's "Zero Fret"*: The Penguin has a zero-fret nut, allowing for improved playability and reduced string wear. 5. *Luxurious appointments*: Typically, the Penguin features high-end materials like ebony, rosewood, and mother-of-pearl, making it a visually stunning instrument. 6. *Limited production*: The Penguin was produced in relatively small numbers, adding to its exclusivity and collectibility. 7. *Artist associations*: The Penguin has been used by notable artists like Brian Setzer, Eddie Cochran, and Billy Gibbons, further solidifying its reputation. These unique characteristics combine to make the Gretsch Penguin a highly sought-after guitar among collectors and players who appreciate its distinctive tone, style, and history.

@@cameronschwartz thanks for sharing. I will look more into Gretsch, very pretty✌️✨

electric noise. Need a usb isolator. Shorten your ground cable/work lead to only as long as u need it. Move your plasma cutter as far away from your control box as you can. Make sure no cables are crossing over each other where possible. Ground directly to your work peice. Add an independent ground to the table. If you do all these and you still have problems that proves resides in the control box not your plasma cutter or peripherals

So the manufacturer actually wants u to remove the bolt where the bearings are that the pulley slides on. There is a risk of overstretching the spring and it will no longer disengage the belt.

Not long. I’d say 40 min including my bumbling around time doing it my first time

Need to buy the cpc connector separately

I’m not certain on that one. My machine came with a standard torch and a gouging torch so I didn’t have to worry about it.

Tony this is my plan maybe with some switches. I need to get the old pin out and try to figure out where to get an identical one for the #8 hole.

No I would need to buy a machine torch if u want straight up and down orientation.

@@cameronschwartz Thanks. I had already bought a pencil style machine torch!

Standard 120. It’s capacitor discharge so it doesn’t take much power but limited on duty cycle. I think 17 studs a minute. Metal art signs is what I use it for

@@cameronschwartz That is pretty cool. We used them in the shipyard to secure insulation to the bulkhead. I sure you saw them shipboard.

2 3/4” max. Even the with thicker stuff I recommend making two passes at different depths for better results

@@cameronschwartz gotcha

On one side it was successful, but one side it did not work well and I had to use more on the seal

@@cameronschwartz I’m going to attempt it, sounds better than, flooded water. Thank you!

That MD seal sucks!!

Where did he buy this at

Just use Borax. I spent a lot of money on this Sterling Cool stuff and wish I didn't. If you wipe down your machine after each use and change the water out as needed, borax works great. Works just as good as the expensive stuff just doesnt cost as much. Only issue with borax is if you dont wipe down your machine after each use, you get crusty dried up borax on your equipment. Dont waste your money.

No issues still works like a champ

Hand torch.

@@cameronschwartz Just received my Crossfire with THC and I'm on the verge of purchasing my 45xp. Do I need ohmic sensing consumables?

@@dave7203 regular consumables. Same as hand cutting EXCEPT the shield. You can any to get Mechanized shield instead of drag shield. Don’t use the drag shield, it will destroy your consumables . U will get a manual with the plasma cutter and it lays out the consumables needed really well and had cut charts. The only setting you will differ on is pierce delay. U and a couple fractions of a second to the pierce delay Consumables regular 220817 220854 220941- bulk pack 228765 220842 - bulk pack 228767 220857

I now have an 80 gallon husky compressor. My prior compressor was no where near the size needed. What u need is a compressor that has 2x the CFM rating your plasma cutter manufacturer calls for

I have another video on converting a hand torch to a machine torch for the Hypertherm 45xp

Sure thing shoot

@@cameronschwartz i have the table together and made a few cuts from the share file on langmuir website. I have all of the software installed but I’m having issues with the post processor. i’m trying to figure out what folder I need to put that in so the software and the table can communicate with each other. I am also trying to figure out how to get images off-line and convert them into a G code using auto desk fusion or inkscape so i can make cut. would you have any suggestions or links that may be able to help me??

Buy sheetcam for post processing. Best thing I ever did and super easy to use. Lots of UA-cam videos on it. Also sheetcam trace to bitmap for converting images to dxf ready files

@@cameronschwartz I will. Thank you so much!!