Відео

What an incredible video! I was diagnosing my Swiss cheese filled cooling system much the same way you did. Except your version was rated , “E FOR EVERYONE”. I am very great full for your version. All the best in your future endeavours!

Love you

Not hard to get them to work and they work well out here in Texas!

Cheap enough, and can't hurt. Worth a try.

I tried this for deer in my garden. I think it worked. Did not repel turkeys or frogs.

I hope it works!

Nothing like clean mice. lol

dude it's not supposed to make noise just change the damn thing

@1markejx brings up a very good point. There is a bunch on non-essential stuff in the video. To make the video shorter which would you, as the viewer, would you prefer: Should I: 1) Delete the non-essential portions or 2) Keep all the video however, 5x speed through the non-essential portions. Please let me know.

Dude do some editing. No need to show every turn of the screwdriver.

recording 24/7?

I look forward to knowing how you like the new battery system.

Great video! Btw you can just set it to reserve and it will drain everyrhing out. The fuel tank is one compartment. You can imagine the 'reserve' and 'on' to be 2 straws sticking up arranged at different heights. (Reserve all the way at the bottom, 'on' about 1/4 of the way up the tank. Once the height drops below the 'On' straw, no more gas can flow. By turning to reserve, you open the reserve straw and allow the rest of the gas to flow out. If you open the reserve from the beginning, all the gas will just flow to the reserve straw. Hope this helps!

There's no question that lipo4 or lithium batteries are the only option. They are extremely cheap now. A single 12 volt 100amp hour lithium battery is around 200$, but why choose 12 volt? You want 120v power so getting closer to that voltage is more efficient. Upgrade to 48 volt battery bank and a good victron 3,000 or 5,000 Watt inverter dependent on your needs for a 30 amp or 50 amp rv service. Your camper will buck down power for 12 volts from 120. You don't need solar panels or a charge controller unless you want to upgrade later. Run your generator into the inverter to charge batteries. Your generator will always be charging the battery bank regardless of what power your using or not. Id recommend a server rack 48 volt lithium Batts like aolithium, eg4 is good with breakers and spike voltage suppressors, fire suppression system and about 15 safety features, ECT.

What you don't realize now is that your manual screwdriver takes at least twice as long as an impact driver. Meaning you would need to waste more than 0.460 watt-hours of energy. Not only is the impact driver faster & better, it also allows you to rest flatter on the ground while removing/installing the power panel. While it is true that an impact driver is much heavier than a manual screwdriver there's no need to keep it in the 5th wheel while driving. No worries you do not need to scroll between any screens to use the driver. Worth the $80-$90 cost. I hope this helps!

What you don't realize now is that your 230 amp hour lithium (LFP or aka LiFeP04 chemistry) battery will have a load run time twice as long as a lead acid battery. You would need 460 amp hours of lead acid batteries to equal the output of the 230AH lithium battery. Not only does a lithium battery start out at a higher voltage, say 13.4 volts resting, it has a much flatter discharge curve than lead acid. You will be surprised that the voltage will stay above 13.0 volts even after heavy use. The lead acid batteries drop in voltage after heavy use such as a microwave oven and don't recover. After a heavy load, the lithium voltage will stabilize at a much higher voltage after you remove the load. Lithium batteries also recharge much faster than lead acid. The thing you need to be aware of is that LFP batteries can be destroyed if they are charged in below freezing environments. There are some quirks to LFP batteries but you definitely made the right decision. Make sure you put proper fuses and disconnects where needed. Also, in my projects, I tend to use the 500 amp shunt Renogy battery meters. They make a nice display with everything there on one screen including amp hours remaining, amps drawn, voltage, watts being drawn, and run time available in hours and minutes at the current inverter load condition. It constantly recalculated the time to fell discharge. You do not need to scroll between screens. EVERYTHING is there on the display. Worth the $80-$90 cost. Also, the Renogy shunt battery meter can tell you visually if the battery is charging from 30 feet away. The screen brightens and dims once a second when net amps are flowing into the battery. The time function also lets you know how long it will take to get to 100% charge in hours and minutes. This is an accurate gas gage for your battery and you will find its readings reliable. They make an additional Bluetooth unit as well, a BT-1 or BT-2 to read from your phone app. I have them both and rarely look at them on my phone. If you go with solar later you will need a charge controller between the panels and the battery. You feed power through the battery shunt so that the panel meter reads both directions, charging and discharging. MPPT types of charge controllers are the best. I have maybe a dozen charge controllers and favor the Renogy Rovers. They come in 30,40, 60, and even 100 amp units. They take care shutting off the charge when the battery is at 100%. I hope this helps!

Awesome!

talk talk talk,

I have one i converted to propane with gas and i start on gas then switch to propane after turning gas off, it seems to start easier on gas

Wowwwyyyy gaskets, I've got carburetors from their and never gaskets and instructions. The negatives i have with many carbs are adjustments some have none. Propane reviews i seen say a good 10 year span but i feel longer

Thanks for a very helpful educational video.

Did you replace the butyl?

Woodworking Beginner: New - Update. This test is only if you want to saw with precision with a miter saw.(test is not intended for rough and hard work). Tips and Test: Read this first before you buying a miter saw! It's better to know than not to know. Important to know if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a VERTICAL line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. First option: handle vertical positioned above the saw blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact/ Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH / Ridgid MS255SR 10-inch / Evolution Fury3-S / Evolution R255SMS / Metabo HPT C10FSBS / Hitachi C10FSB / Hitachi C10FS. Second optie: handle horizontal positioned above the saw blade / Evolution R185SMS / Evolution F255SMS / Evolution RAGE3R255 SMS3 . (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). (If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed). Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand or finger on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing. (test is completed). Conclusion: Therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned VERTICAL in line above the saw blade. The second option is the handle positioned HORIZONTAL in line above the saw blade. Remember this, the test is only about torsion and nothing else how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing, you better not go for that. (the choices are yours). Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner... P.S. When you measure the vertical 90 degrees angle square (Digital Level Box) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing.

What a fun surprise

You have built a great channel and I enjoy your enthusiasm. I just bought one of those kits but with the regulator from “V power” and had success. The regulator they supply is apparently a higher volume, fixed pressure type and seems to work great from starting to load.

What kind of baseball faux leather?

What an easy fix when you know how. I have the same saw so now I know how to set mine thanks to you. Thanks

I’ll take the old blue all day every day!!

You know how to do so many things! If you don't know how, you figure it out 😊

If you square the blade in will not work right, if at all. They are made to be round. lol

I did this about three years ago with my 2001 Chevy Astro that had a broken outer door handle. Drilling that hole is the only way to get that bolt off, so I highly recommend this method. I did take the whole door panel off first before watching videos and realizing that top bolt is almost impossible to get to without the extra hole. I ordered a round plastic piece to cover it up, plugged it in the hole, and it looks great ❤.

Thank you Sir

Fuel pump failure is a very common problem on the GM vans, especially the ones with the spider fuel injection and most often caused by running the vehicle with less than a half a tank and the pump starts to overheat and fails and contamination in the fuel and the only thing you can do is replace it

GlAd it worked well

bought that harbor freight sprayer few years back for 50 bucks, used it to paint kitchen cabinet faces and all the doors in my house as well as my 16 foot garage door. the thing worked great, the key thing is correct paint viscosity an keeping it clean between use which is a piece of cake at least with water based. probably a slight overthinning is called for, the included viscosity cup is handy to be consisten.

Thank you for posting this. I love listening to audiobooks on my long drives. I'm going to give this a try

Here in my area, the price of concrete is through the roof. This machine is a game changer.

Another video said "adjust sparkplug gap to 0.025 inches for propane or natural gas."

Lets get to work.

Please enjoy this happy positive comment to help tickle your algorithm. I recently found your channel and I enjoy your episodes keep them coming.

I have the same table saw and I had problems with the motor also. The motor would buzz and pop the circuit breaker. I checked the switch and the wiring and it all pointed towards the motor. So I took the motor off the mount to take it somewhere to get checked out. But before I disconnected the wiring with the motor laying on top of the saw I plugged it in one more time and it worked fine. I remounted the motor and it's been fine ever since. I guess I scarred it that it was going to be operated on.

Such a simple fix! That's awesome.

I HATE THAT TYPE OF ECHO VOICE

You are on the right track. I didn't read a lot of the comments but here are my 2 cents worth. It is a trial and error learning curve. I've poured a lot of mud out of a truck. The auger system of mixing is way different than a conventional mixer. The consistency of the mud changes very quickly to the point that if you don't work the mud it gets very stiff. I was going to say the mud gets hard, however stiff works better. If the mud gets stiff, and it will, you can manipulate it back to workable. (Work it with a tool or move it around with your feet.) With this said I have to add I have never had good luck with Sakrete. So I don't use it. Now and again I have had mix issues with Quikrete where there is not enough cement or too much. Not enough gives a rocky mix that is hard to work. For the most part Quikrete works the best for me. Nail on the head regarding the angle of the auger. This is a case for quickly adjusting the water when you know the angle changes. If I remember right, if the auger is tilted up the mud gets stiff, if it is pointed down it gets wetter. Short story is you have to monitor the water all the time. Just a tip, I have used the nozzle to inject water at the auger if the mud is too dry. The pressure is a factor also. Part of the adjusting issue till you get it just right. Oh and another tip. I understand the not wanting to put fill in and just using concrete. The only time "some" concrete contractors will not grade with fill is when the customer is paying for the concrete.

Nice!

Way to figure it out! Hopefully this will save people time and money when they go to replace theirs.

It works great!

These work so well!

My JD is the same.

Ya skipped a whole lot there, just screwing the carborator on, then staring it, then saying so easy. That's like me saying here is V8 engine. I just got loom at this mustang body I have here how hard could it be then me starting it