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Agreed, I don't feel vacuum is accurate enough of a test. It was one of the injector rebuild vendors where I obtained the flow rates. Can't remember the specific vendor, but I remember seeing the specs in more than one place. My FSM alludes to a couple but it's still quite vague.

Glad the video was helpful and gave you the confidence. Thank you for watching. Mike

For this particular job I had the engine supported from underneath using a floor jack. For others I've used a topside engine support while removing the engine mount.

Thank you. Yes, quality is hard to find these days, but it is out there. I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment. Thank you. Mike

Agreed AJ. My career has been in the industrial maintenance field and a clean environment is not always possible, but we try to keep things as clean as we can. However, there's no excuse one can country their environment. Thanks AJ.

Thank you for taking the time to watch my videos and congrats on your new to you Country Coach. Country Coach makes an excellent coach. You won't regret getting a Jeep as a toad as they tow so well, easy to set up and are so much fun taking off-road. Just remember what Jeep stands for; Just Empty Every Pocket. 🤣 We had our coach painted at Mike's Custom Paint in Bremen, IN back in 2017. They did a very nice job. Mike

The driver's side just pulls out. There is a retainer ring on the internal splines of the shaft like most traditional transaxles. Use a prybar and lightly & evenly pry between the flange and the housing and it should pop out.

I'm sorry, I have not used the PPE high flow manifolds and cannot answer that.

Sorry, I'm not taking on any more work for the time being. I'm buried and trying to get caught up, but I appreciate the interest.

Party numbers are in the description.

Thank you and thank you for taking the time to watch. Mike

It is a sequence much like tightening a wheel bearing, backing off, then tightening again. Some FSM's state to do this on fasteners as a form of evenly distributing force by allowing components to "take a seat" while tightening to minimize the risk of uneven clamping.

I have heard of people drilling and tapping a hole to do just that. However, personally I don't feel that is the proper way to clean the carbon from the vanes. In my opinion the issue is more about the lack of clearance between the casting and the unison ring more so than the vanes themselves. By adding some clearance to the unison ring this issue will be less of an issue down the road, once the carbon is mechanically removed and the vanes and unison ring freed. If you choose to drill and tap a hole during the rebuild process then feel free. If I ever have the turbo carbon up in the future, I'll just plan on a repeat cleaning process. Thank you for taking the time to watch. Mike

@zmotorsports62 yes I am planning on a complete turbo tear down and cleaning as in your video. While tore down this is when I thought about tapping the hole. As in your video you joked about driving your truck like an old man and not hot rodding it to clean soot build up. I am 72 so most of my hot rod days are gone. Problem is after the rebuild, I'll probably still drive the same. I do plan on clean (polishing) the unison race as you did. I still don't know why this isn't a machined surface. Thank you for your response.

I do not recall any crush washer between the holdings.

Using the balancer is fine IF, there is nothing restricting the engine from easily being raised. You are basically tilting it with the pivot point being the transmission mount. It's when people forget to disconnect something or there is something binding and they continue to crank up on the balancer. That's where the damage comes from. Thanks for watching and for commenting. Mike

@ Makes a lot of sense…thank you! 👍🏻

@johngreen2510 you are very welcome. Thanks again for taking the time to watch. Mike

Thank you.

Thank you for the kind words Ernie . I know a lot of people that put the center steer shock or steering stabilizer on their Monaco/Roadmaster chassis, however, I feel like they are merely a Band-Aid or masking the real issue with the Roadmaster RR8R chassis. It would take too long to go into the real opportunity with the RR8S Roadmaster chassis. Although it is a great chassis, it does have one inherent issue, and that is with the control arm vs. panhard bar placements. You could also look at putting the Atro bushings in the control arms, but I really didn't notice any great difference. There is an entire thread on irv2.com pertaining to this subject, but the short answer would be to look into a product called the Monaco Watts Link. Although my coach is on the Roadmaster S-Series chassis (tag axle) which aids in handling tremendously, I still fabricated a Watts Link for mine about 10 years ago, before they were commercially available and it made even a slight difference in how well mine was handling before. I have a couple of videos on my channel pertaining to how I fabricated and installed my Watts Link and gave a brief overview of how it works and what it is intended to correct. I've had mine installed for about 10-years and approx. 50k miles and at this point I would put mine up against anything on the road as far as handling characteristics, even the top tier coaches. Thanks for taking the time to watch and congratulations on your Windsor, they are great coaches. Mike

I agree that center steer stabalizer is a bandaid but I inherited it so ill use it. I also thought of making my own watts system and see how that works. Apparently according to the build sheet I have a RB8S chassis which I think is the same as a RR8S

I suggest you go online and grab a copy of the factory service manual for your specific model. Pay specific attention to the sequence of operation to determine where in the sequence yours is failing. When these units power up calling for heat, it is the blower motor that actually drives the fuel pump, the fuel pump does not run independently. The blower motor comes on as a purge cycle and then the igniter will start sparking before the fuel valve opens. All this is timed perfectly and it's something is breaking down in the sequence it will fault out. If the blower motor is running, the fuel pump is turning UNLESS, you forgot to make sure the coupler was in place between the two. Yes fuel pressure is preset but it is also adjustable in the event that it is low or high. It is hard to diagnose remotely but make sure you have spark. You didn't mention anything about spark and if the blower motor runs fuel pressure comes up and there's no spark it will time out and default.

Part #'s added to description.

@ you’re awesome!!!!!

Thank you very much, the interview and write-up was very much an unexpected surprise. Glad the video was helpful, the water pump replacement is pretty straightforward. Thanks again for watching and for the comments. Mike

I'm sorry, I cannot remember if it came threaded or not. But I do not recall having to force threads into anything. Thank you for watching and glad the video was helpful. Mike

Thank you for the kind words. Glad to hear that you liked the video as well as others. Mike

No. You can but I generally don't. I will add a very thin film of sealant to the bearing cap if I notice any scratches or gouges in the mating surfaces.

Not sure how much that would run off the top of my head, this was my son's truck. I'm not taking on any additional work at this time, but thank you for your interest and thank you for taking the time to watch. Mike

Sorry, I can't picture what line you're talking about. Maybe a swivel fitting is leaking? Glad the video was helpful. Thank you for watching. Mike

​@@zmotorsports62 Thanks, I'll have to send a picture to a diesel shop, it's common but not knowing what the unit they go into is the problem. I'm assuming it's a manifold for airbags.

Congrats on the coach. I can't say about the Shell Spirax as I am not familiar with that fluid. I would look at the manual for your particular coach as Monaco did use Dexron III in some models. However, starting around 2001/2002 model years, generally in the Dynasty and up they put Transynd fluid in the transmission. Transynd is manufactured by Castrol but more importantly is the oil's classification. Anything TES-295 or equivalent will meet Allison's recommendations. There is now a new Allison classification of TES-668 that will also work as it is reverse engineered to be compatible with TES-295. Hope that is helpful and thank you for taking the time to watch. Mike

@zmotorsports62 just asking. I have to put my trl brake controler. Did you know if we have all the wires somewhere in front or i have to pass 2 (blue) wires for back to front. Don't know where i can find exactly

@foxychevy Monaco/Roadmaster on later models ran wiring for brakes from the rear to the front. However on the older models (<2005 I think) they only ran a few small gauge wires from rear to front, not large enough for carrying brake current. I ran a 10-gauge wire for mine as I ran multi-axle trailer brakes with our race trailer. They did run a couple of 3/4" rigid pipes along the frame which are nice to run wires in and keep them out of harms way, however you have to hunt for them as they're usually covered in spray foam so locating them can be fun.

I'm sorry I don't. I did a complete timing belt, water pump and tensioner replacement a while ago on the wife's TL but didn't record it. I appreciate you taking the time to watch and for the comments. Mike

@ Ok I understand. And I hope you release new videos on this great car in the future. Thank you so much for the upload.

It's possible, but it's better to make absolutely certain. Make sure to check that it isn't stuck to the underside of the injector as that is quite common.

@zmotorsports62 im 100% sure the washer is gone. Did not hear it drop, but yes i probably should open the valve cover to be certain 😑 lucky me working outside in 12,2 °F 😂

Thank you. Yeah, you're not very far from me being just up north of Logan. The video you are referring to of my PM1340GT lathe, was one of my first videos over ten years ago and in my old shop. Mike

You have to trim the roll pin down to the same length as the original or it can interfere. Yes, the quad rings will add some resistance, depending on how badly the original ones were. I've rebuilt multiple of these since and use the exact parts I listed without any issues. The roll pins and quad rings are not available through OEM so have to be sourced elsewhere but they work.

Thanks. The oil pressure sensor is down near the starter motor.

@@zmotorsports62 do you have to remove the starter to get at that sensor. things are real tight there

Yes, if memory serves the starter needs to be removed to gain access to the oil sensor.

I only changed the brains because there was nothing wrong with anything other than the bearings. I now have just over 225 hours and still going strong.

@@zmotorsports62 Do you have to have a press to get the bearings to go in?

Not necessarily. You can press them in with a simple vise. Worst case you can drive them in with a drift and hammer but I don't recommend hammering in new bearing to install them as you can actually damage them. If you do drive them into the bore be sure to only hit the outside race.

Thank you for the kind words. Glad the video was helpful and thank you for taking the time to watch. Mike

No seal on the actual arm, there are quad seals on both ends of the rack gear which seal off the oil from getting to the arm.

@ yes I replaced them and roll pin and just didn’t see a seal and just wondered how it doesn’t leak oil

You are very welcome. Glad it was helpful and thank you for taking the time to watch. Good luck on your search. Mike

Loosen the pivot bolt on the compressor, then loosen the fastener on the slotted adjustment and tighten to spec. then tighten all fasteners.