Відео

Again, outstanding efforts are shown here, with many professional companies thinking -"Do you want a job?" Looking forward to the next instalment.

So excited to see the doghouse done 😊. Be safe n well .

The tool is a great idea! Cool. Beautiful prepwork as well. Looks great! Good job!

Professional! Looks great. Can't wait to see it finished almost as much as you. 🇸🇪😄😀💕

Congrats on the completed roof; it looks fantastic. Seeing your infusion process for the panels and sheet track will be fascinating. Thanks for sharing such an inspirational episode. You quickly transform from amateurs to look like professional glass fiber workers. Cheers.

In order to damage your gelcoat the most possible way, you got to keep the water exit at least 30 cm or closer to the hull... And wooden decks really take even more damage from pressure washing, if you think about this... NO pressure washing for teak decks!! Hand brush transverse to the grain only. Regarding your stainless steel rods in the keel... Stainless has a life span of 10-20 years from the point of insurance contracts. As it corrodes invisible often inside, that is quite dangerous especially in saltwater for keel bolts. Applies also to standing rigging and other fittings or bolts under high loads.

As engineers, you both did well by developing a well thought out "design of experiments"..This is the only way to gain a knowledge of how the process needs to be established and how you expect the results to be.. Thomas and Petra, another job well done..

PVA is the way to go. By far the best. You can apply it with a foam brush or a washing sponge also works. But the best way is to spray it. An other tip..Your mould is very big so you could drill a small hole, maybe in the middle where the beam is. Plug it with clay and when its time to demould use pressurised air an blow in the hole, the part will just pop up. Kämpa på!

Experiments are a great way to find out what works best 👍🏻

Have you looked into using pva over the waxed surface? It‘s quit inexpensive

I'm sure the final outcome will be amazing with all these experimental tests you have done. Thanks for documenting your process, although it did not turn out as expected, for example, the test with brown packing tape. Well done. Cheers.

My personal past experience using Molds for creating carbon hulls/boats: we lined mold surface with sprayed gelcoat (you are using epoxy instead), finish the surface with no blemishes (it will be the visible outer surface when demolded), wax, polish, allow to dry/expell any possible solvent or additives, repeat wax stage twice more. Hulls popped out fine with a finish that required minimal extra filling/fairing. Interesting project on an engaging journey - good luck, dropping the tape idea was the right call if only because the tape ridges in the outer surface of your final piece would have sent you mad!

Interesting project! I'm sure it will turn out great just like the keel. Keep up the good work.

Very interesting video. Look forward to the next stage. (That’s a good selection of tyres you have in the garage!).

Good job. Maybe take some inspiration for how hr is making these. In the end, it is not going to make the boat look better, but in this case, it is function before beauty.

Nice work. One tip for the teak seams - you can cut them down with a sharp tool. It will make it easy to sand the teak when the seams are not up but level to it. 8mm of old burman teak will last at least 15 years. The reason why there was no sealant in between the teak and gelcoat for the peaces you replased is that the sealant tends not to stick to the gelcoat, and it comes loose in some years. I have seams that i need to fix due to this issue in my boat. 😮

It is so nice watching you both working together !! Thank you!

"LÄCK" 😅

So impressed! Such nice handcraft! Can't wait to the see the final product!

The mould itself is impressive, what a process and you’ve done it, I’m 100% sure it will be exactly as planned, nice!

Nice one... and don't forget to look at the lens and not the lcd screen when you're talking to your viewers. Makes you look blind otherwise...😉🙂

Great to see you both again, Happy Holiday's 🎉

Nice to see that you are using a proper radius on your mould. Also looking forward to the lamination of the beam.

Your approach to the roof finish makes absolute sense to me. You are making a one-off part, so why spend the effort on the mold itself, except to get the correct shape? If it had been produced for many roofs, the mold finish would have saved much time. Cheers.

A good catch with that leaking deck fittings

just looking for your thoughts, will the main sheet track and blocks have sufficient clearance between boom and new dog house roof or will you modify the sheet layout? Great work and have a good festive season.

sådant är livet - I hope I got that right! So cheer up folk, boat life is full of unexpected drama, and cost. A naked boat in a Swedish winter must be chilly, but press on and you will get to your dream, and pls do not lose your good humour.

Ni är bäst! Fantastiska och intressanta filmer :)

Looks about exactly the same that I have been planning for my HR352. I hope the 6 layers of UD was just some initial guess. Modelong composites is NX sounds a bit exotic. It is already difficult enough with Ansys ACP. Obviously there needs to be sigbificant layers +-45 degree fabric on the forward and aft surfaces.. and some on top/bottom to tie the UD together but Im sure you knew that already. Additionally, I'd be a bit worried how the beam is being fixed to the boat itself. Your FEM was likely using just fixed bc's but in reality preventing the local rotation at bounday conditions is a difficult task. Transversal shear loads have been problematic before in this kind of structures. People struggle with their hard tops and solar arches being such wobbly structrures under sideways loads - often due to boundarycondition issues rather than due to stiffness of the structure itself.

Did you diagnose in any more detail how the water pump failed? This is a mechanic's nightmare: a failure without a definite diagnosis. Sometimes it will be enough to have the machine working as it's supposed to do, but always the uncertainty of 'what happened?' will remain.

I thought you need to put some soap or oil on that plastic blade fan

Job well done.. Congratulations

Nice episode. Thank you!

Wow, what a difference to all these YT with: We purchased a sailboat and don't know anything about sailing. Lol. Your wide skills are impressive, and you are very lucky to have such excellent access to work around the engine. Cheers.

Gillar era filmer, och båt väntar alltid på nya.

Exciting to follow your ambitious journey. I found your channel when you were crossing the Atlantic and have followed you ever since, and it's just as enjoyable every time. You are handy and good at what you do. And should it be difficult to gather material for an episode, you can make one where you present yourself a little deeper, your background, etc. We would love to get to know you even more 💕😀😄🇸🇪

bra jobbat!, Finns det någon risk att hardtoppen skulle vara ivägen om ni vill/tvingas/behöver göra ett motorlyft? Tänker man behöver åtminstone kunna få ner lyftstroppar på något vänster.

I think Johan (ran sailing) could be a good spot to ask tips and processes...

Certainly looks high but that step up makes it hard any lower.What about lower but put a sliding hatch in the top to make it easier to get in.

Angående det estetiska. Några saker jag skulle tänka på för att få den att bli mera "ett med båten" är: 1. luta in sido rutorna så att dom inte står vertikalt. 2. Skapa ett generöst överhäng på taket för att minimera risken att det liknar en låda. 3. Absolut inte färgs den vit som skrovet! Då höjer man hela båten. Det är enligt mig det största misstaget andra gör. Gärna blå som en sprayhood eller svart. Titta på Hallberg Rassys senare modeller. Dom har lyckats bra.

As a mechanical engineer i like your analysis, well done

Look at Duracells traveler structure, it's also on the doghouse

Lower version try to curve and round the edges, too ,any others are ugly boxes

Great job! 🇸🇪😄😀💕

Install an additional slider hatch on top for little more headroom

I think you can lower the forward part a tiny bit? Maybe tilt the side panels invard a smidge. Its not easy to make it practical and good loking att the same time. I guess practicality has to win this battle.

How many times will you bump your heads on the roof before you say “We’ll make lowering the cockpit our very next job!” LoL. Great video - and best wishes with the build.

I would probably leave off the overhang on the front and sides because it will be much stronger.add them after you laminate the roof and sides and front together.

I would keep the windows as small as you can.This will make the dodger stronger.I would make it wider to lap over the sides of the existing cabin sides so you can bolt it on.make the angle same as that area.I would raise the center of the roof I think it too low.

👍🏻👍🏻💛