Відео

A great example of 'slow car, fast'! On the US Ebay, there's a company selling aftermarket/performance rear sway bars, where a Spark doesnt have one. If we were keeping the car longer, I'd absolutely shell out for it, I believe it would seriously wake the chassis up. Thanks for watching and commenting!

If you haven't already, the front LCAs are probably worn out. Look for the Mevotech alloy replacements on Rock Auto. Those, Whiteline KDT902 and a rear swaybar kit will do wonders for feel. I do have a list of things of how an 08-11 Impreza should be modified for daily driver, maybe I should make a video? Fun little tidbit of info: The 08-11 Impreza shares front suspension with the 05-09 Legacy and rear suspension is shared with first gen BRZ.

My car has 52k miles it’s my first car and I got lucky with it lol. It’s an auto and I just got new rims. I noticed my exhaust is looking a little rusty so that’s gonna be something soon

Your first car is very important. Don't over do it, just take care of it. And it'll take care of you.

Huh. Neat, I didn't know that! I sold my Impreza June 2022, so I can't know if it works on 2008-2011 Imprezas

Terrible memory forces me to be a good note taker! Thanks for watching!

It was taken to place where dangerous fluids can be safely disposed of. And the bed? 6 Torx screws and 2 guys lifting off the bed. Only 1 screw did not cooperate. This truck is a friend of a friend's, not often I get to hang out with them.

Thank you! Let me know if you think I should make an updated one...and edited better and better audio

The car is really not complicated, I tell me missus this: it it weren't for some of the interior bits and the snazzy exterior, this car is every bit from the 90s. I just wish the CVT was more intuitive to service.

Fuel, air, ignition and heat are what a modern gasoline engine needs to run correctly. At least one of those things are not in order. Start cheap/easy and work your way to more complex/expensive jobs.

That right there is exactly what this channel is about! Thanks for watching and thanks for commenting! I've begun running premium fuel in the family Spark. I figured given the size of the tank, the price difference between regular fuel to premium fuel and the cost of something like Seafoam, it's cheaper and most certainly easier than using a product like Seafoam once in a while. The Spark starts better, runs better and has returned +50km range per tank.

@@NSUGS Certain gas stations actually carry premium fuel that contains the same detergent as the CRC 1Tank. It's called PEA detergent. So that's a good idea running premium! Seafoam, I don't know the full history, but I think it's more geared towards cleaning valves, and carburetors, because it has been around a long time. But specifcally aiming at fuel injectors it's best to use PEA detergent, which seafoam doesn't contain.

See, I didn't know that. That's neat. Thanks!

That must be a large ultrasonic cleaner!

@@NSUGS It's pretty big I think it's about 10L. It comes in handy for many things.

Please, show us what part of the CVT hurt you.

I never said I speak from experience

We all start somewhere

@@NSUGS I wasn't arrogant when I started.

It's to block me face, mate. I don't need to crack everyone's screen!

@@NSUGS have you got such a big mug then? 😉

I like to think 'sufficient' lol

Most companies are like that. Truly disgusting.

I'll take that comparison, partner!

The only thing more expensive than a good mechanic is a cheap mechanic. Buy once, cry once.

I love my RnineT, but there were certain things when replacing the gearbox that made me not like it. BMW kinda forces your hand to do things a certain way.

While I agree with your sentiment, and I too am upset almost everything that isn't bespoke or made with a conscience is considered 'throw-away'. The RnineT shares a lot of components with the DOHC and SOHC R1200 bikes. That's more than 20 years of parts! That lends itself nicely to availability, fair pricing and general knowledge pool. I wouldn't limit the upsetti spaghetti to just BMW, it is far more reaching. The RnineT and DR650 are two bikes I was considering when purchasing a new bike to replace my 2000 Suzuki GS500E, I specifically sought a 'retro' bike with a dumb-as-rocks architecture. That said, the CANbus I see being irritating to deal with in the future...in 20+ years...

They call them Break My Wallet for a reason.

This gearbox is from a 2018 BMW RnineT Urban G/S. Though the gearbox is nearly identical to 2004-2012/2013 R1200GS/GSA models. Edit: Holland, wow! Never ceases to amaze how tangible the reach of the internet can be!

I'm going to assume a mis-shift/false neutral. I have the exact moment of failure in another video. So far, only 2 broken teeth, however I can't figure out why the gearbox locks up when rotating the shafts manually. Not like I can apply much torque to twist the gears into a bind. My first thought was the shifter mechanism, but I'm really not sure now. Given the history of these R1200 gearboxes, I'm calling it a freak accident and taking my loses. I'm just as confused. Shy of pulling the shafts and inspecting the tolerances between the gears, I'm not sure what else to do.

@@NSUGS so you repaired this transmission by yourself? looks like complicated job.

I have not repaired the broken gearbox, no. I simply replaced the gearbox with one from a 2013 R1200GSA. At least that way, I still have a motorcycle to ride and I'm not hung up waiting for parts and the bike in a million pieces.

The calibration adjustment method is identical between 5000 and 6000 models. As far as adjustments, you are directly adjusting the gain, and subsequently the PPM reading. The real key is to complete your calibration adjustments within the time on delay (factory set to 30s), this makes your calibrations repeatable and increases the integrity of the system. I don't have much info on Opera 5000, other than it's almost identical to Opera 6000. Opera changed to 6000 ~2015, and Belimo (Swiss) bought Opera (Canadian) in May 2021, to my knowledge, the only difference post-acquisition are the labels and serial number structure.

@@NSUGS thank you so much for your fast response, when the video was a year old I wasn't sure if you would ever look at it lol. So I had talked to Belimo and the tech there was telling me that when you calibrate the sensor it should be the top number that changes and the bottom number is like a 'life meter' and if it goes below 200 you have to replace the sensor. perhaps they should watch your video. I have at least 6 of these 5000's to calibrate the first one I tried gave me this . applied zero gas and display was 0 , apply span gas of 100 ppm CO and display was 100. t this point bottom number was something like 60 so i started to lower it ( thinking it was like a gain) and got it to 23 before the "100 ppm" on the display changed then brought it back to 100 and added a few points to the gain for cushion. when i tried the NO2 part of the sensor my span gas is 5ppm and the display climbed to 10ppm gain was displaying in the 300's i lowered it to about 20 then the display switched from 10 to 0 with no gradient. my thoughts are CO sensor OK and now reading correct and the NO2 senor is due for replacement. would you agree?

The tech you spoke to, if he was from NB, he's fantastic. A1 guy in my books. Your recollection appears to be accurate. Frankly, anything on the internet should be taken with a grain of salt. I mention this because I am no longer at the company or even feild of work. Trust tech support more than someone making videos online for fun. I was a factory trained Opera tech, but as you mentioned, it's been a year and some since making the video and almost as long since I worked in that profession. As far as quick replies, I am currently under 200 subscribers, it's kinda quiet a lot of the time lol. I'm glad I could be of help and a source of commentary.

They are tons of fun, economical and a love letter to people who need a small car and want something new-ish. I don't see anyone else offering anything similar, even GM, the Spark discontinued in 2022.

I'll try that next time, Thank you! This coming weekend I'm replacing the gearbox in my motorcycle, then next weekend is Spark service extravaganza: Headlights, oil change, engine air filter, cabin air filter and sparkplugs!

Fantastic! Cheap to insure, cheap on fuel, nimble, fun to drive and practical!

Holds a line well, rotates off throttle, nimble steering...my only complaint is a lack of rear swaybar

Agreed, but with unknown history and clear neglect fom previous owners, it often doesn't hurt to ignite the parts canon. The key take away is to start trying with simple and cheap solutions, working to more complex and expensive solutions. Thank for for the feedback, I no longer own a subaru currently, but similar content will be a staple of this channel.

Thank you for watching and commenting.

A solid, fun little car the Suzuki, eh? Just painfully slow.

Been watching Mr. R and Roman since the miata video, great stuff. Thank you!

I'd wait until there is a solid branch of dealer/customer support in Nort Murica before even looking at one

Yeah. It's a different set up, but works. No more strange or different than the boxer engine itself.

I think they're real cool, but if I were to do actual offroading in NA, I'd look for a Jeep TJ. Parts availability, ease of work and general ubiquity can't be beat. Maybe once a firm dealership network is established, an Ineos might make sense, but that's at least a decade away.

Thank you! I do my best to avoid filler

Yes, however it really should be complemented by lower footpeg/controls brackets. Unfortunately options are limited for Scrambler/UGS models as far as lowering the footpegs/controls

@@NSUGS Thx for the video. Just in case u haven't seen Wunderlich footrest lowering kit. That's 20 mm lower. Ride safe & enjoy

I was under the impression that part was only fit for non-scrambler/UGS models. I would be curious why those lowering brackets wouldn't work for a scrambler or UGS model.

The big screws are longer, yes. They thread into the aluminum top clamp, just be mindful.

Keep in mind, boxers like to scuff pistons and burn oil, certainly an economy car with a boxer is no exception. Ask any Porsche boxer engine enthusiast, BMW boxer enthusiast and obviously a Subaru enthusiast. I mention this because while yes, replacing parts can help, if there's a preexisting issue with oil consumption, your car will eventually always have a P0420 due to a clogged cat or fouled sensor(s). I cleared my P0420 with new OE Denso O2 sensors and a cheap cat/header and the code went away for a few months at best. Take this video with a grain of salt, but by all means, give 'er a go, you have my blessing. But don't loose sight of the bigger picture!

@@NSUGS what would the preexisting oil consumption be caused by? Mechanic said it was timing belt or plugs, so they did that whole process and the light came back on immediately after I left the shop, next day they said it needed plug wires and an oil change, (don’t know why that wasn’t done with timing belt but.. light came right back on. I’m at my wits end and have dumped 2k into it this week. I’d be really pissed if the answer was to replace the engine or deal with not having traction control and cruise control.

Oil consumption in a boxer typically comes from piston skirt wear, it's just inherent with the design, gravity isn't helping. If you're keen with tools, the list on the video is really not hard to do yourself. You could try O2 plug extensions, I have no experience so can't recommend anything. But if you're at your wits end, you have nothing to lose. Use quality parts otherwise. Sorry I don't have much else to offer. Any questions, feel free to reach out.

Edit: timing belt replacement really won't have any noticeable effect on how the car burns fuel which is where a P0420 comes from. Start with cheap and easy parts, work your way more complex and more expensive parts unless it's obvious.

​@@NSUGS which o2 sensor is this one for? The location? Bottom right side?

They're about 6", a bit longer than they need to be, but functional nonetheless If you're so inclined, you could even make your own heavy duty versions with fine strand, heavy gauge wire and copper pipe, but not for the same price. But would likely last heaps longer. Everything in life is a compromise

Agreed, keep in mind the kit is for the WRX: a 16mm bar. The STi was 19mm. Still, a fantastic value. Thank you for watching and big thumbs up for commenting! Edited: grammar

Woohoo!

This sucks an insurmountable amount of donkey wang. The only benefit is at least I have the flexibility of what transmission I can get...an R1200GSA 'box is surely what tickles my fancy

@@NSUGSso what happen? Did you get a used transmission from a different bike?

Canada has a very high cost of living currently, so fun money is basically non-existent. I have found two shops, each with a used transmission that I'd be happy to use. However they are $800-$1200CAD shipped. Currently working on that goal, doing what I can. Being a father, other responsibilities take priority, hence the slow progress and slow/low video production.

Wunderlich and SW Motech both offer a center stand that mounts to the underside of the bike. The stand you see in the video is a Hornig Lifter, Pitbull also make a rear paddock stand. Loads of options, all available online!

No worries!