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@@reedgrele6673 They are ALL junk these days. The copper tubing in the coils is literally paper thin and of poor quality. It takes very little for filiform corrosion to set in and turn the coil into Swiss cheese. Google “filiform corrosion copper” and you’ll learn a lot. That’s why the old school dehumidifiers with the smooth aluminum tubing coils lasted forever. The aluminum isn’t subject to that type of corrosion.

@@chrisbeck8182 Thanks for that. My parents were married in January of 1955. When they moved out of the family home in 2007, ALL of the appliances that they received as wedding presents (refrigerator, range, vacuum cleaner, mixer, toaster... etc) were STILL WORKING!!!

@@Singingfishandfandude789 They really are excellent units and kept the quality much later than many other brands. Very quiet and very efficient and solidly made. This one has a Matsushita compressor and a sound blanket so it’s REALLY quiet, hence the Quiet Zone name. My 5500 BTU Amana has a Toshiba compressor and no sound blanket. The Toshiba is a little more “buzzy” sounding and overall the unit is louder but has a pleasant hum to it.

@@chrisbeck8182 they really are great units. Mine doesn’t have the sound blanket but is still the most quiet unit I have. Mine can freeze my whole room out in less than 10 minutes!

I’m not sure what the EC code means as these units do not have any sort of high or low pressure switches. They only have a temperature sensor that allegedly keeps them from freezing up if used in too cool of an area. However that sensor won’t help if it’s freezing up due to being low on charge.

The front grille is held on by one screw (hex head) at the bottom right corner. After the grill is removed there is a green ground wire to disconnect between the chassis and the case. After that the chassis just slides out. If it seems to be getting stuck make sure the louvers on the top of the case aren’t pushed down and hitting a screw that’s on top of the chassis holding something or another on.

that's what I was thinking as well, not all motors are made to run continuoesly forever

Don’t most dehumidifiers have a continuous mode anyway where both the fan and compressor run continuously? They also have timers letting them run for hours at a time. Do these modes contribute to short lifespan?

use nyle dehumidifier wood kiln dryer.

You can run it either way. The open setting just exhausts some of the cooled air to the outdoors.

@@chrisbeck8182 OK thanks! Thought I was doing it wrong all of these years! Closed it will stay.... I need all of the cool air I can get! Both of my fans don't work and when its humid... I cannot function!

Actually no, unfortunately. It’s a Hitachi rotary. It’s a little noisier than the more common Matsushita compressors but it cools great and is very efficient. EER is about 8.5 but it usually does quite a bit better than that.

@@chrisbeck8182 It does have that "sharp" sound like a recip though.

The easiest way is to look up the model number of the compressor. The BTU rating depends on whether the compressor is being used for low, medium or high temperature refrigeration (or said another way, deep freezer, refrigerator, or air conditioning). A deep freezer compressor, for example, will have a large displacement (CC's or cubic inches) but a relatively low h.p. motor. This is due to the low density of the suction gas due to the low temperature of the evaporator. If this compressor was used for a dehumidifier or air conditioner it would likely overload the motor as it would have higher density suction gas to try and pump. So, for a given displacement (and ignoring the motor h.p.) a compressor that has a 1 cu. in. displacement will have a much higher BTU rating for air conditioning than it would for a freezer due to the physical properties of the refrigerant and the operating temperatures of the system.

Hi, Dee. The unit likely needs to be taken apart and the fan motor lubricated with some 3-in-1 Electric Motor Oil or Zoom oil. It also probably needs a good cleaning while it is apart. There are several videos on YT regarding the cleaning process.

The fan motor alone uses over 100 watts compared to almost half that on my 5000 Panasonic.

There are several possible causes. 1) The air filter material could be too thick or restrictive blocking air flow. You should be able to see thru it (relatively coarse black foam, 1/8" thick). 2) The fan motor could need lubrication and it doesn't spin fast enough on the lowest speed to keep the coil from freezing up. 3) The room temperature is too cold. Cooling below 68-70F indoor on a cool evening outside can cause freeze-ups. 4) The condenser(outside) and evaporator (inside) coils could be dirty. Lastly, 5) the unit could be low on charge, which is possible, but pretty rare. I have 10 vintage a/c's dating back to 1965 and all of them still have 100% full charge. If the unit has never been taken apart and cleaned I am sure it sorely needs it. This would be time to oil the fan motor as well. Not all require lubrication, but my Siesta has oil ports. There are several videos on here that show the basic process of removing the case and cleaning the coils. After 20, 30, 40+ years, every unit I have cleaned was absolutely filthy!

@@chrisbeck8182 Thank you so much! We will attempt your suggestions.

Yes, if you mean a fan rather than a blower. Both condenser and evaporator use fans, just like a Carry-Cool.

@@chrisbeck8182 Kind of looks like the same concept as a York Tombstone Central AC unit!!!

@@chrisbeck8182 Where does the air exhaust on the outside? Which vents?

​@@chrisbeck8182 How many blades does the fan on the inside have?

You could run it 24/7, particularly if you remove the cooling hopper and convert it to a closed cooling system. There was some info on the web about that a number of years ago. I’ve kept mine as-is since I only use it as backup and it makes it more portable.

@@chrisbeck8182 thanks alot 🌷

Hi Raymond. It’s been so long I can hardly remember, but I’m pretty sure I ordered it from McMaster-Carr. I believe it’s 1-1/4” NPT but might be 1-1/2”. You might be able to find it elsewhere for less but it’s important to get the filter/silencer version, not just the filter-only which is cheaper, if you’re trying to quiet the thing down. www.mcmaster.com/9828K44/

@@chrisbeck8182 thanks buddy I dissected your video and went to their site. I have some issues to work out on this gen set…it was home built…so some minor mods to make it more reliable in a off grid setting…I may swap in a 4 pole just to see if it’s worth it….the original 2 pole was rated in the 3.5 to 4 Kw range The 4 pole is maybe 8kw and about twice the size.

@@offgridmangogrower use the 4 pole if you can. The 2 pole I have lacks peak surge current capability. It won’t start a split phase well pump or sump pump even though the running amps are well within it’s capacity. That big flywheel stores a lot of energy and will allow a larger alternator to give a peak power quite above what the engine can provide steady-state. I’d have used a 5kW 4-pole if I didn’t run across the 3.2kW 2-pole at a screaming deal I couldn’t pass up.

@@chrisbeck8182 that’s great advice I was just wanted the engine to be closer to peak torque curve….and not see parts a flying… But the center mass is I’m sure 120% over them puny 2 poles I also have a 120/240 Chinese head bought along with a massive lister clone single diesel……I’m getting pumped to match em up.

@@offgridmangogrower I’m running the engine just a wee bit over 1800 rpm to get 3600 at the alternator. 8” drive pulley and 4.2” driven. That was the closet to 4” available. It seems pretty happy and with 3kW load the engine runs clean and has quite a bit left.