Відео

Honestly, see if you can find someone local who has a printer who can help you. These prints should cost very little, even if you are paying someone to print them for you.

@ thank you

Will do. Like this one, I can easily solo-play 1-2 games a week for general experience, as needed. I've got basically 4 armies now, to plenty to play with.

See, there you go... I forgot about that for the spell and the spawn - so that is another mistake and a learning I need to make a little video about :) Thanks!

@OnTheGamingTable it's easy for us bystanders mate 😅. So easy, to miss things in this game, I spent a whole battle treating hounds like infantry...

@@Jimbo818 haha - when I originally painted up my Norse Werewolves, I forgot they were "infantry based as cavalry" and superglued them to the base the wrong way... Good thing I can just print a few more & they paint up pretty quickly :)

Thanks for the ideas. I've thought about reinforcements too, I'm not sure how to balance it out without making the total "equal points" in the end. So what I'm doing now is giving the smaller force advantages like 'defended status' to see if that works. Ideally, I want to see how we can have unequal-point games, but it's tricky :) And greetings back to you from Asia (Hong Kong)!

@OnTheGamingTable Thanks for your Kind response. Actually the attacker has absolutely no pressure, to attack. He can line up and bring his might slowly to the right position. He can even walk around the defended positions, because there is no need to hurry. In my opinion, this would ruin the great idea of the scenario. Round 3 could start for example with 150 Points worth of troups, which start from the tableedge of the defender..... Round 4 the Same Round 5 He gets 200 Points. I think, I will test something like this here....

@@heikobuse6086 Go for it with the reinforcements, let me (and the rest of us) know how it goes! Currently, I was setting a time limit on the attacker of 8 turns. Given they have to go about 80 cm to reach the 'front lines' and up to 140 cm to reach the back objective, this seemed not too bad. But that's what testing is for - figuring out if ideas work in practice :)

Thanks! They help me as much as they help everyone else 😂

Yeah, it was a collective moment of inspiration for the group and we will see how it works out in practice. I'll report on these learnings later :)

@@OnTheGamingTable i wish you a good luck and hope it will go well :)

@@ondrejstepanek6597 Thanks - things have started out OK, so we will see how things progress.

Happy to help and glad they are getting use here to help people have fun 😊

Must be crewed by raised Orcs. ;)

Thanks. Note the unengaged Spear unit could also have 'moved aside' or even refused to give way (giving automatic confusion to the Crossbows). There are options, and I just showed one of them.

Thanks. I like the Tomb Kings, but a lot of their success is from their magic. As happened here, when the Raise Deads go off, you can flood a combat and get a win, but when they don't get cast, it's much harder work. For me, I feel you have to be willing to sacrifice some units as 'bait' or use them as 'disruptors' to give you some advantages - but you usually have some units to burn as they are quite cheap and your break point is usually high. FYI, if your friend doesn't like Tomb Kings, you can build a Vampire Counts army by using the TK units and adding a few things like Bats and Dire Wolves.

@OnTheGamingTable great idea!

@@novemberkilo81 Good luck :)

Thanks. I will aim to do more like this. It's actually a bit easier/faster than the other way I was doing reports (lots of photos and then a PPT with narration).

Thanks, and I'll aim to do more like this.

Glad you enjoyed it :)

;) Keep learning!

Thanks for the apprectiation :) If you aren't already on the Warmaster FB or Discord group, get on there and find some players near you :)

Thanks, and yes, I will definitely try it again. I have one more painted unit of Spears for the DE, and so maybe add that and a hero and try again (about 1,500 pts for the DE) while still keeping to the min/max limits for that point size. I think my DE deployment (remember, I am doing this solo) was not the best. Mabye have two big bridages rather than four smaller ones for the defenders, making them harder to crack. Anyway, more coming when I try it out again.

You're welcome :)

Correct, what's shown in this video is only one order on the brigade. The Chaos Warriors use that order to charge, and the Marauders use that same order to make their charge too. Initially, the Marauders have no line-of-sight to the Dark Elves to be able to charge, but once the Warriors have moved, the line-of-sight opens up for the Marauders to charge. As noted in the rules, this is why the order of moves by units in a bridage can be important. And thanks, and happy gaming! :)

Thanks, more coming soon. I am starting to run out of troops for the armies but I'll get a couple more done at least :)

Gald you enjoy the reports. Mini-Warmaster is a way to get into the feel of things, especially in a small space. It's not the same as a regular game of WM, but it serves a bit of a different purpose. Have a go, see what you think. Yes, some games (including this one) are solo games. Most of my games 'at home' are solo since I live on a small island in HK. WM is one of those games that does work pretty well as a solo game (IMO). But of course, playing and enjoying with other people is what wargaming is really about :)

Thank you. They look better than what I had before :)

Thanks, and welcome! For the generals, yes, I know they can't blunder. I may have called it a blunder once or twice without meaning that a roll was taken on the blunder table. But then I also noted (thanks to your comment) that the Cold Ones order from the general near the end was a double 6 and should not have rolled on the blunder table (where they withdrew back a bit). Anyway, play and learn :)

@OnTheGamingTable aye, it's a very intricate rules set. I find there is alway something that slips through the net.

@@Jimbo818 Agree, but the more you play, the more you learn ;)

Yep, I think that most hobby/game stores are run by people who have a passion for the hobby/games that they have. They are hobbyists or gamers themselves, and you can feel it in what they do. Interestingly, there was a speech at the Game Awards this year that kind of relates to this: ua-cam.com/video/YvRm4HKK4gQ/v-deo.htmlsi=v1HJQuNoOYeX696g

Perhaps more that the Dragon Riders were countered by Doom and Despair a lot. That, and the Tomb Kings (undead) don't care about the terror.

@ yea not causing terror really doesn’t help their costs, we have started playing in Auckland off the back of your videos

Hey, good to know! Share stuff on the WMR FB group or Discord group, if you are on them. Good to see more about what others are doing.

Yep, 2/3 unit size would still make a nice game, I think. Just consider the units that are something different than the normal '3'. So for example, for Bolt Throwers, maybe at your 2/3 scale you say only 1 attack each + 'penetration'. And spells that normally roll 3 dice, let them roll 2. Should basically work OK, although it will play a little differently to a normal game of Warmaster Revolution.

@@OnTheGamingTable Definitely! It's a good back up plan. I just need to keep focus and actually base my figures so they work in multiple game systems and still look the best. My first bucnh om 10mm's i based on 40x40mm for the looks but now i'm aiming for 1 piece 40x20mm + 2 pieaces 20x20mm for 1 unit. So i can have a unit in square/column formation and battleline formation (and marching if it's a T-shape). I can also just add one more 40x20mm for a bigger unit or if i want it to be a normal warmaster unit (and i can also make a cool "attack column" formation, 60x40mm). I have to snip off strips but it's only some of the models i find it to be a bit difficult, HE spearmen for example. Looks great though, especially if you put the models closer to the edges, then you can get a seamless long battleline. Or a horde of small 10mm miniatures )without the silly sidegaps)

@@monkehbwoy Yep, sounds good! Keep up the gaming goodness :)

Sounds good!

Thanks. Yes, the blocks are handy. These ones are old Jenga blocks, but I have also just used bits of wood that I cut into rounds with a hole saw. I have a friend who's a semi-professional painter and he uses plastic bottle caps (28mm figs) a lot for the same reason of 'hold-ability'. Like you, I used to use strips (cardboard) for putting figures on, but something thicker and more substantial is easier to hold on to. They also aren't top-heavy with the figures on top, so less prone to falling over at a slight touch.

Where are you located? There seem to be Warmaster players in most places around the world. If not, ever tried playing on Tabletop Simulator?

Thank you 🙏

Light bulb?

Hi - you are partially correct. If the Warrior stand moved a little bit to it's right so that it maintained only corner-to-corner contact with its fellow Warrios stands, then the third Marauder could move straight ahead a little further and be in corner-to-corner contact with the Dark Elves (while still maintaining contact corner-to-corner with its fellow Marauders). This would mean it's not supporting; it would be fighting, as it's in corner contact with the Dark Elves. I should have done that in the video to show how that works :)

Good luck, have fun! A lot of the game is learning-by-doing, and I hope these little videos help you out. If you forget what to do, look them up! You can find a list of the videos as a kind of index at this site: onthegamingtable.wixsite.com/main

Agree, and I plan on doing more. After my initial printing run for doing figures, I had some trouble with print quality which I think was down to the (cheaper) resin I was using. Since then I have committed to ABS-like resin and I want to print & do more for CD TOB - and then work and travel got a bit in the way (but honestly so did running WMR and S&H campaigns). I also felt that I needed a bigger table for CD TOB (which I now have). More CD TOB coming (in about a month) once I get back to my table again after this current set of overseas trips.

Not the first, but one of the best (IMO) :)

Yes, it was a rough start, and Turn 5 for Chaos where they didn't get have any successful orders also hurt them. For trying to catch the Dark Elf general on the last turn, the Chaos Warriors needed to roll a 6 (made) followed by a 4 (failed), and the Ogre brigade needed a 7 (made) followed by a 6 (failed). So maybe the Dark Elf general was just playing the odds well. Both sides were very wary of the opposing cavalry. Both sides were treating the cavarly as their reserve. They probably felt that if they tried a 2-order charge and failed, they'd be left hanging in the wind.

:) It's been going back and forth a bit. Usually based on one side making mistakes LOL. I've done battle #8, and might be able to get it posted up later today.

Actually, no they don't have to end in contact with each other if some units of the brigade charge. See WMR page 17, paragraph 2: "Except when units wish to charge, brigades move as a body, with each unit remaining in touch with the brigade as a whole." and all of paragraph 4, especially: "Conceivably, some units in a brigade might wish to charge the enemy whilst others do not... Any units in a brigade that wish to charge do not have to remain in touch with the rest of the brigade as a whole. ... Units which do not charge still have to end their move touching." (each other) See the diagrams on p17 and the text in diagram 17.4 Hope that helps!

Yes.... I mucked that up! I wasn't thinking too hard when I based them up. So what I will do is maybe intermix them with other units for flavour value and I'll just have to print & paint some more figures & bases :)

Thank you! The shield designs worked out in the end, but compared to some other figures I have, they were more difficult to get done. That said, the rest of the figure was easy to do. When painting my Dark Elves, some figures (e.g., Witch Elves) were very hard to paint due to poses and hard-to-reach spaces. No problems like that with these Norse! :) I'm looking forward to printing & painting some of the other figures from the Norse set soon, as well as the Undead Norse (I got the bundle with both sets). Thank you for what you do!

More coming, a few bits at a time :)

You're welcome :)

Thank you!

They are added to your total combat score at the end to determine the winner

As Simon said, they are for combat score / combat resolution. I'll do more examples of combat later, including the win/draw/loss part and the retreat/pursuit part (which some people find difficult).

Yeah, it's worked out OK, but I find it's not perfect. Good enough for me though :) To help disguise the gaps, I have been adding a bit more brown paint all round the (vertical) edge of the cloth, just to help hide things a bit more. Now that I have a larger table, I need to make more...

Thanks. I get the terrain part from both angles; in history, 'medieval' style armies found over largely open ground, usually flanks anchored with significant features, etc., but generally where significant bodies of men in organized formations could manoeuvre and fight. In those kinds of times, terrain was often chosen in advance by one of the forces, hence 'deplyed on a hill', 'line anchored by a wood', and similar phrases you see in accounts. More 'modern' situations are different, with 'looser' bodies of men using a lot more terrain to their personal or small-unit advantage. Here, I have tended to use quite a bit of terrain because I am playing on a fairly small table. Terrain helps change the feel and make it a more 'playable' space (IMO). Too much terrain can be bothersome (again IMO) but something like seen here seems to work out fairly well. Anyway, glad you liked it :)