Відео

the module is technically a pdm, they are plug and play no programming required, you will need to find one that matches year and engine model. also in the video i show you how to test and verify the common issue with them.

@@heavydutyroadsidellc920 thank you I'm having the same kind of problem I turn the key on no starter I use my power probe on the starter it cranks but no start I checked all the fuses and all the relays everything is good I checked to make sure it wasn't the neutral safety switch I have a matco scanner Maximus 3.0 I checked the brake switch also. I have no spark no injectors

@@boostedperformance4529 pop an injector pigtail off and test for key on power to pigtail of the injector, same with a coil plug. as shown in the vid look at connectors on the module and look for a damaged wire or pin connector

@@heavydutyroadsidellc920 on the module all the pins are fine in the harness looks perfect I got an injector test kit from bluepoint I checked the coils already and there was nothing no spark

@@boostedperformance4529asd relay inside the module is more than likely the culprit then.

Test first power to the OBD port. Typically tied into the aux power fuse/ cig lighter

If you are still having connection issues after testing fuses at OBD port and ecm, you probably have a wire shorting in the 5v reference, this will typically cause the processor in the ecm to freeze or stop functioning. Test all sensors / unplug them that are using 5v such as TPS, MAP, CAM POS, CRANK POS, and so on. You can do it one at a time or all of them and test to see if your scanner is then communicating

@@heavydutyroadsidellc920 I’ll try that the problem has fixed itself a couple of times but will only scan for a little bit then I get an error message I’m getting power to the obd2 so I’ll start disconnecting sensors I guess

3hours maybe

let me know if you got yours going!

in the video i show you how to trouble shoot everything, test key on power to coils and injectors. on the back of the fuse box you have a power distribution module that has its own relays inside of it to power things like the power shut off relay, coil and injector power. if you do not have exat one you need for your production year installed you will have issues. they are not all the same and they changed every 6 months for a few years. pin outs are different. so you need to verify part numbers and verify you have the proper parts for your application. i can help you a little more if you give me various information about your use case. will it crank? do you have power to injectors? is your fuel pump kicking on, are you getting power to coil? test everything.

glad you got it figured out

no, it doesnt. It is basically what the aftermarket calls a PDM. (power distribution module) just a board with built-in relays that is signaled on remotely with ECM and other input signals.

the knock sensor is not in an oil or coolant passage. they mount to the solid block. but if you have everything else apart you might lose some coolant.

Not my call to pull the motor, customer just wanted it back together. I would have liked to pull the motor and go threw everthing but time is money and the customer was on a budget.

why would you go through all that work and not replace them both, they are for common failure. if one failed the other is soon to follow and you will be doing it again. sensor one is close to cylinder one, (front of the engine) Sensors 2 is in the rear of the engine.

knock sensors did not affect the harshness, more on the lines of keeping the engine running on its low octane fuel map, (less spark advance safe but down on power,) and limiting throttle actuator position and fueling strategies. Basically in limp mode, the symptoms you are having I would like more detail ( how does it feel going from neutral to drive, harshness or smooth,). (Are you seeing any other codes?) if it is not shifting into higher gears or slipping when it goes into gear ( rpm rises quickly with no noticeable vehicle mph gain) you more than likely have a transmission that is low on fluid and or hurt. Also, you need to find out if your throttle pedal in-cab and throttle body actuator on the engine is functioning properly. if either of those act up it will cause shifting harshness. Make sure the intake to the engine that has the mass airflow sensor on it is connected properly with no air leaks after the mass air flow sensor.

I would but new pintails for the sensors, follow wires back to where they were chewed, repair one wire at a time with a soldering gun and shrink wrap.

@@heavydutyroadsidellc920 my sensors came with the harnesses it’s not hard to figure out.if it’s rodent damage you can probably get away with just wire repair the sensors might be ok.I did the mine a year ago and now have to do it again because the rat factory/chicken farm next door

Depends on location and average labor rates, shouldn’t be more than 500 including parts

it was one of my first and an old video, if you have any issues i am more than willing to run you threw it.

If you only changed the carb, and it’s not running well now, it’s the carb. Might be too small of jets in the Excelerator pump, might be too big, could have a stuck float in the carb.

@@heavydutyroadsidellc920 pulled the plugs, one wasn't gaped enough but broke when pulling it. Was told the pickup in the distributor going bad. About to go out and put in new plug (w anti seize) now and see what she does.

@@slowpoke4557 hope it runs like a champ and keeps up the smiles per gallon

Depends on shop labor costs but you are looking at 400 dollars U.S. for a decent price for just labor on the low side, my shop could do it for less 275 roughly because of experience. I would say average cost is around 500-600

@@heavydutyroadsidellc920 My dealer just quoted $850. I found out on my own I only needed one sensor replaced. Rats also.

depends on what shop you go to but they have hourly rates and must follow book times

You need to find the break in the harness or where it is shorted, then run new wire from the break back to the sensor. Sauter the wire

Hello, do u happen to kno where i can get a pigtail connector for knock sensor?

thank you for your feedback

its actually not that bad

I had to do the same job.same year same engine.a rodent chewed the harness for the knock sensors there are two of them.it’s a four hour job at best and likely more like 6

Glad to help

you would think but for this truck there was not enough clearance seriously I tried that first and if you look on the book times its more extensive than what I did but the oem sensors needed to move upward and will not do so.

John Tetreault you have questions ask I’ll run you threw it

Corey Sharp add a relay in between the coil and battery with a 30amp fuse from the battery, using the original power to coil as a trigger wire to activate the relay. Done properly it will alleviate most of the voltage drop to the coil and reduce load to the ignition switch. Everything in that truck is powered from the ignition switch.

@@heavydutyroadsidellc920 I made a huge mistake on install. The smallest of mistakes at that. I did NOT remember to check the points gap on the brand new distributor. I toasted the points and condenser come to find out. 30 bucks later she runs like new.

makes the day go by faster

Me too

@alberto same here with my 2011 Tundra. Rodent poop all over the engine. They chewed my ATV electrical. That was easy to repair, this one, I'm not sure I should even attempt to do myself. What was it at the end? Did you figure it out?

roughly the same process

H-sGrace SavedMe www.carparts.com/details/Toyota/Tundra/Replacement/Knock_Sensor/2006/REPM311201.html?TID=gglpla&origin=pla&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgZnQ7Zfk4wIVg56fCh00TghDEAQYASABEgJ0B_D_BwE

Abe G honestly not but send me some info and I will be able to get you started.

At the very least send me your check engine light codes or tell me symptoms

NoMercyMotorsports the code coming up is p0325

No symptoms just a check engine light.

It’s a 4.7 v8 2wd 2000 Toyota Tundra

Max Ochoa resistance to the coil is the issue. Cool gets power from ignition switch

A wire is partially broken. To test what I am talking about. Run an alligator clamp from the pos. Battery term to the coil.

Also if your contact in the distributor is bad no signal gets sent to the coil to fire

2 bell housing patters