Відео

this was a very long time ago but it's a GT28

@@RickBaconsAdventures thank you very much for taking the time to answer. I'm new to the turbo stuff. I will look it up. I was just wondering if there was a size, I keep seeing sizes in mm. Like 72mm etc

@@KennethClayton-sb9rj people are really weird about how they refer to the size, it seems like mostly out of ignorance. Garrett has the very common line of GT turbos, GT15,17,20,25,28,30,40 are the ones I have seen mostly. Other brands have their own numbering scheme. Most china turbos are garrett knockoffs. The mm size that people use is pretty generic because there are many other attributes to a turbo other than one of the measurements. BOTH sides of it have inducer and exducer diameters, inlet and outlet diameters, and A/R ratios. Most of my experience is with small diesel engines for daily driver level performance and drivability. On a larger engine, you can slap all different turbos on and it will make noise and power, that's about as much as most people can understand. Finding the actual right one is a lot of fun. The turbo in this video is from a 4 liter diesel. They had it on the shelf at the exit of the local you pull it and it seemed like it might work for a project I had, turned out to be way too big so I bought this engine, then the truck just to do something with it. Never finished the project since I had 3 other licensed vehicles at the time. Still have it though. The best thing to start with is finding a turbo from something similar to what you hope to accomplish if possible. Or at least relate specs from something similar into what you can actually purchase.

Thank you very much for the information. I'm pretty ignorant of the subject so that will help me out thank you

That's a lot to type out here, I'd be happy to email you the details. It's a "home made" inverter setup, meaning I just bought a 3 phase compressor unit and put a VFD on it. I have custom control software that I wrote to maximize whichever thing is most important based on situation like; max efficiency, minimum running kw, maximum humidity removal, maximum hot water production, etc. I run it all closed loop with pressure and temperature sensors as well as controlling the condenser fan. The controller in the evaporator fan still works so my system just switches between the 5 torque choices on there for indoor fan control. it's a 410a system. I was going to use one heat exchanger for house hot water and the other one for an outdoor hot tub but just ended up plumbing them in series for house water. I think the small one was 30k BTU ad the big one was 60k BTU. The way I end up using it is actually on demand hot water. It will heat up my water heater tank in normal daily use but 60 gallons or whatever doesn't go very far. I set up my software where you just push a button before taking a shower and it fires up in maximum hot water production mode for a timed duration and then switches to humidity removal for a timed duration before shutting off. With all that junk, it can make the water plenty hot for a high flow shower in real time. There are a LOT of aspects to this I'd be happy to share but I could go on for days. Thanks for your interest.

@@RickBaconsAdventures What! So many disciplines right there! (low/high voltage, embedded logic/controllers (esp32/arduino/plc?) I wanted to spare me (and I don't have the expertise anyways) from having to build the outdoor part, still think I could use inverter based 3-ton R410A unit (gree flexx/mrcool universal) and implement a very basic 24vac logic (compressor + reversing valve signaling). The outdoor unit would maintain liquid/gas line delta-T and take care of not exceeding the safe pressure (667psi on gas side based on their service manual), while ecm pump (grundfos alpha2) would pull water through a bphe and into 119gallon tank where the heat would be stratified. I'm now researching which bphe I need to get (pressure ratings, size vs plate count). I'd be using this for radiant heating, with several in-concrete-floor zones (low temp 80-85F supply) and supplemental radiators and towel warmers (hi temp 110-115F), so would need the tank to get upto 125-130 or more and then use mixing valves to get the target temp. "Tankless" heat pump water heater? nice! I suppose it you have a low-flow shower head and temp raise from from 50F to 100F you could get away with about ~25k BTUs.... and at high COP you are definitely saving on electricity...

@@elyor2008 I have an illegal modified extremely high flow shower head. I'm in florida so the incoming water is basically always 73 degrees F. I can get 120-130 degree water coming from the heat exchanger. The effects that this has on the air conditioner definitely have to be compensated for. If you don't have control over the rest of the system, you can only really take some of the heat coming directly out of the compressor and not actually condensing the refrigerant. All of my software is embedded C on boards I designed. Arduino is a great starting point for new people though. Some of the other popular platforms these days get too far away from proper programming. What are you air conditioning that you also need heat at the same time? Are you just trying to build a heat pump radiant heating system and not cooling at all?

I think it's the pump in mine too but it still runs just fine. I only have 300k miles so the engine does not have any problems. Normally if you have low oil under acceleration it's the oil having trouble getting back down to the pan because of sludge. My engine was spotless inside when I replaced the oil pan gasket so I must be lucky.

Hi Mark, if those parts are still available then yes I would use them. If they aren't, I can spec a new one for you. As I remember, all the little blue capacitors are the same. Yes if you cut the leads right under the blue part, you can solder the new one onto the old leads which lets you replace them without removing the board to access the back. Make sure they don't fall downward when soldering where they would be shorting against the metal beneath. If you have any more questions I will try to help you. These TVs are really good and the new ones are crap.

@@RickBaconsAdventures Hi Rick, looks like Mouser's site is back up and I should be able to order those caps. I will post again if I run into any difficulties. Do the caps have a polarity to them so I need to know which end get soldered to the correct side? Thanks again.

@@markgriff9265 Hi Mark, That type of capacitor does not have polarity so it does not matter

@@RickBaconsAdventures Hi Rick, I finally attempted to fix the tv. I replaced the 3 caps (lazy way) plus the 1 you replaced on the "buffer" board. I still have the same issue. I even removed the white ribbon cable to see if I could get something to heat up and smoke like you mentioned, but nothing different happened. I still get the red light that blinks and the "click click click" sound as it tries to work but then nothing. I watched another video where a guys you unplug one board at a time to see if it stops "clicking". This is what I tried previously before finding your video. Using this technique, it seems to come down to the board where the 3 caps are. Do you have any other suggestions? Thank you

@@markgriff9265 Hi Mark, I will watch my video again today and see if I can come up with any suggestions. It has been too long for me to remember. Mine is still working though so there's hope!

Still haven't figured it out but the truck is still working perfectly other than the noise. Let me know if you find anything! I suspect I will not know until I open the transmission someday

@@RickBaconsAdventures thanks for the reply! I’ll let you know if I find anything, but I’m probably just going to leave it as-is unless it becomes a bigger issue 🙃

You're welcome! You can do it. Yes, the GM1 and GM5 are my favorite cameras. So compact and easy to use. The photos come out so "true to life" and not over or under saturated. The Leica 25mm 1.4 is my go-to, but even the cheap 14-42mm 3.5-5.6 takes ridiculously sharp pictures. I use a minolta adapter to run a 50mm 1.4 and a nikon adapter to use a zoom lens that my grandpa took all over the world before I got it. Hard to beat

do it

dunno

Have not figured it out. We are still using it like normal and have towed a big trailer thousands of miles with no trouble. I will definitely post an update if I figure anything out

@@RickBaconsAdventures Thank you for the response and peace of mind.

Man guys my 2012 5.3 Silverado makes the same noise as well and I just had a billet torque converter put in the truck about a month ago truck never made the noise before that

first of all it's held 450 psi for about 5 years with no issues

was just dicking around with an old farm truck bud, not a truck for driving to work. All videos from 10+ years ago are amateur.

stock single barrel only flows enough for the stock engine. You need roughly double the carb to run 14 pounds of boost. This random holley I was screwing around with is way too big. Something that flows 450-500 is probably more than enough.

@@mikeneff832 yes. I got it for $200 with a leaky freezeplug. I replaced the freeze plugs and took the head off, cleaned the chambers and lapped the valves. New headgasket. It ran fine before but I was young and had time so I freshened it up. Never took the oil pan off. Bottom end is untouched. I never really did anything after these videos. I test drove it a dozen or so times but then I got a girlfriend and bought some land and spent the last however many years getting a shop set up. I still have the truck untouched since then so I am just getting to a point where I could work on it again with much better equipment

also the test drives were limited because 2nd gear slipped in the transmission. I know how to rebuild those now so I can fix that too

@@RickBaconsAdventures so just turbo to exhaust and oil pan tapped no intercooler or anything ?

@@mikeneff832 turbo on the exhaust as close to the manifold as possible, oil feed from where the oil pressure sensor goes, oil return either into the dipstick tube or weld/braze a fitting into one of the pushrod covers. Carb goes into turbo and turbo goes back out to where the carb used to be. It needs a lot of fine tuning to make it drivable. The ignition timing has to retard a lot under boost

You're welcome, good job!

about 6 months after this happened I had one of the driver boards along the side go bad. Wasn't able to find the problem but I found a replacement board for like $11. The TV works perfect still now! (the symptom of the driver board was half of the screen was black). I hope it keeps working because I love this TV. I hate modern TVs I just want a screen, not a dang computer with a laggy and buggy UI with "features" I don't need.

no idea about the sound but on mine the LCD just randomly quit working one day (didn't drop it or get it wet or hot or cold or anything) I think it still made normal sounds as I took some pictures while the LCD was broken

@@RickBaconsAdventures ok so probably motherboard is failure

@@Lojalny does it still take pictures and put them on the card?

@@RickBaconsAdventures didin't check that but there isnt any flashes and sound making photo just sharpness sound

lol yep, those were the days. We take today's tech for granted

at the time I was using regulators that didn't work right and would drift

Yeah everything is 100%. I still use it all the time

you find problem!? has same noise

@@chadbailey189 still haven't figured it out but I have driven probably 10k miles towing heavy trailers and it has not gotten any worse. I'm just driving it and paying attention for any changes in the noise.

that's crazy and good at same time I guess. I just got truck, started it cold, I was like what the f! is going on!!. I did a ton of research, 8.1 just make weard noises and so dose my truck. told not to worry and just drove them

@@chadbailey189 yeah, 99% sure it's coming from the torque converter or transmission pump and not the engine. Might never know.

Man guys my truck is making the same noise an I’ll be danged if I can’t find the fix! If I happen to find the fix here soon I’ll definitely let you guys know!

DC lift arc TIG only. I can't wait to get a "real" TIG machine but even this capability is a welcome addition to the shop. Changing it between modes only takes a couple seconds on the screen. Hooking up the cables takes the most time. The machine has a + and - stud inside. I made short cables like 1 foot of 4-0 wire with a ring terminal on one end and a 600 amp camlock on the other. I have the MIG gun hooked to + inside, the TIG line to - inside, and I swap my "work clamp" between + and - camlock depending on what mode I am using. I haven't used it for stick yet since I have a miller thunderbolt 210 inverter shoebox stick welder. I could make a cable to go into the other camlock on the front of my machine now. I will try to find time to make a video

left a long comment on your video. Let's get this solved!

did you read my whole description? I am still trying to figure this out. Spent a lot of money trying to do it right. Lets get it figured out

@rickbaconsadventures any luck? Or is the truck still making the noise? My 2012 5.3 Silverado is making same noise from bellhousing I’m hunting the fix. It did not start making the noise till my torque converter to my 6l80e gave out. So I had a bullet torque converter put in . The truck runs really good an shifts fine as well I just hate the dang annoying tapping noise. I have. Noticed in my case if I put the truck in drive and hold my foot on the break and accelerate to 800-1k Rpms the noise literally disappeares and when I let off the gas pedal it comes right back

Yes, I bought a small tip for my torch for this job. I believe it was a #0. Did not take very much heat at all. I have tried MAPP gas when in a remote location once and it wasn't really hot enough.

That's weird. I wouldn't think it could be any harder on the carb

the days before stabilization!

I'm stuck on the three screws into the metal plate inside the camera. I think the Hulk put them in!

@@dizmatt1 Thanks, I'm glad the video is helping people. I think the screws probably have some threadlocker on them. Make sure you're using a screwdriver that's an exact fit. Heat normally releases threadlocker but I'm not sure if there is a safe way to heat the screws

Hm, you could try tapping gently on the back of the screwdriver to loosen them up. Make sure you're using a screwdriver that's a perfect fit for the screw

I have the same problem. Haven't managed to solve it yet.

What size is the screwdriver you used successfully? ​@@RickBaconsAdventures

@@cazzablanco4665 I don't remember, this was a long time ago. Someone gave me an "ifixit" kit that has tons of small screwdriver tips for things like this and I used that. Carefully testing several tips that seemed like the right size to pick the best one. Camera still working 2024

it's still holding 450 psi almost 3 years later so it can't be that bad haha. I don't get to practice this type of soldering/ brazing much so I just got the job done. I was mainly surprised how well the flux worked

@@RickBaconsAdventures j

Jeswin Kumar hi. I found a shop sell this screen ~ $9. What the different between $30 ( ebay) $ 15 and $9 ??? Color, contrast, sharpness?? Thanks

The one I bought on eBay included the backlight. Sorry I just saw this, youtube didn't notify me

​@@RickBaconsAdventures Thanks for the reply. I bought one with the backlight - it's just a little more expensive than one without. That saves a lot of time.