Відео

We would recommend having this re-applied in 2 years

Corrolan products carry NO aspiration hazard, I’m not allergic to lanolin so it’s simply not required. Not by law or by own health.

As you can see these have been wrapped in polythene shrink wrap

@@uklam102 apologies, hadn’t got my glasses on 🙄 Looks an effective treatment.

@@trevorottaway5364 No worries, the product is great.

@@uklam102 Might try it on my 24 year old mx5. Rust like an old bucket 😄

@@trevorottaway5364cor they really do, MX-5’s are the car we rustproof most

For this vehicle it was £150+vat

@@hughdunit whats the vehicle ? Can you email for a full quotation? Sales@rust.co.uk

@@hughdunit this is lanolin wax that comes from sheep’s wool

I've never personally used Stop Rust but have heard of it, Whilst they say converts the rust it really did no more than encapsulating the rust, we've a similar product from Rust Oleum called Rust Reformer. With a good binder that's UV staple it would last I'm sure.

Hello, Yes a 1.8-2mm, LVLP work great

@@uklam102 Will tag your business in when I do a video as got few brackets and anti roll bar to spray. First must acquire the LVLP gun!

for a vehicle like this around £500+vat (tax)

£495.00+vat

We’ve a couple of videos using the Purple-X on our page, hope that helps

Corrolan when newly applied is initially honey coloured, then it gradually changes colour and becomes transparent. No- the arch liners do not need to be removed prior to power washing- the whole point of liners is to prevent the ingress of dirt from the road spray and they do just that. Nor does it require two days for the vehicle to dry. The video clearly refers to the use of a blower to dry the chassis. In addition, corrolan- unlike petroleum based wax products, can be applied over a damp surface. It will draw moisture away from the surface and it emulsifies it within the wax.

You can use Rustbuster Fe123 on your wheelbarrow, remove the loose rust first and brush in a small amount and leave time to convert. If you want to remove corrosion from galvanised metal you’ll need a different type of acid like Rustbuster Purple X this will remove the corrosion

Cor this is an old video, we do use ramps aswell, sometimes washing vehicles when in the lift.

Hi Des, with the right prep it’s pretty tough!!

I’m not sure whether to thank you or not, hopefully it helps

@@uklam102 Thank you sir, you certainly did help, even watched a few more vids. about the product and read lots of feedback. A saturated market, always seems difficult to choose from so many excellent products. If you can manage it, it's often fun to ask people what they remember (don't prompt them with anything) or video then speed up each 'performance' and speech. Listen for patterns and swear blind, "I never did that even once". Great fun and always much laughter for everyone. A good icebreaker as well. I confess to laughing even before the compressor started up because you just knew what was coming. Stops everyone in their tracks who believe there is no need for a script, or positioning, or a run before actual filming. Make sure you play theirs first. Thank you again, can never forget the product now. That's the point isn't it?

PS: Apology, I am sure you knew all that anyway. So a really great delivery.

We have some affordable ones at www.rust.co.uk they are a 1.8mm I believe

Thanks!

Of course, but this process chemically alters the iron oxide by conversion to a new componet Iron tanate (Tannic acid conversion) it stops the rusting process converting the oxidised layer deadening it allow it to be overcoated. Converters are often alittle easier to use. Rustbuster

@@imrallen9782 every tannic rust converter I've used, the ones that have a latex finish have rusted back a year later. What makes this product better? Regards

Whoever said a rust converter didn’t need to be over coated? Latex bound converters provide a barrier for a few months at most, they need to be over coated. I guess the difference between our and other is that we understand the technology and can sell it correctly with the right advice and labelling.

@@uklam102 Thank you, and yes over coated it with radiator paint. Vactan was the product. Regards

Thank you Roman, after being told recently that we’ve no idea what we’re doing this was nice to read. Both myself and my father have been supply coatings to protective coatings industry for many years and I have also trained as a coating inspector.

@@uklam102 I have been an industrial painter for 25 years, working on the Norsok M501 standard under the supervision of Frosio.

Corrolan has been used for years now in the UK and Norway and isn’t a problem we have experienced. In truth it’s not something we’ve specifically tested though we have had a panel outside the building for 6 months and it’s intact, we are based on farm land and do have mice ocassionaly in the unit, whilst they do try to eat rape oil we have here they don’t go for the Lanolin.

I would typically leave this overnight, after completing the first while vehicles underside that enough for me

I would leave the first coat overnight and coat the next day, this allows time for the solvent to evaporate and not get trapped.

@@uklam102 👍thanks

@@uklam102 would you need to key the surface before the second coat? 🤔

Please show the world how to do it perfectly then.

Are you aware of the volume slider? You can also mute the music if it’s not to your taste.

@@TheDajoca why give knowledge away for free??

Why’s that Steve? You don’t actually believe Dinitrol check the work do you?

I’ve got seams like that on my MGB restoration project. They have been treated with a rust converter but I doubt it will penetrate fully. I’ll be “treating” with an epoxy primer and then a seam sealer.

We’d love to see the results Kieran

Custom 421 is a pure epoxy primer ( needs top coating) EM121 is a epoxy mastic primer finish ( can be left un-coated). No need to use one over the other, 421 is most popular for body panels, 121 for underbody. Both perform fine over an etch primer as long as that primer is well stuck.

Pppppp on p UYea p I

We would always recommend de greasing and salt removal first before wife brushing to remove any loose material

Hello Ben, I would suggest adding more air into the mix as it sounds like the paint isn’t atomising correctly. You’ll need to be around 3-4 bar and 44-58psi but it’s no fine art, what works one day won’t necessarily the next. I would almost start again with some cardboard and set up at 15% thinner and work from there adjusting the air flow needle.

@@uklam102 okay i will do thankyou 👍

@@benwilliams1298 I think we can do this as a video, some tips for setting up spray guns.

@@uklam102 maybe so would be very helpful for people like me. I know the gun comes with instructions but it would be helpful to see what they affect in terms of to thick, too thin, pressures, temperatures etc

Custom 421 is a very easy sand even at full cure, polyester spray fillers can typically give a very high build so I would suggest you’ll need to sand this thoroughly before coating with 421, otherwise you’ll sand through the 421. Would you not be better to use the 421 first and then apply the polyester over the top before applying another coat of 421. This way you would be sandwiching the polyester in between the 421

@@uklam102 Sorry I didn't explain myself very well that's excalty what I mean bare metal, 421,poly,421,base and clear I think the 421 would be a better foundation rather than a high build primer thanks I'm gonna try it that way on the next one

The 421 would definitely be better, you’ll really benefit from apply it to bare metal.

Hello Neil, EM121 is classified as a primer finish and therefore doesn’t require overcoating unless you’d like. This could be for extra protection or aesthetic reasons.

What did you thin it down to ?

I like your thinking!😀