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This helped with one of my faucets, but two others that I tried to replace that inner collar on are still just as loose as before, if not worse. I've replaced the rubber seal at the rear of the shank as well. Do you have any other suggestions? Would a new outer collar (the threaded part with holes) help as well?

Nice work!! Glad the video helped

Yikes!! Stephanie, yes we have a video that shows the step by step process of what a draft technician should be doing. You can find it on our channel homepage. For the amount of time spent cleaning a beer system, a good estimate is about 30 minutes for a small direct draw “kegerator” type beer system and for a long draw beer system with 12 taps would take 1-2 hours on average. Contact your draft maintenance company direct and explain, if not resolved, contact the distributor of the brand and describe your situation and they should have the solution for you. Good luck!!

The O-rings in this video are from a Perlick 630SS series faucet. I would first identify which version you have. Older Perlick 400 series has a threaded removable spout. Perlick 500 series looks similar to 600 series but use different part number O-rings. I would suggest you contact a draft equipment supplier and ask them directly for both o-rings. Look up Foxx Equipment Company, they are great

Lots of variables here. If this is localized to just one line and that line was pouring perfectly before, I would first ensure the keg is cold 36-38° and gas is on for that line. Second, inspect the keg seal as well as the bottom seal of the keg coupler to make sure there are no cuts or depressions on either. You can always hook up a different keg to test and see if it is a keg issue or a line issue. If you try these first, depending on your state, you can contact the distributor of that brand of beer and request they send a Draft Beer Technician to inspect and resolve

Good question Jim. It 100% could have been assembled in reverse at factory. Normal operation should have you open faucet towards your body at a 90° to begin the pour of a nitro beer. Opening faucet by pushing away from body should only open at a 45° angle to “excite” the nitrogen to break out of solution. If your nitro faucet is reversed from the above scenario, perform the following steps to flip the handle around. In the middle of the faucet on the side will be a set screw, while the faucet is fully assembled, remove that screw, rotate the top portion of the handle 180° and re insert the screw on the opposite side. Now the handle will open 90° when opening towards body and 45° pushing away from body. I hope this answers your question!!

Nice!! This fix is definitely for Perlick "Century" towers. There are actually two ways to do this fix, one being the method of spinning the shank out like this video. The other is if the shank is frozen and will not spin out from the tower, is get a small pick or hook tool and remove the snap ring on the shank, which once removed, will allow you to slide the collar off followed by the sleeve. Install new sleeve, slide on collar and reinstall snap ring to hold everything in place. Just do not bend or damage the snap ring trying to get off otherwise the leak will continue. Next time I'm in Minneapolis, I'll let you buy me a beer!!

Glad you used this video. If your leak was coming from the same location and on long draw type tower, there really are only 2 common reasons you would have beer leaking or dripping where the faucet meets the shank. First, the black or orange flat faucet washer located in the back of the faucet may be cut, flattened or missing. Replace as needed. Second would be a worn or warped shank sleeve. This video addresses this type of leak. If you are working on a direct draw or kegerator type system, 99% of the time it is a faucet washer issue. Lastly, really make sure the faucet teeth are aligned to interlock properly with the teeth of the shank. If you go over these steps, it should resolve your leaking issue. Let me know if you have any other questions and make sure to check out our other videos for help too!!

Great question!! I’d approach this in two ways. First I’d inspect the rear faucet washer and ensure it’s not cut/torn, fully intact and seated properly. Also make sure the rear faucet washer is not a generic black style and is actually a Perlick brand. They are orange and can be ordered from foxx beverage or Perlick direct. Second, I’ve experienced Perlick faucets interact like you’ve said with certain shanks where they feel extremely tight when it’s not. Try a different brand faucet to find out if it’s a shank issue or a faucet issue. Good luck and let me know how it goes!!

No problem!! Feel free to ask me any questions too

Thanks!! I’m glad it has helped