Відео

@@Jessehermansonphotography ha! That’s funny but also makes sense that we’re on a similar journey given the relatively limited lens selection out there. Agreed, the 500 f/4E seems like a great compromise and I’m with you on f/6.3. I think for my needs this is a lens that I’ll only be able to keep if I supplement with a lower light solution. I’m personally taking a step back to consider the field of lenses and what’s the best solution. I have a Sony portrait kit that I use for that work (don’t talk about it much here) so I could move over but not much better options there either. The Sony 600 f/4 is a bit cheaper used but still an expensive lens too. Love idea of that Sony 300 f/2.8 but I suspect I’d have the 2x TC on it all the time. Alas, thinking about what direction to go in. The 600 pf is outstanding though. It just is an only-daytime lens. Let me know what you go with!

@@MatthewRaifmanI agree with you. It is frustrating. I thought the 400 was going to be the answer for me, it was really nice and light but became a problem when the TC stayed on it all the time. It is definitely frustrating. I really wish that 600 was 5.6. I’m sure it would be bigger but would it be that much heavier? Idk. I’d love to do a 400mm f2.8 FL lens but I also value weight. I shot the canon 400mm 2.8 IS version 1 for a year… that was brute. I’ve seen a lot of folks say the Sony 300 is incredible with the 2x. My wife would kill me, if I switched back to Sony after the complaining I did back in the day. But the Sony 2x with the 300mm f2.8 and the A1 seems to be an amazing combo. Why does photography have to be so full of compromises. Haha

@@Jessehermansonphotographyyeah, this all tracks. I can’t image how heavy that 400 was. Pushing 10 lbs, right? What were your issues Sony back in the day? I like the 300 f/2.8 idea but I’d have the 2x on all the time and idk about that.

Ah forgive me, I meant to share that in the video. I approached this iteratively. I first had the 400 f/4.5 but realized that I was using it 99% of the time with 1.4x. The 600 pf definitely outperforms the 400 with the TC. So I decided it was worth going to the 600mm, especially so I could use the 1.4x on that for more reach when needed. Also worth noting that when you use the 400mm and crop, you lose the f/4.5 advantage because you crop into noise too (as well as losing resolution). So if you crop images, better to get the 600mm. There are a few situations where I could fill the frame with the 400mm and, in those, it is absolutely the better lens because it allows desired composition and benefits from a stop more light. Hope that helps!

Thank you for the detailed explanation.

Hey, thanks for the question. That issue with fine tuning zooms is that you can only set one value for the lens, not for each focal length in the zoom range. There are two ways to deal with this in my opinion: 1) pick the focal length you use the most and fine tune to that focal length; or, 2) fine tune it for a few values (say 14mm 18mm and 24mm) and average the values for your setting. Good luck!

Yes, you should be able to use it as a target, but you might want to jsut calibrate with their directions to take full advantage of the product.

@@Chris_Wolfgram I know! I took so many of him. What a great sighting!

@@MatthewRaifman hey so keep your eyes open, that same place has had 4 Different Longspur''s too. Lapland are somewhat regular... A handful each year 👍

thank you so much

@@DanelleFCG I’d love to comment but I haven’t shot the 70-200 on the z8. I did have the 70-200 f/2.8 on F Mount with the d850 and this lens is comparable but much lighter.

Yes it does! At least, with the Nikkor and tamron lenses I’ve used. You do not have to recalibrate every time.

Have fun out there!

I can do a video on this if I get time, but for small birds without a busy background, auto AF is actually very very good. I use 3D tracking or a custom small subject detect box for other situations. I always have dual bbf with a separate single point AF for overrides when needed.

I’m so glad! It’s a wonderful printer!

I’m not totally sure. Nikon definitely put their own spice into the mix on these remakes, including lens coatings. Wouldnt surprise me but I don’t know.

it's a polystyrene foam, kind of like foam core or board, except it is sandwiched between two layers of something else (vinyl maybe?) that give it a more smooth exterior that is a bit stronger and more damage resistent.

@@MatthewRaifman It's sandwiched between manufactured wood chips - which is WAY better and more rigid than standard foam board which uses paper as the bread of the sandwich.

Hey, thanks for the comment. I should probably do a follow-up video on this approach to mounting. I do have concerns about gatorboard for long-term application. Firstly, I don't the adhesive on the self-adhesive version I used is good enough. I have noticed bubbling after long term use, albeit in a relatively humid place in Northern California. Second, I think there are long term issues with the acid and the exposed image in general. For my use, it was all ok. I mounted the images and use them for display, customers buy separate prints that I custom make. I'm not selling the mounted product. However, if you are thinking of selling a mounted product, I might consider an acid free approach and using your own adhesive. Hope that helps! If there are other things you'd like me to hit on, let me know.

Sorry, just seeing this. The 600pf is crazy sharp and has fantastic VR. It’s fantastic as a daytime walk around lens. It takes the 1.4x TC wonderfully as well. The elephant in the room is the aperture. Now I absolutely have gotten higher iso shots that I can denoise sufficiently with software. But as a solo wildlife lens I’m struggling with it a bit. I photograph owls often and it’s just not bright enough for those situations. I’m routinely at 20,000 ISO around sunset and very slow shutter speeds to boot. This much is predictable, but if you’re going to stick to daytime, I don’t have faults. I don’t miss the flexibility for birding because I never fill the frame but for mammals like bobcats it could be an issue. If you need 800mm you might consider a used 800 pf though because you won’t lose the stop of light with the TC

@ Matt, Thanks much for that additional info. I ‘hear ya’ on the challenges of relying on it as one’s sole serious wildlife lens (for me, almost all little birds). Best regards, Craig

Weird export error. Will try to delete that in UA-cam. Sorry!

I’m a sucker for them. They always look so cozy.

Haha, totally forgot I did this review. There you go! My first impressions.

@@MatthewRaifman It was actually very helpful and honest. Not sure how I missed it before. Now to decide on a camera.

Yes, you should be fine. It's a pretty solid choice! It's on sale now too. That is the RolandPro sleeve. I love their products. Buy from Aliexpress and it'll be a lot cheaper, but will take a few weeks to arrive.

Thank you!

I’m wondering if the D5 has a different approach than d850. Are you able to get to the fine tune menu but then cannot activate the auto fine tune?

@@MatthewRaifman I believe I've figured out the problem. I opened up the lens to a full f1.4 and the AF fine tune procedure worked immediately. What a relief! I also discovered it will only work when in AF-S mode, and won't work in AF-C mode. Thank you for getting back to me. I appreciate your work and willingness to help. 👍

I print these myself. I use a canon pro 300 printer. You can see a more recent video where I walk through the printing process. I’d look at the pro 1000 or pro 1100 too.

So glad! It’s the Rolandpro. Love these for long lenses. Cheapest from Ali direct from china but takes a few weeks. Also on Amazon. www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804362161454.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US

This video should get you to the process, but because you can only enter one adjustment per lens, you have to choose which focal length. I would probably calibrate at both focal length extremes and then split the difference. Or just calibrate for the middle of the image: 200mm. Hope that helps