Відео

Annoying certainly but doesn't take that long to do. Its just that most don't realise that crud is in there. I keep a spare cleaned or new burn chamber so I can do it in around 20 minutes.

Yes. It won't shift encrusted carbon. Its one of the hardest things to tackle chemically. It may remove a little of whats left after manual removal, but you really have to get in there and pick it all out.

@Ralphs-House Might heat it up with a map gas torch!

Puts hairs on your chest - if you do indeed survive it. Shango66 is fearless when it comes to HT. Hats off to the man.

Oh if only Sir. The amount of damage underneath all that paper. That said, its all flat now!

No. I do light electrical work in my day job (maintenance) but self-taught over many years in terms of house rewiring but I always keep abreast of current regulations and I make sure I work safely. Actually, its not the wiring that bothers me at all - its chasing out walls I find tedious.

Poor Uncle Barry. I think he meant well Mike but heck - the holes!!!

It shouldn't do if the exhaust only goes down but if you've got a bend, for sure. It'll fill up with water through condensation otherwise. Nice tip.

Indeed. Think we raised close to £3k last year!

I suppose so. But they'd end up paying for it once meter was opened Ben - same as coin operated TVs!

As I said, E-08 is 'flame out' so in your case it could be one of several things. Glow plug only operates at beginning and end of cycle so unlikely to be that. Could be a fuel pump issue, soot/muck in burn chamber or a restriction in exhaust. The exhaust must not be fitted in such a way that water condensates inside it - ie pipe should go down and away.

@@Ralphs-House well im gonna have to take it apart an just check it, one thing is the line after the pump you can see air bubbles being shot into the feed line, is that normal with diesel or could that be the issue?

@@davidwalesby2426 Pumps don't cost a fortune and without a filter ahead of it, even a tiny grain of dirt can stop it operating correctly. I keep a spare pump to reduce down time. Make sure you're using good quality clamps on fittings and not the cheap ones that invariably come with these heaters. Upgrading to nylon fuel line also helps.

ty

@@davidwalesby2426 Also, if you smack one end of the suspect pump on a piece of wood (to reduce potential damage to inlet/outlet) you can often dislodge anything stopping it operating and put it back into service but a spare pump is wise as it means you can quickly get the system running again in the event of a fault.

No smoke on startup - investigate fuel pump or line/filter. If you get smoke on startup, fuel is fine so check for blockages/soot either inside heater or blockage via exhaust. Rough pointers.

@@Ralphs-House thanks. I've got no ticking noise at all. Upon startup the fan worked but the glow plug symbol appears with no ticking noise

@@Ralphs-House My heater is brand new, the jerry can was brand new, and my fuel was new. Everything was fine and it just stopped working mid use. I'm not sure if I'm missing something simple

Is there a fuel filter? If not could be bit of grit has jammed the pump. If you remove it you can often free it by smacking one end on a piece of wood.

@@Ralphs-House thanks for the insight! I cleared the lines and reconnected everything but when I try to prime the device nothing happens. And upon startup it doesn't finish. I'm confused as to why the pump is not working. Mine was brand new so I'm going to exchange it, but I'd still like to know what is going on lol

Me too! Who would have guessed it. Once you know, its straightforward but drives you mad in ther meantime.

Yep, thats the other scenario. No smoke gives that one away. Again, E-08 just means 'no flame' or 'flame out' - as vague as it gets :)

I'd almost guarantee this is the cause. Theres so much misinformation out there on the E-08 error. Hope it gets your dead heaters going again!

Let us know how it goes. If you still have troubles, we can suggest other causes. Back of burn chamber has to be scrupulously clean for a reliable start up. Never be persuaded to run alternative fuels either as despite the many claims, these heaters are designed to run on diesel/kerosene only. Veg or mineral oil soon fouls them - even when used as a mix. The ones that do claim they run on alternatives, never show follow up videos where they couldn't start it again afterwards. I also found that running it flat out for a minute or two prior to shutting down really helps keep burner clean. Not all heater controllers allow fine tuning of air/fuel but if you stick to the right fuel and run it up to high before shutdown, it should be hot enough to burn off any oily residue and hopefully shift any coking.

Worth a try, possibly with acetone (aka nail varnish remover) which is one of the limited chemicals thats said to dissolve carbon

@@Ralphs-House I used an ultra sonic cleaner to clean the injectors for my Transit engine. Two of them were really baked with carbon and the ultra sonic took it all off.

@@Ralphs-House BTW I took my heater apart in the process of diagnosing the e-08 and it is really clean. The mesh is is still shiny even down inside the burn chamber. The mesh around the glow plug looks very clean. Going to work on it tomorrow to zero in on the fault.

Would agree to some extent as I run at 14v too although that mostly keeps the first mesh clean. The second larger mesh at the back relies much more on a good fuel to air ratio to reduce carbon. Running the heater flat out for at least 30 mins at the end of use or once a week if running constantly, helps with cleaning.

Takes patience, but you should end up with perfectly serviceable burn chambers that are quick and easy to swap out.

And some of the best ones too. So sad we lost Mr West. We need him these days Mike.

Oh hello fella. Thanks for dropping in. See you Sunday!

hey Joe

@@mikecass8306 :^) hey Mike

@@matambaleyou up for crunching and fingers and coffee tomorrow? lol

@@mikecass8306 That's the plan, at least. Hope to see you then!

True enough although apart from the kettle, there aren't that many things that draw many amps these days. I guess if accompanied by less than desisable wiring skills on an old wylex fusebox. it could be a recipe for disaster. If the plug were to get that hot, the paper would be the least of your worries. Modern consumer units are so sensitive now, you only have to cough and the RCBO trips, a good reason why I rewired. Checkout 11 mins into THIS one: ua-cam.com/video/lrvP_L2dBpA/v-deo.html

Yes you can but thats a lot of cooking :)

Well theres always that fear that if you throw something out, you'll need it in a months time. Its knowing which bits Rob.....

Its probable that you always will if you heat it up since diesel/kerosene is oily by nature so some residue will still be there. Burning this off may or may not make starting easier but it does seem to help a great deal if you're trying to shift carbon.

A case of digging a lttle deeper than you think. Would recommend keeping a spare clean burn chamber so you can at least get the heater up and running again while you sort the other in your own time. Thanks for the positive feedback.

Agree. Look on ebay. I have one, plus a spare. It costs me around $5-$7 dollars a day.

However, you have to ensure it is fitted safely - especially the exhaust or you could die of carbon monoxide poisoning. The exhaust HAS to go through an ouitside wall. If its rented, the owner won't like you drilling holes in their property.

There are few solvents and cleaners that will even touch carbon due to the nature of its composition although there is some stuff called "carbon off" which seems to tackle it very well in ovens etc. Not tried it, but a long soak in that might yeild very good results. In the end though, I guess its a case of weighing up whether its worth the time/cost in cleaning against just fitting a new burn chamber. I suspect its a close-run race between the two. Good idea though. Thanks for your input.

Worth cleaning properly or swapping out burn chamber for a new one. Generally if theres white smoke, glow plug clearly works and its getting fuel. No white smoke (or very little) could mean insufficient fuel.

No, since it won't get to the back of the chamber and would still need scraping out. It doesn't take long to strip it down.

Mines sealed into a caravan with fire proof silicone so would have to strip the whole thing out and re seal it all unless it can be stripped in situ

You can spray it with carb and choke cleaner but the carbon is thick and chunky and will also need to be scraped out of the burner to properly clean it so disassembly is pretty much required to fix the flame out issues. I usually take a torch and cook all the carbon out of the burner I can, then scrape out any that is left and then finish with carb and choke to get the carbon out of the steal mesh that is behind the lip. A lot of people say these don't have mesh but they do have a mesh that runs around the outside wall of the burn chamber and it will get carboned up also and that is what the carb and choke cleaner works good for cleaning after cooking it with the torch. Make sure you let it cool down before using the carb and choke cleaner though. Carb and choke cleaner is flammable.

No. It needs manual work with a pick. Its actually less work (and factoring in the time) to just replace burner. I always keep a couple in my spares box. This is really for those that don't have a new one and are stuck.

Yes indeed. I'm hoping people get the message. You still get some say 'fuel pump' whenever this subject comes up. To be fair it could be a few things but absolutely, 'flame out' or 'non start' is what E-08 means.

Not tried it, but good tip.

😂 nightmare Mike. Who would have thought that cheap scanner could do it. Nice of Trump to do an intro!!!

Oh Hi Danish. Thanks for dropping by! Civic won't. Left it for days - same as soon as I connected the battery. I think its a Honda thing. 2006, but advanced compared to other vehicles of the day. I keep that scanner in the car ALL the time now - just in case it EVER happens again. Grrr. Still, that particular OBD2 scanner rocks. See ya Sunday.

Appreciated Mike. Drives you mad stripping it down trying to resolve it doesn't it. Takes even longer cleaning out that back area. Buy a spare burner as they only take about half an hour to replace if it comes to it. Main thing is stick to heating oil or diesel at all times.

Yep got one on the way as a back up now been 3 days after cleaning still running well thanks to you @@Ralphs-House

@@mikepacey1469 Pleasure. I won't pretend my channel has a consistent theme Mike, but some find aspects of it useful. It took me an age to actually figure out WHY it wouldn't start (lots of wild guesses out there), but basically if the mesh at the back is no longer able to soak up fuel (ie solid with carbon), not only will it not fire up, even if it did, it won't burn off that stuff either. Nice when it fires up isn't it :D

Lot of possibilities for that board. Could even be fitted inside a case with a row of 8 buttons and powered by a 18650 battery, loaded with stock replies to questions you get asked repeatedly. I gather, using the 3 dil switches on the board, it will even play a random one. Heavily used in props, toys and arcade games, I can think of numerous uses - even a doorbell with random chimes or an announcement when people come to the door. They might get lucky and get "Welcome my friend" but possibly "bugger off" - who knows....

Brilliant advice and bang on. So many of these controllers do not allow what are essential adjustments to ensure long life of the heater. Thanks buddy for taking the time to expand on this.

Well documented. Too rich a mixture. Its not always possible to adjust this, depending on the controller installed. It is frequently caused by owners trying to run them on unsuitable fuel mixes like engine oil etc. On the whole they seem to run best on Kerosene (heating oil).

I thought that but it would be difficult to predict how easy it would come apart after its been heated up to within an inch of its life. Exhausts are bad enough on cars. Easier (possibly) to have a removable flame baffle (theres a new word lol).

Ultrasonic cleaner. Even if you get a smaller one where half fits in flipping it over doing it in 2 cycles..

Almost certainly the cause. Virtually nothing about this problem anywhere other than what I've put together here - after much investigation. Sadly too many junk perfectly good heaters because they just can't start them anymore. They replace pump, no joy, they replace temperature sensor, no joy, etc etc and just give up. The back of that burner is crucial. It has to be clear of debris. Don't be surprised if you come across such big chunks they rattle inside and won't fall out. If that happens, shake them so they fall into the air vent area, and break them up there with a suitable pick. Make up a pick like mine. Coat hanger wire may be a little too thick or not strong enough so see what you can come up with. Don't ever run them on veg oil either lol

Well I was confident I had them cleaned out Couldn't get anything more out of them Since I also soaked them in Varsol for a couple hours I heated them up after and they both started a fire in the chamber to burn out the Varsol I let them burn out on the garage floor and they looked really clean I ran a copper wire and a 90 degree hook through them and put them back together. The first one went through the cycle white smoke etc and came up with a E8 and while sitting on E8 with the glow plug still on it fired but went out again since it had no fuel I tried it again No fire I then started the New one again white smoke No fire on this one either. E8 on both I was sure this was the solution Any more ideas. If it would start it would run Been hard to get started every time I have tried since new Impossible now. Cold here Will have to buy a different heater of some sort tomorrow. Dwight. @@Ralphs-House

@@dwightmcammond5597 What are you running it on? Make sure you use very clean fuel. Are you over-priming it. I never prime at all - seems to help.

I am using fresh diesel winter fuel the same fuel I use in my Diesel vehicles. I also am drawing air from inside Exhaust is less than 2 feet They both flood with fuel when I do a start up When I open up everything is full of fuel. @@Ralphs-House

I have tried both prime and non prime. I ordered 3 new burners and will see what happens when I install a new burner. Everything else seems to be working. I do see a comment or 2 about Alpine mode or the board fuel setting. What is your idea about that ? if it can be reset how do we do it? @@Ralphs-House