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@@SavingMaverick55 jsut replace the planks whole

You will probably have to bend no matter what, and the thicker it is, the harder it will be. Shorter pieces will fight you more, obviously... no leverage. I don't recall offhand what planks you need to repair or replace, but the builder of my Tahiti warned me that it was a "difficult hull to plank", and that he had to do a lot of steaming. I'm sure you see it, near the garboards, and at either end, in particular. Some of those pieces had to be bent in two directions, and twisted quite a bit. I did eventually get that short piece on the boat, after planing it down quite a bit and cupping the inside. It will be faired more on the outside, but mostly vertically, if you know what I mean, to match the existing hull section. But it made a huge difference to take that last 1/8" off the outside. I agree that with a scarf, you can expect to be tapering the ends quite a bit... I could have approached the butt joints the same way, but my instinct was to avoid having structural "dead spots" (aside from the butt joints themselves)... I believe that whatever joint you choose, the planks need to be "sprung" a little, if for no other reason than to keep them in step with the old structure.

Unless your scarfing the repairs in.

@SavingMaverick55 even then I don't feel it's right , and would be complicated you'd have to shape the plank to the curve ....

Not according to the best standards... but I have a funny feeling that with a repair, as opposed to a new build, especially on an old boat that has time to settle into its shape, one has some leeway. I would NEVER fit such a short plank on a new build, scarf or no. That little piece will be a patch, basically.

Unfortunately, most of them had enough glue under them to really foul the crew heads... eventually I gave up on trying to save the teak boards and the screws; just not worth the time and trouble. Many of the screws were also too short, or weird stuff like SS pan-head metal screws (obviously not original). BTW, black locust is also used for outdoor furniture and residential decks and walkways... it can finish up pretty nicely.

Good advice. The only things I don't have for that deck at the moment are the deck material and fasteners (I already have some suitable lumber for replacing all the rotten beams). I have a plan, and tools, and the energy to do it. But I get your point.Likewise, the point about project focus... right now I'm only bouncing between the hull and that deck, as dictated by weather. I just barely missed the window to complete the hull work, but so it goes. I'm trying to not even think about the many other punchlist items at this time. I also appreciate your concern, but I can be stressed for both of us, lol.

@SlowlySailing-lc1cs ill still be stressed for you to too bro, almost as much as I am for my own project too ahahahah.

@@bviyachtsalesgreat, now I’m stressed about you two and all my stuff

It's been done, often with great success, so why not? I still want something denser for my planks, but my current plan is to use some very old but nice southern yellow pine for the new beams, etc. I'm pretty sure the existing aft deck beams are yellow or pith pine. They are in very good shape, except where rainwater was allowed to trickle through it for years. Tempting to use it as planking, too, but the stock I have is just not quite clear enough. FWIW, I think you'll probably find it easier to get enough suitable Doug fir than pitch pine. And I think black locust may be about as close to teak as you can get (which is why I have chosen that). But whatever. The only reason all kinds of wood planking was used back in the day was because plywood was not a thing. In the end, you just have to make that deck right and take care of it, whatever it is made of.

I have heard good arguments from experienced people in both camps, but with my skillset I think planking will turn out better in this case. As for leaks, with the original system, what little intrusion seen initially was only about 1/10th of the story... better maintenance might have prevented the damage, for sure, but the problem is it can "look fine", but be hiding serious problems. But with a well-maintained plank deck, it will be easier to find problems and deal with them quickly and easily. Dimensional changes are more possible with planks, but again, I'd rather deal with recaulking, or fixing a warped, cracked or tumbled board than have to find the source of a plywood deck leak and deal with all the destruction made by water as it travels willy-nilly through layers. It stands to reason, though, that any part of a boat is only as good as the handiwork and maintenance. I'm sure your new deck is as good as any planked deck. But I'm willing to give planking a shot on this small area, and see how long I can make it last. And on a less practical note, I just want wood underfoot on deck. Screwing, gluing or nailing thin wood strips over ply, epoxy/dynel-covered or no, is asking for trouble, and epoxied decks without wood on top just make me less happy, even when perfectly done with antiskid and nice paint.

5200 can trap moisture and make a rot pocket. It is a good product for fiberglass not wood so much.

If I didn't enjoy it, I would hate it, because it's a constant PITA.

Facts. Sean your time is valuable balance the cost of items vs the time to save them.

If you refer to cutting the hardware, I only had a handful of bolts to cut, so it was no big deal. Winter has already literally put a freeze on this operation, anyway. There is no rush.

Which one? There are several cracks in the existing planks...

Doesn't really apply to my boat's hull (very different construction), and I am only actually scarfing in little bits on the edges where the worms got into the seams. The major stuff is plank replacement, with butt joints. Looks like a cool project, though- I will have to get back to it later. Right now, between just thinking about my own project and watching "Ship Happens", I'm exhausted half the time, lol.

Making a note: More....muttering....and...grumbling...got it!

@@goatman3828 It's generally not done below the waterline on planked boats...the primer and paint are epoxy, so similar proyective properties. All the damage to Nina's hull is from abrasion and shipworns (which got at the wood at seams where the flexible compound fell out). All of that could have been avoided by not just leaving her in the water for several years. The mast and other spars will get some penetrating epoxy, then many coats of varnish and paint. The mast was almost certainly finished the same way originally, but again, neglect. The birds went for the areas that were already cracked or peeling.

@@justanotheryoutube It wasn't free, and there's plenty of rot, lol.

I finally took the time to zoom in properly, and you are correct! It's also pretty apparent where the paint has peeled away... I thought I saw wood grain under the paint on part of it, but it's probably just grime highlighting some paintbrush strokes. Definitely SS with paint on it. Thanks for pointing that out.

Good idea, but the outer one is chafed through here and there. And they are made from the same stuff as the covers. Mostly, the tape seal at the top was not doing its job anymore.

@SlowlySailing-lc1cs maybe just replace them with heavy, tarred canvas sealed with pitch then. I don't think I've ever seen a 2 piece mast boot before.

@@SavingMaverick55 About the rollers: she was rigged that way at one time, including a nice pulpit; I will eventually do that. But I will most likely start out just snugging the anchor on the bobstay chain. Good enough for futzing around Barnegat Bay. PS: If you are so inclined, plz email me so we can talk outside these comments...I want to talk to you about that black locust (for starters).

EDIT: For some reason, I didn't think you'd posted an email address...I will reach out to you.

@@crelark Yes, I will test some of it soon. I figure it is too valuable to not try it out!

I will probably go that route eventually...she was set up that way at one time.

@@bviyachtsales I suspect their current position was part of the era when she had the anchors stowed on catheads. But I do have an older photo of her with the rollers set forward, and even a minimal pulpit setup. Very tidy and manageable, and before I take her out to sea for real, I want to re-create that. But for gunking around on Barnegat Bay, hooking the anchor on the bobstay chain should be fine. And if I change the shackle (or get a better, slimmer anchor) I can also stow it on the rollers without it damaging the boat.

Maverick's anchor roller is halfway out the bowsprit as well. I'm not sure I like having all that weight hanging off a spruce spar that's supporting so much else, but it seems to worked well for previous owners, so why fix what ain't broken...

I am pretty new to sailing, but I remember playing in the Bay as a boy (near Beach Haven) and I have heard (fishing-wise) that it's not what it used to be... brown algae is a problem there now, and it has a bottom-up effect on everything living in there. Probably a lot more boat traffic than in your day, also. Jet skis and the like.

For what my advice is worth to you: After caulking the starboard side, I was able to pull long, intact sections of the old cotton from the port side, and I saw it was driven in smaller loops... when I get to that side, I will be twisting it a bit more and driving a larger number of smaller loops. I guess it depends on the seam, but in general, it's probably best to be as uniform as possible and avoid mashing "extra" cotton in there.

@@petrpodobsky7005 Pettit's EZ-Fair

@@furphyman That's very clever. I have plenty of wood for the remaining plugs, but I will definitely do that.

@@SavingMaverick55Thanks. The tan is already Seattle Gray, but it is a very interesting gray that seems to change in different light...seems good against the red, and should look better with one more coat of red. Some advice: don't do what I did and use a white primer, unless the finish will be white. I used a dark gray under the gray, and it covered 100 times better! I had considered a dark green for the upper part, but although a bit arresting, I think the red looks good. I was going to do the insides of the bulwarks red, but that might have been overkill, so I used the gray there. Using Pettit's EZ Poxy on all the topsides this time, and I like working with it. The important thing is that she is painted...easy enough to change things later.

@SlowlySailing-lc1cs Duely noted. I'm planning to use George Kirby bottle green on the bulwarks and some sort of light greyish tan from them on the topsides. I'll definitely go with a darker primer. I'm still up in the air about using my ye olde red primer on the outside of the hull, but I think that even if I do, I'll still put regular primer over it before any topcoats go on.

@@SavingMaverick55 Nothing wrong with a traditional home-brew primer; Nina has been done that way before. I went with the Primocon because I had just those few weeks to get the stbd side "done", and I could actually get it off the shelf locally. It's supposedly good on wood, also...but we will see.

Yes, I know...I have barely begun that job.

I am paying for every day that boat is in that yard; as long as I keep paying, I can stay there. I would love to have worked nonstop on this project, but I work for a living, I live 150 miles from the yard, and since the boat is outdoors, weather interferes constantly. Then there is money- I cannot afford a lump sum for all materials, so progress also depends on cash flow.

The keel bolts and nuts look very good, and the heads are buried in the lead keel and well-sealed. Not gonna mess with them anytime soon. I did break off one floor bolt- didn't pickle the nut enough or scrape enough paint off. But no sign that it hourglassed. Again, I am going to back away from all that for now, after replacing that bolt, and just keep an eye on things. I don't think she is getting ready to drop the ballast or open up anytime soon.

I should give that a try...