Відео

I like the idea of welding the ends. I have done several re lining jobs and have used epoxy only on the liner. While the epoxy does work, the liner is distinguishable from the barrel making it an obvious re lining job.

0:14 in your case color hardening process do you use bone charcoal or potassium cyanide Sarah bath process? If it is not proprietary to say. Thank you for producing this UA-cam. Wonderful work.

Hi Michael, good video! What if the barrel that your relining is not straight? Will the new barrel correct it? Thanks !

Do you guy do flintlock work for hammer replacement. great video

What ammo does it take?

I'm sorry but using a hand drill and a vise, then drilling from either end, is not the optimum way of relining a gun barrel. Using a full length drill bit and then a reamer in a lathe would seem to me to be the proper way. Drilling from either end, even though you have a caliber sized guide can't possibly give you a dead straight bore, and drill bits alone can't give you a properly clearanced bore into which to put a liner. I would bet that that gun will never shoot straight again.

Ladder rear site made by yall? Did I hear that correctly? How much are they?

Gesh that is old-school dove tail.

Beautiful

I have a LC Smith that belonged to my Grandfather, I figure it has to be 100 (16ga). the forward wood part that comes off is missing. Can I get one made? I never intend to use this fine old piece again.

At 8:54 in the video (as published at the time of my comment), you make the statement: "the stock itself is a stock that's been made by us" The reality is that I machined that stock for Sam and can easily prove so through photos and written correspondence. The wood is unique and photos I hold easily demonstrate it is the same set. Gordon Cusens Australian Classic Rifle Stocks

Not everyone can afford a lathe!

I have a fully functional Tobin Arms with a 3 digit serial number, below 400. Patent May 23 - 93, Norwich, Connecticut. I can see that it was case color hardened. The stock needs refinished and the case color needs redone and barrels reblued. Would I ruin the value if I had these things done? More importantly, I am wondering what the value of the gun is , as is and redone. Thanks for the video and information 👍

I am thinking that with the fit that tight you would want to apply some green to the inside too, otherwise I think mostly the green gets scrubbed off during insertion. As you probably know liners were/are traditionally installed with acraglass, the bored size large enough for some acraglass to fill in between the liner and the old barrel. I get to wondering what kind of metal distortion the tig welding did??

Why not use a lathe? That hand drill makes me nervous!

A great video. It is always nice to see real skill in gunsmithing.

Fascinating

I took apart my BB gun one time and fixed it.

LW is a great barrel company from Germany 🇩🇪, they have a office in Georgia USA , I’ve bought from them for years 👍🏻👍🏻 top notch!

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9 months to get to that point. I feel good now. My 1873 has taken me about 2 years :). I finally finished rust bluing the barrel last week and all I need to do know is reassemble. What species of wood is the stock made from? Thanks for the video!

I cant believe you used a pistol drill to open up the bore! There is so much risk of run out even with a pilot, why not just use your Lathe and do it properly. and surely a hydraulic ram would be better than hammering it in with a club! You would also be better if you heat the barrel and freeze the liner, is this the first time you have attempted this?

Very interesting. Nice work!!!!

I have done many of these relines in both 22 and center fire calibers. If you are going to keep doing this type of work I strongly suggest a mill and lathe. I drill with piloted drills I grind the pilots on myself to fit the original bore than ream leaving .002 to .003 clearance doing this on half the length then the other half. Lessens drill run out. All this work is done on the lathe. I lightly scuff the liner then paint the bore and liner with red locktite. Heat the barrel and cool the liner then shove the liner in non stop then let it set a couple days to cure. Trim the ends cut the extractor cuts and dovetail slots if need be. All machine work is done on mill and lathe for accuracy.

Lock tire? In the old days we heated the barrel and drove the liner through. When it cooled we would silver solder in to place at the muzzle and breech.

Well done. I was surprised you filled the old dovetail before cutting it back in. I wold be a bit worried that the tig weld would make some sort of asymmetrical change to the steel structure of barrel at that point. I assume you have experience here, did you do something to mitigate the effects or is it simply not enough damage to the liner to ruin the trajectory of the bullet?

What a butchery! The Barrel should be held in a centred 3 Jaw chuck in a lathe, and a proper boring toolused frm the Tailstock. Once the new bore is finished and smooth, the barrel is heated to expand it, and the Liner cooled with Dry Ice ( solid CO2). Then the liner is slid into the Barrel Without Hammering! Once the two are in place, ends May be TIG welded,but usually heat shrinking is sufficient.

I had no idea that one could accurately drill out a barrel by using a hand drill. I know people file out a dovetails, but I could never do a good job of it myself. Since it was an antique I assume was why the original barrel needed to remain.

To bad thats not a 1892 but a 1894.the loading gates wrong for a 92

Nice work

no thanks parkerlined for me

This looks like an LC Smith stock. Interesting procedure. Could you be more specific of finishes? And were you get the root mentioned? Thanks,

Watching the screw driver piunded in the top like a punch was abit hard to watch. Not going to lie. Guess it was really in there huh?

Concentrations of Hcl and Sodium Hydroxide solutions

Thanks for fixing the old girl guys. Very prompt service too. Only dropped it off yesterday lol. Appreciate it.

Awesome project

Aonde consigo uma broca igual essa? Ou pode ser uma broca normal longa? Em um torno mecânico seria mais fácil fazer esse furo

Hey I just figured out a better way after I scuffed the side as you did, I then built up the platform/table until it is just a little deeper than the pad the last piece of wood I used to build it up is just enough to rest it on about an inch wide allows you to tilt it & also see what your doing & virtually impossible to damage more than 1/8 of an Inc of the stock I also put a speed control on the sander and slowed it down, I wish I thought of this before I messed it up

Love it keep them coming.

Excellent video, what does a reline cost approximately? Subscribed.

If you're reblueing but a good water boil ...

nice job although the checkering is a bit sus .😉

You used a belt sander? No, no, no. just no! Here is how it's done ua-cam.com/video/_nWVI_3Lo0Q/v-deo.html

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Great video, keep em coming !

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I just traded for one of the I hollis double guns couple weeks ago, its a rifle and shotgun set , but the shotgun barrels are in very poor condition and not useable, black powder cartridge rifle barrel’s-not to bad , the person I got it from said her father brought it back to U.S after ww2

Wow! Exactly what did you put in the mix and what proportion, when you did the case color