Відео

@@RobertJones-q8j Hi Robert, thanks for your comment. I will hopefully be making an in-depth dedicated video soon, testing the forced air burner shown in the video against a naturally aspirated design

Hi Volodymyr, thanks for your comment The firebricks were standard insulating firebricks (IFB) from Morgan Advanced Materials

Hi yes, a video dedicated to testing the performance of the burner and build instructions is in the plans. You can also download the CAD files from my grabCAD if you want to try building one right now.

Yes, if you can send me the code @@markosfraser3030

​@@markosfraser3030 Yes please post the code

That maybe the best way, but there is knowledge to be learned either in the upgrading, or the failure to perform. An informed decision either way. Not everyone can afford a 22" American Pacemaker, or a 14" Clausing, or even just a 9" Grizzley as a first machine.

@@johnrussell6620 Save up - you'll be saving yourself money and time in the long run - both those things being in short supply these days.

Hi, my modified CAD files are Solidworks 2022. I can try to create .step files if there is sufficient request for them

@@markosfraser3030 Thanks for info. I think more like clasic, paper drawings in pdf format. Something like full assembly or few subassemblies, will be enough for someone who is interested, but use anodher CAD, or do not use it at all, or just want to take a quick look and maybe grab some idea for other project...

@@markosfraser3030 .step files would be nice! I don't use Solidworks. Great Project!

Thanks Brian! I already have a lot more video ideas, I'm just trying to find the time to film them all 🥲

Hi Paul, thanks for your comment. The vertical gaps at the outer perimeter are incidental from the geometry of the bricks and the furnace. Ideally the vertical gaps would not exist, but to grind both faces of the brick fully flat to the correct angle would require removing a lot more material, and probably an extra brick.

Hi Robert, The specific mount shown in this video and up on my grabcad is for 25.4mm OD tubing. I actually used thick-walled DOM tubing because the marginal cost was worth it for the extra quality, rigidity, and ability to tap the tube walls If you want to mount the diode to a burly, you could download the f3d file, and try adjusting the design sketches to match the dimensions of your machine. I can recommend a piece of software called 3d-tool (www.3d-tool.com/downloads/) (setup_3dtool_freeviewer.exe) to inspect the STL files of your burly, and transfer the exact measurements into the f3d design sketches

@@markosfraser3030 - Thank you for the information. I will look into the 3d-tool app. Another question. I am going to hook up the NEJE A40640 to the burly with a RAMPS 1.4. What is the output voltage on the RAMBo board for the PWM output and what is Neje required input PWM voltage? What GCode commands are you using to drive the laser (M3, M4 or M106)? I am still trying to determine the proper pin for the RAMPS 1.4 PWM. I could drive the laser with D6 (FAN, 12VDC output) with the M106 but would like to with M3, M4, and M5 g commands. Last what version of MPCNC version are you using for the Rambo? Thank you!

Hi Robert, I'm using pin 45 for laser control. It's 5V logic, as discussed in this forum post (forum.v1e.com/t/rambo-1-4-5v-logic/31128). The A40640 should ship with an adapter board, allowing you to control the laser module with a control signal anywhere between ~2.4 - 12V iirc. I configured lightburn to generate GCode with inline laser commands. Refer to this forum post (forum.lightburnsoftware.com/t/laser-power-inline/15493/24?page=2) and marlin/grbl documentation (marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M003.html). You'll definitely want to use inline commands, because laser control through fan output is very slow and will not be suitable for engraving raster images. I would strongly encourage you to purchase a higher-end control board for you CNC. The RAMPS board is great, but too slow for high speed laser engraving. It looks like Ryan is selling the MPCNC with SKR boards now. It would be hard to go wrong with an SKR controller, or any other generic STM32-based control board. My version of the MPCNC shown in this video is a primo model. Hope this helps, best of luck.

Hello Mark, I am looking at the NEJE A40640 or the E40 laser module for mostly cutting. I was also wondering about the performance of the A40640 module since you are using one? How does it fair with cutting? I am looking at mostly balsa and light ply for cutting.

Hi Robert, The A40640 would be perfectly suitable for cutting balsa and light ply. There are lots of other youtube videos demonstrating it's performance in those materials. Air assist would be beneficial for that application; you should try to set up an air compressor and regulator. It will also generate huge amounts of smoke and present a serious fire hazard, so make sure you have good ventilation and a safe (non-flammable) area for laser cutting. Creality and other companies are also now producing very powerful benchtop laser cutters, you might consider just purchasing a dedicated laser cutter machine off the shelf, because the MPCNC is a heavy machine, and not the best for laser cutting (it can't accelerate quickly, a lighter toolhead is better).

Its a 12v, 72w switching power supply. It's a sealed brick unit so I don't have to worry about dust

I'm using the stock firmware that Ryan has flashed to the Rambo board. It is a slightly modified version of Marlin V2.0.7.2

Ty Ryan! I've been loving my MPCNC and I'm looking forward to making lots more tool mounts and other content with it!

@@markosfraser3030 The gcode at 1:08, does that work without an "M3 I"? I thought I had tried that and it was required. If not, that is great and it is even easier than I thought.

Sorry another one. The speeds you are using, what board do you have? The boards I tested with Marlin I could not get raster much faster than 22-28mm/s I did some vector cutting and I maxed out slower than 100mm/s as well.

@@allted When setting up the gcode script, I recall looking into whether or not M3 was required. I believe since the firmware on the Rambo is configured for LASER_POWER_INLINE, it is not required because power is set directly in G1 ... G5 as per the docs: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M003.html Whether or not my assumptions are correct, I tested it out and it seems to work without M3 : ) Regarding speeds and the board, I'm using the stock Rambo board that shipped with the kit (Marlin V2.0.7.2). For smooth vector cutting/engraving I've pushed the machine up to 60mm/s I believe. But the materials usually require speeds of ~4-18mm/s to get through them in only a few passes. Although I love it, the 8 bit board is quite limiting. Even running vector cutting with Lightburns perforation mode enabled can bog the controller down as there are just too many gcode instructions per second for the thing to handle. For raster engraving of images with Lightburns dithering or greyscale, I can't push it much faster than 18mm/s without the machine stuttering and ruining the engraving. For those reasons I'm considering building a new dedicated laser cutter using a more modern controller with more processing power.

@@markosfraser3030 You can flash GRBL directly on the rambo and not have to move a single wire. In the forums I did some testing and you can see the huge speed boost that got me. Of course I only tested raster, since anything vector I did was not a big deal, Marlin handled that fine for me. Definitely need to look into the M3 thing, I added it to the firmware and we have had to have people include it a lot in the forums to get things to work. I have a laser hooked up currently but it is running GRBL, I need to flash back to test.

It may be possible but I have not attempted it yet. I'm also considering building a forced air, liquid fuelled burner which should be capable of melting iron and steel. Unfortunately, the firebricks I used in this furnace are not rated for those temperatures, so I'd have to replace them with higher temperature bricks

Every naturally aspirated burner design that I have tested performs significantly worse than the forced air design shown in the video. If you can recommend a good naturally aspirated design that you think will match the performance of my forced air burner, please send me a link to the design

Hey thanks for your comment! I recently have abandoned naturally aspirated burners in favour of forced air, you can see an example of my new burner in this video I posted: ua-cam.com/video/KktUJiqQ2Ug/v-deo.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE Injecting the gas against the airflow is a really good idea! I think I might try redesigning my forced air burner to incorporate this idea, or perhaps add some fins/turbulence-inducing features on the inside of the burner body... I'm going to hopefully make a few more videos soon covering much more rigorous testing of various burner designs : )

Ty that's a good idea!

Hey thanks that sounds like a great tip! I'll give it a try next time I strip down another propane tank

he forgot to wear his safety crocs :D

It would be possible to cut the bricks with a saw, but there would be no way to achieve such a precise and reproducible fitment as my jigs produced by working freehand. To achieve a comparable fitment you would have to construct a jig that holds the brick and guides the saw. And all the curved faces would still be time-consuming to shape using a rasp.

Hi, You can actually find a CAD model of the burner on my GrabCAD (linked in the description), so you could 3D print one yourself and try it out. It is designed to print entirely without supports, and with minimal infill material. I don't have any other content posted about the burner at this moment, but I hope to soon make a video comparing the performance of my forced-air burner against other standard atmospheric burner designs.

@@markosfraser3030 fantastic, thank you!

Maybe it depends on your tank's valve guard. I did one last night and could not snug the valve with the guard on, so i used a hacksaw to cut it off, giving better access the valve.