Відео

@@paulradice3534 you are correct, but that removes paint, even washing your car removes paint every time.. I learned that from a chemist, it worked for PPG, the paint division. He was retired when I knew him back in the 70s. He had an international car or truck whatever they’re called it’s like an SUV from those days, they dipped those things in zinc. He never washed it. because I asked him about it since he lived near me. And he explained… I also do not experiment with new miracle coatings like ceramic or there was a product called new finish that is still on the market. I tried it in the early 1980s on my two year old Ford van that I bought new. It was the one that was advertised as “the once a year car polish quoteit comes in an orange, oval bottle shaped like a hip flask. I put that on my two year old van, and about a month later, I brushed up against it with my hand, and I had red paint pigment on my hand. That stuff ruined my paint. The problem with that was, I had that van for 31 years. It was red. And red paint is the one that is the most difficult to make because the pigments For red paint are very deep in the Earth compared to other pigments used for paint color.. One other little thing. my last pick up truck, a GMC canyon that I bought new, the one I got rid of with 42,000 miles on it because under the truck was completely covered with sheets of rusty decaying metal from the salt they throw here. I didn’t use fluid film on that truck because the owners manual said I would void the warranty if I did that. So I was confident did General Motors had confidence in their corrosion protection.. until I really investigated some years later, when I had to put brake rotors on the front, and I saw the extent of the rust. I washed the truck maybe twice or three times a year. When I traded that rust bucket in on my ram, it looked like new. it shined, it had no dents, the bed had no scratches because it was not a work truck, if I’m gonna have transportation, I have transportation I can use as a truck also or pulling a trailer, which is how I transported my motorcycles for the whole family when we would go dirtbike riding, we only use the bed of the truck for all the gear and gas cans.. but that truck literally looked like it was maybe six months old when it was nine years old. Just like my ram, it looked great, the paint shined, they actually gave me full retail price when I traded it in on my ram. Trade in value with something like $12,000, average retail with something like 15,000., they gave me $17,000 for it on trade, after I beat up three different dealers to get the best price which was over $10,000 off of sticker without paying all the BS charges like dealer prep, Scotchgard on the seats, road hazard warranty for the tires, paint protection, warranty, even etched glass, where they edge the serial number of the vehicle in the glass that they claim that reduces the chances of the vehicle being stolen for the glass.. I don’t fall for any of that stuff because I’ve worked with car salesman when I sold motorcycles for 17 years and I’ve learned a lot of the tricks that dealers pull on customers to shake them by the ankles a little more.. but my point is, I only washed that 4 x 4, crew, cab, GMC canyon less than 30 times in nine years, and the paint looked fabulous. That’s why they gave me the actual Kelley blue book, retail value for the truck, which also saved me paying taxes on a smaller cash difference.. but you are correct, running your hand across my paint, I can feel that there are particles still attached to the paint in places. Because my truck sits out 365 days a year in the sun… but using some abrasive or wax with cleaner, or even using that Claybar, could possibly damage the clearcoat by going over the same area with clay that has particles trapped in the surface of the clay. So I just put pure carnauba wax without cleaner on my truck, over the embedded particles. my truck is eight years old soon to be 9.. i’m sure it could look better if I use a Claybar on it, and some very mild buffing compound and an Orbital buffer, which I have a porter cable DA.. and I have a Dewalt buffer. but you better know what you’re doing when you use one of those things because you can burn through the paint on the corners in an instant.. I know just enough about it to realize that I don’t know what I’m doing when it comes to those things. I’m not really concerned with how it looks as much as I’m concerned with protecting it. but you are right, you have a keen eye !!

@@florinovidiubors117 these engines and all engines make some sounds. The sound you hear the most on the Yamaha Venture V4 motorcycle engine is that continuous whine.. The tone of the sound increases in pitch, just like going up the keyboard on the piano… that is 100% normal. assuming we are talking about the same sound common to all these engines, that sound is a gear on the left side of your engine crankshaft. just like a bicycle crank where the pedals are connected, has a gear that the chain transmits the power from your pedals to the gear/sprocket on the rear wheel.. you provide to the horsepower on a bicycle by peddling. You turning the crank at the pedals, and the energy gets transmitted to the rear wheel by the chain. on your motorcycle The engine has that gear on the left side of the engine. Rather than using a chain which some motorcycles do use to transmit the power from the crankshaft to the input shaft of the transmission, the ventures use primary gears, two gears. One on the end of the crankshaft spins a larger gear around the outside of the clutch basket. what you are hearing is the sound of those gears meshing.. that is the most efficient way to transmit power from the crankshaft to the transmission, there is no maintenance like there is with a primary chain which Harley Davidson‘s use. Those chains gets sloppy and worn, and they have tensioners that have to keep them from becoming too loose.. so the sound your hearing is 100% normal, it is just your primary gears on the end of the crankshaft and around the clutch housing/basket which spins the transmission shafts constantly as long as the engine is running, whether you are in gear or not..

@@natewitt6334 I’ll make a video for you

@@playsportfun3356 I purposely did not get it on my brakes. But I watched a video of a shop that sprays fluid film on customers, cars, and they got it on the brakes because they were just Spraying everything everything with it to get the job done.. The guy spraying everything commented while doing the job that The overspray of fluid film will just burn off of the brakes .. that’s probably true to adegree. But if you have something like a wheel cylinder or a brake caliper leak, brake fluid onto the pads or brake shoes, you must replace them because those brake shoes and brake pads are contaminated… my brake fluid is a lot different from fluid film. I still went out of my way to not get it on my rotors… I didn’t spray my calipers and fittings and spindles and splash shield with fluid film, I touched those parts up as best I could using that sponge that I applied fluid film to my wheels with.. I wish I had been making videos when I had my GMC canyon 4 x 4 crew cab that I bought new. I am not exaggerating when I tell you that there was nothing under that truck that was not encrusted with rust at 42,000 miles due to the salt attack… The state inspection station I went to, the older mechanic it was working there, called me out into the shop while my truck was up on the lift. He pointed out that my GMC truck bed was actually losing structural integrity due to the rust… my GMC and my rim or not work trucks. They are my personal transportation. I have never been without a truck since I was 17 years old because of my motorcycle addiction. I just bought my 112th motorcycle last September. I don’t haul the motorcycles in my truck when I can help it. I have a small utility trailer for that. So the only hauling my trucks do is pulling that trailer occasionally… The only thing I ever hauled in my GMC pick up, was a clothes dryer once, and a picnic table kit. Other than that, just the occasional groceries or a few bags of mulch. But they were not work trucks… my GMC lost the brakes due to rust two times, I lost the fuel line and the fuel pump due to rust. I bought that truck new and in the owners manual and said do not rush proof this vehicle, or you will void your warranty. I was actually glad to see that note in the owners manual, because I assumed that General Motors had a lot of confidence in their corrosion protection under the chassis so I paid no attention to it until I started having rust destruction problems. I was lucky that the rust did not come through the body yet because when I traded it in after trying to sell it for a few months with no luck with 42,000 miles on it and not a scratch on it, they gave me full retail price on trade and they reduced the price of the ram because they had two parking lots full of these trucks that we’re not selling at the end of the year in 2017.. so they reduced the price of my truck for 49,400 before taxes to 39,000. I got them to reduce the price like that because I had three dealers competing for my business. That took a couple weeks to go through that ordeal of fighting with the dealers., and walking out on two of the dealers, only to have my phone ringing when I got home with a better deal.. I used to be a motorcycle salesman, part time for 17 years, and I learned a thing or two from other salesman that used to be car salesman .. so when I go to buy a new vehicle, my wife doesn’t even like to go with me because I am the impossible type without being rude.. so I was not going to go through that rust destruction with my ram. That’s why I took a weeks vacation to rustproof my truck when I brought it home brand new. I would work on it for maybe three hours one day just doing the two rear quarter panels and wheel wells and the floor of the truck under the bed. Then the next day., I would remove the plugs in the rocker panels and go up the door, posts and windshield post and rear window area, then the next day I would do the front fenders by removing the liners and the headlights . then, the next day I might do the doors completely all the way up in every water, drain hole, and inside the bumpers and remove the spare tire and coat the floor again and coat the spare wheel. Because the wheel on my GMC was so rusted even though I never used it, I didn’t trust it so I ended up buying an actual wheel instead of that donut that it came with. i’m sure you get the picture, I didn’t work eight hours a day for seven days, I worked a few hours every day on my ram.. here on December 1, the day after that snow storm that hit Erie, Pennsylvania and western New York around Buffalo, we didn’t get more than a dusting that evaporated within a few hours from that here just north of Pittsburgh, but my wife and I went shopping about 30 miles north where we usually go to buy feed for my animals.. about 10 miles into our trip north, the roads were chalk white from salt. That was not even a week after I made this video of putting the fluid film on my bumpers and wheels, and spraying the bottom of the body along the bottom of the rocker panels right on the paint. Most of the cars where we went shopping were pretty Covered with salt. I was smiling all the way home, because I usually put off coating the wheels and bumpers and grill with fluid film until around Christmas. But I was a few weeks early this year.

@@playsportfun3356 when I removed the plastic inner fender liners, and when I removed the tail, light housings and the headlight housings, I had complete access to the inside of the front fenders. but I had to make a tool out of some hoses to get around the structures that were supporting the quarter panels just above the wheels, because removing the fender liners from the rear wheel wells didn’t give me total access to that area from the gas cap door on the driver side or from the tail light direction on both sides. That hose made it possible for me to get through some of the openings in that reinforcement bulkhead in that area. I put the 3 foot long hose on the end of the spraygun, and I was able to saturate that inside area that I could not have a direct line of sight too. I’m pretty confident that I completely blasted that area with fluid film before I put the fender liners back in. when I installed the mudflaps, after installing the fender liners, and putting the fender flares on, I was careful not to drill any holes in my truck. I used the existing holes. I did spray up inside all the doors with that small hose that attaches to the spray cans as far as that hose would go inside those drain holes on all the doors.. I also removed the spare tire, lowering it down from the cable that holds it up against the floor of the truck so that I could thoroughly spray the floor of the truck and hand coat just the wheel by hand When I was a motorcycle tire test rider for Continental tire company, I learned from them that you should not put anything on tires, not tire shine, especially not armor, all, which reduces rubbers resistance to ozone, but I did learn if do you want to make tires look good, it is OK to use glycerin on the side walls only or just , distilled water would be ok because it does not have chlorine in it.. I still have little drips of fluid film under my truck where I park it on the asphalt when the temperature goes up above 75° occasionally. Spraying that stuff is like throwing Handgrenades, you just have to be close., and it will travel when it gets warm, even into the bed of my truck from underneath, and I don’t see how it could have bled through that coating that the factory sprayed in my truck bed. That bed would have been corroded by now because instead of fluid film, coming up through the floor, that would have been salt, water coming up through the floor… that’s called capillary action. But I didn’t even realize that there were two full length seams in that floor until I saw that stain under the rubber floor mat when I removed it to clean the bed out after I picked up 20 bags of mulch several years ago.. when I see these trucks riding out, I will go and take a look at them up close. I even have a video on UA-cam, and one place these trucks. Rustad first is the lower cab corners in the back of the cab. I was able to get all the way in there with that attachment hose for the spray cans. I’m pretty confident because like I said, I took five days, I took my whole week of vacation just to rust proof this truck. Because this truck sticker price was more than I paid for my first house in 1979… I took off one wheel at a time per day, and removed one inner fender liner per day… I removed both floorboards and the brackets for the floorboards so that I could get fluid from behind the brackets on the frame. I didn’t have the rubber floor mat in the back yet, I did not have the Tonneau bed cover yet, I didn’t have the fender flares, or the mudflaps yet.. I didn’t have the tailgate ladder yet.. I also hand coated the disc, brake splash, shields by hand, and using a long artist paintbrush, because on my last pick up, when I had to replace the front brake rotors on my GMC, 4 x 4, canyon, crew cab. Those splash shields on the front discs were completely rotted off. there was nothing there. And they had such a stupid design, The brake rotors were bolted to the backs of the spindles. You had to remove the front axles, destroying the speed sensors for the traction control in the process, because they are in little tin cans in the center of the hub, and they were completely annihilated by the salt and fell apart when I took the spindles off to put the new. brake rotors on. I had to buy spindles with speed sensors built in in addition to the rotors and brake pads on that canyon. The reason their canyon was so rusty is because the owners manual said, if I rush, proved it, I would void the warranty. After just a few years, I lost the brakes twice, I lost the fuel line in the fuel pump to rust, and there was not a section of. the Frame that I could not have scraped off sheets of rust. There was nothing under that truck except for the stainless exhaust that wasn’t rusty at 42,000 miles. I was lucky that I kept it so clean just like my ram is now because they gave me retail forward on trade because it was so clean and there was no rust coming through just yet. In addition to giving me retail for my truck, not wholesale, not trade-in, they gave me a retail price. They also knocked off $10,000 off the sticker of my ram. So I just had to write them a check for $23,000 and give them my canyon for my ram which had a sticker price of 49,400 before taxes and all those little things they shake you by the ankles for which I was not going to pay.. I did that by getting three different dealers competing for my business towards the end of the model year in November. They freaked out a little bit when I paid them cash because they were counting on me financing it. Because they get a “ gratuity “ if you finance… I can’t imagine a rust proofing place doing a more thorough job than I did on my truck, fenders doors, quarter panels, rocker panels door and windshield post all the way up to the roof inside every hole of the hood removing the headlights and tail lights in the fender liners, and the tailgate access panel.. my very first brand new truck I bought in 1977 was a Ford Econoline 150 van. They had already Russ proved it so I had to pay for it. It’s supposedly had a three-year warranty. There was a hole the size of a baseball after the first winter in the rocker panel. Apparently they didn’t rush proof inside the rocker panel. They stuffed newspaper inside that hole and sprayed over it with paint. They didn’t even slap any Bondo on there. And that was the dealership that did the rust proof job. Rustproofing a car is a dirty job… usually the low man on the seniority list is the one that gets the dirty jobs like rust, proofing, cars, changing, tires, changing oil, low tech, low, pay, dirty jobs. I don’t like people working on my stuff. that includes rust proofing my vehicles.. you can pay someone to do a job, but you can’t pay them to care as much as you do..

@Jodyrides sounds like you got it covered. The fluid film hoses have a tip on them. One with a brass fitting with like 1/8" hole out the end other has a hole out the end and 3 or 4 holes clocked around the barrel shape. I'm sure you could make that for your. I have a question for you. Do you think fluid film which is just non toxic sheep oil would hurt tires? No aggressive chemicals.

i never thought of removing the plastic fender liners to do a respray.. I sprayed to much fluid film under this truck that i doubt it needs resprayed because of the results i see behind my wheel wells around the tail lights from under the truck which is more exposed to tire spray than the backs of the fender liners.. i am seeing spots here and there under the truck that i missed with the first application ,behind screws,behind clamps tops of things like the rear axle housing places like that that i could not see.. those are the only places i am seeing rust.. my main concern was the fuel and brake lines and the body sheet metal and the bumpers,which i see bumpers so rusty on pickups from time to time,that they look like i could break the end of the bumpers off by hand at times... truck bumpers are not required to be made to the same higher standard that car bumpers are..

@@jeremys3987 thanks. I really mean that . it’s nice to know somebody would Take the time to drop me a note. I do appreciate it.

@@stockstunna my Kawasaki, Z 400/2019 model worked flawlessly. I don’t think I ever even missed a shift on that machine. Even after sitting for weeks, it would start instantly. Surprising Low end and mid range grunt. I was getting an indicated 80+ miles per gallon at times. it’s a great machine for beginners or for experienced veteran riders. Great commuter bike with a few additions like a rack for mounting a trunk. I needed more luggage capacity, so I sold my Z 400, not because I was dissatisfied with it. I sold my Z 400 because somebody offered to buy it, right at the time a motorcycle I was interested in became available… A Honda 2010 NT 700 V without ABS which I prefer. The NT 700 has built in saddlebags add the one I bought came with the Honda line rack and large capacity trunk that will hold to full face helmets.. So I had to do it because I don’t really have a lot of room in my garage for more than three motorcycles since I bought a riding tractor for cutting my grass. Before I head to tractor, I had 8 motorcycles in there… I am a compulsive motorcycle junkie.. I have videos and progress. Reports of my Honda and T700 I bought to replace my Z 400 Kawasaki on my UA-cam channel. I had some trouble with the Honda because it sat for about eight years with fuel stabilizer in the fuel tank. I have videos of inside the fuel tank on my UA-cam channel what that stuff did in there which caused me to be stranded out on the road for the first time in decades. basically the fuel that I added to the gas tank and riding the bike with that fresh gas in there, loosened all of that crap in the gas tank that was stuck to the sides and to the bottom of the fuel tank, and it all hit the fuel filter on the inside the fuel tank, fuel pump at the same time, shutting off the gas and stranding me.. but I got that sorted out and now the bike is running as it should.. I had the Z 400 for over two years. I like to have bikes that are completely different from each other. So I had my Venture and the Z 400. But I preferred to have more storage for the extra jacket and a trunk large enough to hold my full face helmet for when I would arrive at destinations. The reason I need room for two jackets is, when it’s cool in the morning I wanna wear something warm, but when it warms up into the 70s or 80s or even 90s which is pretty rare for Pennsylvania to go up into the 90s. But I need to put the heavy jacket somewhere and get out my mesh jacket. The Z 400 was a perfect bike, never had one single issue caused by the bike. I did have a check engine light. Come on when I went to a larger counter shaft sprocket. It turns out that the computer saw different information and RPMs coming in., so it triggered a check engine light because it detected the change in engine RPMs compared to wheel speed.. so I went back to the standard size counter shaft, sprocket, and did the reset procedure, which is to shut the bike off, turn the bike on and start it, let it idle for about 30 seconds and drive it for at least 15 minutes above 25 miles, an hour, repeat that three times, and the check engine light will go out.. when the check engine light first came on when I was about 80 miles from home, I pulled into a gas station, and I had all the plastic off around the engine, and the gas tank lift it up. I checked everything, water, oil, battery, all the connections, I couldn’t find anything wrong. so I headed home and did some research.. so the check engine light was not a fault of the bike, it was actually the bike working to detect faults, these Z 400 Kawasaki‘s are perfect bikes, right out of the box

@Jodyrides thank you so much for this amazing answer

Pennsylvania is beautiful in the fall. Had just enough weather to get my new to me venture fixed up and 1 ride in. Now we got winter 😆

@@denvermullins9224 sounds to me like you have a 650 deauville??? The 700 has a cable clutch activation.. I would have thought they would go from a cable clutch to a slave cylinder, hydraulic activation, unless I’m missing something, do later years than 2010 have a hydraulic clutch activation?

@Jodyrides no, you helped me with my 2007 y

Yamaha royal star venture

oooooohhhh. The fact that you responded to my Honda video, threw me a curve. I remember seeing your name , but I just didn’t make the connection with the Venture. I hope I can get out on the Venture Tuesday before Thanksgiving here because the temperature is going to be in the upper 50s and partly sunny. They haven’t spread any salt as I can tell yet. I would love to go about 50 miles east and ride through the area where they have got over a foot of snow Over the last couple days because of that storm I just got home in time to avoid the rain in this video. It rained pretty good and we had some wind, I had to spend about half an hour just picking up tree branches. That’s why I parked my truck in my wife’s car away from the trees and they ended up in front of my garage door… On your Venture did you just replace the seal in the slave cylinder or did you replace the slave cylinder completely? How long did that job take? Not that it matters, but did it take less than an hour?

@@gregb8824 these last two videos I put on, were actually meant to be one long video. But my camera stopped, and then started another video so I had to put them both on separately. it depends on how many miles I have on my oil if I would let the break sit for the 90 days or so of winter here in Pittsburgh Pennsylvania, USA. If my oil had a lot of time on it, like may be more than 2000 miles, I would change the oil before the hibernation months December through February usually.. I just put two videos on a few weeks ago, showing that I did actually change the oil in both of my street bikes within the past 300 or so miles, so I’m good. The problem with oils is, once they are in the engine, exposed to gasoline, the oil starts to degrade. But I don’t believe it’s a problem. I have Resurrected bikes that sat for years with the same oil in the crankcase for years, and I really hasn’t been any issues. But you can’t go wrong by changing the oil before winter, that way you’re ready to go in the spring.

@@Merel-te4kb The green light in my video above the red oil, low level warning, light, is my neutral light.. that is not my Low oil level warning, light.. in my video with the key on, and the Killswitch on the right handlebar control, housing in the off position, I push the start button to test the light that is supposed to light up when you have a condition of low crank case oil level. That light on my machine is red.. The green light in my video is above the oil, level warning, light and that is my neutral light. It is green… if you have your owners manual for your royal star venture. Go into your owners manual, and you will find this procedure in the owners manual for testing the low Oil level warning system.. I guess maybe I could have just put my machine in gear for this test so that my neutral light would not be illuminated, and only my low oil level red light would appear to come on when I push the start button to avoid confusion..

no, I have never had a reason to change a shift shaft, seal on these machines, but I have changed a few shift shaft seals over the decades, but not very many. I’ve changed more output, shaft seals, and crankshaft seals, and wheel bearing seals. but mostly fork seals.. make sure that is where it is leaking by cleaning the area with brake clean spray, then get a can of athletes foot spray powder, and spray the area with that powder, that makes it easy to see if that is the leak area when it has that powder on the clean surface.. see all the splines that the shift shift linkage attaches to, and pinches the end of the shaft. See if there are any sharp edges that need to be smoothed out to prevent them from damaging the new seal. I can’t picture where the seal is exactly on these engines, since I have never had to change one on these engines. But when replacing a seal, after I pry the old, one out carefully, Pay close attention to how far into the case, the old seal sits..making sure I do not damage the shaft or the case, I will make sure that the shaft does not have a lot of play up/ down.. of course, clean the shaft, especially where the seal contacts the shaft.. The seal will come out easier if you have the edge around the outside of the seal clean, no ridge of buildup dirt around the outside of the seal . when you get the old seal out, save it for now. I’d like to use the old seal, such as fork seals, I use the old seal when tapping in the new one.. I will start the new seal after greasing it, lots of grease on that inner contact area of the seal after I have thoroughly cleaned the shaft and the case the outer part of the seal sits in.. then take the clean old seal and rest it against the new seal and let the old seal go through the trauma of being the driver by using a socket that is slightly smaller in the engine case, but fits over the shift shaft to drive the new seal in.. I like to put a scratch on the outside surface of the shift shaft to show where the gap in the shift linkage sits on the shaft, so when I reinstall the shift linkage onto the shaft, I have the splines exactly the same position they were in. This is actually very important. Do you have the linkage all at the same angles it was originally. Do you want 90° and all your angles of the linkage. If you don’t have the angles, correct, sometimes the motorcycle will not even shift. The old Honda 350 twins were famous for not shifting when people would take off the linkage to move their shifter up or down, and then the bike wouldn’t shift at all. changing shift shaft seals is not very difficult. The toughest part is getting the old seal out. You may have to make a tool or two , I like to make tools like that out of cheap screwdrivers, you get out at dollar store. Little skinny screwdrivers are going to bend easily, you can buy a set of 4 small pics at Harbor freight, they may make the job easier. They’re usually $.99 for the pics. I am thinking of. They look like small screwdrivers, but one is straight, one is slightly bent, One is bent at a 90° angle, and one is bent into is the shape of a hook.. they come for an a pack, and they have a little handles on them like a small screwdriver. Take your time, it’s like scraping gaskets, it’s not hard, it just takes a while. please wear safety glasses, just because of the nature of you pulling something with a sharp object in your face is right there so you can see what you’re doing .. i’m sure there are probably many videos here on UA-cam showing how to remove/replace a shift shaft, seal..

I always get a very good explanation from you. Thanks for taking the time to write this out for me.

@@timrader9800 thanks tim. let me start off by saying when I dictate to my phone, it types. The word, BRAKES, this way, BREAKS. So I’m not gonna fix that by retyping those manually. i’m not a fan of linked brakes simply because there are times you never wanna touch the front brake. Such as, if you’re going downhill on a bunch of wet leaves or snow on your street bike, it’s OK if you’re back wheel, skids a bit, but you don’t want that front wheel locking up on something like wet leaves or wet grass or gravel or snow or you lose your steering as for ABS. I have experienced what they do not do when you need brakes. I have experimented with motorcycles with ABS to see what they are going to do when I just smashed the brakes on over a slippery surface. Here’s what happens. The computer sensors the wheel is trying to go at a different speed,(trying to lock up) and the computer shuts down the brake pressure to that brake caliper on that wheel or both calipers if it’s the front wheel and the machine does not have linked brakes and abs.. that’s what it does, it doesn’t help your bike to slow down, it simply stops you from stopping.. I was on my BMW K 1200 LT, a 900 pound motorcycle going down a slight grade about a football field, long paved road, but it was covered with cinders that they spread on the road in the winter for traction. This was in ohio in the middle of nowhere, I was trying to find a campground friends were at. I started on that slope, I didn’t think anything of it because of the cinders, but I did try the brakes just to see how slippery it was when I was doing about. 35.. surprise, panic, huge, adrenaline rush, I could feel in my stomach, because I had no breaks at all, the computer sensed the wheel was going to slow down, possibly lock on the slippery surface, so the computer completely shut down all breaking pressure to the calipers, front and rear. I tried pumping the brakes, I was standing on the brake pedal . I tried pumping the brake pedal, I tried pumping the brake lever, nothing worked, I had time to consider my options. I thought, should I bail out, should I aim for something cheap like a tree, I’m not gonna be able to make that corner at the bottom of this hill because it’s 90° to the right, I even considered. shutting off the key and dragging my feet. I was lucky. There was an auto salvage yard at the bottom of the hill, surrounded by a cycling wire fence. It was only about 10 feet through the grass at the bottom of the hill. I ran into the fence, only breaking my front fender. When I put the bike into reverse to back out of the fence, I had brakes again. I sold that bike two weeks later after my new fender came in. I was lucky that road didn’t empty out onto a four-lane busy highway, or, what if there was a school with a children’s crosswalk? Full of kids at the bottom of that hill?. I got rid of that BMW and I bought a moto guzzi Norge, GT 1200 with abs but with a difference, there was a big button on top of the left fairing panel below the clutch lever with the letters ABS on the button. Pressing that button shut off the ABS system so I would have conventional brakes. They understood that at moto guzzi, but not at BMW, and I have never heard of a system that you can shut off the ABS on a motorcycle from Japan yet. There may be one, but I never heard of it. One of the magazines brought up this issue when suzuki was going to release their V Strom, 1000 with abs.. I had a V Strom, 1000 at that time that did not have ABS so I was interested. The magazine article pointed out, that you could be riding off road on that dual sport that has ABS that could not be turned off, and you could get killed if you are on a trail or you get caught in the snow or mud, going downhill and the brakes all of a sudden quit working, the magazine article really brought that point to light.. I think that was around 2008 and I believe it was motorcyclist magazine that pointed that out, of course they no longer have any of those magazines that you get in the mail anymore, but I do have that magazine because I have saved all my motorcycle magazines. I had subscriptions to since the early 1970s anyway, that’s how I feel about ABS brakes. I think they are dangerous and actually life-threatening, especially on a motorcycle, because that front wheel is the one that’s gonna save your life. I’ve commuted on motorcycles for many decades, every couple years I would have a very close call. . once I got hit from behind while I was waiting at a stop sign, on my way to work, knocked me out of work for nine months with a separated, shoulder and other complications. Totaled the bike. I had all my gear on as usual. I will say that it was the most profitable paid nine month vacation of my life. I actually got bored. being at home that long and unable to ride or even drive my tractor to cut the grass.. so I have a bunch of experience, and I cannot think of a situation where ABS brakes is going to save you on a motorcycle, I can only think of situation‘s that are going to possibly get you killed having ABS on a motorcycle. I am closing in on 800,000 miles behind bars. Most of those miles were commuting in and out of Pittsburgh. It was actually a nice 26 mile round-trip on back roads until I got to within 2 miles of work, then I had to work my way through several neighborhoods around the football stadium along the river. not too bad, 14 stop signs and seven traffic lights.. it was always the best part of my day, the commute to, and from work, even if it was raining but I cannot even imagine a situation where ABS would have done me any good. I can’t imagine how shutting the brakes off is a benefit. It’s different on a car because you have three other wheels that have brakes when you have a situation that the ABS kicks in on a car or a truck where you have four wheels, but on a motorcycle, only the front wheel is gonna do you any good, and when a wheel sensor shuts the brakes on the front wheel, of you’re motorcycle-you could wake up dead

@@procarpiokalaskas I spotted these scissor lifts on a UA-cam video by a company that does very professionally done videos about gold wings and suspension upgrades on those gold wings. They had the goldwing on a table in a studio, they had the forks off, and they had one of these scissors lifts under the Goldwing, holding it up. That’s when I began the search. The one in that video was black, but it was exactly the same as my red one.. I would have paid $200 for this if that was the price.. very useful. I have other motorcycle lifts, I have that one that has two long flat surfaces that go under the bike and you lift the bike up from one side or the other. The problem with that one is, the bike is unstable on that, and you have to strap the bike down from 4 directions, And then the four tiedown straps are in the way. And the Jack mechanism being on one side or the other is in the way. I’ve only use mine twice. It is practically useless. I would trade it for a six pack. It wouldn’t even have to be cold.

@@Jodyrides Wish I knew about these decades ago, if they even made these that long ago. Always had rear and front fork stands that hook on the spools for my old bikes, 6Rs, R6 and GSXR 600. Do you think it would be fine if I kept my Venture on this lift for the winter? Won't have to raise it up for the tires to be off the ground, just keep the a little weight off the tires. How do you store you bikes in the winter? I was just planning on rolling the bike couple inches every now and then to avoid the flat spots on the tires

@@joshuathomas4934 aaaaahhhhhhh

@@pedroclaro7822 I just did a tire where update on the Kenda tire‘s I put on my Venture last month. I had 35,500 miles on it I think last month, but I’ve been out twice since then so I probably have close to 36,000 miles on it now…

@ not that many miles. Sounds like you have as many bikes as I wish I had lol

I had a Yamaha venture royale for 16 years. A 1986. There is a way do you completely free yourself from the onboard suspension air compressor system buy Progressive suspension brand, fork, springs, and shock spring.. I did that on mine and it made the bike feel 100 pounds lighter. It’s not difficult to change the fork springs, the shock is not that bad either since the 1200 ventures have a center stand.. I believe that Progressive suspension even advertises that when you switch to their springs, you don’t need air anymore and that is true.. The thing I would be concerned about with the 1200 Venture is second gear. They are known for failing in the 1983, 1984, 1985, 1200 cc ventures. And in the Yamaha 750 and 850 triples, and, the 1984 and 85 FG 1100.. none of them are a simple fix, you have to yank the engine and split the cases.. I would advise you to thoroughly test drive that machine in second gear to see if it hops out of gear. Here is how you test it. in second gear accelerate and let off the throttle quickly, then accelerate quickly let off the throttle quickly in second gear. If it jumps out of gear, pass on that one and get a 1986 or newer venture royale that has a 1300 cc engine, a revised second and fifth gear, a Vmax style diaphragm, clutch, and a upgraded updated water pump, as well as bumping the displacement up to 1300 cc.. The 1200s also have smaller saddlebags and trunk, and the saddlebags open like a suitcase instead of the Toploader type saddlebags that everyone likes.. there’s also a heat issue with the Honda, ST 1300. I took one for a test ride in 2021. Low mileage, fresh tires, Sargent seat, aftermarket, vented, windshield, color, matched trunk, quite a few useful goodies on the machine. I went out for a ride. I told the guy I would not be back for at least an hour. He said fine. 10 minutes into the ride my legs could feel the heat coming off of the engine/radiator on that 85° day. The heat was a factor. I turned around and headed back. I got back about 25 minutes later. The guy said “that was a quick hour “. My first words were “how can you ride this oven??”. He knew instantly that the deal was over and said “that’s why it’s for sale some people can tolerate heat, coming off of the engine and rad.. I can’t. I like to go riding all day. A short ride to me is four hours. So my engine gets up to full temperature and stays there. I will not sit there and get roasted. So I didn’t buy that bike. I bought my current Yamaha royal star venture instead… As far as these NT 650 and 700s go, I have not felt any heat at all coming off of the engine or radiator. The seat is excellent. The bike is pretty simple to do maintenance and work on.. handling isn’t nervous quick, and it’s not truck slow, it’s stable.. I’ve done a lot of reading and riders in the UK and Europe and Australia can’t say enough good about these machines. They apparently do not have a common failure issue with any one component. But they have had water pump leak problems on some bikes, and sooner or later, the spark plug caps. They make the bike hesitate occasionally, and Stall.. it’s a cheap fix under $25, and while you’re in there you might as well throw new spark plugs in and use dielectric grease on the spark plug wires to keep them from drying out and cracking creating more voltage leak.. I don’t like to advise people on which motorcycles to buy, but I will advise people on motorcycles That have known issues, and that’s the 1200 CC ventures because of 2nd gear.. and the ST 1300 because it is an oven on wheels like the Kawasaki 1400 sport bike, and the early FJR 1300 Yamaha‘s. It’s not so much the bike design as much as displacement and horsepower equals heat. Machine I would recommend in the same class as the NT 700, is the Honda pacific coast. I owned one for 29 years, I commuted on that machine for 24 years until I retired. I never even burned out a lightbulb on that bike, and I rode that thing six days a week. I’d be one of those guys you would see riding to work in moderate rain. And I always worked Saturdays half day which was voluntary. Because I had kids in college… The Pacific coast is 800 cc, shaft drive, V-twin, water, cooled, to spark plugs per cylinder, instead of one. carburetors which I never had one single issue with. I don’t know why the NT 700 does not like speeds above 75 miles an hour on the interstate. The engine just starts telling you it’s not happy. But the Honda Pacific Coast I believe would cruise at 95 miles an hour all day. I never did that for long periods of time, but that motor was always happy. The only negative about the Honda pacific coast is there are only two companies that make that exact size tire in sets, Dunlop and Metzler. Someone might say that it’s a disadvantage to have carburetors, one thing about carburetors, you can bump start a motorcycle that has a dead battery with carburetors, and it will start, you ain’t gonna start your fuel injected motorcycle with a low battery. You need 12 V to power the computer, fuel pump, and fuel injectors. Carburetors will always get you home. And even though the Honda pacific coast only has 48 hp, and the NT 700 has a claimed 71 hp. I believe that they both feel like they have around. 60 hp. I was never in a situation where I needed more power on my Pacific coast. It has bigger bags, they are much easier to open and close then on the NT 700. You just popped the latch and opened it up, and it’s a lid that uncovers both saddlebags. The faring is better, especially in the rain, the seat is too soft. Pick up a Honda pacific coast seat made by Corbin… That is the second best thing I ever had. The best one was on my BMW K 1200 LT. Both of them are curiously shaped like a thin horse saddle. Seats with thick, deep padding end up pinching after a few hours, you end up, standing up, and you need to stop more often if the seat is too soft...

⁠@@denvermullins9224 it’s funny you would say that. I got my general approach to riding from Marlon Brando when he played the character named Johnny strabler in the movie that ruined the image of motorcyclists forever, called, the wild one.. in that movie, Johnny was trying to make time with the niece of the bar owner that his gang was hanging out in that small town in the middle of nowhere .. The girl was making small talk with Johnny when she asked him where he and his friends go riding on their motorcycles. She asked if they go on picnics or what? Johnny looked at her and said “we just go “ that has been my approach ever since I saw that, just go!! No plans, no schedule, just go

@@mars4508 thanks, I know they’re not high quality videos like just about everybody can do on UA-cam. But I like them. Call me when there’s a few people out there that also like them… no music, I don’t beg for clicks or subscribers, I don’t even appear in my videos. It’s not about me. I’m just sharing my rides , and I like watching them on my big screen TV after I put them on UA-cam.. Especially over the long, long winters

@@Jodyrides I do the same thing. Thanks

when you pull your spark plugs, make sure they are all the same color. If one of them is darker than the others, have a look at that carburetor. Maybe the float needs to be adjusted. Maybe the float needle and seat need to be replaced on that carburetor. Dark spark plug means it’s Rich on fuel. where are you live has a lot to do with it, do you live in Ohio altitude like maybe somewhere in Colorado? There is less air in the air. The higher you go. So if your jetting is giving it the same amount of gas on every stroke, and you’re getting less air, then you are rich on your jetting. The problem there is, you have to jet for the lowest altitude you will be at. , That would be sea level. Because when you get to sea level, there is more air in the air on every stroke, and you don’t want to be lean on your jetting at sea level. you could have dirty air filters. I have a video showing the intake track from after the air cleaner in when I first got my Venture. The title of that video that I put on around 2021 or 2022 when I first got the machine says major flaw in the title.. I was blaming all of that dirt stuck to the walls of my intake track on poorly fitting clamps around the air cleaner housing. It was actually the K and N area filters that came with the bike when I bought it. I watched some test videos on UA-cam, those things are almost like not having any filters. Sure they have high airflow, at the expense of lots of dirt going right through. I took those KNM filters out of my machine and I threw them right in the garbage and put the stocking paper air filters in that I bought on eBay, actually, I bought a hiflo brand air filters. They were about 40% cheaper than OEM Yamaha filters, and they are actually a filter company. I think they are in England and they get good write ups on their comparisons. I also use high flow oil filters because they come not only already greased on the sealing gasket, but it comes with a plastic covering to protect the filter from dirt during shipping, and it comes in a box also.. I believe the hiflo Oil filter number is, HF303.. i’ve noticed that ebay has a policy of listing the highest priced items first lately. You will see the soil filters listed for a selling price of something like $18 each, but if you scroll through the listings, when you get about two pages and you’ll see them for under nine dollars each with free shipping. Sneaky. Your choke on your carburetors is not actually an air choke. It is for pistons at the end of those brass rods that lift out of the carburetors when you pull on the choke knob.. when you push that down after your bike has started and warmed up for about a minute. Those rods are supposed to go in and block off the tube that goes down into the float bowl. Those rods have rubber plungers. Let’s call them on the end. If they are not ceiling against the hole. They are supposed to seal against, that will suck extra gas every stroke. When you pull that choke Rod out. You are actually opening for holes that allow the vacuum to suck extra fuel up out of the float bowls.. You will be able to tell if that is what is happening by doing a spark plug reading. See if one or two of the plugs is dark compared to the other ones. I would also put new spark plugs in while I was at it. NGK, part number DPR8 EA-9.. that’s the old part number, they came up with a new part number, but they will be able to find them using that part number at any motorcycle shop, or at advance auto parts stores. They won’t have them in stock, but they will have them for you tomorrow… don’t buy your spark plugs on eBay, if there’s a lot of counterfeit, NGK spark plugs on there other things like low tire pressure can eat some extra gas.. if your carburetors are not synchronized, that could eat some gas. When you had your carburetors off, did you look at your intake manifolds to see if they had any cracks in them because they are rubber. I coat mine with silicone, dielectric grease, I also cut my spark plug wires from the coils all the way down to the spark, plug caps with silicone dielectric grease to waterproof them and to keep them from being dried out from that hostile environment they work in. that also waterproofs the wires.. if you’re doing a lot of stop, sign to stop sign in town driving, that will lower your gas mileage also.. does your bike run OK? These are CV carburetors, constant, velocity, carburetors they have vacuum diaphragms under those domes on the carburetors. They are sort of like speaker cones. When you turn the throttle, you’re making vacuum. That causes the vacuum diaphragm to raise the slide and the metering needle/ pin.. when you had the carburetors apart, under those domes over the vacuum diaphragm, there are small O-rings about 3/16 of an inch. Very small and very easy to overlook or miss when taking a carburetor apart. I don’t know what you used to clean the carburetors, but I have heard that using spray carburetor cleaner can damage the vacuum diaphragms. That’s because carburetor cleaner is an acid, not a solvent like brake clean. So you have to remove those diaphragms before you go spraying those passages out on your carburetors.. don’t use champion, spark plugs ever and anything you ever own. They do not recover to 100% after the first couple heat cycles. Nobody knows why, but ask any professional mechanic and they will know about this. It’s OK to use ND or NGK spark plugs.. it’s tough to diagnose them over the phone or by texting. I wish I could see it, you can see a lot just by looking.

@@jamesstastny1923 I forgot to ask you what altitude you live at. The higher you go in elevation, the lower, the gas, mileage, and the lower their performance. Formula One cars lose about 10% of their power when they race in Mexico City which is above 7000 feet. There’s less air in the air, the higher you go… Formula One cars also lose downforce from their wings because the air is thinner and they have less downforce

@@JodyridesHey Jody I appreciate your Venture content I’ve watched them all. I love on the ND/MN border. So very flat and low elevation. I think one of my issues is the boot below the carb. When I put a sync on them the third cylinder wouldn’t sync and all I could think of was that I had an air leak on that cylinder.

@@jamesstastny1923 leaky intake, manifold?? A temporary fix would be to dab some silicone caulk on it until you have time to replace it. If one is bad, I would replace all four. I keep my electric leads from the coils to the spark, plug caps and the spark, plug caps coated with silicone dielectric grease to keep them from drying out and cracking. I do the same with rubber intake manifolds anytime i am working in there and have access.. to double check for a vacuum leak, you could use a propane torch, the kind you would use to solder your plumbing fittings. Just turn the gas on without a flame, and hold the torch near the suspected area. Were you think there may be a vacuum leak, when the engine sucks in the propane, it will change the idle to verify if that is leaking or not…

@@Jodyridesthanks Jody. That’s all I can think of since that one cylinder wouldn’t synch. It just doesn’t change when I make adjustments. The other three do. If I switch it to another gauge I get the same reading. Al I could think of was an air leak???

@@altec19 i’ve had three ventures, all three of them get around 45 to 48 miles to the gallon. I use regular gas and everything. High test gas does not make more power. High test, gas only prevent you from losing power. If you have a car or a motorcycle that is prone to preignition or detonation. That’s all high test gas does.. it prevents you from losing power, it does not make more power.. those big engine old cars like Cadillacs and big Buicks that had 450 in.³ engines and high compression, those are the cars that needed high test gas which is gassed it is not as explosive. It’s actually partially dead gas that is not prone to exploding before it’s time. regular gas makes more power, it runs hotter, and that’s the whole idea of burning gas, you want to convert the gasoline into heat which converts into mechanical energy. And regular gas has more energy than partially dead high test gas. They used to put lead in gas to keep the combustion chamber under control in High compression engines of the 50s and 60s and 70s before they had things like knock sensors, and fuel injection, and variable valve timing and ignition systems that gave you the spark exactly when you needed it, unlike the old cars that gave you the spark about when you needed it, roughly.. Just buy your gas from a big oil company, new modern gas station that does a lot of business. That will ensure that you get fresh gas that has not absorb water through the breeders because of the ethanol and gasoline, which is alcohol based and absorbs water right out of the air .. I always tell people to use motorcycle oil only. It’s a modern miracle that the transmissions of Japanese motorcycles since the mid-60s have been able to lubricate the engine and the transmission using the same oil. Transmissions are murder on oil .. no car engine puts as much abuse on oil as a Japanese motorcycle that uses the same oil for the gearbox, peering a situation called shearing takes place. That is the oil being smashed by the mesh of the gears, it keeps smashing the molecules of the oil and cutting them in half over and over and over, and you can feel when your oil is sheared to death. Because it becomes difficult to shift and difficult to find neutral.. that’s when you know the oil needs changed. Motorcycle oriole has additional additives of zinc and phosphorus, which gives the oil a higher film strength to resist shearing.. and one other little thing, never use champion, spark plugs. And don’t buy your NGK spark plugs on eBay. They will probably be counterfeit. Buy your spark plugs at your Yamaha dealer, or a Honda dealer, hopefully they will not be counterfeit… or you can buy them at advance auto parts stores. They stock, NGK spark plugs. Just buy the regular spark plugs, fancy-schmancy, spark plugs, cannot create more voltage. You can only increase voltage by changing the coils. make sure you have a spare key hidden somewhere on your bike, my Venture has seven locks that I would have to replace if I lost my keys. My 1986 Venture had 11 locksets. I would have to replace if I lost the keys to that. I buy my motorcycle oil on eBay by the gallon. I will buy Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, suzuki oil, and I just buy the regular oil. You can find it on eBay for about $30 a gallon free shipping if you buy 2 gallons at once, which is what I do.. The Honda and Yamaha and Kawasaki and suzuki shops are not going to sell oil that will not work in their engines because they will have to do warranty repairs if they put a bad product out there. That’s why I stick with the Japanese manufactured approved oil blends. these ventures are pretty bulletproof. They’re a little dated, but that does not mean you can abuse them, or neglect them ..but I’ve had other top of the line big cruisers like a Goldwing GL 1800 I had a BMWs most expensive K 1200 LT. didn’t like either one of those machines as much as a Venture .I kept going back to a venture. that’s the reason I have had three of them. I like the ease of maintenance, and the roominess and comfort of the Venture. They used this engine from 1983 all the way up until 2020 in the Vmax. same basic engine ..but I’ve never heard of a common problem with these engines. Motorcycles, cars, houses, don’t wear out as much as they are neglected to death.. I have quite a few maintenance videos about the Venture on my channel when I started making these types of videos back in 2021 or 2022. I’m not very good at making videos, but people seem to like them anyway… Sorry for the typos. I thought I turned off the spellchecker system in my iPhone, but apparently not,

@@JodyridesThanks for all the info ! And thanks for your maintenance videos especially the one on synchronizing your carbs that one was very helpful !

I love route 50 across west virginia into maryland.. i love route 33..and route 250,... route 50 goes from the east coast to the west coast california.. i have checked maps of that route i would love to do that,but --- i am satisfied just doing rides of anywhere from 50 miles to 200 miles of mostly secondary roads, two land blacktops and sleeping in my own bed at home every night.. i dont crave to ride far and long rides.. i had a small groups of guys that wanted to go for a ride with me into west virginia,to davis WVA blackwater falls area then north into pennsylvania where we got a little lost and back in one day.. the way we went ended up being almost 600 miles of a lot of backroads that day... not only were all those guys pissed at me, but they never asked if they could tag along with me again.. we started out at 8am and didnt get back to pittsburgh until after midnight that day..that was a long day... i am always finding enough new roads here within 150 miles to suit me.. west virginia , maryland, western new york and ohio have enough to keep me entertained.. as close as it is, i still have not been to the pennsylvania grand canyon or niagara falls.. i want to get to clearfield pa , the home ..the largest hamburger in the world .. i will ride for food i also need to get into ohio where they have a cult following of something called skyline chili i think it is called.. that make spaghetti ,top it off with chilli and cheese..gotta try that.. baltimore maryland is around an 8 hr round trip away. leave at 7am get there for lunch, get home before dinnertime.. i would love to do some blue crabs and clam chowder at the inner harbor..i especially like a relaxing ride home after a good meal at a good restaurant.. that always makes the ride home seem shorter than the ride to get there was.. i'm getting hungry just thinking about it.. the most technical road i ever been on is in west virginia. route 88 in the pan handle near washington pa.. to wheeling.. i took sportbike riding buddies there to show them that jewel.. i stopped them at the north entrance to that road and warned them not to pass me... both times someone crashed in spite of my trying to control the pace.. nobody got hurt bad, but i did see an FJ1200 doing summersaults in mid air that day.. i did warn him just 10 minutes before that.. the most technical road i know of is in west virginia.. the best section of route 50 is also in west va west of cumberland md.. so -- yes-- i have ridden in w va... its been a while.. the last time i was on route 50 , was a 17th yr of the cicada hatching. it was something to hear them all flapping their wings making that droning sound.. i could actually hear them over my moto guzzi and my earplugs that day...