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Great question, and also a tough one as there is no single perfect answer. It truly depends on water depth your working in. The B175HW is great for up to 500' depth the B175L is good for the deeper waters up to 2000' in depth. Where as the PS 70 is good for up to 1000' depth. Then you also have to consider the frequency ranges. The PS 70 works in a smaller frequency range of 190 - 210 where as the 175L is 40 - 60kHz and the 175HW is in the 150 - 250 range. So as the old saying goes it courses for horses, some the PS 70 will be amazing on traditional while others will prefer to view of the B 175HW

Thanks for the kind words, pleasure to meet you as well

We would have to know a little more about the system and how it was installed if they used a network connection or analog style, also what system it is going into before we could offer any advice also would need to confirm which model FLIR you have did you mean a 232 or 332 possibly?

while the M232 is a good camera for what it is designed for, it is truly no comparison to the M300 camera.

Alas there is no easy way to do this on a 943 as it does not have an HDMI input. There are certainly some workarounds that could be possible, however none that we would recommend at this time

The biggest take away from our first hand use is the faster speeds of the unit, the improved and updated charting. This is what most people are noticing right away. Behind the scenes the ability to plug cables directly into the unit instead of the pig tail is a nice touch. As is the front mounting face for the displays.

For best results you will want to mount this with a clear view of the sky (usually on a hard top) if you are looking for a better solution for heading, then you will want to look at something like the Garmin MSC -10 Sat compass

Kevin, once you do this software update, and as long as you have the ethernet connection into your stereo all future updates should be via the active captain app!

this is interesting as we have not seen this yet but will be sure to keep an eye out for it

No at this time Garmin uses the Active Captain app as the access point / connection for connectivity and updates.

My first question is where are you installing this onboard that you are seeing constant temps in that range? I would like to add some ventilation into that space for sure. It is become more and more common on some of our bigger installed to add in a simple thermostatically controlled DC fan to keep the air flow moving to keep temps down.

​@@navtronicsmarinegroup I don't have it installed yet. It just seems possible that an boat center console made of aluminum could reach that temperature in direct sunlight. I will definitely look at properly ventilating the console. I like the idea of a thermostatically controlled fan. The boat is currently being built (18' bay style fishing boat).Thanks for getting back with me so fast.

As far as we are aware this is still the most current way to test your VHF. Of course your mileage may vary depending on where your located

All in what some people want. Some prefer the lean into the curves others prefer the flat ride, and seakeeper ride gives them that options.

At this time I am not aware of anything. Seeing as it requires N2K and Ethernet I would guess it would not be an easy task to make happen. Add into the mix that Empirbus is now a fully owned Garmin company and it makes it seem to be even less likely at this time

Not at this time. Hopefully by late fall.

@@navtronicsmarinegroup Thanks a lot for your prompt response, I hope too. Anyway, very detailed video.

correct, you will be able to create your own bathe charts . for best results you will want to use a DFF3D sonar module and some type of AHRS senor, usually a sat compass

If these instruments need data and power I would use separate cables for them. Make the connection up there as good as you can if possible by using soldering and shrink tubing for insulation. You don't want to go up there every week for fixing them. Provide strain relief for the cables. You dont want 60 feet of cable pulling on the connections. Don't use single strand solid cable. Below deck preferebly in a watertight box you can add a cut NMEA cable long enough to go to straight to your display or NMEA backbone. Wireless instruments exist. They aren't cheap.

as long as you do at least software version 35.1 than yes you can

@@navtronicsmarinegroup thank you,i read that you may need to install an external card reader on the 10"

@@seanfoley9055 I have not heard anything to that sort, but full disclosure we don't often work with the 10" display

The unit comes with a blank SD card in place for you to use as an active captain card. However most people select to put in a larger size card than what the unit came with.

@@navtronicsmarinegroup Thank you so much, now I know!

Great question and one that we get asked often - per ABYC standards, we run wire for the install based on the load (i.e. how much power is this item going to draw) So lets say we have a Bilge pump that has a nominal amp draw of 12 amps. And lets say the wire run from the battery to the pump is 5'. We have to measure the round trip of that so that's 10'. We use ABYC standards for amp draw and circuit length that tells us we should have a 14 gauge wire. I say all of that to get to this point - if this bilge pump ends up with a rotor lock (pump is trying to run but can spin due to something stuck in the pump) the amp draw will ramp up. Because the amp draw ramp up if there was no fuse we would quickly be drawing more amperage than the wire is capable of handling. This would create heat and eventually let the smoke out of the wire and potentially start a fire. Now if we put a fuse near the battery (source of power) and have this same scenario as soon as that rotor lock event happens and the amps spike the fuse will blow and the wire will be saved as designed. Conversely if you put in a 30 amp fuse into this scenario, it would take longer to blow (or possibly not blow at all) in the mean time the wire will heat up from the increased amperage that is above what it is designed to handle. Again worse case scenario here is letting out the smoke and a fire starting all while not tripping the fuse because it was over sized and it didn't reach its max amp limit to blow. Hopefully you have made it this far in the response and that answered your question!

@@navtronicsmarinegroup haha. Yes I made it that far. Not to long at all when it’s a great explanation (that did need some backup as well). Thanks and have a great weekend.

Hello, so the short answer is we are a partner with Sabre from the Technology part of things. The longer version - All Sabre models come equipped with Volvo Penta Glass Bridge displays. On most models, Sabre does not offer any further electronics/navigation so the client then has the option to choose us to do the additional up fitting for items like Radar, Sounders, cameras, etc. This allows for the build to be custom tailored to exactly what the end user wants and not be forced into purchasing additional items they may not want. Even if the customer does not choose to have Navtronics do the electronics install, there is an option on all Sabres to have it pre-wired for navigation with runs of network and NMEA cables pre run through the boat