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The Haberdasher Bee
United Kingdom
Приєднався 22 жов 2020
Learn a new skill, make something alongside one of my videos, check out my mistakes and see how I correct them (so you don't make the same ones). That's the overall goal here; helping each other to learn and develop our skills in sewing, crochet, knitting and natural dyeing.
My name is Leanne and I run The Haberdasher Bee, a sustainable haberdashery shop in the UK which sells carefully sourced and manufactured tools and supplies for sewing, knitting and crochet.
New videos are posted every month or so. I produce videos on a range of themes, from make-alongs to how-tos on using your haberdashery tools and new to the channel will be some more technical videos looking at digital pattern cutting.
How To: Sewing Flat Felled Inseams On Trousers
Making a pair of trousers or jeans and want to give them strong seams? Flat felling your seams is a great technique to do this. In this video, I show you how to flat fell your inseams, when you've already sewn your side seams. It's a little tricky and slow to do, but with a little patience and time it's a great way to give your trousers a professional looking and strong inseam.
Want to make the pattern I'm making in the video? Get your copy of the Jutland Pants pattern by Thread Theory here: threadtheory.ca/collections/pdf-sewing-patterns/products/jutland-pants-pdf
Want to learn more about different seam finishes? Get your free copy of The Little Book of Seam Finishes by In The Folds here: shop.inthefolds.com/pages/subscribe
Check out my shop here: haberdasherbee.co.uk/shop
*NOTE: I've not been sponsored by Thread Theory or In The Folds; I am making the Jutland Pants of my own choice and the e-book by In The Folds is in my opinion just a great way to learn different seam finishes. You do need to subscribe to their newsletter to receive it, but I promise you it's very helpful and totally worth it*
Want to make the pattern I'm making in the video? Get your copy of the Jutland Pants pattern by Thread Theory here: threadtheory.ca/collections/pdf-sewing-patterns/products/jutland-pants-pdf
Want to learn more about different seam finishes? Get your free copy of The Little Book of Seam Finishes by In The Folds here: shop.inthefolds.com/pages/subscribe
Check out my shop here: haberdasherbee.co.uk/shop
*NOTE: I've not been sponsored by Thread Theory or In The Folds; I am making the Jutland Pants of my own choice and the e-book by In The Folds is in my opinion just a great way to learn different seam finishes. You do need to subscribe to their newsletter to receive it, but I promise you it's very helpful and totally worth it*
Переглядів: 11 328
Відео
Why Paper Scissors Should Be Your Next Crafting Purchase
Переглядів 2863 роки тому
Fed up of your fabric shears getting pinched to be used for cutting paper? Or perhaps wondering what to use to cut out your pattern pieces? Paper scissors are an underrated tool which could be the answer. Want a pair of paper scissors for your craft space? Get them here: haberdasherbee.co.uk/shop/7-Paper-Scissors-p250545115 *NOTE: I've not been sponsored by William Whiteley and Sons, nor have S...
Tea House Dress - Make Along
Переглядів 2,3 тис.3 роки тому
Make the Tea House Dress by Sew House Seven along with me! I love the easy and comfortable style of the Tea House Top and Dress (I've previously made the top, version A) and decided to make it in some gorgeous deadstock silk for the dress. *NOTE: I've not been sponsored by Sew House Seven to make this dress, I've chosen to make it for myself* Not got the pattern? Get your copy here: sewhouse7.c...
Iris T-shirt - Make Along
Переглядів 1573 роки тому
Make the Iris t-shirt by Forget-Me-Not Patterns along with me! This might be a "beginner" pattern, but it does look lovely when finished - and it's a quick make that you could do in an evening! *NOTE: I've not been sponsored by Forget-Me-Not Patterns to make this t-shirt, I've chosen to make it for myself* Not got the pattern? Get your copy here: forgetmenotpatterns.com/collections/tops/product...
Using Buttonhole Scissors
Переглядів 21 тис.3 роки тому
Do you regularly make buttonholes and want an easier, safer way to open them? If so, then buttonhole scissors might be what you're looking for. Check out how to use them to repeatedly and accurately open buttonholes every single time. Buy your buttonhole scissors from my shop : haberdasherbee.co.uk/shop/Buttonhole-Scissors-p250538159 Not making many buttonholes? Learn how to use your trusty sea...
Causeway Bomber Jacket - Make Along
Переглядів 4813 роки тому
Make the Causeway bomber jacket by Itch to Stitch along with me! While this is an advanced pattern, if you take things one step at a time, you'll end up with a pretty awesome jacket that you'll love wearing. *NOTE: I've not been sponsored by Itch to Stitch to make this jacket, I've chosen to make it for myself* Not got the pattern? Get your copy here: itch-to-stitch.com/product/causeway-bomber-...
How To Open Buttonholes With A Seam Ripper
Переглядів 1,3 тис.3 роки тому
Learning to make buttonholes for the first time and wondering how to open them? Perhaps you're looking for a better method of opening your buttonholes? Check out how to use your trusty seam ripper to open buttonholes safely. Like the seam ripper you see here? Find them in my shop: haberdasherbee.co.uk/shop/Seam-Ripper-p214428116
Brumby Skirt - Make Along
Переглядів 9973 роки тому
Make the Brumby skirt by Megan Nielsen Patterns along with me! This skirt is a reasonably straightforward sew and looks great when its finished - I'm looking forward to wearing mine as the weather improves. *NOTE: I've not been sponsored by Megan Nielsen to make this skirt, I've chosen to make it for myself* Not got the pattern? Get your copy here: megannielsen.com/collections/sewing-patterns/p...
Reef Pyjamas Make Along - Pyjamas For PanCan
Переглядів 4823 роки тому
Make the Reef Pyjamas by Megan Nielsen Patterns along with me! I'm raffling this exact set off to raise funds for Pancreatic Cancer Action - I'm not sponsored by Megan Nielsen, but I do have her permission to raffle these pjs off as a fundraising activity. *NOTE: Never sell or raffle off items made from home sewing patterns without checking the terms of the pattern and seeking permission from t...
Using Affinity Designer To Create Sewing Patterns - Digital Pattern Cutting
Переглядів 13 тис.3 роки тому
If you want to make digital sewing patterns using Affinity Designer, but don't know how to set up your workspace or which tools to use, this video is for you. UPDATE: While using the print templates, you can nest all of the template artboards into a bigger artboard. This lets you arrange your designs without parenting them to any of your template pages. However, when you are ready to export, yo...
Travelling Vines Gloves - Make Along
Переглядів 5293 роки тому
Make the Travelling Vines Gloves along with me! These fingerless gloves are worked in the round and are super cosy, since they extend quite far up your hands and over your wrists. You'll need the pattern to make these along with me, the link to which is below. *NOTE: I've not been sponsored by We Crochet, the yarn company Malabrigo or the pattern designer to make this video, I chose to make the...
What type of presser foot do you recommend?
very very specific topic, i like it
The Affinity Suite is amazing. Thank you for the pattern making tutorial
Thank you this was awesome! I spent countless hours trying to create seamallowence brushes and a cutting table. !!
I just found the seam allowances to and got super excited..
I will try that pattern and your seam techniques on my mums singer 15, i think itts a centennial, so she was probably 21 years old when she bought it in England... I like to keep it more traditional in the sewing machines...however the free arm on modern machines does make it easier to do im sure!
Great Jb Thank you!
Hola! Muchas gracias por tu tutorial. ¿Eres británica? Saludos desde Argentina.
Thank you much for your totally awesome tutorial . You’re a brilliant teacher . I’ve watched so many other videos on AD but no one else shows the setting up . I need to understand . I’d created such a mess in AD and now I’m sorted. The seam allowances are genius. Thank you.
Actually it was impossible to tell what was being done near end. I need to know what to do about the inseam flat felled seam from knees down when converting from flared to straight. Thanks.
I'm sorry you didn't find it useful, however I only have one camera and could not provide a second angle. This was a last minute video based on an 'a-ha' moment I had while sewing myself. In terms of sewing a flare, it doesn't change how you would sew the seam - you need to be sewing completely straight and if anything the additional fabric of the flare would help you when you get lower down the leg, as the leg tends to curl up inside itself and turn inside out as you sew (which is why it's difficult to see what I'm doing towards the end).
Gorgeous, stunning, amazing and loads more superlatives
Thank you! I do very much enjoy wearing this dress, though it's a special occasion only type one because of it being silk
Thank you for posting this! It was so helpful to see it come together, and your jacket is gorgeous!! 😍 In case you haven’t already seen it, this also-wonderful tutorial shows how to do the cuff step: ua-cam.com/video/KkT9gHAKafg/v-deo.htmlsi=ul9JlmKkrfu8ogtK
Thank you! I have since worked out how to do the cuff step on a different project, but I will definitely take a look at the tutorial to make sure I'm doing it correctly :)
What thread are you using for these pants? I have used top stitching thread but my machine struggles with the thick thread. Your thread looks like a smaller weight or all purpose thread?
I was using all purpose rPET Guternmann thread to make these jeans and haven't had any issue with the seams at all. If topstitching thread is too thick then I'd definitely recommend trying an all purpose thread through your machine. It might also be an issue with your tension dials sticking so could be worth having your machine serviced
Absolutely top video. Thanks. I was looking to buy illustrator but you've convinced me that Affinity designer is the way. And the seam allowance brushes....wow! Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
MOSTLY these are for hand-sewn button holes, you set the cut at 3mm more than your button length, you place them over the edge and cut at 90deg to the edge and you will get X number of identical length button holes spaced correctly from the edge. As you only want to cut one buttonhole at a time as you sew, it can be tricky to get the next one the exact same length. Trust me - I make hand-sewn buttonholes and I DONT have them
Thanks so much for making this video. I was so confused about the sleeve cuffs and you madenit crystal clear!
The pattern has a "set up round" for the vines. Do i just ignore that?! Why is tjay bit in there. The pattern never twlls you to use it.
The set up round is like a foundation for the pattern, so don't skip it. (I think that's the round where I went in the wrong direction in the video.) You need the foundation round in order to get the correct stitches for anchoring the vines stitch pattern. Anytime you see a setup round or a foundation round, always do it, even if the pattern only starts the numbered rows with the stitch pattern. Otherwise the stitch pattern won't have anything to anchor into. Pattern designers often only start numbering the rows when the stitch pattern starts, even if there are foundation rows or other rows which need to be worked. Does that make more sense?
Thank you,,,,,,,I was given a pair of these scissors , had no idea why they were different, now I know & it will make my sewing so much easier……
Hi Haberdasher Bee, I'm looking a ay to grade my patterns in Affinity. In Adobe you have the blend option which you can do in steps instead of overflowing. have you any idea how to do this? Thanks Katja
Hi Katja, in Affinity Designer V2, there is a way to grade - it's called Power Duplicate. In essence, you duplicate the original once, make your scaling changes and then duplicate the altered object. Affinity will apply the changes you made to the altered object each time you make a new duplicate. Hope that helps!
Are there any tools in the newer version that you use that aren’t shown in this video? Thanks
Yes, Affinity added lots of new tools into V2 which would be very helpful for creating sewing patterns. I do intend to do a video on this at some point, I simply haven't had the time so far. In short, the following new tools are useful - -The new knife tool will be very useful for slashing and spreading -The customisable background grids will certainly be useful for designing without constantly measuring (you could set them to be a 1cm or 1" grid like on pattern paper and make use of the markings as you might when drafting manually) -The area tool will be very useful for measuring the length of curves -There's finally an equivalent to Adobe's eyedropper in the Style Picker Tool -You can scale objects in a similar way to Adobe's blend tool, meaning you can now grade with relative ease - You can align objects to a key point or object, for example making sure all graded pattern pieces sit properly spaced from the centre of the piece or from an edge designed to be cut on the fold.
Extremely helpful and appreciated!!! Thank you SO much!! Looking forward to your future videos ;). I definitely understand how hard it is to juggle everything!!
@@TheHaberdasherBee thanks for this - I found it really helpful. You and @donnab445 might like to know that the contour tool is really useful as you can make seam allowances with different widths. This video explains the tool ua-cam.com/video/zpOm8AzTpW4/v-deo.html For a pattern create one layer with the sewing line only. Once complete, copy creating a second layer to use the the contour tool on - leaving it directly above the original. You can specify width based on your document settings - mine was set to inches. Make sure lines on both layers are aligned to same point: I chose aligning to outside of line so the outside of the line is the cutting line. Once every thing is right - bake the contour which switches you to node mode. You can then adjust nodes to adjust seam allowance for straight sections if desired. I haven't tried it on curves, but for curves or more complex things you can break the lines of the added contour where you need the width to change, so you can remove sections - so if you need a different seam allowance say for a hem or neckline, you could add additional layers copying from the sewing line layer, setting to a different seam allowance, then removing unwanted sections and making slight adjustments to seam allowance layers if needed. So long as you have all lines set to align to the same option, I've checked and the measuring tool indicates the width is consistent even on tight curves. I was drawing templates for drunkards path quilting. You have to label the curves so you know which is which, but that is good practice anyway.
This is great! Thanks for the tutorial! I’m going to order this pattern!
I will keep using my exacto knife
Thank you very much! Making my Teahouse dress today, and this is so helpful. I don’t have a serger, so I was struggling to figure what could/should be flat-felled or French seamed and when. And your finished product is beautiful-congratulations on having such a wonderful garment in your wardrobe!😊
Glad you found it helpful! And thank you 😊
جميل جدا شكرا للمشاركة❤
Glad you enjoyed it!
شكرا جزيلا لكي كنت ابحث منذ ساعات على هذه التقنية❤
You're welcome, I'm glad you find it useful!
I discovered something when using the Seam Allowance brushes. Unless you have a "closed curve" you can't set the alignment of the stroke to be the outside of the vector. I wasn't making my pattern shapes be closed curves so I couldn't apply the seam allowance brush properly until I figured this out by searching some forums. I hope this tip helps other people!
That's useful to know, thanks for posting about it!
Hello. Hope you will make more videos about digital patterns
Hi, I am planning to, though it's having chance to do so! I've learned a great deal about patternmaking (both manual and digital) since making this video so there's lots of video ideas...hopefully later this year I'll be able to start making more videos again.
This is very nice. I learned something new. I was wondering how that worked.
I'm glad you found it useful!
Man, I knew there had to be a way, but I just couldn't think of it on my own. Thanks for this!
Glad you found it useful!
Would be nice to have also a camera view a bit further away to see how you handle the pants.
Thanks for the feedback, though I only have the one camera at present and a small sewing area, so not much space to show any wider views. In the future I'd like to be able to do this with a two camera setup though. Essentially what happens to the trouser legs is that they slowly get turned inside out as you sew along the seam - it's best to sew slowly so that you have chance to move the tube of fabric out of the way of the needle.
My mother had singer buttonhole scissors, and she was not a tailor.
Not everyone who uses these scissors will necessarily be a tailor, though they are most commonly used by tailors and professional seamstresses. Many home sewists have never come across these scissors before, so perhaps your mother was lucky in being introduced to them - I hope she got lots of use from hers!
@@TheHaberdasherBee She was always making clothes for my sister. She saw them at a Singer sewing center and bought them..
I just reached the end of your blog post and about cried when I saw that you had created print templates for download. What a wonderful gift 🥹🥹🥹
So glad they're useful for you!
Thank you sooooo much you are a wonderful teacher.... and thank you for sharing your hard work. really appreciate it. take care.
You're very welcome, I'm glad you found it useful!
I’ve just paid a NZ $1 for a pair of these in a charity shop, so very sharp too
That's an amazing deal! Love using my little buttonholers :) I hope they become a favourite tool of yours too
Really useful information, most Affinity designer courses don’t have this sort of knowledge and I’ve only just started creating digital patterns, so I’m grateful! Not sure if this is covered elsewhere or I missed it in the video, but how do I use the seam allowance brushes when there are two or more sizes of allowance on a pattern piece? For instance a 1/4” at the collar and 5/8” for the rest?
I'm glad you found the video and the brushes useful! Because the pattern piece is one joined up item, referred to in Affinity as a curve, it will as standard only apply one seam allowance brush at a time. If you wanted to have different seam allowances on the same pattern piece, you would need to break the curve at both ends of the section where you want the different seam allowance to be - in your example, at either end of the neckline/collar curve. To do this, you'll need to select the pattern piece, use the node tool (the little white cursor) and look in the contextual tool bar at the top. You'll see an area marked "action" and the button to break curves is the first one in the section (see approx 18:53 in the video for the node contextual toolbar). Select the individual point where you want to break the curve and then hit the break curve button. Affinity will add the broken area into the layers panel on the right as a new curve, so you can then select that curve and use the other seam allowance brush. I don't know whether it will try and add the brush to both sides of a single line, however, so you might need to play around with it a little if it does. Hope that helps!
I have so enjoyed your sew along. Thank you, most helpful. Best wishes Sally
I'm very glad you found it helpful Sally! :)
I found an old pair , made in Italy in an old sewing basket I thrifted, tried them out, was amazed how slick they were I'm and am eager to teach my grandson, who wants to learn to sew, how they work for mens shirts.
Wow that's an amazing find. I'm sure your grandson will love using them too :)
Thank you. Great Video. Love the seam allowance brushes.
@Haberdasher Bee Affinity released V2 and it’s on sale. I didn’t get an email and loved this video so I know you use Affinity. Lots of new features. Wanted you to know
Yes, I saw - I'm just investigating the new features but it looks as though there's lots of added functionality for pattern cutting. May have to create a new video for V2...
@@TheHaberdasherBee that would be AWESOME! There are measuring tools and lots of new tools. I immediately upgraded and believe the value is absolutely there. I'm teaching myself to pattern and have my fingers crossed waiting to see if you update your tutorial. *BIG SMILE*
@@AlesiaDick I've got to admit that I'm pretty impressed with the new features list and I'm looking forward to trying them out. V2 could become the go-to pattern cutting software at an entry level price if it all works as intended... but yes, I think I will be making an updated video and accompanying blog post about it early in the new year (got lots on until then!)
@@TheHaberdasherBee I look forward to it!
Brilliant! Much thanks
You're welcome!
This was an amazing video. Thank you so much. I am a new Affinity Designer user and this video has helped me immensely. Thank you so much. I would love to down load the seam allowance tool but cannot see it. Could you help me where to find it please.
I'm glad you found the video helpful. If you go to the blog post linked in the video description, there's a button at the bottom of the page that says "download seam allowance"
Very good tutorial. I have this pattern , now I feel way more comfortable making it . 😊👍🏻
I'm glad you liked it - I hope you have fun making yours!
Found the video trying to find if someone had an easier way and it looks like it's just part of the pant struggle lol. Just a not instead of a flat felled seam. I find it less time-consuming to do a French seam, but I like the tube on the inside. I call it a French Canadian seem 😂 however if you want the tube on the outside just start the French seam with right sides together (instead of wring sides) and the finished tube will be on the outside. I just find the French seam easier because when you cut the seam allowance, you cut both sides instead of one side. Maybe it's just me but it does give you the same effect.
French seams are simply a different finish to flat felled seams, they both have their uses and applications. Flat felled seams are incredibly tough, plus they're great to use with heavier weight fabrics like denim, so they're commonly used on particularly hard-wearing garments like jeans. They're also more common on menswear than womenswear for some reason. If you didn't want to flat fell the side seams, you don't have to. You'll see a lot of cheaper commercially produced jeans sew the side seams right sides together and finish the raw edges, but they'll also put more rivets and bartacks in place to help strengthen the seams. I chose to follow the instructions in the pattern and sew flat felled seams on both the inseam and the side seam for these jeans - and to be honest I'm really glad I did. My husband wears them on a daily basis and never has an issue with them, he finds them very comfortable, whereas the jeans I made for myself which don't have flat felled seams have had multiple splits in both side seams that I've had to repair. The next pair of jeans that I make for myself will definitely have flat felled seams as a result.
@@TheHaberdasherBee oh the TT instructions I’ve seen give you directions for a foe flat felled not a true flat felled.
@@velovloger2553 On the Jutland pattern, it's definitely a true flat felled seam, though I don't doubt that some of their other patterns use a faux flat felled seam. I perhaps should have shown how to do the full seam so it's clearer that it's a true flat fell, but I'd already done one and ironed/pinned the other in place when I decided to make this video - maybe another time I'll do a series of how-to's on different seam finishes
@@TheHaberdasherBee on that pattern how much is the offset for the 5/8” allowance do you start with a 1/2” offset? Thinking about trying a true on my next pair.
@@velovloger2553 I've not got the pattern in front of me, but from memory it's a standard 5/8" seam allowance all around, there's no offset in one pattern piece's seam allowance compared to the other as it's intended to be cut out on the fold. Once you've sewn the pattern pieces together, you're directed to trim one edge down by I think about 1/4" and fold the longer edge over to meet it, before then pinning and sewing the neatened seam edge. Folding the longer edge over by such a small amount in heavy denim is tricky, so it takes some patience, but it's definitely doable. I might have made my seams slightly wider than usual as my husband is in between two sizes at the waist and hips, so I used a slightly bigger seam allowance to get a better fit for him.
Can you have different seam allowances for each seam if you need? Like a 1/2" seam allowance, but a 1" hem allowance?
You may be able to do this if you break the curve, so that the hem is a separate layer to the rest of the pattern. You can break curves when using the Node tool (white cursor arrow) - it's in the contextual toolbar at the top. Just click the nodal point you want to break the curve at before clicking the "break curve" button - and don't forget to do this to the other end of the hem as well. I haven't tried this though so I don't know how it will display the seam allowance.
What is the advantage of these shears over using an exacto knife blade?
Craft knives have surprisingly flimsy blades, so while it's possible to use them you'll struggle to cut through the layers of fabric and stabiliser. Using dedicated tools like buttonhole scissors is always the best option if you can, since they're designed for the job and so are the much faster, cleaner and safer option. If you don't have any buttonhole scissors, I'd suggest using a seam ripper as they're far safer than using a craft knife - I made another video on using a seam ripper to open buttonholes if you check my channel. Hope that helps!
@@No-One-of-Consequence I don't sorry - I sell haberdashery but I don't actually make clothes for sale or to order. I got into the haberdashery from making my own clothes. I am however in the process of learning how to draft sewing patterns - my first few will be women's patterns as that's what the course I've been doing focuses on, but in future I do want to release men's patterns too
This is what I needed to see! So many tutorials just show how to sew a couple scraps of fabric together, and make no mention of what to do once you're working with a complete tube.
Really glad you found it useful :)
I second this. Thank you!
Hear hear. At last found a video of the tube sewing. I wonder whether the jeans industry has a special machine designed for just this particular seam?
A lot of jeans on the outside leg are not a different machine....most industrials are typical flat beds, the outside leg is sewn last, with the tube turned inside out....most industrials environments try to avoid any kind of one off specialized machine such as free arms, button holers etc etc
Thank youuu! I chose this for my first ever sewing- pattern project haha 🤦🏻♀️😅
You're welcome! I hope you enjoy making your Tea House Dress :)
Unfortunately I cannot find a video where anyone goes into the interfacing. I am very confused about where it needs to go. On both Es? On both piece Bs? The pattern instructions really don’t get into detail at all. If not- then which one is used first? The one with interfacing?? Also the instructions picture looks like its doing something different when attaching piece E to the back and I don’t even know what to do at this point 😫
@@Paxxmo Firstly, don't panic. I know it can get overwhelming and some of the techniques are a little tricky, but take a deep breath and just take things one step at a time. I didn't show the interfacing step because the fabric I was using couldn't really be ironed and it's also very structured as it is, so I felt that I didn't need any. However I have made this pattern before and did use interfacings for that fabric. The interfacing goes onto the front yoke facing and the back yoke facing only - so not on both E and B pieces, just one of each. The interfaced piece is the one that goes inside the garment and this is known as the facing. Keep a look out in the instructions for attaching the facings, as that's how you'll know whether you're using the interfaced pieces or not at any point in the instructions. There's a tutorial just for the yoke pieces on the Sew House Seven website that will probably really help you - you can find it at sewhouse7.com/blogs/news/tea-house-top-dress-front-back-yokes-1. It's not a video, but it's full of photos and you should still be able to reference what I'm doing in the video if that helps you to visualise it better. Hope that helps :)
Oh goodness I cannot thank you enough! Thank you thank you 🙏🏻
@@Paxxmo No problem :)
Thanks for the tutorial! Do you think this skirt would work with a button placket in the back rather than a zipper?
Yes it would be possible to add a button placket rather than a zip, however as the zip is centered on the seam you might need to do a little work to make them line up in the centre. Don't let that put you off if you really want to have buttons instead of a zip though! Try checking out the instagram hashtag #youcanhackit to see if anyone else has done this pattern hack or to get some ideas on how best to replace the zip with buttons. Hope that helps :)
I have two pairs, both vintage/antique. One for large buttonholes and one for small. I love them.
Ah lucky you! Vintage/antique scissors are fascinating in their own right too :)
I enjoyed watching you sew, I had some complication but I managed to get it done. Thank you for being so detailed oriented. Can't wait for the next one.
You're welcome - and I'm glad you managed to get through your complications!
Thanks for this video in the context of pattern making. But my question is ,is there a line tool as in Adobe illustrator that lets one make lines with specific measurements. And also the rotate tool in Adobe illustrator, which makes dart transfer easier.
I mostly use the pen tool to draw my lines, so it may have a line tool and I might not know about it. It doesn't have exactly the same tools as Illustrator though, and I know that can put some people off. As for dart transfers, you can rotate around a point using the transform panel and selecting the point to rotate around. I haven't done it for a while, but if memory serves correctly, you use the node tool to select the point and on the transform panel you can select which point on the box it rotates around (the selected point is the largest one on the grid). Hope that helps!