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@@ZeliniahX If you are referring to the bolts, some penetration oil can help. I've noticed from other videos and comments not all of these are the same, so you may have more than one lock bolt or a completely different setup than what mine is.

I would honestly recommend RockAuto for most replacement parts. Their matrix allows you to narrow down the correct part. Even with shipping they are usually much cheaper than the auto parts stores. They also offer multiple options for replacement. You can choose OEM, or off brand either better or lower quality depending on what you want. I have a link in my description to the front hub that I replaced on my 2003. If you use this code 291202618257936066 in "Where did you hear about us" you will get an extra 5% off your order. It expires on February 14th, 2005 at midnight!

Honestly appreciate the concern. I had a failed repair over 15 yrs ago. Monitoring it with my physician and it has slowly gotten better and very little concerns now, but it sure can look crazy when I'm wearing tight shirts. :)

I would start with the air cleaner/air box to make sure you don't have any blockage or critters. The MAS (Mass Airflow Sensor) which is located in that intake tube can cause all kinds of problems if it goes bad. I don't know if cleaning it is possible, but try unplugging it and seeing if it makes a difference. I don't think they are terribly expensive to replace. If your power is down overall then you might have a clogged exhaust or catalytic convertor also. I'm not a certified mechanic, but this is where I would start. If you have a check-engine light, then you might want to take a look at the codes. OBDII readers are under $50 for an entry level one or many local parts stores read the codes for free for you.

Glad it helped

@@peterbedrosian622 unfortunately, that is not how these work. I am setting the preload on the hydraulic lifters in this case. This is NOT a stock valve train. setup.

@@cortniecall6637 They should plug into the harness that is under the seat. One plug-in for each motor.

@DoItMyselfGarage i see the white connector with the 2 wires like in your video that does plug in, but there is also a single wire with a black piece on the end. The black piece is wrapped in plastic that is also there. This is what I didn't see in your video and I cant find in any video or assembly directions online what i am supposed to do with it.

Thank you for responding!

​@@cortniecall6637 okay, so the plugins for the wheel motors should be pretty obvious and they only go one way. That single black wire should be the ground that goes on the battery terminal. I believe The positive was already connected and glued for shipping. The - sign is negative. It should slip on with small effort and stay put. This is the wire that you want to unplug when you store it for long times. The charging port is on the front under the seat. If you follow that power wire or ground wire you will see where it goes. It isn't really obvious unless you know where to look for it.

@DoItMyselfGarage hmmm... I'm not sure. I already located the grounds and all the other hookups but these 2 I'm just not sure of... i cant find where they hook too or mount too. We'll thank you so much for your help and video.

Thanks for the honest feedback. As my videos are not sponsored or scripted, they tend to come out a little tougher than others. I honestly didn't know how to operate it, as I was learning and discovering as I went which is half the fun for me. Thanks again for watching!

No, even though I got the wrong carburetor, I was able to make it work. So I haven't done any more research on the correct one. Small onions are really hard to get the correct carburetors because they just put on whatever they have available at the factory. The same model in the same year might come with several different carburetors from the factory at least in my experience.

Splicing in the power is different on every single car, so would be really hard for me to show an example that everybody can use. I would suggest against it usually because it will drain your battery if the camera is running all the time.

Sadly the quality of some of the aftermarket parts is questionable nowadays. I would try unplugging the sensor and seeing if it starts without it. Hopefully you got it seated properly. Any vacuum leak can cause issues. Should only cause idle issues, not a won't start issue though. I'm more of an old school carburetor guy, so some of this newer sensor stuff can really cause problems. Hopefully you can figure it out easily.

There are other sensors that can cause issues also like the MAF Mass Airflow Sensor on the intake tube. Perhaps when you were replacing the IAC the wiring got damaged or the connection not completely plugged in or making contact. If you are getting a check engine light, an OBD2 reader might point you in the right direction.

@@DoItMyselfGarage yes MAF sensor will be my next part I changed. Thanks

Awesome, that is great news to hear! Glad my video was helpful. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Yeah, you are almost to that point. Once you've done it 1x it isn't too bad. Honestly, the water pump was the worst part of the entire thing to get to line up right since it is kind of a cramped area. Thanks for watching!

On Amazon. Link is in the description.

It is mostly vapor that gets on the inside. Mine didn't have any real sludge like many other parts. I'm sure this varies from engine to engine depending on how they were running and how many miles were on it. It does get discolored, but it will get that way again just from the PCV drawing stuff up from the crankcase. If you are concerned, you could rinse it more thoroughly in a large sink with various cleaners and soapy water.

@@danp4725 Sorry, not sure how you would unpair it. If you have two cars, maybe pairing it to another would make it forget the first.

I don't think there is a volume control unless you are using the bluetooth function.

Thanks for watching. According to one of my comments, I think the front fender goes the other way with the decal/flower to the front. Either way, enjoy and hopefully the assembly goes well for you!

Good luck with your repair and thanks for watching!

Never noticed that. I'll have to swap that around. Thanks for watching!

Yes, with credit please.

@@DoItMyselfGarage Thank you!

Thanks for the kind words. I have approved your link so it can hopefully be of help to others as well.

It's awesome you have such a caring heart. I hope the best for you and maybe you will be able to figure something out. God Bless and have a Very Merry Christmas.

@@youmustcreateachanne I don't honestly remember anything being pre- installed. I do remember the door having to push up on it and the bottom sliding into place. We gifted the dollhouse to another family, so I don't have anything to reference for you other than my vague memory of assembling it.

Yeah, I go into more detail in the original video on setting up the rearend when I switched to the limited slip. That noise was so weird and echoed that I thought it was from the rear. Spoiler alert to anyone reading the comments, it was the front bearing making all that noise. Thanks again for the comment and for watching!

They are just pressed in or drawn in with an old lug nut and some washers. Couple of smacks with a 3# hammer and they pop right out the back!

Thanks for the tips and for watching!

Glad it was helpful!

@@allenleach9371 About 4-5 hours is probably a good expectation the first time. It is actually a pretty straight forward repair that most anyone can do with basic hand tools. I spent a lot of time consulting other videos to make sure I didn't miss anything. I'd definitely give yourself a good Saturday morning/afternoon to get it done so you're not rushed.

Mine fit down in there without any issues. It might be easier to remove a few more things on top, (battery, etc) to get a bit more room to work. Other than that I'd make sure you have the correct one and that the old gasket isn't in the way. I wish I could have gotten some better camera shots down in there, but if you are working on it right now you can tell there isn't much room for anything more than just your hands.

Thanks for the response. Is the entire thermostat + gasket around it supposed to sit entirely inside the block or is the gasket supposed to be sandwiched between the housing and the block?

@@jeremysyrop4552 The gasket goes around the outside of the thermostat and the long part of the thermostat goes into the block. The gasket and thermostat should fit nicely into the slightly recessed part of the block. The metal housing that bolts into place will press on the rubber part and make a positive seal and hold everything in place.

Hi again. Besides the one gasket that sits around the thermostat I. That recessed area, is there another gasket that’s supposed to go on the flat surface?

@jeremysyrop4552 Not that I'm aware of. Since the gasket hugs the thermostat and the housing presses it against the block that should be all that is needed for a good seal. I know it's hard to see in there, but if it is still leaking and you can't get a good seal then you might have some debris on the surfaces or possibly a crack.

Great little cars and not too terrible to work on. Thanks for watching!

Glad it was helpful!

Gas for this should be premium(non-ethanol) mixed at a 50:1 ratio with 2 cycle oil, not 4 cycle oil. 2 cycle oil is designed to burn unlike 4 cycle oil that is designed only for lubrication.

@@neonjohn10 Yes, the line should go to the bottom of the tank and have a small filter attached to it. This keeps the line at the bottom and makes sure your fuel is clean. I can take a picture of mine tomorrow if you want and post it on my Facebook page.

Also after cold start, when I put it in PARK, The idle will continuously be at almost 2,000 RPM again. I have NO vacuum leak i can see or find. I did a smoke test, etc. NOTHING.

The throttle body has been cleaned, I took off the intake and cleaned the ports, etc. STILL high IDLE.!

I wouldn't rule out a bad IAC. Especially if you bought aftermarket for the replacement. Also, make sure the IAC is installed properly and has a good seal. It doesn't take much of a vacuum leak to really throw the computers off on these older cars. Also, these cars are known for having cracked intakes. So you may be chasing that. You can spray something like a combustible brake/carb cleaner around on the top of the engine to see if you have a vacuum leak. The engine speed will change and then you can better track down where the issue is.

@@ngtitovWorldOfCars yeah, I definitely got lucky when it failed. Would have been an expensive learning experience otherwise. Car has 200,000 mi on it now and still running great. Thanks for watching!

@@DoItMyselfGarage I watched your video 3 times. Will be doing my Timing belt on the weekends. Thank you again!!

Thanks for watching!