Відео

Phillips? Reed & Prince? JIS? Posidrive? Or one of those newfangled combo tips? Phooey! Just do everything on Robertson . . . Or Torx.

LOL.. talking about airplanes and showing a car assembly line... 👎

You can use a JIS screwdriver for JIS and Phillips fittings. You can’t use a Phillips screwdriver for JIS fittings. JIS screwdrivers are more versatile thus better.

Great video.

A lot to be said to uncover the truth. Well done!

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Hi Danielle, can you confirm, that the BSC really does flattop chains? Much appreciated - thanks.

At 4:43 you put the Remco into its lowest position at 34" while the EVT clamp is at 39". Can the EVT arm be rotated 180 degrees, where it attaches to the Remco clamp chuck, so instead of the clamp being at 39", it is at 29" or close to 29"?

In Europe the IceToolz and Knipex are similarly priced. So I'm curious, how is the durability of both compared to each other?

Thanks for the elaborate review - you had me find the BSC one, which I find the sexiest of all...but something tells me that after duties and taxes that the Tutto II is the better choice....if there wasn't that Tutto I for a much better price. I fail to see why the Tutto I doesn't work for 12-speed chains (per Pedros compatibility chart). Do you know if that still holds true, if using quicklinks instead of riveting/peening?

or just use the king dick 1 for 6 ph1/2/3pz1/2/3 profile bit screwdriver on any and all cross head screws

Inventory can be a double edged sword, especially when getting into higher end parts its easy to get over extended trying to stock a wide range. An advantage of brick and mortar is obviously being able to do a service assessment and write up, order parts, store the bike, minimize inventory and put that cash into stuff that actually moves and is profitable. It's nice to have a little bit of a range of options to present and I hate to say it but upselling works and when you offer a higher end parts option customers often go for it. Some other essential things to have are bar tape, racks, fenders, seats, pumps, etc... I find accessories like low end lights are hard to compete with retailers like amazon.

Thanks for an informative video! I do wonder how many new Philips bits conform to the ISO 8764-1 standard re #2.

I'm fully operational and launched my mobile bike repair shop is run out of a school bus based in LA. and because I don't do sales there's no need for inventory. I built three bikes during the pandemic no need to shadow a mechanic and my clients bring their own parts needed for the repair. Also, not in it for the $, I want to simply remove barriers to traditonal B/M bike shop models re access - I'm planning to become a non-profit in year 2.

Maybe they created it for new complete bikes? 11 speed is more than enough. I have no desire to go higher than that

Nice!

Excellent overview! I would really appreciate yours or other commenters insights on Loctite 243.

i like topeak's all speeds tool

Can you use the extractor for pulling out the cup to?

ko tank you how mach cast plz tall me

Did you ever use Spoke Prep? I used it for years. I still think it was latex paint but it worked pretty good.

What was your shop called and are you still in business?

Hmmm, I enjoyed and appreciated 99% of this vid, but the part where you say that "most torque specs assume that the bolt/thread is dry" made me cringe - How can you make such a claim and how much does it really help if you don't really know if that claim applies to a particular sitatuation or not? I see this as a fundamental problem in the industry - as a mechanic you encounter torque specs in many stems, thru axles etc, but I claim that there is very little info e.g. about dry/not dry - you are not provided with that info in the manuals or necessarily have any access to related materials. And all in all there are hundreds if not thousands of brands making components. So I really am interested in knowing how can you make such a sweeping statement even if brands like Shimano do exist. To highlight, sometimes torque values are stamped as "max" values, other times not - so without clear instructions in a particular situation you are left with the question of "is this some sort of a max value/ reccomended value or what?" Furthermore, there is very little info provided about whether or how the value relates to the bolt/the object it is threaded into and to the object it transfers pressure. For example, when you look at a stem with 5nm marking on the face plate, does that mean that exceeding the value can brake the bolt? strip the threads? crack the faceplate? crack the handlebar? one/two/all of these? Such info might be beneficial if e.g. you are considering switching the bolts to a different material in a broblem scenario. I claim that most of the time, you are just playing an educated guessing game "yeah, using a torque wrench set to that value nothing should brake and nothing should slip". And 99% of the time that is how that goes. But still, you are just making assumptions when you don't have a manufacturer's clear manual stating what is what. Related to this, when you pose the question of "was it torqued to the correct spec?" in case of e.g.a broken handle bar - this issue in reality is so complex that without a clear understanding of the particular case plenty of other questions could/should be asked just as well - e.g. what was the diameter of the handlebar clamp area? or the stem? applying the "correct torque" to an under-/over-/correctly sized object gives different results without even getting into the issues of lubrication/corrosion/manufacturing errors etc. Ok, enough. Kudos for clarifying and educating, but I do have a feeling that until this industry gets to the level of the "serious industries" you mention us mechanics and DIYers still end up cracking bolts and getting thru axles stuck in frames even with a better understanding of what a threadlocker is or buying a 300eur Giustaforza.

..this is blowing my mind in so many ways…glad i found this..great (art)work!…

Do you like to stock chain lube to sell, because i often find clients do not lube their chain. Common 7,8,9 speed rear derailleurs might also be good too because we often see those being bent or broken

btw i just buy cues rear deraliur U4020 (2X9), 11-36 Linkglide Sprocket Cues, WITH Sora Crank and also sora brifter. i got plan for use my regular KMC Chain for that, well see today if this woks

You didn't cover the through the top wrenches .. but you showed them on the bench :(, I watched this for nothing.

Will your cat make future appearances?

I got a 2nd hand Felco C7, it was terrible, couldn’t even cut a cable. But it was old so probably it has already gone beyond its usefulness. But still, it’s some information. My superB is better (and I don’t like that one), this is why I’m on this video. I would go Icetoolz but my hands are big. Maybe Pedro’s or Knipex for me. I have Knipex 71 02 200 bolt cutters which are excellent for brake housing and everything in a way, just not great on wire rope (aka brake/shift cable). It even crimps

amazing video! just got a bottle of blue for the winter service of my bike.

Use Loctite OR carry a mini torque wrench in your tool kit , assuming you have one and periodically check everything during a rest.

SHOP CAT

fun fact... the pre-applied threadlocker is called patch lock - a nylon material that generally stays with the threads following disassembly, making it effectively reusable, unlike liquid threadlocker which always needs to be reapplied. great video, Danielle! 🙂

Love all your videos. Wish they were more often 🤔. Coming from the aerospace side, fastener torque is always a deep rabbit hole for sure. On the equipment I directed work on, I always specified anti-seize along with the associated lubricated torque specifications. If you look at any engineering spec, they almost always use lubricated thread torque (or measure bolt stretch... the best method). Realistically, there is really no repeatable or accurate dry torque. Even the slight oil residue from your fingers on the bolt threads will somewhat lube the threads and thusly affect the actual torque applied (thus the clamping force and bolt stretch). I've seen this proven in tests. The problem with bike torque specs is they never specify dry or lubricated threads. With them, I apply nickel anti-seize or liquid thread-locker and use the 20% rule (as you mentioned). If you google "Spring Analogy for a Bolted Joint", You'll find that it's all about applying the correct preload so the joint never really sees more load than it is preloaded at initially. The thread-locker is more for fastener retention when affected by vibration and thermals.

Needy, informative, and lots of humour. Bravo and thank you!

Excellent. Thank you for this.

Absolutely first class video, thanks so much. Keep up the great content!

Have heard that applying grease to a closed hole can build pressure and crack the part, what do you do in that situation?

The only issue about keeping or storing threadlockers is its shelf life or storage life which compromises its efficacy. According to Loctite its threadlockers expire 12 months from the date of manufacture.

Thank you for this video, very informative and an exceedingly well execution. I needed this video as I've been going through Neutral Support News withdraws.

I don't use thread locker on brake bolts will I die? Never use thread locker on inserts like bottle cage mounts, especially red. It's been awhile since I didn't need to use thread locker but recently I did use some blue loctite installing the aenomaly switchgrade. I poured some into the rails and on the seatpost contact point. *No ish

I always appreciate your videos and I love your sense of humour!!

Awesome. Impressive knowledge. Love geeking out on this kinda stuff!

yeah you'll get in trouble with linseed oil... if you keep it in leaky containers like that! 😂

Oh, and lastly. (this sounds like WhatsApp messages / why not write everything in one message? Haha!) What happens when I apply thread lock to the screw in advance, and it dries? When I install it, it is no longer liquid. Does this mean that the properties are lost, diminished or what? I hope Danielle will give me more of your time and that you can answer so many questions that arose when watching your video. Thank you very much in advance!

I thought you would have chosen the Cookie Monster for the blue loc tite eg.

I like the blind hole piece of info.. thanks.

Thanks! Couple of gems there!!

...how important it is to reduce the torque (20%) when using a thread lock or grease (or other). Remember, yes, the sensation of tightening a screw with or without a thread lock (or grease) is different. With a thread lock it is smoother.

I would have liked to hear and see how to properly clean the Loctite off a bolt when reinstalling it with a thread lock. What is the correct procedure? Your videos are very interesting, the analysis is deep and simple at the same time with a lot of good humor, for me it is the perfect combination of high-value content presented in such an easy-to-understand way. Thank you very much for shining the light!