Відео

Knipex, to be exact, superior to channel locks in every way. They actually grab on four sides of the bolt head. I do hear what you're saying however and will use the appropriate tool when making "educational content".

amzn.to/417x267 under $25 for an assortment pack

Thanks Jesse, I see the order and will fill it when I get home. I greatly appreciate it and I hope you all can enjoy it together as much as I enjoyed writing it!

Sometimes all that is required is someone else's perspective. I'm really glad the video was helpful for you! Thank you for taking the time to let me know it did.

I'm so glad that you found this video helpful. I've made all the same mistakes myself and it's so frustrating when you're doing all the steps, but it's not coming out right! It sounds to me like you have a good system moving forward. Thank you for taking the time to leave this comment!

Potentially? If you could find something fine enough. If we're talking about the same filter sock, its primarily job is to keep dirt/mud/rock/debris out of perforated pipe. I don't think the filter sock would go down to the same micron level as the prefilter would. However without comparing the specifics side by side, testing would be the next best thing to determine. I'm sure the filter sock would be better than not having anything at all and if you have it on hand and could sew one side shut, then I say give it a go and let me know how it works. It would prevent the filter from getting packed if you over filled the vacuum, but I'm not sure if the finer dust would stay out.

@ Understood completely 👌 I wouldn’t imagine it getting that really fine dust. Greatly appreciate your feedback 🙏

Absolutely, I appreciate your thoughts and input

113.298750

@ thanks for the answer I just bought a 113298761 Belt Dr. 3 hp, Scott two cast-iron extensions one on each side

@jmvenus Very nice. I only have the 1 HP motor and I've only had issues if I cut too fast through maple or a 6x6. I bet you could fell a tree with a 3 hp motor! These tablesaws are great and have a pretty good community behind them as well. Please feel free to reach out if you have any issues.

Haha, nice catch. It only looks scary because the video is sped up. The piece only fell off the back of the table saw, not thrown like it appears.

I'm glad you found the video helpful and I appreciate your time letting me know.

That's awesome! It's a bit of work, but completely night and day difference! Let me know how it goes.

First off, congratulations on the great find! You share the same exact frustration as other 113 users. The fence is garbage, but to be completely honest, once I started using Rocklers crosscut sled, I very rarely need the fence, even the Biesemeyer fence that I added gets little use anymore.

Rockler's CrossCut Sled IS The Secret to PERFECT Cuts! ua-cam.com/video/2yzROxdty20/v-deo.html

🤦‍♂️💀

I'm so glad this video helped! We've all been there. Thank you for taking the time to let me know.

Thanks for the comment, I actually started using them about a year ago now and love them!

Yes they are

My channel is for beginners.

Hey Michael, man sounds like you're in a pickle. If you have a new blade I would risk damaging the old blade before the rest of your tablesaw. I would recommend soaking the nut overnight with a liberal amount of penetrating oil. Wedge a large screw driver or metal handle into the teeth of the blade the next day and try again with the appropriately sized wrench. Using pliers when it's that tight could maximize the chances of stripping the nut. This should keep the blade from spinning, if it stops spinning, but is still tight, I would proceed with heating the nut for a a few minutes and then using a hammer to hit the wrench to loosen the nut. If the blade still spins, then clamp a large vise grip plier to the blade. It should be take a lot of effort to lock the pliers in place. Please keep me informed on your progress, I hope this helps.

@@novicewoodworker I’m spent for today but will get back at it Friday to salvage the week end hopefully. Thank you 4 good advice. I wish they mad a thin vise grip. A fresh mind will triumph tomorrow.

@@michaelweymouth4015 Any luck?

@ yes! I couldn’t get anything to clamp the arbor side, until I dropped blade and flipped table upside down. From underneath a small pipe wrench could get to the arbor, before that I had placed a Milwaukee heat gun directly towards the nut. I had been spraying with PB Blaster. The first pull didn’t get anything, but 2nd grab got some movement. Slow to get shoulder nut off, but after I turned on saw with out blade and ran a wire brush over thread groove and put a dab of heavy duty travelers purple grease. Even with new blade 2”x3.5” oak hogged down the motor. I ended up setting blade to just over 1/2 depth and flipped boards for final pass and cut. I’m surprised no flats or holes for hand grinder wrench. But now I know smallest pipe wrench from underneath. I hope no one else has to go through this. Thanks for the support and encouragement to keep trying.

Hey, Congratulations on freeing that nut, I'd route you on all over again, I'm excited for you. It is a bummer about the oak bogging down the motor though. What size is your motor? I believe mine is 3/4 (I'm not near the saw at the moment), but heard good things about upgrading to the 1 or 1.5 hp motors (not everyone wants to spend that much money on their saws though). I do know that a proper ripping blade would make a big difference over a crosscut (I'm not sure what blade you're running now) and even a thinner kerf could help reduce the load. Regardless I hope the rest of your project goes on without a hitch. If there's anything else that I could help you with, or if you have a video that you would like to see in the future, I would love to hear it. -Will

Thanks for sharing!

I never thought about how the older vacuums weren't designed with a bag in mind. Thank you for sharing!!

That was my goal, thank you for taking the time to let me know!

Haha, you have a funny definition of fun...

I appreciate your suggestion. That would save a lot of time! I imagine there's a fine line between heating it up enough that the chisel can cut through, but not ruin the piece. I wanted the bottoms to be smooth as well, so I would probably still need to run through the sanding grits afterwards.

You're welcome, I'm glad you found the information helpful. I believe that any plastic miter box will have some flex, but maybe some of the other ones have better support for the sides. I would like to hear your opinion on the Stanley if you purchase one.

I bought one of these …total piece of junk. Save your money…

That's great feedback, I appreciate your time in letting me know! You'll enjoy the upgrade, guaranteed.

I've since added a filter bag to the mix. I agree that they work great.

No apologies needed. Anchorseal seals the end of the log so it doesn't dry out too fast and start checking (cracking from the ends).

Absolutely, I'm glad you found it valuable. Thank you for taking to time to leave a comment!

Absolutely! Thank you for your comment.

Thank you!

Thank you for taking the time to reach out!

Thanks for your feedback

I'm glad this video helped! Let me know if you guys have any other issues.

You're welcome!

I'm so glad this was helpful for you!

Thank you kindly! I've purchased some paste wax as well. It's probably the best long term investment. I've noticed that the T9 that I put on top causes friction after a while, where the paste wax will help reduce friction.

I used a dowel a few times, but this protects the blade itself as well as your fingers. For $12 I thought it was worth a share.

They're Knipex, superior to channel locks, but I understand where you are coming from. You're not alone in your thoughts, I've had a few people mention them. I'll be sure to have a proper fitting wrench in future videos.

A plastic cover to protect the blade of the tablesaw and your hand/fingers when removing and installing the blade.

Solid advice, less likely to slip and bust a knuckle or worse. Thanks for speaking up.

I appreciate your feedback! I'm playing long ball here. A Hepa filter is $20-40 depending on what size/brand of vac you have. So the cost of four pre-filters. On top of that, the extra filters that you toss add to landfill waste. Yes one person cannot make a difference, but as a collective, if it becomes common practice, then there's a large impact. I'm hoping to inspire others to do the same, but if you're not interested, keep doing you. I hope you have a great week.

I recently added a filter bag to this setup and it's absolutely amazing

Yep total sense, just until the shaft is flush with the outside of the pulley.

That would make sense why mine is binding up

@@eddieboyle3123 I would love to know if this fixes your issue.

I am very happy that this was helpful for you! I really appreciate you shouting out your location as well. Gracias.

Sadly not, the pre filter is designed for dry particulate matter only.

I'm so glad you found it helpful! I really appreciate your feedback.

Thank you for the feedback, I'm sorry you didn't see it in time. The new belt and pulleys are fantastic aren't they?

@@novicewoodworkerYes! Turn to 45! (Smack forehead)

Thank you for the school lesson. I had no clue that the manufacturer changed so often over the years. I'll look into the other suggestions, I appreciate your input!

Great idea! I've heard the shop Fox setup is very similar. This fence has mad all the difference.

I'll be honest, I was planning on building a sled myself, until I bought the Rockler crosscut miter sled and drop off. There has only been two times when I wished I had a sled with a stop block and the whole thing moved. Take a look, it's under 3 minutes long, but I truly love this thing. ua-cam.com/video/QFC_p__Y9hA/v-deo.html