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davemolony1
Приєднався 4 вер 2011
Відео
wilson flyer fast fishing boat package ready to go with yamaha outboard and trailer
Переглядів 5873 роки тому
fully serviced ready to go fast fishing boat
Driver 500 speed boat / power boat for sale.
Переглядів 8363 роки тому
Driver 500 speed boat / power boat for sale. complete package with 100hp motor and trailer. Ready to run
speed boat for sale DT 25 and trailer package.
Переглядів 5723 роки тому
Speedboat with Suzuki DT 25 hp outboard and road trailer. ready to go package. end of season bargain. completely ready to use. just had the following: trailer- has has new sealed wheel bearing's, new jockey wheel , new break-away cable, new winch and new waterproof grease, Engine- new impeller kit, gear oil change, new spark plugs, carb's cleaned. all grease points greased with marine grease, n...
Shakespeare 14 foot speedboat for sale
Переглядів 1,2 тис.3 роки тому
speedboat for sale in west sussex. mariner 55 hp and galvanised trailer. fully serviced and ready to go. new interior and loads of new parts. dave.molony@hotmail.com
Boat trip to the Isle of Wight 2019 on our Draco 3000
Переглядів 1,4 тис.5 років тому
Week trip on our Draco 3000 boat called Sea Jay
3 Men in a Boat
Переглядів 615 років тому
3 Men cross the Solent in search of adventure and good times
Yuneec Breeze 4k
Переглядів 1115 років тому
1st effort with the new Yuneec Breeze 4K. Very impressed but follow me didnt work on my samsung tablet but did with my Huawei phone. Bit strange.
How to clean a marine heat exchanger volvo aqd40a
Переглядів 6 тис.5 років тому
Cleaned using watered down patio cleaner which contains hydrochloric acid
Volvo penta aqd40a aq series 280 outdrive bell house intermediate shafts bearings replacement
Переглядів 21 тис.6 років тому
A quick video to show how to replace the bearings on the Bell house intermediate shafts for volvo penta aq series drives.
Kayden flying his radio controlled aeroplane
Переглядів 4912 років тому
Kayden flying his radio controlled aeroplane
Dave Molony's rinker 266 being lifted in
Переглядів 78612 років тому
Dave Molony's rinker 266 being lifted in
Dave mike and andy returning from iow festival
Переглядів 4812 років тому
Dave mike and andy returning from iow festival
kaydens 9 foot spitfire boat part 3
Переглядів 3,8 тис.12 років тому
kaydens 9 foot spitfire boat part 3
Kaydens 9 foot spitfire boat part 1
Переглядів 1,2 тис.12 років тому
Kaydens 9 foot spitfire boat part 1
daves volvo penta 5.0 v8 first run after rebuild
Переглядів 57512 років тому
daves volvo penta 5.0 v8 first run after rebuild
why not use some oil???
Hi, in regards to the dateline bikini speedboat video, I have the same vessel, could you please help me with some information about the location of the HIN plate? That would be awesome.
The tohatsu boat 2 stroke or 4
I was notified that Paul Curel just left a question..... but I do not find it here. Paul asked: "Are those two bearings pressed in from the snout and are the side by side of each other? Reason I'm asking as where that smaller seal goes it is thinner in dimension for about 1 inch then gets wider to the 62mm diameter towards the snout!" Paul, I may not be understanding your question, but I'll take a stab at it. The two bearings sit FWD and AFT of each other (not side by side). Only one bearing (the AFT bearing) is pressed onto the PDS, followed by 1 compression snap ring. The PDS, along with the now installed AFT bearing, are now pushed back into the "clean" Flywheel Cover until it comes to rest against the stop within the F/C bore. One large snap ring is now installed. The second large snap ring follows. The FWD bearing is a friction fit onto the PDS and within the Flywheel Cover bore. The AFT seal is then pushed into place against the AFT-most large snap ring (lip and tension spring will be visible). You will NOT see the AFT-most snap ring once completed! (it will be ahead of this seal) Keep in mind that these are Industry Standard bearings and seals. No need to purchase via Volvo Penta. By the way, the PDS fits within the Marine Flywheel Cover. Bellhousing is an Automotive term. At 7:26 into the video, he shows us the grease fitting at 12:00 O'clock position. This fitting can be replaced with an 18" grease gun extension hose with a zerk fitting installed in the loose end. Fasten the hose up where it will be in plan sight and you won't be inclined to forget servicing these bearings during each oil change. Pump the new grease in while Engine is at idle speed....... Dynamic -vs- Static! For any of you who would like to see detailed images and more detailed instructions, do a Google search using key words "Volvo Penta PDS bearing replacement" followed by "2850Bounty" or "RicardoMarine". .......
One additional and redundant thought…… If the PDS grease cavity is NOT pre-filled, the 4 to 5 future service pumps of grease will never make it to the more important AFT bearing! Make sure to "Pre-Fill" the grease cavity (as you spin the PDS) prior to installing the AFT seal. Also, whatever type of grease you start out with will be the type of grease that you were want to continue with. Mixing unlike grease chemistries can cause problems with viscosity! And again…… the FWD seal must be staked or glued in place, and remember that the AFT seal installs in the non-conventional direction.
In the Marine world, the bellhousing is actually a Flywheel Cover. The bearings will be industry standard bearings. The seals are also industry std in a TCM or Timken. The forward seal must be staked or glued into position. If you lose the seal, no future grease will make it to the aft bearing. The aft seal installs in the non-conventional direction. In other words, when installed you will be able to see the lip and tension spring. As said earlier, before you install the seals, start filling the PDS cavity while you spin the PDS. Only after you see grease exit the ball cage will you install the seals!
Great video and lovely boat. I’ve just come across these Draco boats and have to say they look amazing. Guess you would recommend?
Yes they are a very solid boat
Wow, just watched your holiday video (twice actually.. had to show the Mrs). I think you have just opened my eyes to private boating. You have a beautiful boat. Thank you for posting, I am looking forward to see more videos.
Followed your video which was exactly how my flywheel cover primary drive shaft is set up! A question, though? How would one go about 'staking' the forward seal to the housing? Is it a matter of peening over the end of the shaft mouth? Alternatively, if you glue it, what would be a good recommendation for an adhesive? I also see a gap between the aft bearing circlip and the 2nd circlip which is meant to stop the aft seal from sliding into the bearing. I wonder if Volvo planned on fitting a second bearing here, or a second seal, prior to the outermost seal? Maybe an extra bearing would be useful in a commercial application where heavy usage is expected? If so, would it be ok to install essentially a 3rd bearing between the aft bearing circlip and the aft seal using the additional otherwise unused space? I've decided to use sealed bearings in my application. These are SKF bearings. I'll pop in the numbers when I get them. The circlips, I used genuine Volvo Penta ones all through. I found the following drawing of the bell housing(Flywheel cover) and shaft assembly here: www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-spare-parts.aspx?Catalog=7742700&Category=44&View=1767 and there is an odd bushing between the aft bearing and the aft seal, with no sign of a second circlip. Not sure what the issue would be if putting it together like this? That odd bushing is not there in another installation : Volvo Penta Exploded view / schematic Connecting Components AQ Drive Unit 290A, DP290A: B AQAD41A, AD41A - MarinePartsEurope.com Finally, I guess this is a 'grease it and forget it' type of installation as you wouldn't want to go forcing more grease into the void between the 2 bearings and risk blowing out the forward or aft seal in the process - as it looks at best to be in a hell of a place to get to once the engine is installed, and impractical to force grease into it, where it is. So, what grease should we use there? That looked a lot like Castrol LM. Would we be better off with a higher-temperature grease here, perhaps?
1 of each of these bearings - SKF 6206-2RS1 and SKF 6007-2RS1. Hope that helps someone..
Dave, lovely boat and great seeing you having fun with your family. We have a Draco 2500 TC and keep in the Camber and I've seen a 3000 TC and another 2500 TC down at the ECA is that your 3000 there mate?
Yes, one of them
Hi! Can I ask how you got the cooler out of the housing? Do you have any tips and tricks to share? Mine seems to be stuck.
Really nice boat.. Nice fam to..
There is no need to pre-pack these bearings. Install the PDS with the bearings, but do not yet install the seals. While spinning the PDS, pump the new grease into the flywheel cover's grease port. As you spin the PDS (key word "spin"), the new grease will fill the cavity, then enter and exit the ball cages. By spinning the PDS as the grease is added, it will not only purge the cavity of any air, it will pack both bearings. Now install the seals! FYI... if the cavity is not pre-filled, future greasing attempts will NOT sufficiently reach the bearings.
Can someone post all dimensions ( bearing type) needed? Bearing and Seals?
@@Vbokisha These will be industry standard bearings. The industry std number will stamped or laser etched into the outer race. The seal dimension will also be on the old seal casing. And by the way....... davemolony1 fails to show or mention that the FWD seal must be glued and/or staked into position. If you loose the FWD seal, no future grease will make it through the AFT bearing. The AFT seal installs in the non-conventional direction.... i.e., lip and tension spring visible. This is so the AFT seal can breach any excessive grease.
@@markemery49 i mesured bearing housing 62.25 i assume it's not damaged but as you sayd seal needs to be glued but also bearing!? And if you can tell me AFT is? Excessive grese goes in flywheel or in bellow. Thank you for reply!
@@Vbokisha The bearings and seals will be listed in a Metric dimension. Only the FWD seal will be glued and staked into position. The bearings are secured via snap rings. You will pre-fill the grease cavity (while you spin the PDS) before installing the AFT seal. The AFT seal installs in the non-conventional direction! The AFT seal installs up against the AFT most snap ring..... NOT ahead of the snap ring.... behind it. And yes, if the PDS cavity needs to purge any excessive grease, it will make it past the AFT seal lip, and will fall into the drive shaft bellows area.
@@Vbokisha FWD is forward, in other words towards the bow, no matter where you are at the time and no matter what position the Flywheel Cover is in while doing the work. AFT is rearward, in other words towards the stern, no matter where you are at the time and no matter what position the Flywheel Cover is in while doing the work. . With a Double Bearing PDS, the FWD bearing is secured by a snap ring that fits into a snap ring retaining groove within the aluminum flywheel cover (aka bellhousing in Automotive terms). The bearing is NOT glued! The snap ring holds the bearing in position! After the PDS has been re-installed, the FWD seal is glued and staked so that it can not be pushed out via Grease Gun Pressure. Then after the PDS cavity has been pre-filled , the AFT seal is then installed in the (lip and tension spring facing AFT). By design, any future excess grease will make it's way past the AFT seal, and will purge into the drive shaft bellows.... NOT into the flywheel area! The FWD seal should NOT breach, nor should it be allowed to be pushed out of position by excessive grease force........ If the FWD seal was NOT glued or staked, it may be pushed out of it's bore by excessive grease force. If that was to occur, no future grease will make it to the AFT bearing, of which is the more important bearing! .
Hi the veneer was very thin probably 1/32'' the extra gauge is a fuel flow meter which was there when I bought the boat about 7 years ago in florida I then shipped the boat to the uk
Dave, thanks for the reply, I thought you may have upgraded the dash yourself, great job, it looks great!!! The dash area has always been a issue with me, I don't think Rinker put much effort in the dash design and finish. I will get some laminate and improve my dash over the winter. How thick was your laminate? 1/16" or so? Also, what was the gauge forward of your shift lever?, I don't have anything in that location on my boat. I live in Annapolis, Md near the Chesapeake Bay. thks, kirk
Hi im glad you like it. I actually made the dash myself. I removed the old aluminium one tjen removed all the gauges etc then rubbed down the aluminium dash until all the paint and any corrosion was completely gone then I painted it to protect it after it was dry I covered it in epoxy the clamped a laminate over it tightly. When this was dry I cut the holes through from the back and then refitted all the gauges and switches hope this helps
Dave, I have a 1996 Rinker FV266. Where did you get the wood grain dash panel on you boat? Mine is a crappy looking painted dash. thanks, ks
I have some very goof information about this boat! I just restored one myself, it's an Hellwig Superpuck V300. It's a great boat! ill send a video of my version soon!