Відео

So I see plenty of air coming through that hose. I know it’s not coming from inside the brake system. Is there any concern of air being introduced to the system via the bleeder?

What about the air bubbles and getting air in the system? You never mentioned how to avoid that.

nice brother thank you

Butt when you are bleeding the brake shouldn't there be no air coming out of the bleeder valve before you close off? In this video it seemed like a lot of air was still being vacuumed out. Only asking because I am going to do it soon.

Finally, a brake bleeding video from someone with experience, not guesswork.

removing the wheel makes it sooooo much easier

It's much better to reverse bleed the brake lines because air bubbles always want to escape by rising to the high point which is the master cylinder reservoir. Follow this up by doing a 1 person blessing by opening the bleeder valve and pushing down on brake pedal forcing the fluid down into a bottle that has new brake fluid in the bottle so when you release the brake pedal the hose can only suck up the fluid. The air bubbles will escape on the bottle of fluid by rising when you push down on the brake pedal.

No compressor needed?

Thanks for sharing 🙏🏿

I once flushed the brake lines of a '95 Ford Contour I had until 2015, but I did it a bit differently. I emptied out as much of the old fluid from the reservoir first, as in the prescribed method, but then, before I added new fluid, I bled out the old fluid from the lines until the entire system was as bone-dry as I could make it. Then, I added new fluid into the reservoir and bled it on through the lines until all the air was gone. I did it that way because I didn't want any of the new fluid to accidentally mix with the old, even a little bit. They are different densities by that point and I didn't know how visible the boundary between the new and old fluids would be. So I thought leaving an air gap between the new and old fluid in the beginning and bleeding it on through, would ultimately be safer. What's your take on this?

Nice 👍

nice job

I’ve always heard to start with caliper closest to master cylinder.

KUDOS !!! You are best !!!! Thanks !!!! KEEP GOING!!!! kudos

Great tutorial, straight forward to the point.

Great video, detailed instructions. Thanks a lot for sharing!

I'm a stickler for detail you forgot to say you put the jack stand on his car after you jacked it up. It's my OCD sry..

Should you push in the brake piston to empty the old fluid from the caliper too?

Thank you sir.

You leave the reservoir cap on or off to do this?

good video more detail thanks, one quick question, should I keep the brake fluid tank open when I do the bleed?

The problem with that system is, you have an uphill battle with air being drawn in through bleeder screws. One way of addressing that is removing screw and adding Teflon specific to petroleum products. The second way is just to replace bleeder screws with Russell speed bleeders.. compression methods are 50 50 % success rate at home. Two person is better..

You dont always bleed breaks in this order. If you have anti lock brakes (ABS) you bleed it farthest from the ABS module which controles the fluid directed to each line. You need to bleed the air from the abs module as well and betten the module and the master cylinder otherwise you rintroduce bad fluid, contaminants and air.

You are right on point because contaminated brake fluid will mess up the sensor in an ABS and some of those ABS specially the hybrid vehicle and electric vehicles cost an arm and a leg, one example is Tahoe hybrid with used ABS from eBay a whooping 1000 dollars. You can’t even buy new ones since manufacturing has stopped on them ABS actuators .I own an EV/ HEV repair shop and I always stress how important periodic brake fluid change to prolong life of the ABS system. Sometimes a fresh fluid change can reverse an ABS system that has started throwing codes. Sometimes moisture in the fluid causes sensor to go haywire. Luckily though they operate on very low current nothing gets fried

Well done video.

Should you put the cap on the master cylinder every time for every wheel?

What brand brake bleeder did you buy?

I bought a cheep one was not worth the package.

Does the car have an ABS system?

did you keep reservoir open without cap during the bleeding?

Congratulations for being the only man on UA-cam who can explain how to bleed brakes in plain and simple English. Great video mate, very concise. All the best 👍

The tools no so help full, cause still keep the air inside, there is more better just star the engine & press the break to pump out the old oil.

Reservoir cap on or off

Good video

this is the first video where I felt like I was there with you actually learning for once . Highly recommend you keep making helpful videos .

Hey I know this is an old video but can somebody help me with a question can I start at any wheel of do I have to do the same pattern start at back and work your way around

This is a very nice and straightforward tutorial, the only thing I would have mentioned is to pump the brake a few times to build pressure before driving, as you may not have full brake pressure right away after bleeding, and won't be able to stop quickly. Thanks for the video!

HyGroscopic

When i start to pump i need to fill up the reservoir and put the cap tight? or i have to remove the cap

Taking the wheel off makes it much more easier

good video, question....if I just take off the break oil from the reservoir and just add new break oil ..i have to bleed my breaks also?

Will a vacuum bleed pull air out of a master cylinder?

Thank you very much, you were very helpful.

Very nice video. That was the cleanest used brake fluid I've ever seen😁😁😁

Hey Justin. Good to see you posting again. It's very interesting to see how the tie rod is installed.

This guy is handsome

Any progress with this car?

Sub

Good Job!! Nice info.

How do we know you succeeded, you didn't show the test drive.