Відео

Really "Living the Dream" with this video. The double exposure worked very well as a way to capture the memories and experience. A pleasure to watch.

close ups of the prints next time!

Beautiful negative and print

Wonderful video and super images. Having friends with like interests is a blessing.

When you have a guest on your videos, do they also take images? If so, do they have links?

Nicely done!

what is the black tray to develop 0x10 film? please, send me a link

"Here is the lens" .. and im left wondering what lens??

how would you do this on a black and white only exposure machine thing (sorry i’m new)

subscribed. Gonna teach my students this one.

Hello from Paris. I used the darkroom at the Center on my last visit to San Francisco. Have a great show!

Hi, what lens are you using on the 8x10? kind regards

how to measure the diameter of a pinhole so you can determine the f/number

love the sun flare in the first photo!

0:04 I thought it was your tree-pinhole

I just selenium toned a couple fiber prints. That stuff smells LOL. I want to try toning with Selenium and Sepia on the same print someday.

Hi there Mr Ryan, great tutorial out of contest what brand is your easels. Regards Cesare

Nice intro, Ryan. I assume you're using RC papers, from the short hypo clearing time you gave. I'll add a couple of comments. Different papers can respond very differently to selenium (and other toners). Dilution, toning speed, time/temp can all affect the result; even the printer developer can affect it, though two untoned prints developed in different developers might appear identical. For instance, Ilford Warmtone fiber base, in 1:19 selenium at about 68 F, shows only a slight change in the lower middle values until several minutes have passed. Fomatone, another warm-tone paper fiber paper, tones so fast at 1:19 that I use 1:80 (!) to have better control, and still rarely go beyond 2.5 minutes, unless a very full toning is desired. (If so, with the Ilford, I might use 1:9 or even a lower dilution to spend less time per print.) Most papers today are variable contrast, using a high-contrast and a low-contrast emulsion, which typically tone at different rates. This can produce a print with far more toning effect in the lower values. The result can be a print with two "colors", an effect the artist may or may not find desirable, depending on subject, extent, and tonal distribution.

love it thank you!

Bravo. Excellent explanation (plus, beautiful image!).

Congratulations on your upcoming exhibition. Are you really using platinum as your metal in the sensitizer, the warmth of the resulting print makes me think you are using palladium, not platinum?

I was pretty confused when you said you were going by stops here, since a stop would be twice as long. I think what you're actually doing is rounded off half stops. So it would be (2^2)=4, (2^2.5)=5.6, (2^3)=8, (2^3.5)=11.3, (2^4)=16, (2^4.5)=22.6 for exact half stops, and then you've rounded these off.

Lovely work and well deserved of an exhibition. I would be interested to see how you make your digital negative. What process do you use for obtaining the ink colour/density before you print it on the pictorico paper? Many thanks for your content.

I understand the intention and the procedure but I think there is an error in the time calculations, increments of one step with a base exposure of 4 seconds would be 8, 16, 32, 64, 128...

Very nice work. Photographic exposure is logarithmic, not linear. Note that the shutter speeds go in approximate doubling and the /f stops are powers of the square root of two. Rather that 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 minutes, you could use 1, 1:25, 2, 2:49, 4, 5:39 and 8. This will give a more uniform gradation of density.

congratulations on a nice print , keep it up more kids need to be printing when shooting on film .. the print is the goal!!

Such a wonderfully informative video! Thank you for answering the question that I've had for a while about whither you can use the sun as your light source for platinum prints! Though I'm just beginning my journey in alternate photography I look forward to watching more of your informative videos.

Awesome!

Cool!!!!!!

Should have mentioned the other main accessory every long haired medium shooter needs: hair tie! Looks super fun. One day I hope to give it a go.

3:40 is beautiful and better without people, it brings some emptiness and Zen feeling

Nicely done!

Thank you for this, nicely done sir, nicely done...

J'apprécie particulièrement les portraits à la chambre photo 10 x 12 c m ou 4 x 5 i n c h, on fait des très beaux portraits sans aucune granulation, et avec une certaine netteté.et une certaine profondeur,et avec le papier photo traditionnel, que l'on peut développer jusqu'au bout, on aura un travail d'une très grande qualité.

Nicely done!

fascinating process ! great prints

really well made video 👍

Thanks so much for this demonstration, I do like this approach and will be trying it soon!

Ryan what did you just do! This is genius.

How wonderful having all that processing equipment!

She was perfect for this video i love her natural laugh very beautiful pictures

I liked the square where the bass player was.

I enjoyed watching your platinum process and print mounting. Cool stuff!

You just save me from cutting unimaginable amount of test stips and save's a lot of paper! thank you very much. Pawn Star's be like: Best I can do it's a sub.

Those are beautiful shots! The texture of the paper adds to the picture.

why do you set your aperture at F/45 ?

Basic, straight, I love it ! Thanks for recording the interaction with the person in front of the camera while taking the image - this is an important part!

thanks so much for posting the lecture and beautiful project! the inspirations you shared were also very fun!

Object brightness, aperture, time, makes exposure. The goal is to match exposure required by your film. With film you can't change iso on the same film. À film requires one level of exposure, your role is to play with light aperture and time to match this requirement.

That's a premiere 😅 I have to try this. Anyone knows how to match the Y and X axis in the darkroom?